I am seriously considering getting a D800 plus primes or a SH Hasselblad H4D -31, is anyone else in this position and fustrated by canon? . Especially seeing that no high 30+ MP / high DR camera is on the horizon this year.. and I have been waiting since last year when D800 was released!

I wont be ditching my 5D mkIII but running either system alongside for studio work, and continuing with canon for lifestyle and some faster paced work.

A further thing that has constantly annoyed me is the flash sync of 160, sometimes 200s with some triggers 250th on nikon would be marginly better plus more scope to hypersync than the 5D mkIII, or the 800th on hassy for balancing sunlight with location flash would be quite handy.

Also if the rumoured high MP camera is a 1 series body then I imagine it will be £5000 / $7000 + so thats the same price or more than a secondhand Hasselblad.

Now I'm no stranger to Hasselblads have shot with them extensively when doing my Digi & retouching work for other photographers, so know all the problems and tbh shooting a bit slower in the studio is not a problem and slower focusing too. I usually take time composing & lighting subject whether its models or still life. I seldom really rely on fps hit and hope technique.

But I am a stranger to Nikon! As far as I can see from reviews and samples the D800 DR is pretty much the same as H4D-31 but a tad less in the highlight roll off but better in the shadows.

The big thing for me is better DR and more MP to push in post, I do a lot of retouching and my canon files are getting broken up fairly quickly. Now before anyone says I know my techniques inside out to ensure the best possible result so its not about cropping or pulling out a under exposed image , its about having the best start point to work from.

Or there is plan C .. wait on canon to produce the sensor and camera that they should of done by now and complete my set primes in the meantime.

It does seem like canon are making better quality lenses first which is a good thing, but without knowing for sure we are left in the dark. If I had some specs confirmed by canon I could maybe wait or reassuringly buy a D800 in the meantime hopefully knowing that Canon will release a spectacular camera within the next year, that get me buying some of the new lens in anticipation..

But if I go for a D800 and it is actually a really good all round camera .. then good by canon.

I have the 17-40 f4L, the 24-70 f2.8L and 70-200 f2.8L IS II
Used on both the 7d and 5d mark II.

Will the 85mm f/1.8 give me noticeably better bokeh or any sharper images because it is a prime lens? I cannot afford another L lens at the moment.

Thanks!

http://digicame-info.com/2013/03/eos-kiss-x7i.html/

Anybody want to get upset?
..or start to despair?

I seem to have an issue with my EF 100-400mm lens. I just took it out to shoot Double-Crested Cormorants and some other birds the other day, first time since early February. The last time I used the lens, it was for pretty close up shots of smaller birds, such as Juncos and Chickadees, in my yard. When it came to the Chickadees, I did not see anything wrong at first with the shots. Yesterday, while photographing the Cormorants, it seemed the 7D AF locked on pretty well, even though the subjects were only filling 1/4 to 1/3 of the frame most of the time. I spent a few hours photographing, and went home with a couple CF cards full of photos. When I got home, it seemed as though 100% of the shots were soft and/or slightly out of focus. I've been using this lens with it's current AFMA setting for months, and it seemed to work at that setting before. To my knowledge, the lens has been sitting on a tripod, attached to my camera, in the same place since the middle of February...it hasn't been dropped or anything like that.

So far, out of quite a number of photos, I have yet to see one that I would call sharp or properly focused. Most of the shots seem to have the focal plane a few inches behind the subject, even though the 7D in AI Servo appeared to have locked onto the subject and tracked it while I held the AF button down (I use rear-button AF as taught by Art Morris.) The Camera is a 7D, no teleconverters used, and it was mounted on a GT3532LS tripod with the Jobu Pro 2. IS was in Mode 2, and was always active and stabilized before any shots were taken (so I don't think the issue is blurring caused by mid-exposure actuation of the lens' stabilization element group.) In addition to the softness and OOF issue, ALL of the highlights, even in the center of the frame, seem to have a coma-like shape. All of them are "stretched" towards the upper right corner of the frame.


(Not the best photo of the bunch...it just has a lot of spot highlights that demonstrate the problem well. Small highlight on the end of the bill, another in its eye, several on its wing feathers. The whole image overall appears soft. Focal plane looks to be slightly behind the bird, despite the fact that I was using center-point only AF in with rear-button AF, and it was right on the bird (LR doesn't show AF points, sadly, and I a

Since getting home, I've run the lens through FoCal, as well as a manual AFMA procedure, and I keep ending up at the same setting: -5. I've tested a bunch of shots indoors on well-lit objects, including those with very fine details (I have a calendar with extremely fine lines). Things look pretty sharp, however a numeral six right at the center of the frame also appears to have a slight lower left to upper right "blur":

NOTE: Click images to view them full size, to actually see the 100% pixel peeping view.

(I used AF with -5 AFMA. The diagonal blur appears when using live view contrast-detect AF as well...pretty much identical.)


I am beginning to wonder if the Junco and Chickadee photos from a couple months ago might even have some problems. Based on this 100% crop of an unprocessed Chickadee photo, I now see that the same lower left to upper right blur and coma-like highlight shape. There also appears to be some soft fringing around the beak and the top of it's head. The feather detail does not look as sharp as I thought it was...certainly not as sharp as I would have expected for how close the subject was, and the fact that AI Servo AF seemed to instantly nail it right on the birds eye. I rarely look at my photos at 100% like this...I usually process and sharpen at the "Fit" setting in Lightroom. At 100%, it definitely appears as though shots from over a month ago have the same problem as the shots today. I am guessing the issue is just more pronounced with more distant subjects like the cormorants (which had to be at least 8-10 times farther away).


(Shot from a few feet away, almost at the MFD of the lens. IS was off in most of these shots, with the camera mounted on a tripod with a gymbal head.)

It is also possible that I've just become spoiled. I have rented several of Canon's new Mark II telephoto and supertelephoto lenses. The sharpness on those is quite stunning, and certainly puts the piddly little old 100-400mm lens to shame in every way. However, that said, I do believe the funky coma-like highlight halos and stretching seem to just be wrong to me, and I do not remember seeing them in my photos from a number of months ago. Do I need to send in my lens for repair? If I do need to send it in, is it best to send the camera body with it for proper alignment, or will AFMA cover that? Thanks for any insight!

It was interesting to see what you did with my raw file of the snow leopards.
So here is another RAW file, but with nothing to fix I think.
Anyway some processing is always good
So be creative.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/en6qoibofq2ah3c/2012-08-14%20um%2016-19-44%20%281%29.CR2

Some lens have written on them the word MACRO to show the minimum focusing distance, why do they use the word "macro"? Or, at what minimum focusing distance a lens can be called macro?

Well here is a really bizarre question. I just opened a package from KEH - a used 50D body that I bought for a backup camera. Looks to be in excellent condition, except that it smells of cigarette smoke. The previous owner must have been a chain smoker (yuck). Is there any (camera safe) solution I can rub on the camera to remove the odor? Or if I just leave it out in the air for a while do you think it will go away?

Packing for a trip to Vegas and Grand Canyon. Just wondering if it's worth taking along the 70-200. Trying to keep down the weight. Any thought?

Taking: 5D3, 17-40 f/4, and 24-70 f/2.8.

Hello all there these two older lenses that popped back up on Craigslist again that I saw back in late January and February. Are the prices right for these lenses? I'm sure both are just great to have but is there a reason not to buy them? Thanks for your input.


300mm
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/pho/3687536373.html

500mm
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/pho/3687533176.html

Hi
I read the industry standard rating for the flash strength, but how does that actually translate into reach? How much further can you light a subject with a 600 over a 430?

thanks

Simon

Hi

How many flashes recycles can a speedlite life have?
Are the bulbs replacable?
And how long to batteries last (i did search for battery life before asking)

Thanks
Simon

• Hello all!
  
  I have an idea for a new website that I wanted to get some of your thoughts on.
  
  There are tons of awesome websites out there for camera reviews, but the problem (in my opinion) with most of these is that they only really present one review per site, and often times the reviewers aren't working photographers, or if they are they're not professionals. What I'd like to do is build a community-based site whereby a curated selection of professional photographers review SLRs in a real-world context.
  
  What if (as a reader) you could select reviews of the Canon 1D C based on the work of a professional photographer in a niche that you identify with:
  
  • professional cinematographers
  • professional wedding photographers
  • professional landscape photographers
  • professional commericial photographers
  • professional street photographers
  • professional underwater photographers
  • professional wildlife photographers
  • professional model photographers
  • professional war photographers
  
  In addition to professional reviews, the site could focus on:
  
  • professional photographs of the cameras
  • professional photographs with the cameras
  • profile pages for photographers. links to the photographers site, social media etc.
  • reviews for photographers, by professional photographers
  • blog on all things photography. up-to-date news on pro SLRs only
  • featured: photographer of the month
  • forums for pro SLRs and photography in general
  
  The site could look like this: http://organicthemes.com/demo/magazine/
  The domain could look like this: proSLRs.com
  The reviews could look something like this: http://grahamclarkphoto.com/review-canon-eos-6d/
  
  
  The photographers could look like this:
  
• http://joanteasdale.com/Artist.asp?ArtistID=33760&Akey=8V568XFL
• http://www.michaelandersongallery.com/gallery/favorites/
• http://rudidundas.com/
• http://www.marcellpuzsar.com/
• http://grahamclarkphoto.com/

Any thoughts, or people interested? I already have a number of professional photographers, designers and SEO pros who are interested in moving forward with it but I wanted to get a sense from everyone here! : )

Graham

Quick question for those of you who have used Kenko extension tubes...

Does DPP pick up the 12mm extension tube as if it were a Canon tube for the purposes of DLO and Lens aberration correction?

I can understand if it doesn't for the 20mm and 36mm Kenkos, as they are for lengths that have no Canon equivalent.

Thanks - trying to decide whether I go with Kenkos or Canon.

Longtime lurker and in need of some feedback on this image I happened to capture today. I was driving down a residential street to see a Red Tail Hawk dive and nail a grey squirrel. I make a quick u-turn on this quiet street and parked to observe this magnificent bird begin to dismantle an unsuspecting squirrel.
Captured with a 7d, 40mm, ISO100, f/5, and 1/160

In retrospect I should have opened the aperture to make the brown bird pop from the brown background

interesting approach :

http://nikonrumors.com/2013/03/17/nikon-repair-center-saves-a-lens-damaged-by-salt-water-by-boiling-it.aspx/

Cheers!

So, this might be me being stupid, and may be in the wrong part of the site (didn't know where to put it)
I've recently gone up to the 5dMkIII but had the same issues with the 7D and the 450D.
I can't get the colour the way that is pleasing to me. I love shooting black and white, and the more contrast, the better. I also like punchy colours, but can never get skin tones to look just right to me. I know the trick about lifting red, orange and yellow luminance to stop it crunching the skin tones while bumping contrast.

Attached are two versions of the same image, this is the most to my liking I can get the colour. I almost like the black and white, apart from some composition things.

Can anyone help me here please? I can see other people's work where the skin tones appear perfect. Do I need a better diffuser? Or is the image fine?
Many thanks for any replies
Elliot

did you guys saw the EOS-b announced in Best buy's website? Here is a screen capture, and sorry about the poll, since its my first post I had no idea what was that about so I just added that randomly.

Is this a good price for this lens without a scratch on it?

In the very near future I may be buying a number of things, namely a 5Dmk3, 16-35L, 100L and 135L, along with a few other accessories. I already own a 60D, 17-85 and 85 1.8.

I'm also considering whether to get a wide/normal prime with all that, namely the 35L or the 50L, though this is where I can't make up my mind. I'd like your input and opinions and experiences on said lenses and which you think I should get! I'm set on the other lenses, so I'm not needing any advice on those - they're just for reference so you know what else it'll be amongst.

Below are my thoughts, both pros and cons on each lens, along with a few other points of consideration.

35L
Pros

• I prefer a mid-wide walkabout lens to 50mm
• Slightly cheaper than the 50
• Led to believe it has slightly better IQ than the 50?
• Great build quality, metally and solid.

Cons

• Not weather sealed
• Already have the 35 length with the 16-35

50L
Pros

• A third of a stop faster
• Weather sealed
• Doubles as a good portrait length on my second (crop) body
• Fills a gap in the focal range not yet covered

Cons

• Infamous focus niggles
• Could just get the 50 1.4?

I have both at work and have tried them both out a fair bit and like them both very much, however I'm still torn between the two. For some reason I feel slightly drawn to the 35 over the 50, but only by a hairs width. If the 35 had weather sealing, I'd probably go with it, as I always seem to find myself in the rain and I'd like to know that I don't need to worry.

Other things to consider are I'd really like to do some astrophotography with one of them - one of the reasons I'm not going with the 24 1.4 as it has bad coma wide open - how do these lenses perform for star shooting? Coma? Overall sharpness? Does the extra third-stop of light make much difference? Would the wider FOV be more appropriate?

I'd really only be able to afford one of them, however I may be able to stretch to get the 35 and the 50 1.4 instead? I know it's a great lens though the main drawback for me over the 1.2 is the weather sealing - more important than a wider aperture. Also should I think about the Sigma 35 1.4 perhaps?

Please leave your thoughts and opinions - 35L, 50L or alternatives?

This photo I took last week in cologne zoo, but the flash and the windows of the snow leopard compound were a really bad combo. So how would you fix this photo, below you find a link to the RAW file. https://www.dropbox.com/s/ghw2296zm6watcq/2013-03-13%20um%2012-26-45.CR2

I will post my own work later on.

Which lens do you like best between the two (the 70-200 does not have IS but is an L lens, etc) or neither...looking to shoot outdoor portraits and candids of families and children, and some landscape photography, etc. I really appreciate your response -- I am slowly adding to my lenses (I currently own an 85mm 1.8 prime lens and a 50mm 1.8 prime lens for my Mark iii -- I have other lenses but they are all EF-S lenses so they do not work with my full frame Canon -- Thank you so much, Heidi

I want to add a zoom lens to my lenses for my 5d Mark iii - mainly for family portraits, candids, and occasional landscape photography. I currently have 50mm 1.8 and 85mm 1.8 lenses -- I am considering the 70-200mm f/4L (that does not have IS but is an L-lens) or the 70-300 f/4-5.6 USM IS (that has IS but is not an L-lens) -- any suggestions or other lenses you would recommend would be great appreciated. I am adding equipment as I expand my business and would really like to add a zoom lens as I currently have only primes.