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Inconsistent firing of Strato rcvr by my Odin on a shoot

I had a little 270 speedlite tucked in the area above a stove for an interior shot of a kitchen. Needed a kick light down on the stove surface. (The articulation of that little head/reflector is a added benefit.) There was some Gorilla tape holding it and the Strato Multi receiver in a corner. Wel, maybe a lot of tape... enough to cover the assemblage. Odin controller was on the top of the camera not far away. Sometimes the 270 would not go off. Sometimes it seemed like it lagged a part of a second behind the flash of the units that had Odin receivers. (I agree that this is hard to judge just by eye...) There are frames with no 270-included flash. Tape the culprit? There's no metal in the tape to act as a shield.

I bought one Strato to try out with the Odins because I usually set up this kind of work with plain old manual settings. I have Vivitars in addition to some Canon speedlites, and these Vivitars are always going to be manual. But I discovered that the Strato will not fire any of the Vivitars. I wrote Phottix to ask why but their first answer shows they are not yet sure what I am asking. I know Stratos are supposed to co-exist with Odins in a complex lighting setup but I wonder if I made a mistake? I need to trigger a Norman studio flash in 9 days for a shoot! (the pack needs a solder connection fixed so have not been able to test it yet.)

Thoughts?

jonathan7007

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Mark III manual mode-changing ISO speed, its not changing the exposure meter bar

Hey guys, I am hoping to get a little help

On this new 5D Mark III, how in the heck do you adjust the ISO in Manual so that it will adjust the exposure bar? When I click the ISO button, mine is just locked in the middle. So I have to adjust ISO seperately, Depress the shutter half way, see metering is still dark, push ISO button, adjust it a little more, depress shutter again now see where the metering is now... As in when I change the ISO speed, its not changing the exposure metering bar.

I had no issue with this on Mark II, so I am not sure what I am doing wrong, or what setting needs changed. Any insight?

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Error 30 Experiences? Have you seen this?

Just bought a second-hand (but one owner) 1DsMk3 and after arrival I tried is with a bunch of my lenses and pixel-peeped to see how it differed from my 5Dmk3. Liked the image at low ISO, which is exactly why I bought it. Oh, and for its great build quality and the long-life shutter.

I have had no other 1-series camera and the shutter on this body sounds sweet to my ears: more mechanical, more authoritative.

But yesterday on a real estate shoot with my 17mm TSE, tethered, I started getting these Error 30 messages on the screen. I believe it told me turn off and on again, too. The body never stopped working, and responded to the power cycle. Shooting tethered I was bringing up the images in Windows Explorer and right clicking to ask them open in ACR... just to check focus and the histogram. But I don't know how tethered operation might have caused -- or highlighted -- whatever is the root cause of the error.

Canon tells me this error is a loose bag of possible shutter issues. I was using an Odin trigger in the shoe but the VA-center tech person said that wasn't likely to be the cause. Ditto tethering, although he asked if I had been in and out of LiveView, which of course I had! I am so bummed. I know these things happen but I *thought* I had purchased this at a reasonable cost and from an enthusiast, not a pro, which meant lower actuation count. No signs of hard use on the body. I believe my cost just went up by $400 (a guess, I admit)

Important shoot on the 16th and despite my CPS fast turn inside the repair operation at Irvine I would have to spend about $100 to go with the fastest shipping service available, and here in rural Hawaii, often, "next day" is not next day either going or coming.

So, given that I MUST have a second body at this important shoot (and that it will be tethered photography of regular folks -- with people and groups stepping in one after the other, I am tempted to wait to send it, explore the body's reaction to all my TSE lenses, try tethered again, to see if there is any recurrence... and still, I guess send it in and pay for whatever repair is necessary at that point. Grrr.

jonathan7007

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Bad 24-70mm?

After reading and watching a LOT of reviews, I finally purchased the 24-70mm f/2.8 II. It's my 2nd red ring. My first one was the 17-40mm f/4. I'm not sure why, but neither the zoom nor the focus feels as smooth as the 17-40mm. I realize the 17-40mm doesn't have as much glass in it, but the 24-70mm feels and sounds like there's some abrasion. The zoom feels tighter, which I guess if from the extra glass. It still sounds odd, though. The focus feels looser than the buttery smooth 17-40mm. Did I get a bad copy? Should I exchange it for another?

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Film negative/positive scan/viewing advice needed

So, as I begin my journey into film, I'm realizing instead of paying to scan or print every roll (120 film mostly, 6x7), that being able to view the negative/slides either at pick (and then give them to scan), or at home and then bring back to get scanned is probably the more cost effective way. That and I'm considering getting a scanner, but that probably won't happen as I expect I'll be paying $250+ on a quality home scanner. I've been eyeing the V600 which has some good reviews, and that's about $190 at B&H.

However, just looking around on B&H, I'm seeing that a lightbox & loupe will probably cost around $200 or more. So, what would ya'll recommend? Just go ahead and wait until I get paid this month and then go buy a quality scanner like the V600? Should I save for a couple of months and jump to the V700? I'm sure I'm serious about film, however the quantities I'll be doing will be varying.

As a side note, I would like to take it back home to scan some family negatives/photos. Not likely all of them, but at least some. If it (and the software included or other recommended software) can help with that, bonus awesomeness.

EDITS: Fixed V600 price

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Difference between US/Japanese 7D?

Sorry if I'm in the wrong section, but its the closet I can relate to this topic. Anyways, I recently just bought a Canon 7D (from the deals section of this site) and received the package today. The first thing I realized was that the box was in English/Japanese. Being that this camera must of came from Japan, I'd like to know are there any differences whatsoever? I'm not bashing on anything imported, especially Japan, just wanted to know am I losing something because of the deal I got? Even the smallest difference can be posted please, I dont mind paying an extra $200 for the American.

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Keep or sell my 7D

Currently I have 2 bodies, a 5D MkII and a 7D. My lenses are 16-35 2.8L II, 24-70 2.8L and a 70-200 2.8L IS. I also have a 1.4 and the 2XII Canon extenders. I'm looking to pick up a used 300mm 2.8 non IS. I'm thinking of selling the 7D while it's still worth a bit of money before the MkII is released and the price falls to help fund the purchase. The 7D stays in the bag and I use the 5D MkII virtually all the time. Should I keep the 7D? It is nice to have a second body but not if it just sits it the bag.

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EF-S 17-85mm f/4-5.6 Upgrade?

Hello all,

I'm a "serious" amateur with not much money. :)

I'm starting to branch out into some easy working gigs (family portraits, pet photos, baby photos), nothing too pro, mostly just a taste to see if it's something I want to dive into more seriously (I THINK I'd really love to do wedding photography, but that's a little beyond my skill at the moment).

I have a 650D/T4i, a VAST upgrade to the 1000D/XS I shot for years with. Since it basically has the same sensor as the 7D it takes what I consider to be very nice pictures.

I long ago upgraded from the kit 18-55mm to the 18-135mm. I found the difference dramatic. My T4i came with the kit 18-135mm STM lens, which is rated even better then the original 18-135mm IS, but frankly image quality wise I don't see a vast difference (it is shaper at wider apertures, but not by a huge amount).

That said, the 18-135mm STM is still a kit lens, and while it is an amazing single lens solution for travel, I do wonder if it's "good enough" for outdoors portait type shoots, especially if people starting paying me money.

So, with all that said, I've looked into things and ALOT of people recommend that a good "next step" is the EF-S 17-85mm f/4-5.6. It's not L glass obviously, but it is supposedly quite an upgrade from kit glass.

Would I notice much of a difference? I know there are other a couple other common options, but they are all quite a bit more expensive:

EF-S 15-85 f/3.5-5.6
EF-S 17-55 f/2.8

The 15-85mm is about $200 more then the 17-85.
The 17-55mm is WAY more, obvious since it's much faster, constant aperture. Alot of people say that lens is a L without the L designation.

According to DXOMARK there isn't much difference between my 18-135 and the 17-85 or 15-85. But alot of people say that DXOMARK isn't very close to real life. The 17-55 DOES score much better, but it's out of my price range, plus I don't like being limited to 55mm on the long end.

So, any advice? Is the 17-85 worth the upgrade? Should I stick with my 18-135 and save up for better glass?

Thanks for any advice!

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Nepal Expedition

Hey everyone! Another first time poster here but I really value everyone's thoughts and opinions so I thought i'd ask you helpful people for some advice!

At the end of March I will be going to Nepal for 8 days as part of a college trip. For the first couple of days we will be doing volunteer work at local schools and organizing our own accommodation and such in the local markets and towns. We will then endure a 4 days trek in the Himalayan mountains and finally the last day or two will be visiting tourist attractions and doing a bit of R&R after our trek.

My main problem is deciding what camera body to take with me. I currently shoot with my 5D mark II + 35L however i'm super paranoid about it getting damaged somehow on the trek or under light rain in Nepal. Alternatively, I used to shoot with a 450D and i'm considering taking that instead as i'd be less phased if anything were to happen to it, but for me it definitely doesn't provide the quality of photo that I really want, but I don't want my 5D getting wrecked.

As well as these cameras, I am also working in collaboration with a local camera company here in Dubai who are sponsoring me and are willing to provide a Fuji XE-1 along with a 18-55 f/2.8-4 to shoot with during the duration of my trip. Whilst this is a super set up cause it's light and compact, I still haven't been able to try it out and have no knowledge as to whether it is at the same standard as my 5D. Also, another issue i have with it is i usually shoot between f/1.4 and f/2 on FF for small DOF and i've gotten so used to that that when I receive the Fuji i'm not sure i'll be able to manage! Along with this, i've heard the battery life on the X-E1 is rather poor, squeezing out 350 shots at most per charge which is unfortunate considering i don't want to be spending MORE money on spare batteries whereas i have some spare for my 5D already.

Now by all accounts, I am not going on this trip to solely take photos and I am definitely not a professional, I just think it would be nice to get some unusual photos while i'm out there. I've never really shot many landscapes so that will be completely alien to me but I do want to get some snaps of the mountains and scenery whilst I want something to document my charity work and to use as a general walk around camera, capable of taking some shots in low light when needed.

So baaasically, my question is, do I take my 5D, the Fuji XE-1, or both to Nepal?

How Would You Edit This Landscape Photo?

This is a photo I took at Zabriskie Point in Death Valley right before sunrise this past November. The link below is to download the RAW file from my Dropbox account. It's not an amazing picture, but I am curious to see different landscape editing techniques applied to this photo. Feel free to download the file and edit the picture as you normally would. Also, it would be great if you could post what program(s) and techniques you use to achieve the final result.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/b08zlbgbwfelyns/_MG_0452-1.cr2

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need advise on what speedlite?

Hi, i am a former canon DSLR Shooter that has had experience with the canon 580ex when I was shooting weddings in 2000's. A little over two + years ago i sold all my canon gear and switched over to M4/3. to make a long story short almost a month ago i switched back to using a DSLR. I purchased the 6d with a few lenses funded by selling of all my M4/3 gear.

I purchased the canon 270exii just as a simple flash that could be bounced while taking photos indoors of my kids and other things. For what it cost and what it's worth, it's fine for that. I now want to invest in a better speedlite. that's where your help comes in. Let me give you an idea of what I would like to achieve. I really want to be able to use the flash off of the camera on a stand of some sort, i just think it creates a visually better looking photo. again this will mostly be used of taking photos indoors. I also want to be able to use the flash with a soft box. I would like TTL functionality. I also want to take better portraits of my kids. Maybe get a backdrop and add another flash down the road etc...

So, i was looking at the canon 600ex-rt and the Canon ST-E3-RT Speedlite Transmitter, yes i know a 900.00 investment is a lot but is it worth it for what i want to do. Or for now should i just look at the 430exii or the 580exii and get a pocket wizard or some other radio transmitter.

or am i better off getting some sort of studio strobe and can add on to it as needed.

Please feel free to comment, make suggestions and help me in any way


thanks for your help,
anthony

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EF or EF-S for 7D/70D

I want to start upgrading my lens kit, so that one day when I can afford a 5D Mark III (a few years from now) all I will need to do is get the body. In the meantime I want to drop my EF-S kit lens for a quality replacement.

Would the Canon 17-40mm f/4 L EF be a good option for replacing a 18-55 EF-S kit lens for a crop body? When I eventually go full frame I will want a wide lens, so I thought this one may serve that purpose while also being a good replacement for the kit lens on a crop body.

I was going to upgrade my Rebel XT to a 7D about a week ago, but then the rumors of the 70D announcement started coming. So for now I'm holding off and waiting to see what this new camera will entail by the end of the month before deciding which camera body to get.

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Canon 7D or ..

Hello Everyone,

I am planning to buy a Canon 7D. I currently own a 3 year old 500D and want to upgrade now. My main area of interest is Bird Photography. I had nearly finalized on going ahead with 7D until I came across a discussion where everyone is not really happy with 7D. Now I am confused. Is it good to wait till 21st March for Canon announcements? are there any better suggestion other than 7D? Can 60D be good option or a 6D?

I am not full time Photographer. It started as a hobby in college days and now its just weekends.

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DPReview: Canon EF 24-70 f/2.8L II Review

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<strong>From DPReview</strong>

The folks at DPReview have completed their extensive review of the pretty great <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/843008-USA/Canon_5175B002_EF_24_70mm_f_2_8L_II.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">Canon EF 24-70 f/2.8L II</a>. Did they like it? It seems so, although the usual price complaint comes up again.</p>
<p><strong>Says DPR..

</strong><em>“The answer, as usual, isn’t necessarily clear-cut, and depends on each individual photographers’ needs and preferences. Compared to the previous version, it offers weathersealing and a welcome reduction in weight. <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/596257-REG/Sigma_571101_24_70mm_f_2_8_IF_EX.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">The Sigma</a> can’t match it optically, especially on full frame, but is so much cheaper that many users may well be willing to overlook this, particularly if they use APS-C cameras. <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/845339-REG/Tamron_SP_24_70mm_f_2_8_DI.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">The Tamron</a> looks like a very worthy competitor, offering impressive image quality, image stabilisation and weathersealing all in one package, and we aim to assess it fully in the near future. But quite simply the Canon offers such exceptionally good optics that, if you’re after the very best, there’s simply no other choice.”</em><strong>

</strong></p>
<p><strong><a href="http://www.dpreview.com/lensreviews/canon-ef-24-70mm-f-2-8l-ii-usm" target="_blank">Read the full review</a> | <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/843008-USA/Canon_5175B002_EF_24_70mm_f_2_8L_II.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">Canon EF 24-70 f/2.8L II $2049</a> (add to cart)</strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

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Canon EOS 6D Firmware by June? [CR1]

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<strong>Improvements coming?</strong>

We’re told that a firmware update for the EOS 6D will be coming in the May/June timeframe if things go to plan.</p>
<p>The biggest addition to the camera will be f/8 autofocus at the center point. The AI servo indicator <em>may</em> also be added.</p>
<p>The firmware will also include other bug fixes and tweaks.</p>
<p><strong><em><a href="http://www.adorama.com/ICA6D.html?kbid=64393" target="_blank">Canon EOS 6D body at Adorama $1789</a> (add to cart)</em></strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

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Canon EOS 7D Mark II Information [CR1]

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<strong>*UPDATE 2*</strong>


The battery does help a camera body autofocus an EF lens faster.</p>
<p>From Chuck Westfall… <em>“In addition, the EOS-1D X achieves a higher lens motor drive speed with select L-series USM telephoto lenses than the 5D Mark III because of the 1D X’s more powerful battery pack.”</em> [<a href="http://www.arihazeghiphotography.com/AH_CW_interview/" target="_blank">source</a>]</p>
<p><em>Thanks Edwin</em></p>
<p><strong>*</strong><strong>UPDATE*</strong></p>
<p><em id="__mceDel">Some discussion has come up about AF performance being affected by battery voltage. The LP-E4 style batter in the 1D series is 11.1 volts, while the LP-E6 is 7.2 volts. I do not have the technical papers of the relationship between voltage and AF performance on for EF lenses. If such an article exists, I would love to see it. We were passing on information that came to us from a new source.</em></p>
<p><strong>What to expect?</strong>

We’ve received some interesting information about the development of the EOS 7D Mark II.</p>
<p>We’re told at least one variation of the camera being developed has an integrated grip, really making it a “Baby EOS-1D X”. We’re told that the larger battery seen in the EOS-1D X is part of the reason it will autofocus bigger lenses better than a camera with say an LP-E6. If this is going to be targeted at sports and wildlife photographers, the bigger battery makes a lot of sense. I would expect the camera to be somewhat smaller, as the mirrorbox and prism wouldn’t need to be as large. It’s sounding like Canon is really going to test how much people are willing to spend on an APS-C body.</p>
<p>It is a 2013 camera by all indications, most likely the late summer/early fall.</p>
<p>No other specifications were mentioned.</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

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Initial impression after using 6D... now 2 weeks later

Well it came yesterday and as a whole "wow" what a step up from a rebel. The feel, the size is just about perfect.

I only had the cash for the body but plan on getting glass in the next few months here. With that being said I was using the Nifty Fifty.

Even with all lights on my 450D couldn't take a picture worth keeping without the hotshoe flash. THIS CAN!!! I was stunned with auto ISO, as it was only Day 1 I left it in jpg and then AV and TV mostly.

Focus, was slow at times and seemed to search, I'm not sure if this was a lens or body issue or maybe even user. I know this isn't a sports or action cam but its forced into that roll as I have a 1.5 year old running around.

so the jury is till out on the focus... not sure if I was expecting more based on the -3EV rating.

WIFI was very cool, didn't really take any pics with it, but did transfer images straight to my iPhone 5 and post on Facebook or text them out to family. Really easy.

Overall coming from the 450D and only fooling around for a few hours still learning this camera, I am impressed!! I will try to get user pictures up in the near future.

(i think I might also see how I can do AFMA at home)

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So I decided to buy a Sigma zoom.

After some time and consideration, I decided to buy a Sigma 120-400 f/4.5-5.6 OS zoom lens, to use with my crop camera (for now). I apologize if this mini-review is too long...it might help if I tell you I compare this lens with other Canon L lenses I have tried, and own. I did consider buying the 150-500 Sigma instead, but ultimately I wanted to try this one more.

I had originally considered renting a Sigma zoom. But the only one for rent, is the 50-500 (besides the big 120-300 f/2.8 OS...I'm waiting on the new "art" version with the dual fluorite elements, before renting that one)...and I decided I could do without 500mm...especially considering the reviews that said above 400mm, that lens wasn't very sharp. Funny how that kind of thing can show up in their other zooms...

This is the third Sigma lens I have bought. (I also owned a Sigma camera, and loved it, despite its quirks.) The first Sigma lens was in early 2009, a 17-70 (non-OS, first introduced possibly somewhere around 2004-06?). It was incredibly sharp with brilliant color and contrast. However, it refused to ever AF correctly no matter what. I finally sold it last year (for nearly what I paid for it new), but did hate to see it go anyway. One of my images done with it, got published in Outdoor Photographer last year.

My second Sigma lens purchase, was in Dec 2012; a 17-50 f/2.8 OS. This one has more barrel distortion than the 17-70 at the wide end, but overall, the color and contrast are similar, the bokeh is better, smoother, and obviously more pronounced/artistic...the sharpness is similar...the CA is low, and thus similar...and the AF accuracy is basically dead on throughout the zoom range with no micro adjustment necessary! The OS is a true 4 stops, and works perfectly. I think a semi-pro or even full-pro event shooter or portrait photog, could churn out spectacular work with it. If I decide to sell this lens in the future, I will hate to see it go. They do hold their value very well on the used market (another deciding factor at purchase). The reviews all seem to be correct...it's better than the Tamron 17-50 f/2.8. It also seems to make the much loved but over-hyped Canon 17-55 f/2.8 IS, seem to also be over-priced. If it is any better than this Sigma, it's not worth paying the $300 premium for a lens that still can't be used on full frame bodies. Ok, getting off my soapbox on that one, haha!

But back to the new lens...the third Sigma I have ever bought. I have to say, the build quality is very nearly Canon "L" quality. The fit and feel of the lens hood, the feel of the lens body, the feel of the focus and zoom rings...the feel of the tightness of the barrel as it telescopes outward...the printed letters...it all looks and feels like it might cost more than it does. And the lens ring/tripod mount/grip...well holy ****, that thing is very close to the equal of the very best Canon L supertelephoto's !!! I absolutely love it! Fits perfectly in the hand for carrying upside down or any angle, with the perfect distance from the lens body, and the perfect molded finger indentions. This lens was introduced in either 2007 or 2008, I believe. Sigma really are turning into a terrific lens and camera company, in my opinion (optical imperfections of the lens aside).

It arrived March 4. After spending only about 2 hours shooting with it so far (and even longer perusing and tweaking the files on computer)...It has less contrast than I thought it would. (I already knew it had less than the Canon zoom, thanks to the reviews and folks on this forum), but it's definitely still usable with post editing...and has a nice color balance. It has quite a bit more contrast below 200mm, than above, so that's at least a plus. It's softer than the Canon 100-400...yes...but not by a lot (however, it possibly is noticably softer than the Canon all the way at 400mm...but up to about 340mm it's still usable for very mild cropping). Sharpening in ACR seems to be mostly from 1.4 to 2.3 pixel radius. Far from ideal, but still usable for a medium amount of cropping (definitely not for a large amount of cropping...where sharpening from about 1.3 down to .5 pixel radius is necessary. The Canon 400 f/5.6L prime...was good for that. But it doesn't have stabilization, isn't a zoom, and costs more). And keep in mind, this is via a crop camera. I attribute some of the softness to a lack of focus accuracy/consistency (which again, I was warned about on this forum...I'm very glad to have you all!). Overall, it's not remotely as sharp as my excellent copy of the Canon 70-200 f/4L (non IS...I didn't think it would be)...but for a zoom of that Canon's size and price range ($600)...nothing in the world can come close to that one anyway, in my opinion. Certainly the 24-105L does, but that's a wide zoom.

One aspect I like a lot, is the close focus ability. The impression I got was that only the Canon zoom could focus closely...but this one does too.

The biggest problem, and biggest enemy of sharpness with this Sigma lens, is the "OS". It blurs the image a bit when in use. It's a shame, because the stabilization actually works quite well, and is closer to 4 stops (rather than the negative reviews that say it's just 2; although I'm not convinced how well it works in panning mode...I need to experiment more with that). I got something recognizable at 1/10 second at 400mm on my monopod...no motion blur, just the OS fuzziness. However, even with a really fast shutter speed, that same OS fuzziness sets in, especially compared to the superb IS of the Canon 300 f/4 IS. Even though the Canon 300 f/4's stabilization is claimed as 2 stops...those 2 stops do not interfere with ultimate sharpness much at all (it was so sharp I never even switched it off...and I used it on the monopod about half the time...the other half hand-held).

So again, besides the difficulty getting very good sharpness above 340mm on my crop camera...The autofocus is indeed hit or miss (the main concern that might make me send the lens back and not try another one), at least on more distant objects (say more than 50 feet away). It's nothing like as accurate as the Canon 400 f/5.6 prime. Although even that Canon didn't AF very accurately in low light on very distant objects via my camera...say over 400 feet away...where again, the Sigma's problem seems to start about 50 to 80 feet away. Not a huge deal for small bird photography...more an issue for large distant birding...however, keep in mind I've not really used this lens in "good light" yet...so that is a big factor with focus accuracy as well. But as of now, I do attribute the problem either to the lens's lack of fine control over its focusing lens array by its AF motors...or to a lack of control of my camera's AF system over the lens's electronics and motors...or both. Or...for all I know, the way those elements are suspended on their rails, may be a factor. At distances near infinity, where literally you would move the focus ring a fraction of a millimeter to affect subtle changes to the plane of focus...focus accuracy can usually get very tricky (in my experience and opinion). I admit my camera's less-than-ideal AF sensor and system, are certainly in play here.

My AFMA seems to have no effect on this Sigma, even at plus or minus 20...which is extremely odd and disturbing, but I'll keep experimenting with it. I'm not even sure adjusting it would help anyway. It achieves what it thinks is focus more than fast enough for me...it doesn't seem to move slowly (like, for instance, the Canon 85mm f/1.2L's autofocus!). I admit I haven't tried it in servo mode yet, so that could suddenly slow things down. Anyway, as for the single shot mode, I'm guessing (from my memory) the Sigma is not a lot slower than the Canon 400 f/5.6 prime...but it's quite a bit slower than the 300 f/4's autofocus. (Again, my camera's ability was in play here, besides the faster aperture and more light from the f/4).

I also plan to try the Sigma on my cousin's 5D3. If his AF nails it a lot more often than mine (very hard to believe it would not)...I may just keep the Sigma 120-400...Because I feel it will work much better on a full frame camera with larger pixels and better AF, than on my crop camera. And I do want to buy a full frame sometime in the next 6 months to a year. The extra $500 to $800 I saved by buying this lens over the Canon zooms (or the Canon 300 f/4) (the Canon 100-400 is long overdue for a version 2 update anyway)...will help fund my purchase of a full frame camera. I think I'll wind up keeping my good old 50D, though. Used prices have fallen to around $450...but 4 years and many many shots later, I still don't really want to part with it. The only reason I might, is if the 7D falls to $750 or so, after its replacement comes out. That may not happen...so even at $950 or so, I think I will pass.

I will probably post more comments here as I discover for myself, more about this much maligned, often over-looked Sigma telephoto zoom.

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Plenty of posts on the 7D, how about the 70d

As much as I would love to have the new 7D II, if it does exist, more than likely it would be out of my price range, by a lot. I own a 40D and looking for an upgrade and think the 70D might fit the bill. I have yet to hear much on the expected upgrade to the 60D. Have I missed something? Is Canon planning to come out with anything replacing the 60D?

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Help deciding between BMCC and C100 for RE Listing Videos

I am currently using my 5D mkIII for all my video work, and I love it. But, I want better images. I love DSLRs for my weddings and they treat me well, but for things where I need only a single camera and have more time to figure out and setup my shots, I need something sharper, some more DR, and something more gradable. Wondering how much the RAW will benefit me from the BMCC vs the ease of use of the C100.

The issue is more with my Real Estate Listing video when I have many shots where I will be needing to shoot interiors but still want to see out the window to the ocean.

BMCC Pros:
RAW - More DR
2.5K - Downgrade to HD for a nicer HD image

C100 Pros
Fewer Components needed - Don't need extra battery pack etc..
Smaller file sizes and Cheaper Media
Much Better Ergonomics

I like everything about the C100 better than the BMCC, but, the BMCC can shoot raw. Will I notice the extra stop of DR when I am pulling down the highlights and bringing up the shadows for the high DR shots? (shooting interiors looking out a window)

I imagine the price of the two cameras would pretty much even out when you consider the cost of SSD drives, extra batteries for BMCC, and more hard drive space on the computer.

What do you think? worth the extra stop of DR and RAW Codec?

Printing services... Where do I go?

I'm interested in what advice the community can offer in terms of professional printing labs. I'm an advanced amateur/emerging pro and I'm trying to get some of my work printed in professional quality. I've already placed an order with Bay Photo. I got the same picture printed 3 different ways in order to compare finishes. I was impressed with the prices and services they offer, we'll see how the images turn out. Can anybody offer a suggestion for another lab to try?

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