Selling used gear UK

Had it with a popular auction site.

Noticed a known scammer had bid on a lens and managed to cancel before sending lens or losing money, feedback rating decimated however and the popular auction site staff won't rescind, despite being presented with lots of evidence of scamming.

I know from my days of retail that I can expect no more than 50% of sellable value as a trade in, so can I ask, has any UK user had any success selling gear elsewhere.

By UK I mean United Kingdom. Only answers from UK users, in the UK, who have sold stuff in the UK.

Thanks!

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Has anybody been using the 6D wireless function for live view to a tablet?

There's going to wide variation in latency/lag time depending on the brand and model of the tablet you're using -- the speed of the "network" depends on this as well as the camera. An acquaintance at Google suggests that there may be enough of a difference between the Apple and Android Canon apps to make a noticeable difference; as for hardware, the processor speed and its architecture as well as a list of things unknown to me, play their part. Any experts in the house?!

What (current) make & model are you using, and how's it doing? Can you compare across platforms?

If I owned a 6D my special interest would be in mounting a tablet from a base plate on a flexible arm in order to compose and focus manual-only lenses in live view. How large is your live view area within the Canon app?

For reference, Jeff at the "OK-Canon" center scared up what he called an "iPad3" and measured the live view picture at 5" x 4 in landscape, with no cropping he could spot, although the aspect ratio is a little off. He said some controls were in dead space to the left and right, though if you called up more these slopped onto the live view image about 1/2" on either side.

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200mm F2 IS OR 135mm F2

Hi All

I have the 5D mark III and 85mm f1.2 for taking portraits. I am so happy with it but it has slow focus and almost impossible to use for moving objects! so i dediced to but another lens which has fast AF, good for portraits and has amazing bokeh! so i found 2 lenses;

200mm F2 IS and 135mm F2

135 is very fast, not so heavy, good price (about 1000$), very good optic quality

200 has faster AF and plus IS, very heavy (about 2.5 kg), amazing optic quality and very expensive (about 6000$)

so do you think it is worth to spend that much money to go on 200mm? or do you think there is not increadible differences at photos of these two lenses that cost 6 times more expensive from 135?

thanks a lot

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Advice for shooting pictures of eagles

As a gift from some of my friends for my 40th birthday last year, I have gotten a stay at Dalen Vilmarkssenter in Norway (http://www.dalenvillmarkssenter.no/) where I am staying a night in February (we leave early in the morning with a snow mobile before daylight, settle in the hut with precut holes for lenses) hopefully get to take pictures of eagles, and then return after daylight.

I have gotten word that I will be able to borrow two bodies (1Dx and 1D iv, and a 400 F2.8L II) and I am thinking to bring my own 70-200 2.8L II, and a 2xIII TC.

Thus a question arises...

Are there other lenses you would bring to be safe? In addition, what aperture would you choose as a rule of thumb? I am thinking F 5.6 or 8 (to include the environment), and maybe 2.8 for portraits (where the background is not important)?

G.

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What nd filter density (combinations) do you use?

I'd like to buy a nd filter for nature and architecture shots, i.e. blurring water/clouds and removing people. The problem is that the 82mm filters (Tamron & Canon 24-70) at least from b+w are new releases and hilariously expensive in the mrc version, so I want to settle for one filter for the time being.

These are the choices available, at least from b+w:
Type 101 = 0.3 density +1 stop
Type 102 = 0.6 density +2 stop
Type 103 = 0.9 density +3 stop
Type 106 = 1.8 density +6 stop
Type 110 = 3.0 density +10 stop

  • Question 1:If you had to choose just one filter from your experiences, what type would it be? Is 3 stop enough for most blurring purposes and +6/+10 stop overkill? Would you advise not getting the +10 filter because later on it might be more convenient to stack +6 and +3?

  • Question 3:What are the real worlds drawbacks of using a polarizer as a 2-stop nd filter, and stacking it with a "real" nd filter?

  • Question 3:For my "always on" clear protection filters I have the mrc versions, but for an effect filter I'm really wondering if a non-multicoated b+w version or even a cheaper brand would make that much of a difference - I know there are already threads about this, but feel free to append your experience here, too :-)

Thanks for the input, I have read pages summarizing "what filter is supposed to be for what" but I'd rather get first-hand opinions of users here.

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Best carry set-up for 7D & 70-200 f/2.8L

A friend of mine owns a 7D - and he just bought his first "L" - the 70-200 f/2.8...

He asked me about strap/mounting options and that is not my area of expertise...

But I told him that I belong to an online Canon community that is awesomely helpful!

(hint: that's you guys...)

What are you using to carry this rig? Are you coming off the camera or using the tripod collar/foot?

Pics of your rig with detailed description as to specific products/connectors/ideas would be greatly appreciated! :)

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Canon Speedlite 600EX-RT Flash & PocketWizard

Hey guys, I'm looking for some advise and assistance...

I have a 5D2 & 5D3 with 1 580EX2 Flash. I'm using the flash with a set of 1 Mini TT1 & Flex TT5 on either body. I'm looking to purchase a new 600EX-RT however, I'm not sure if I just need to buy 1 Mini TT1 or both the Mini TT1 and Flex TT5 PW?

I know the 600EX is wireless, so, can I get away with having a PW Mini TT1 on my 5D3 to trigger the flash?

What in your opinion is the best way to do this set-up so I can trigger the flash off camera?

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Canon EOS-1D C Information

HTML:
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<p><strong>The EOS-1D C broken down a bit more.

</strong>A reader sent in some information about the EOS-1D C.</p>
<p><strong>1)</strong> A 25P firmware is coming next week.</p>
<p><strong>2)</strong> Canon is aware that high iso, high motion doesn’t mix well with 4K aggressively compressed to MJPEG. So my little experience of doing 4K framegrab is mixed. Quality is amazing in natural daylight portrait, but is less interesting in action high iso scene. They are aware of that and the “limit is the card writting speed” at 100Mb/s.</p>
<p>Interestingly the buffer looks to be well over 380 Mb/s and almost 3Gb large. So basically, the camera could run small sequence with lower compression in 4K or even in 8K for 3 to 6 second on the buffer, and then move that to the card when done a little bit ala phantom.</p>
<p>They say they will “investigate in this direction”.</p>
<p><strong>3)</strong> The twin Digic V in the 1Dc are slightly over clocked compared to the one in the 1Dx therefore this is why there is a need for better cooling.</p>
<p><strong>4)</strong> The C500 with its slightly lower pixel density and higher pixel size, is for now the king of the hill when it comes to high iso and low light when filming in 4K.</p>
<p><strong><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/855962-REG/Canon_EOS_1D_C_EOS_1D_C_4K_Cinema.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">Canon EOS-1D C at B&H Photo for $11,999</a></strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

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Where are you EOS 70D?

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<strong>The next EOS body


</strong>CP+ in Japan is coming up on January 31, 2013 and we haven’t heard a thing about Canon making a product announcement for the show.</p>
<p>That being said, there are lots of reports of 60D stocks being low. We’ve been told previously that a 70D will appear before a 7D replacement. It’s said to be an incremental upgrade from the 60D. Although, we’ve heard that wifi and gps will be added to the xxD line with the 70D.</p>
<p>The image sensor may remain at 18mp as Canon separates the 7D Mark II with a new, higher performing APS-C sensor. This makes a lot of sense as I think the APS-C segment needs a jolt and not more of the same.</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

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5DIII memory cards

Both cards are in the body. I'm shooting to the CF card. I turn off the camera extract the CF card and download to my computer. I put the card back in the body, turn the camera back on and start shooting again. I take out the CF card again after turning the camera off and download the pics but the card is empty. The pics are now on the SD card. What am I doing wrong?

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New 6D and M42 lenses capability.

Hello to those interested in shooting some of the classic (and sometimes great) M42 lenses in the modern world. I discovered the world of M42 while shooting a 60D body and of course crop bodies have no problem with mirror tolerance on almost any M42 lens. I knew when I switched to FF that some of my favorites would not work as well or at all. There are lists out there regarding the 5DC and to a lesser extend, the 5DII.

One of the things I was eager to test when my 6D arrived was the mirror tolerance on my M42 collection. Photos of the build show that it is narrower than the 5DII, and I wondered if that would create less tolerance for mirror fouling. Here is a list of my current M42 kit and my findings:

1) Anything 85mm+ is almost never a problem. There tends to be a fairly deep well in them and nothing fouls the mirror. I have an Image/Vivitar 135mm f/2.8 that is no problem, nor is my Super Takumar 150mm f/4
2) SMC Takumar 55mm f/1.8. Works fine at all focal lengths.
3) SMC Takumar 28mm f/3.5. Works fine at all focal lengths (and is a killer lens, BTW).
4) Super Takumar 35mm f/3.5 - still hangs close to infinity. Has been my worse offender on the 5DII and so have only used it on my 60D. Is marginally better on the 6D but still not really an option here.
5) Helios 44-2. I love this old lens, particularly for portraiture, and I was very happy to find that it now works almost to infinity focus without hanging the mirror, which is a big improvement over the 5DII. It is far more of an option through normal viewfinder focus than before.

All in all, I was pleasantly surprised to find that there seems to be a little more mirror clearance in the 6D, so those lenses that were on the edge with the 5DC or 5DII may be usable with the 6D. I have found that some M42 lenses just work better on a FF body. Some get shown up as being inferior, of course, but for some the narrower depth of field inherit in FF gives them more character. Happy shooting!

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7D Noise Reduction Tips

Reading this discussion http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=12519.0 and seeing some of the great examples of higher ISO on the 7D I thought I'd start a new thread and ask people to share their tips and tricks for getting lower noise at higher ISOs on the 7D.

I consider myself reasonably competent in Photoshop and Camera RAW, and as long as I keep the ISO around 400 (I'm an old film guy and that good old Tri-X film speed remains my 'standard') I have no problem enlarging prints to as much as 24 x 36 with no visible noise. But, once I go above 800 everything seems to fall apart.

I'm very impressed with some of the work shown in the other thread by those who shoot at higher ISOs and I'd like to know more about their post-processing techniques. Please share.

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Best Lightroom 4 Book ?

Hi Everyone,
I'm thinking of purchasing a book on Lightroom 4. Can anyone recommend a book? If so, why?
I'm contemplating one by Scott Kelby, Martin Evening or the official Adobe classroom in a book.

Looking for a book that will guide me from beginner to advanced, lots of pictures, easy to follow, and discusses integration with Photoshop.

thx

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Any Suggestions: UV Filter & VND Filters for EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 Lens

:)Hi,
I have a Canon 7d with a EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 Lens & hood. I'm currently looking at UV & VND filters for it.
UV Filter: I'm leaning towards the B+W 77MM XS-PRO UV MRC-NANO (link below) mainly due to quality & being thinner. Their "Nano" type filters are suppose to be easier to clean opposed to their regular MRC filters. Have you ever used this filter? If so, can the Canon lens hood be used? I've heard that the filter is slightly bigger in diameter.
https://www.schneideroptics.com/Ecommerce/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?CID=1554&IID=8160

VND Filter: As for the VND filter, I'm leaning towards the Tiffen. I realize that it's not the best, but better than average according to reviews. This filter along with a good VND comparison test performed by Doug Dugdale is on the following link;
http://www.tiffen.com/displayproduct.html?tablename=filters&itemnum=77VND

I would like to know your thoughts & suggestions with the aforementioned as well as others, along with your experiance in regards to these type of filters. As for the UV filter, I would keep it mounted at all times with the exception of using a vnd filter. I would prefer a UV filter that will work with my hood. Your help & expertise would be most appreciated. Thank you, Ray

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Camera insurance in Canada

Hi, I home based business in Canada and recently my home insurance pulled the plug on my home business add-on. I have clients in the states and apparently is too much liability and now because of that denial other insurance companies wont insure my business as an add-on to my home policy. This is pretty ridiculous, in the 14 years I have been operating, never had a claim.

Anyway, need to get insurance. I do travel outside north america for photography and video work so whatever plan i get needs to cover that travel. I did find one company that would do it but is $5000 a year which just seems crazy.

Does anyone have a recommendation?

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Buying Yongnuo Flash

Hi,

i decided to get a flash finally. Id prefer to get a wide aperture lens for low light shooting but thats just too pricy for me and i think a flash is handy anyway not only for low light situations.
Im gonna get the Yongnuo 468 II E-TTL version. Its kinda cheap and i think it will suit my style.
Question i have:

Ive seen many times ppl using really cheap cameras with an external flash. Even the Toy Story (tm) camera was used like that in a digitalrev video. How does it work? Just let the camera fire with flash and that will trigger the external flash? I got 1100D so there is a popup flash.
Ive seen in the video they redirect the (popup) flash so its like only the external flash lighting the scene up.

Does that work with the yongnuo im gonna get? Are there any special "flash redirection" tools? Or other option would be to get a flash transmitter right? Works with 468II ?

Im still wondering if there isnt some kind of "delay" between the first and 2nd (external) flash? Probably it gotta do with electronics working in microseconds but the shutter is just milliseconds?! I just dont understand really why its possible to use like _any_ camera (even cheap ass toystory camera) with an external flash :O

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Constant lighting vs strobe

I have become extremely happy with all of my lenses and bodies. I have been thinking for a while about investing in lighting. The only problem is I shoot a fair amount of video as well as pictures. I have heard of people using constant lighting for photographs but I am not sure of how good it is. I have seen these 1x1.5ft or so led light boards that are amazingly bright and have a color temp dial as well. Would that be the ticket?
Anyone have any experience or brands to recommend that will help get me started?

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Multiply, substract and add...

Taking the risk of launching a topic which has been treated before: Why do makers insist on using '35mm' (read: FF) focal length numbers for lenses which were specifically designed for use on their aps-c (read: crop) cameras?
For example: Canon's EF-S lenses are not supposed to be used on anything else but Canon's aps-c cameras, so why do we have to multiply EF-S xxmm by 1,6x to get to the 'real' focal length. Wouldn't it be easier to for example call the EF-S 60mm f/2.8 Macro an EF-S '97mm' f/2.8 Macro?
Even Olympus, who with their "digital from the ground up" 4/3 system, insists on having us multiply what ever lens of theirs we buy by 2 to get to the real/actual focal length... Who tackles this one for me? Thanks!!

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7D - How bad is it? Really?

I am thinking of upgrading to the current 7D (yes, tired of waiting for the new one) from a 30D, who have served me well. My limitations are in the high ISO areas, as 30D has a max of 1600 (which is BARELY usable for web). I usually try to keep it at 1000 or lower.

I do take pictures of indoor sports, so that is the reason for the upgrade. I also have an EF-S setup, so FF, though it would be awesome, is out of the question (and budget) for me atm.

I have seen the 7D getting bashed for bad high-ISO performance here, but I also realize that the standards on this forum is VERY high. Since I am not a professional, and probably never going to sell any of these pictures, my view of what is acceptable is somewhat lower. :)

That said, I do not want to invest a large sum of money into a camera that has bad IQ over ISO 1000, as I already own one of those...

So, the question is: How bad is the 7D on high ISO (1000-6400)? Really?

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Question regarding constant aperture lenses.

Hi all,

I have a question that is of no consequence and will not change in any way my photo skills ( it'll take more than that.. ) but nevertheless it occupies my mind...

First , to provide some background to my (mis)understanding , I understand a lenses aperture expressed by it's f-stop to be something like focal length / aperture . OK all good.

But , when a zoom is constant aperture , the focal length changes throughout the zoom range ... So how does the aperture change to maintain the F number ? , I.e after using a 70-200 2.8 ,@ 200mm does the aperture max size suddenly become a lot smaller when moving towards the 70mm end ??.

I hope i have made my question clear...

Hermichut.

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