A short award vt, shot on 7d & t3i

Creative Business Award

I mostly shoot video, but also do photography. I'm contemplating whether or not to sell my old Nikon AI-S prime lenses (35,50,85,105,135) as well as a few others, and put that money towards a good 24-70 and 70-200. I'd be sacrificing 1.4 for 2.8 but since I'm also looking to get the 5D Mark III, low light is greatly improved.

Just wondering if there are any reasons not to do this.

This weekend I hired the fantastic 24-70mm F2.8 L Mk ii lens after my trusty 24-105mm F4 lens finally died last week.

Anyway, this evening I got the chance to run a very bried test to compare it against my 70-200mm F2.8 L IS (Mk i) lens and my Sigma 50mm F1.4 lens, with everything shot at F2.8. I only checked centre sharpness in this test, but having used it to shoot a wedding yesterday I am mighty impressed.

Comparison images are on my blog and there is no question the 24-70mm Mk ii wins hands down! Now to find a means to purchase a copy of this lens... although I would happily do with the 135mm F2 first I think!

Link to write-up and comparison pictures:

http://www.bellissimaphoto.co.uk/photographers/canon-24-70mm-f2-8-l-mk-ii-review.html

I bought the canon 5d mark iii just under two months ago from best buy. I bought this camera for photography; however, I went to a concert last night and shot some film...when I got back and opened the file on my Mac, there were faint, big black lines that continuously move up the screen from bottom to top...? Any ideas on why this might be occurring. It sucks because I think I've breached the return day limit at best buy :-/

Thank you

I'm a teen with a canon t3i. For Christmas I'll be getting one of these for sure (if I'm lucky, both) but I don't know which one I want more! I'm interested in portraits.

Which is better? Lately I've been leaning more towards the 50mm f/1.4.

I currently own the 18-55, 55-250, and 50mm f/1.8. I don't use the kit lens anymore. I like the 55-250 for nature shots, but I can't take easily self portraits with it (I don't have models at the moment) and its pretty grainy. Plus, I don't like the bokeh. The 50mm f/1.8 is nice but it seems to get soft sometimes, and I know it's not made well.

Afternoon,

A friend has just dropped her camera round for me to look at. Her son shoved his finger into the eyepiece and now it is all Blurry. The camera will still focus and take pictures. I have tried adjusting the diopter which makes no difference, and if I look though it I can see a black line, like a frame in there. I suspect something has come lose ( I have taken the eye piece bit off ).

I was going to pull it apart to see i could fix it, however it is not massively obvious.

So, does anyone know how I get it apart? Or where ps he can take it in Cambridge to get it mended this week?

Many thanks

D

Hi,

I am going full frame. Soon. Nearly dove in on Cyber Monday. Now just stalking prices.
I may get 5D3, or I may go 6D. Either way, I obviously need a new "walking around lens". I will be keeping the T3i body but I will be selling the wonderful 17-55 f/2.8 zoom lens. I already have a 70-200 f/2.8 mk2. I also have the nifty firty 1.8.

I have never shot FF before. I am wondering if for the "normal lens" I should either:

1.) Get the 24-105 f/4 at the nice discount for package/kit deal, or
2.) Just get a prime (85mm?) (50mm?) and live with it, or
3.) Wait for 24-70 f/4?

I know I need a walk-around lens. I worry that only a prime or primes would be too hard to work?

I am also aware that you get a serious discount if you buy the lens with the camera, so the 24-105 looks great.

I could MAYBE do the 6D plus 24-70 f/2.8 mk2, though it would be a real stretch.

There is no way I could do more than the 24-105 if I bought the 5D3.

Should I go 6d instead? I know the advice is usually to go lenses first and then bodies.

ALSO, what about a cheap 50mm or 85mm? Supposedly Sigma is getting good at these for the price?

Sorry for so many questions.

I shoot:
Portraits of my elementary school kids, and
Some non-serious kid soccer, and
Candids of the family, and
misc., and
who knows?

Thanks!

Is this the solution?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yongnuo-YN-622C-Wireless-TTL-Flash-Trigger-Canon-2-Receivers-/251173637846?_trksid=p2047675.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D11%26meid%3D4199993506709166129%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D1005%26rk%3D5%26sd%3D120988902989%26
This trigger/transciever has its own AF beam, which is the same beefy robust pattern shown on the Yongnuo 565ex. At just $47.00 is this the solution to the 5D3's bad AF beam performance? Either buy 2 or 3 of these at $47 bucks each, or just buy one to use as a stand-alone AF beam for the 5D3??

BTW I did NOT come up with this; I took it from another of the threads on this subject. I am about to buy either a 5D3 or a 6D, and I would like to know what others think about this beefy AF beam as a possible solution/aid to AF on 5D3??

I have been scouting around for something to scan my negatives. I find that there are 5 mega pix scanners that are small and handy and then some flat bed scanners. Canon has a 9000F that I liked. However I read some folks say that the plastic attachment that holds the strips breaks off and canon does not carry spares for that! Has anybody used the 9000F? What is your experience?

Also what resolution do you scan at? Scanning at 4800 dpi would produce huge files I thought.

Thanks in advance.

a few weeks ago I tested a D600 against a 7D at a costco, and the pics came out really bad (skin tones were inaccurate, and it looked overexposed), but today tried it again and it was much better. At under $2k for a bundle thats a fantastic deal. Will Canon adjust prices before Christmas?

http://www.costco.com/Nikon-D600-Full-Frame-DSLR-Camera-2-Lens-Bundle.product.100012382.html

As we all know, to blur out a zoo fence you need a telephoto lens and large aperture. The problem sometimes is that when you are zoomed in, you only get part of the animal. But when you zoom back to get the whole animal, then the fence shows up. Here is one solution. I zoomed in (200mm wide open with a 70-200 2.8) and did a series of three vertical shots. Start at the head and work my way down, with manual focus and manual exposure. Then put them in the panorama builder in Photoshop Elements 9 and there you have it! (Just a few minor tweaks afterwards, including Tonal Contrast in Nik Color Efex 4).

Canon 5d2, 70-200 2.8L (non IS), great hornbill, Reid Park Zoo (Tucson, USA)

Hi all,

I'm relatively new to photography, and I've realised that to get the most out of the camera I really need to up the quality of the lens. With so many brand names and focal lengths to choose from, I could really do with some advice on what to buy please. I'll give you a bit of background on where I am at.

I've always shot with the stock 18-55mm but could never quite get the quality of image I'm happy with, and with not always having a tripod to hand I always seemed to struggle with motion blur. I haven't had chance to test the the new stock lens with the 650D that I've bought, but even with IS...I cant imagine it will make that much of a difference will it? Hence the reason for wanting a new lens.

I have begun to do a fair bit of research...and clearly the faster the lens the better....but with that comes a price. One lens that is raved about is the Canon EF 50mm f/1.8. For the price, and quality of image it can produce...it seems a really good buy...and almost went out and bought one straight away. My only problem is that it is 50mm....great for portraits etc....but to be honest, I do take a photographs of landscapes/buildings (being an architecture student)....so the 50mm is a nice to have, but a wider angle is what is needed...but unfortunately my budget it is tight £150 ish (i know that isn't a lot at all, and if i have to wait and save some more money I might have to but I am looking for a second hand lens). This means that I could really help with you guys getting me the most for my money.

I have also seen the really cheap (usually foreign imported) screw on lens additions to the 18-55mm (not quite sure what to call them) they come with a macro part and a wide angle part....what are peoples thoughts these?

Apologies for the long post, but any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

I asked this elsewhere, but I figured I'd ask it here, too:

I'm thinking of getting into landscape photography, which was an interest of mine I never really pursued.

I started with 135 (Velvia) and then went to 6x7 and eventually 4x5. And while I found 4x5 had everything I needed (amazing IQ, color, lens movements) it was too expensive and slow. I'm not a patient person I guess.

I'm thinking of selling off either my entire 4x5 kit or most of it and investing the money in T/S lenses for my 5D Mark III. I strongly, strongly prefer the IQ and color on 4x5 Velvia, but it is too much work to shoot and too expensive. I'm just too lazy.

My favorite focal lengths were 135mm, 180mm, and 300mm. What lenses should I get to mimic these? The 24mm TSE II seems like the best performer, but the 45mm and 90mm seem like they would give me the FOV I like. But the corner performance... yuck.

Then I'd get an ND 1.5 so I could do the long shutter speeds I like. Does that make sense?

Has anyone successfully been able to get velvia style color and tonality out of a Canon sensor? I'd overexpose a bit, meter so that the scenes I shot only had 4-5 stops of DR (very low contrast scenes), etc. But is there some way to match color (LUT)?

Thanks!

Hey guys, I usually do wildlife photography but wanted to try a model shoot, here are some of the results....only natural light and a reflector as I don't own a flash :/

Used a 5dm3, 24-105mm L and 100-400mm L

Any input is greatly appreciated...I m not really happy with the one on the floor

Here is an image from Lower Antelope Canyon near Page Arizona, taken in early October.

Just got the 6D and love it however, I have never really understood expanded ISO. The fact that the word expanded is used to describe the feature implies to me that its not real. So, my question is, if I switch from ISO 100 to 50, what is happening in the camera? There isn't less noise in the image is there? Is it just 100 with half the light allowed?
I would also like to understand what is happening at the other end of the scale. Not that I would ever, but what is going on at ISO 102,800?

I recently purchased the EOS 5D Mark III and although I'm happy with it in general I think the colors it produces are not what I see in real life. I haven't been able to afford a quality L lens so the only lens I'm shooting with right now is the 50mm 1.8 II. Could it be the culprit?

Here's an original photo (cropped), as you can see the color of the meat is very pinkish as if it's almost raw (in fact, it was almost cooked).




Here is the same photo color corrected to match real life colors as closely as possible (the color should have more orange tones to it).




Link to RAW image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/wwscr5ypsd0m41n/IMG_1564.CR2

Hello experts.

I just bought 24-70II and Zeiss 15mm. Both will reach me from USA on 19th. Am excited!

Various reviews mention that they had 'issues' with their 24-70 II. What procedures do you recommend for me to check if the lens is working properly? I have never 'checked' a lens before so all advice is appreciated.

Regards,

Sanjay

I just put up a second set of raw files from the 6D/5D3/5D2:

http://www.metrodcphotography.com/review/canon-6d-raw-sample-images-2/

This is along with the raw files described here:

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=11648.0

Well I finally invested in some stuff for off camera photography. I know that flash photography is a different from of photography that requires more practice. I just wanted to know if there's a site or a book that I can study to get better with my off camera flash. I currently have a "DSLRkit" Radio Trigger that I bought from ebay. It's like a combination of a Yungnuo and a Neweer radio control flash. I like it. I only have one flash so far and it's the Canon 430exII. I don't have an RC control in-camera because my camera was the last one to not have one implemented (Canon T1i)

So what's my next step? Should I practice using just one flash or should I purchase another flash like a Yongnuo YN560? Help me out fellow strobist

I have recently purchased a 5D mark III and have already put about 1k shots through it. I think I have more or less gotten it figured out pretty good and set up the way I like it.(upgraded from 7D) I was however wondering if there is a book or guide that the people here recommend reading in regards to how things like the servo mode af functions and how to set it up optimally for different types of sports? In particular for things like hockey, soccer and wildlife tracking (deer, moose and birds).

I shoot mostly landscape and portraits but for the odd time when I am shooting fast moving subjects I want to make sure I at least have the required knowledge to not miss the shot.

Any tips or book/reading material recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Mike

The more I have been shooting sports, the more I see that portrait shots make better ones than landscape. Can anyone give me advice on how to shoot (interesting) landscape shots for sports?

Last night I shot a 6 hour time-lapse on the summit of the highest peak in the east. My 1DX turned white with ice and snow, but kept clicking all night long. Hope you enjoy the clip.

Link: https://vimeo.com/55635735

Here is a single image from the sequence: