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Anybody upgrade from a 7D to 6D? What are your thoughts?

H
Back in May I upgraded from a Rebel XTi to a 7D with the anticipation that a new FF camera was going to come out sooner than later. I would sell my 7D and upgrade to whatever was nice and new. Sure enough, the 6D was announced. As a lot of people, I wasn't too thrilled with the initial specs of the 6D, but I am slowly starting to like what I'm reading.

I love the 7D. I think it's an amazing camera with one exception. I think it has too much noise. For that reason alone, I really want to upgrade. That being said, I'm not so sure I'll be happier with a FF camera. I mean, the build quality of the 7D seems really good to me and people are saying the 6D is closer to a 60D. Am I reading too much into this from a build quality perspective? I don't really need the fast fps, but it sure is fun to have. I am also worried about missing out on the advantage of having a cropped sensor. My walk around lens is the 70-200mm II. I love this lens. The pictures are extremely sharp and it has great clarity. Will this lens be even better on the 6D?

I know the images will look cleaner, sharper and nicer on the 6D. I mostly shoot landscape and people, but not really portraits. I do occasionally record video. Obviously I don't need a 5D3. I'm not a professional and I don't pay attention to every single feature of my camera. I'm still learning a lot and still getting used to shooting in manual+RAW. And I know a lot of people in here will laugh at me for this, but I use LR as a crutch to make my pictures look better while I get better at picture taking :) But hey, that's the truth.

I guess the bottom line is, I want really good image quality. I want it to look sharp, clear, and as little noise as possible. Here's are two pics I took with my 7D and 70-200mm II. Any critique is welcomed. Thanks!
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16-35L or related primes

madspihl
I own the Canon 16-35L (and a bunch of other lenses for that matter), and basically I'd love som feedback on a choice I feel I'd like to make.

Either

1) keep the 16-35 and be happy with a really good all-round wide zoom which is quite sharp, has fast autofocus, and is often stuck on one of my camerabodies (mostly the 5D Mark II),

or 2) Sell the 16-35 and buy the following setup:

  • Canon 14L 2.8 / Zeiss 15 2.8 / Rokinon(Samyang) 14 2.8 (autofocus not a must for me at this focal length)
  • Canon 24L 1.4
  • Sigma 35 1.4 (decided I prefer to get this one over the Canon 35L after reading reviews and seeing samples of image quality on FF

Setup is for full frame. Currently the 5D Mark II and III.

Keep the price out of this equation. I have just decided that if photography is what I want to do as much as I can, even if it's purely as a hobby, why not invest more in fast lenses, since I love the aperture versatility of 1.4s (and 1.2s for that matter).

Also, in theory I don't mind having more lenses to swap between in the 16-35 range if it means better glass and more possibilities in terms of lens speed. But what's your take on the combo of faster-glass-but-more-lenses-to-swap versus the walk-around-wide-zoom?

Has anyone else gone through this process, and do you have thoughts about making a change like this?

I am not going to keep the 16-35 . It doesn't make sense to me to have it if I buy the primes - even if it has a nice walk-around kind of versatility. I just have a feeling I wont use it with the primes hanging around.

Oh - and at these wider focal lengths I shoot mainly landscapes, night skies, and some action sports (snowmobiling, bmx).

Thanks!

Mads
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5D Mark III Frustrated Focusing problem

I am rather frustrated with some of the shots I am getting, in particular when I have two subjects I want to get in focus, but the one closest to the camera only comes in focus?
Also what is a good setting for getting the whole frame in focus, I have only been get certain parts of an image in focus when I want to get everything in focus?
Please help
Thanks
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5DMkIII: Finding your focus square(s) in low light....Solution works for me.

Frame in the general area, press the focus square selection button (focus squares are bright and easy to see), move the desired focus square over the point you want to focus, press the shutter button halfway and the bright focus squares dissapear and you now achieve focus and metering - take picture.

I have only tried this in manual with flash attached and turned on.

Hope this works for others that were having the same problem as me. I just could not find my selected focus square (usually center spot) as they were very dim and only remained on for a split second, lock focus and then shoot. I hope Canon will give us a fix for this in the April firmware update. I never had this problem with my 7D.

Let me know if anyone else has any other ideas. Thanks
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50mm macro vs. 60mm macro on aps-c body

T
Hello I have the 60mm macro and will likely be upgrading to the 6d or 5diii in the next few weeks. I really like the 60mm macro but obviously vant use it with the 5d3. However I do have a t3i for work stuff and do use macro frequently.

So, I am trying to decide if I should I sell the 60mm and get the 50mm macro so I can use it on both the t3i and 5diii....or is the 60mm macro so much better than the 50mm on an aps-c body that I should keep it?

I eventually want the 100mm f2.8 l macro with is but that is about a year away...

Thanks!
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100mm 2.8L vs 135mm 2.0L

H
I'd like to start doing macro photography, I'm not into faffing with flash, tripods and such, I like to handhold and shoot... I have a 135mm 2.0L and was pondering if I got a 100mm 2.8L macro, would I still use the 135mm ? It's currently one of the three lenses I use most. I'm aware of focal length change, but what about the look of the images ? The colour and soft focus areas, Is there a difference to the look when used as a normal telephoto at similar lengths to the 135mm ?
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Canon 50mm 1.8iii... L... Real or fake?

S
What do we have here???
I found this just browsing google, I've seen this on other sites but I've included this one for example.

http://www.flickriver.com/photos/mursu/4362751144/

What will we see happen to the lineup?

My opinion...

50mm 1.8 ii-ameuture's 50
($100)
----------------------------------

50mm 1.4 ii-consumer 50, but pro enough for people who need 1.4
($400-$600)

50mm 1.8 iii L-consumer/semi-pro lens, for people who need a sharp 50, but don't want to spend a ton of $$$ for a wider aperatures, but don't need it.
($700-$900)

These will probably be aimed at 6d users specifically, but will be good enough for pros who just don't need a 1.2, like the 24-70 f4 is l, and the new 24mm is and 28mm is. But it would be nice for canon to seperate a sharper lens for a wider-aperatures lens, in order to drop the price a bit.
-----------------------------------------
Canon 50mm 1.2 L ii-for the pros and bokeh whores. :)
($1,700-$2,000)

I understand this photo is probably a custom lens with a sticker and a modified mount, but it gets me thinking, and I'd like to see something like this.

Please leave your own dream list if you'd like. :)
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Nikkor Vs L Lens

C
Hey folks i am wondering if there is any reason why Nikon Nikkor lens are significantly cheeper than Canon L glass at the super tele end. Im looking at the 400mm f2.8 and 600 f4's from both and the Nikkor versions are about £4000 cheeper.

Are the current Nikkor lenses quite old or just not as well built. Are there other factors (AF Speed/IQ/Weight) that would mean when upgrading my super tele on Nikon i could get a pro body and lens for the same as just upgrading my Canon Lens?

Please note i am not interested in what body is best just now, only lens quality of the 400 2.8 and 600 f4 range. And i would agree with anyone that says the Nikkor lens are not very ascetically pleasing.

Example
Nikkor 600mm F4 + Nikon D4 = £11269.99
Canon 600mm F4 II + Canon 1Dx = £15899.99
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A little mod I came up with

D
Using the ST-E3-RT is wonderful. Before going Canon RT I had a transmitter mounted to my Sekonic L-358 and fired my flashes via a receiver on the camera. That all changed with the Canon transmitter.

I now use Auto Reset Cordless Flash mode on my L-358. Carrying around the Transmitter was a pain when I needed two hands. I cut a spare mini stand (the one that comes with a flash) down to size and attached a spare Black Rapid connector. It now hangs from my belt or belt loop and I make all the adjustments at location. When done I just pop the transmitter on the camera.

This is my second mod. It was hard to lock the foot on the generic mini stand and I did not want to wreck the rubber seal. I cut up the foot that came with the flash and ordered a new one from Canon.

_S7A9539.jpg
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Somerset Levels in Flood

Kernuak
A couple of weeks ago, the southwest of England had a huge amount of rain in a few days, leading to widespread flooding. The Somerset Levels were particularly badly hit and some roads are still closed. While the Levels have been greatly modified by humans over the centuries and are designed to flood to protect the surrounding towns and villages, the flood defences were overwhelmed. Yesterday, I decided to venture out, having worked out which roads were still closed (and therefore unpassable for mere mortals in cars). The floods have receded (although you wouldn't think so from these photos), but are still extensive. In fact they are so extensive, it's difficult to convey the full extent in photographs.


Southlake Moor Floods by Kernuak (avalonlightphotoart.co.uk), on Flickr

New Spillway by Kernuak (avalonlightphotoart.co.uk), on Flickr

Saltmoor Flooding by Kernuak (avalonlightphotoart.co.uk), on Flickr

Southlake Moor at Dusk by Kernuak (avalonlightphotoart.co.uk), on Flickr
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5d MK III : AF cases to shoot Punkrock - metal concerts

hello,

2 questions about AF on (hard) rock concertphotography :

1. what AF case should I use ?

2. I shoot mostly with manal selection spot-AF and spot light metering.
But when I choose one of the outer focus points, camera still focusses more in center.
What could be the reason, and how can I avoid that behaviour.
I suppose it's my technique and nog equipment failure.

Please advise.
kind regards,
w.
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Why no L primes from 14 to 24mm

I have recently added the 24-70mm f2.8L II, and I am considering droping my 16-35mm f2.8L II for a prime of around 18-21mm to save a bit of weight and space.

The Canon 20mm f2.8 is awful, but there is nothing else, why such a big gap in Canon's range.

I think my options are the Zeiss 18mm f3.5 or the Canon TSE 17mm. Of the two the Zeiss would be smaller and lighter. But looking at 'The Digital Picture' site the Zeiss appears to be slightly worse than my 16-35mm. If I change I want at least equal optical quality, preferably better.
Are there any other suggestions?
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Recommendations for three weeks in the Middle East

J
I'm heading off to the Middle East (Egypt, Jordan and Israel) for three weeks, partly as vacation, but likely ninety percent for work (mostly editorial print clients).
While I'll spend most of my time traveling independently, there will be days when I'm with a group, so I'll need to keep what I carry to a manageable size and weight. The vast majority of what I'll be shooting will be outdoors, from dawn until after dusk.
My plan is to take three cameras (1DX and 1DS bodies, or perhaps a 7D as backup), four lenses, the 16-35 (II), 24-105, 70-200/2.8 (II), the 300/2.8, along with a 1.4 teleconverter. I'll carry this in a large backpack which I'll wear nearly all the time. In it I'll have my CF cards, a cable release, table tripod, perhaps an extra battery, as well as two or three spare UV filters.
Instead of a full-size tripod, I plan on taking a monopod (besides, it will likely serve as a hiking stick on the rough terrain I'll encounter). A laptop, two external hard drives, chargers and power cords will be carried separately.
I'll likely work wearing two bodies around my neck, typically one with the wide zoom, the other having the long, although I'm sure at times the 300 (without or with the 1.4 x) will be the lens of choice. I'm thinking the 24-105 will be the least used. I'm not much of a normal lens user, and I'm only carrying this to fill a gap.
Now, I'm wondering what I might be missing. I don't have any glass faster than f:2.8, but figure that, between the high ISO capability of the 1DX, my table and mono pods, as well as IS, I'll be fine for most anything I should encounter. And, other than the one on the 7D, I don't plan on taking a flash (and may not even use that). But, I am considering a folding reflector if I can fit it in the pack.
I'm fit and a pretty fair hiker, so carrying the 35 or so pounds won't be the issue nearly as much as space and convenience. What would be your suggestions I add or ditch?
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6D vs 5Dii - The End of an Era?

MichaelTheMaven
Im going to put this out there simply because I think the writing is on the wall for the 5Dii. At $300 cost difference, is there any major functionality that the 5Dii has over the 6D? I have been asked by at least 2 dozen different people which is the better camera, and after my tests this week, I can't think of a good reason to recommend the 5Dii over the 6D, which is crazy, the 5Dii has been like my right arm for 4 years.

I did some moire tests on the 5Dii vs 6D, they are both pretty bad, but the ISO noise tests were impressive, the 6D even out performed the 5DIII's higher video noise. I posted some of the results here:

http://youtu.be/C5wCSSEi3rs

I did full range high ISO noise tests on the 5Dii, 5Diii, 6D and Nikon D600. The 6D's is by far the cleanest once you go over 3200. (Below that is harder to tell).

I also took a bunch of High ISO RAW images with all 4 cameras and will be making them available for download next week on my Blog if you guys want to play with them. (Think RAW noise banding type tests).

Is there anything else you guys want me to test?

MM
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History Lesson: Canon FDn 1200 f/5.6L 1.4x Lens Images

Canon Rumors
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<div name="googleone_share_1" style="position:relative;z-index:5;float: right; /*margin: 70px 0 0 0;*/ top:70px; right:120px; width:0;"><g:plusone size="tall" count="1" href="http://www.canonrumors.com/2012/12/history-lesson-canon-fdn-1200-f5-6l-1-4x-lens-images/"></g:plusone></div><div style="float: right; margin:0 0 70px 70px;"><a href="https://twitter.com/share" class="twitter-share-button" data-count="vertical" data-url="http://www.canonrumors.com/2012/12/history-lesson-canon-fdn-1200-f5-6l-1-4x-lens-images/">Tweet</a></div>
<strong>Canon FDn 1200 f/5.6L 1.4x


</strong><a href="http://www.canonrumors.com/2012/12/correction-and-history-lesson-about-built-in-teleconverters-in-canon-lenses/" target="_blank">We posted about the FDn 1200 f/5.6L 1.4x lens</a>, which was the first Canon lens to have a built in teleconverter. I was having a hard time find a photograph of one, and apparently only 5 of these lenses were ever made and never went to production.</p>
<p>Thankfully, Phil from Australia scanned and sent us some images of said lens in action. These images are from the Easter Bike Races in Bathurst, Australia. Canon Australia had one ”on loan for a few years”, until EOS was launched in 1987 and these lenses became EF mount without the 1.4 teleconverter.</p>
<p><em>Thanks Phil</em></p>
<div id="attachment_12210" class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 585px"><a href="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/fdn1200_01.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-12210" title="fdn1200_01" src="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/fdn1200_01-575x418.jpg" alt="" width="575" height="418" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">FDn 1200mm f/5.6L 1.4x | Click for Larger</p></div>
<div id="attachment_12211" class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 585px"><a href="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/fdn1200_02.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-12211" title="fdn1200_02" src="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/fdn1200_02-575x504.jpg" alt="" width="575" height="504" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">FDn 1200mm f/5.6L 1.4x | Click for Larger</p></div>
<p> </p>
<div id="attachment_12212" class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 585px"><a href="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/fdn1200_03.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-12212" title="fdn1200_03" src="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/fdn1200_03-575x448.jpg" alt="" width="575" height="448" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">FDn 1200mm f/5.6L 1.4x | Click for Larger</p></div>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>
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24-105 or 24-70 for weddings, events, travelling (priority in that order)

X
Without taking money into account, which of these lenses would you choose?

As of this moment, I am a stronger believer in shooting only prime lenses (I own 35L.85L.135L), however, I'm tempted to get a zoom for Weddings, Events, and Travelling.

In the past, I've encountered some venues with VERY poor lighting and set up as a result of poor organizers without much consideration of the photography. At these instances, I find myself shooting a lot at f2 for consistency reasons with high high ISOs (ISO 6400 - 10000 on 5D3) or I find myself missing moments because I lack the room to move about.

This really bugs me and I feel a flash coupled with one the two aforementioned 2 lenses will able to solve my problems. I understand the merits of having a f2.8 over a f4 lens in low light IF theres no flash involved, however, if we factor one in, how much does it the f2.8 really help? My other photographer friend is telling me 2.8 because of the low light capabilities, but like i said before, I don't feel this applies to me because A) I have f1.2-1.4 primes for when SHTF and B) I personally find there are marginal benefits for low light when a flash is involved. The 24-105 in my case APPEARS to be the ideal choice because its more compact, has IS (dreams of trying out cinematography later on), and a longer range.

What do you more seasoned photographers think about this? Are there factors I have forgotten to take into account?

Also, how much better is the glass on 24-70? (Yes this bugs me :D)
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Canon 5d Mk III error 20

Today during a shoot I got error 20 on my canon 5d mk3, and form that moment camera is not responding, I have tried to remove battery, change the lens and sometimes it gives error 20, sometimes when I turn it on it is completely dead.
Anybody had a similar problem?
And if yes, is it repairable in a decent period of time or I will have to wait more than few days?
Best
T.
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35mm f/2 IS USM available in Japan

Zv
Amazon.jp has this lens showing as in stock as of yesterday. Selling for ¥66,000 which is $800, it's on my wish list. Should I just get it and end the suspense? It took 6 months for the price to drop on the similar 24 / 28 , seems like an ok deal to me. I thought about the sigma but for me size, weight and IS are more important. Think I might do it.
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Correction and History Lesson About Built-in Teleconverters in Canon Lenses

Canon Rumors
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<strong>Canon FDn 1200mm f/5.6L


</strong>I made a <a href="http://www.canonrumors.com/2012/12/ef-800-f5-6l-is-ii-other-big-lenses/" target="_blank">post a few days ago about built-in teleconverters</a> and said that the EF 200-400 f/4L IS 1.4x was the first Canon lens with the built-in 1.4x teleconverter technology. While it will be the first production lens to have the feature, Canon did in fact make 5 lenses back in 1984 for the Los Angeles Summer Games in the form of an FDn 1200mm f/5.6L that also had a 1.4x teleconverter built in. All 5 of these lenses were shipped back to Canon in Japan and converterted to EF mount. These lenses then became the legendary made to order EF 1200 f/5.6L without the built-in teleconverter.</p>
<p>If you’ve never heard about the super rare Canon EF 1200 f/5.6L, Bryan at TDP has a great article about his time with the lens. <a href="http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-1200mm-f-5.6-L-USM-Lens-Review.aspx" target="_blank">Read it here</a>..</p>
<p><em>Thanks for the heads up Phil</em></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>
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New Tilt-Shift Lenses in 2013 [CR2]

Canon Rumors
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<strong>New 45mm & 90mm tilt-shift lenses


</strong>The 45mm and 90mm tilt-shift lenses are slated for release sometime in 2013. They will get the fully adjustable movements that are seen in the 17L and 24L tilt-shifts. Both will receive bigger image circles as well as performance. No mention of whether or not they’d get the “L” treatment, but I would assume they will.</p>
<p>It’s also mentioned that a 5th lens with “special movements” would also be added to the lineup. What would it be? Perhaps some kind of unique new macro.</p>
<p>Source: [<a href="http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/Canon_new_lenses.html" target="_blank">NL</a>]</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>
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