Have the money to get the 24-70 2.8 II to pair with my 1Dx. It seems like a no brainer to me. I'll be using for event photography, portraits and will be getting into weddings. That said I'd really like to have a 70-200 as I love that range and use it often whether for surf photography or something else. Given the ISO performance on the 1Dx do I need IS (I really don't have enough money for the 2.8 IS II but may be able to swing the ver I)? Could I even go to f4 with good results or will I be spoiled by the sharpness of the 24-70?

Hey guys, opening up to thoughts here. What would you guys think about a line of canon lenses with wide aperatures, but no aperature blades.

If there were 1.0-2.0 prime lenses, with no aperature blades, sharp glass for the single aperature (L or not), built quality of the new IS primes, and a USM for a cheap price, would you buy it?

Of course aperature blades are important, but a line like this would be really nice for amateurs and enthusiasts wanting wide aperatures.

I have no ballpark price estimate, but this would make for a much simpler computer.

Hey guys! First post, so I apologize if I sound like a fool who didn't use Search (I did, I promise.)

Last year I finally upgraded from my plasticky rebel to a 7D, and fell in love with the build quality and tighter controls.

I already had a trio of 28 f/1.8, 50 f/1.4, and 85 f/1.8, but my friend recently gave me his 17-40mm f/4L and 100 f/2.8L to borrow indefinitely. I tend to shoot mostly indoors stuff, so I'd love to use the 17-40L more often, but on a crop body it's really slow versus an EF-S 17-55 f/2.8 (or my friend's Sigma 17-50 f/2.8).

Is the 5D2 going to present a noticeable upgrade in noise performance over the 7D? One problem with my indoors stuff is that I have to bump my ISO up to 3200 at times, which looks pretty bad on Canon's ancient T2i/T3i/T4i/60D/7D crop sensor. The 5D3 and 1D-X are both sick, but those are WAY out of my price range. The 6D doesn't appeal to me terribly after I've fallen in love with the 7D's build quality and control scheme; so that leaves the 5D2.

Has anyone upgraded directly from the 7D to the 5D2? How does it do in terms of low-light performance? Is it worth the jump? I'd probably sell my 7D for around $900 used, and pick up a new 5D2 for around $1500 online (or used for $1300 hopefully).

Thanks y'all!

I'd like to solicit thoughts and opinions about how to use a 100L at less than 1 foot distance [edit] or perhaps same working distance but greater magnification.

My guess is a diopter on front or extension tube on back or maybe both?

Please chime in if you have a solution and can comment about the pros and cons!

LOL, maybe the right answer is MP65 but not ready to go there just yet...

I have 5d Mark III, Tamron 28-75 2.8, and few primes 40 2.8, 50 1.4, 85 1.8, 135 2.0, and finally 17-40 that I got recently (used) and seem to rarely use. I'm mostly taking pictures indoors, fast moving twins, trying mostly without flash, as I can't bounce effectively when subject is very close (jumping on me).

I use 28-75 quite a bit, always on 2.8, unless one of the primes is on (love shallow depth of field). I find that I often want just a bit more than 75mm to not change position and capture moment.

So I find myself constantly drawn to 24-105, though I rented it when I had 5D mark II, and I wasn't crazy about it, 4.0 felt slow inside of my house. But, I feel like it would be such practical lens because of range, set and forget, that I'm thinking of selling 17-40 and buying 24-105. But then, I can spend few more bucks and get Tamron 24-70 2.8. Currently, in Toronto, it would be less than 50% to jump from craigslist 24-105 to retail Tamron 24-70 2.8.

Am I just going crazy because I want to spend some money? Or is there real benefit to getting one of these 2...

My mom attributes my tendency to upgrade to 5d from 7d on being a taurian (sun sign taurus)
So just wondering how many taurians upgraded from the 7d to the mark 3,maybe I'd too
P.S- I know this doesnt come under eos bodies

Sorry for the trouble and thanks in advance

Hey!

I have got a 7D (with a 50mm 1.4), but would like to step into the full frame world, but I am on budget, so I need a full frame canon camera which would cost less than 900$~ (it can be used)

I checked the 1ds mark 1 (classic), but the max. 1250 ISO is just a bit low for me (3200 would be nice)

you can give me link if you can.

Thanks!

A nicely done, step-by-step control guide of the 600EX-RT.
Seems like a lot of people would benefit from this:
This came across in my feed today about the 600EX-RT.

http://thephotographyscoopblog.com/2013/01/11/the-complete-canon-600ex-rt-flash-tutorial/

As many of you may know...The 85 L II is a special lens...but not the closest focusing lens out there. I find that, sometimes to get in tight I am using a (3rd-party) 12mm extension tube...but I am having some issues with this set-up on my 5DIII... (BTW my copy of the lens is spot-on with AF accuracy,i.e. AF micro adjustment is zero.).

1. When I use my 3rd party extension tube...I find that I have to set the AF Micro Adjustment to +20.
Does anyone using this set-up with the Canon 12mm Extension Tube II have this much variation in AF?
2. When I use my set-up with the 3rd-party tube, in the AF Micro Adjustment Menu my 5DIII recognizes my set-up as
"only" the 85mm lens (not lens plus tube)...and therefore each time I use this set-up I have to manually enter the
AF Micro Adjustment and then set the MA back to zero or it will throw off my AF the next time I use the 85mm
without the ext tube.
My 2nd question is: If I use the 85mm with the Canon 12mm Extension Tube II does the AF Micro adjustment
menu on my 5D III recognize this set-up as 85mm PLUS 12mm Ext. Tube and keep it separate from the AF Micro
Adjustment for the 85mm by itself? (i.e. does the AF Micro Adjustment Menu treat this situation the same as it
does when I use a Canon Tele Extender on a Canon Lens?)
Thanks.

Hi all!

As the title says it all, what do you pro's suggest me to do?
I'm currently shooting the 100-400 mm IS on 50D, and am more or less satisfied about the results (aviation spotting), but as it has had its best time I'm looking for an alternative.

Both the 300 mm and 400 mm primes crossed my mind, but I miss -or mm for the 300 mm or IS for the 400 mm- .
So, would it be wise to buy a 400 mm prime f5.6 non-IS, or 300 mm f4 prime IS with extender now.. or just keep the 100-400 mm IS a bit longer until rumors become reality at an affordable price tag (max would be $3000)?

Note: I love playing with the photoshop elements 'cropping tool', so which one gives the best results for some heavy cropping?

Thanks for your help !

G.

I would like to register the middle AF point in single-point spot AF mode,and use the AF-ON button to start focussing.I use the AE lock button to start focussing any other manually selected AF point.However,the AF area selection mode isn't registered(only the AF point is) but changes to for example AF point expansion,or any other AF area mode you manually select.Is this something for a firmware update? ( and get rit of the blinking too?)

Hi, I know it has been done before. But this morning I was shooting my cat at ISO 51200 in an almost dark bedroom at 6:30 a.m. today. Canon 5D3, Canon EF 50 F/1.4 @ F/1.6, 1/40 sec. While a small amount of ambiental light fingered into the room I manually focussed at the animals ears which I saw better than it's eyes, therefore the face is slightly out of focus. Photograph above: no NR applied. Photograph below: NR value in both Luminance Noise & Chromniance Noise: 14 out of 20 in Canon's free software Digital Photo Professional. This goes way beyond my wildest enthusiast amateur dreams! Watch it in full mode, although due to reduction in post for webupload the difference is less obvious. But the pic without NR looks as grainy as back in the filmdays...But that's quite awesome at these ISOs! 8)


BildpaketKLEIN by Peter Hauri, on Flickr

Nikon has patented for a 16-35mm f/2.8 VR lens (VR of Nikon is the equivalent of the IS of Canon).
Does Canon plan on making an equivalent of Nikon's recently patented lens?

...and I'm writing this to counter all the recent Canon bashing and flaming here, I can't find anything worth buying!

My 5D2 needs an upgrade, but the 5D3 doesn't have interchangeable focus-screens which I need for wide-aperture (manual) lenses (and the lack of improvement in the shadow noise is a bit of a let-down). The 1DX would be possible, too, but for that amount of cash I'd like 24 or 28 megapixels (with proportionally slower frame rate), everything else is great.

Since moving to full-frame the 70-200 is a bit short, but I don't want to substitute it with a less-sharp-and-inferior-IS 100-400, give me a new version already, or an updated 300 f/4, I'll take whatever comes first! And what about wide-angle, where is the 14-24 competitor, or even a 17-40 or 16-35 that's half as sharp? Where is the quality 20 IS USM to go with the 24 and 28?

And don't get me started on all the missing or crippled firmware features, some decent updates there might have pushed me to a 5D3 or 1DX, but there's no real auto-iso in m with exposure compensation, no proper way to set the min and max shutter speed or aperture in the semi-auto modes, no histogram when zoomed in like the smallest nikons do, ... ... ...

Rant finished, obviously I don't make my living from photography, but that doesn't mean I wouldn't spend some more on it, because I do shoot a lot and some things are often difficult with my current gear!

The title of the previous Sigma 1.4 post was about pre-release. Now The Digital Picture has given it its first unqualified reccomendation vs. the OEM product,
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Sigma-35mm-f-1.4-EX-DG-HSM-Lens-Review.aspx

and Lens Rentals has literally gushed over it.. http://www.lensrentals.com/rent/canon/lenses/wide-angle/sigma-35mm-f1.4-dg-hsm-a1-for-canon
What are we to think?

With respect to the Custom Function reassign options on the 5D Mark III, I saw one that Neuro suggested and that was to reassign the DOF button to One Shot > AI Servo and visa versa. After setting this up and pressing the "Q" button I noted all the settings including One Shot as displayed on the screen. However pressing the DOF button did not alter the One Shot mode on the back menu via the Q button. In calling Canon this is apparently is now a bug as you can only see this toggle occur on the Top of the camera or by pressing the INFO button 3x. I guess its not safe to say 2 out 3 ain't bad. The tech took the report I had offered and listed it as a flaw and hope we see this update in the firmware forthcoming.

Onto the GP-E2 (GPS) - I've noted this phenomena several times where the time stamp on the camera has been altered by an hour when the GPS is connected. Of course one has to supercede the other..either the camera time or the GPS clock. Basically with the correct time zone and DLS "on" the clock goes off by an hour. I ultimately opted to go into the GPS settings and turn off Daylight Savings time and this seemed to cure the issue. The tech was able to repeat this same issue and advised I turn daylight savings back on in the spring. Not so. That defeats the whole purpose of DLS to begin with. This is clearly a bug. He ultimately agreed when I presented "my PC is on DLS I don't ever mess with that time why should I have to do this with your GPS device"? I hope in this next firmware release we will see resolutions to both of the above issues.

Nice comparison an backs up my own observations on just how good the Fuji XE-1/X-Pro 1 is with their 35mm lens...

http://fujixfiles.blogspot.de/2013/01/how-good-is-fuji-xf-35mm-f14-r-lens.html

ET

Hi! Any recommendations for a battery pack for the 600EX-RT???

Thanks

I've used a 7D for a while, mainly for wildlife photography, and I love the camera. A couple weeks back I took the plunge and ordered a 5D Mark iii. It arrived day before yesterday and I immediately mated it with my 100-400 FL 4.5-5.6. I've spent the last two days prowling around and photographing birds.

The differences between this camera and my 7D are simply amazing. The autofocus on the 7D is pretty good. On the Mark iii it is fantastic. I have been able to acquire subjects in lighting that would have been out of the question in the 7D. Noise reduction is far superior in the Mark iii. With my 7D my "go to" ISO is 320. I've been shooting at 640 with the Mark iii and the images are far less noisy than at 320 on my 7D. The metering seems to be superior as well. Spot metered photos with the Mark iii seem to be far less influenced by contrasty backgrounds than with the 7D. Finally, the full frame format is not an apparent disadvantage for shooting wildlife because I can crop my images with much less loss of detail than with the 7D.

This is a wonderful camera and that's based on only two days and couple hundred images' use. I'd thought I'd use my 7D as a backup for the Mark iii but I'm beginning to wonder if I'll ever put the Mark iii down.

I recently tripped and my 35L gently touched the pavement while in my camera bag. At first, I didn't notice any problems, however, i tried using it at my friend's birthday party and I noticed the something was wrong.
From what I can tell, the lens now suffers from the very common 50 1.4 focus stuck problem.
Have any of you experienced a similar problem? Any idea how much i should expect to pay for the repair? :/
I'd love to get this fixed myself because I'm heading off to vegas on monday and its the only walk around lens i have... canon depot quoted me 10-15 days

I have a chance to get a 1DMkIII, at what probably is a very decent price. I'm somewhat surprised how much they've depreciated compared to the 1DMkIV.
Admittedly, they had their issues when they first came out and they are only 10MP, but in terms of durability and when I don't need extremely large image sizes (that's why I have a 1DSMkIII), they more than hold their own.
I'm also told this is one of the later models that came out after the focusing problems were addressed.
I'm rather partial to the 1D series of cameras, as the nature of my work puts bodies to a pretty rigorous test. What I'm wondering is whether I should go for this rather than a 5DMkII or 7D I'm currently using as backup, or spend roughly twice as much for another 1DSMkIII?

I know, based on my experiences of the last few weeks, I really should upgrade and buy at least a couple 1DXs, a most awesome piece of equipment!

I may eventually get to this answer on my own (reading the manual and a couple of other documents/books on the 5D Mk III) but have an event next week and am trying to figure out what the fastest way to change manual flash output level from the camera is (i.e. 1/1 - 1/128).

I tried the Flash exposure adjustment (doubles with the ISO button then use the quick dial) but that only affects TTL flash, not the manual setting. So far, if I want manual flash and adjust my light output from the camera, I have to go to external speedlite control. Quickest method of getting to that I've found is assigning it to the top slot in My Menu.

Is there a way of assigning a single button so I can jump directly into external speedlite control?

I am using a 5D Mk III, YN568EX and YN622c transceivers, if that matters.

I just bought a new 17-40L, and I'm happy that I didn't get it from ebay (the offers weren't good enough vs the current Canon rebate program) because the lens shows visible decentering - see attached 100% crops of bottom vs. top, my first thought was that the chart was tilted... but it wasn't me or the camera and now I'm going to get a replacement from Amazon.

I wonder how many times your lenses were exchanged (or how many copies you tested side by side) until you received a lens that was a good copy?

Looking at the crops, would you also have returned the lens, or is something like this to be expected and I'm spoiled by better lenses?

Btw, if anyone wonders: As far as I tested it the 17-40L is a good (landscape) zoom lens for the money even on crop, it's just the corners and that it doesn't reach max. sharpness wide open but needs to be stopped down a little to f5.6+

Edit: afma should be no issue @f4+ and my 60d doesn't have it anyway ... with this 17-40L copy I couldn't tell lv from phase af. The crops are of course focused with contrast af and shot on tripod with mirror lockup.

http://thedigitalpicture.com/Reviews/Sigma-35mm-f-1.4-EX-DG-HSM-Lens-Review.aspx

what he said.