Just wanted to share a few thoughts on the 6D, given all the negativity about it, specifically why I'm interested in getting one. I shoot primarily with a 5D Mark II. I use my camera for snapshots sometimes, but mainly for landscape work and travel. On my honeymoon I took a minimalist approach and we just brought my wife's Rebel T2i with us to Kaua'i. I shot with it a bunch and enjoyed the lightweight and simplicity. When I got back from the trip, I thought about investing in my own Rebel package for travel, but never got around to it, mainly because it would likely involve some new lenses in addition to a body.

When I started looking at the EOS 6D, just out of curiosity, I quickly realized how it would fit the bill well for travel. The main complaints I see around the web, including in forums here, are about the autofocus. A couple thoughts on this: first, during the film era, only the highest-end cameras had a large amount of autofocus points, 45 on the 1V and 3V. The last ELAN to be released had 7 points. 7. Just because you can put more autofocus points into a body doesn't mean you need to. I have 9 autofocus points on my 5D Mark II. I shoot with one. I only shoot with one on my 20D. No, I don't do sports, no I don't photograph children at play. I tend to believe, though, that a camera is a tool and different tools are designed for different purposes. I think that the 6D's autofocus system is going to be perfect for me AND represents an advancement for Canon. Second, people married to numbers may be surprised by the concept that there's more to an autofocus system than points. The 6D can reportedly autofocus in -3EV conditions. That's a one stop improvement over the 5d Mark III and a two stop improvement over the 5D Mark II. I fail to see how this is an antiquated system.

Additionally, for travel and many other applications, size and weight matter. The fact that Canon placed a full frame sensor into essentially a 20D body is impressive to me. With a prime on it, I could shoot with that thing for a week straight. I would surmise that travel is where most people's home SLRs get the most use and that's what the 6D is, a high-end consumer SLR. In my opinion, it's the best SLR camera on the market for travel for these reasons. It's also telling that it was released near a lightweight L zoom and an image stabilized fast wide prime, two perfect companions on a trip to Europe.

Before some accusations start flying, I'm not a Canon apologist. If I were buying my first digital camera today, I'd buy a Nikon. But if I were an amateur photographer with a D5100 and one or two lenses and, like many camera owners, tended to only take pictures when traveling, the 6D would hold a lot of allure.

Maybe we need to get away entirely from the direct Nikon/Canon comparison? I talked with a pro landscape guy recently who shoots with the D800 and he said he wishes Nikon had an offering comparable to the 5D Mark III that he could supplement his D800 with. He didn't say, "I wish my camera had the same features," rather he saw them as different tools. I think with lenses, top of the line cameras, and entry level cameras, comparisons are easily justifiable and they typically are designed for parallel purposes. But for the camera bodies in between, I think we all need to keep an open mind that different camera owners use their tool for different reasons and Nikon and Canon are both actively doing market research to find niches for new tools for our toolboxes. All this said, the 6D may very well fall victim to Canon's failure to differentiate the 6D from the D600 through active marketing, and that is definitely a problem.

I'd appreciate any thoughts you all have on what you look for in a camera for travel and whether you agree that the 6D is well suited for that purpose.

Santa, if you're reading this (Santa's a Canon fan, right?), please bring me a 6D on Christmas.

Hi all,
I've been shooting with a 60D (my first dSLR) since 2010 or 2011, and am naturally considering going FF. The thing is, everybody asks, "will I benefit from going FF?", and the answer is more likely "yes" -- although it sure depends on the photographer and his/her uses for the camera. What we seldom know is, do these folks who upgraded and now have better gear take better pics now, or is it all the same? For how many of them has upgrading made significant difference?
So I ask you FF shooters: what is it that you can do nowadays with you FF that you would no longer be able to do if you downgraded to crop?
Hope it doesn't sound too crazy -- it makes sense in my mind...
Cheers

Hello all,
Im trying to convince my talented photographer friend to switch from her outdated Olympus dslr to a Canon 5D Mark II (She cant afford the extra for the MkIII).
Here simple question was "do professionals use the MkII?".
I said lots and jumped on google but found it impossible to find a list of famous professionals who currently or recently used this camera.
So if you know of any please reply with name and link to they're site if possible and I'll compile a list

Cheers
Stu

trying to figure out but no clue

https://vimeo.com/54734715

I took these shots over the last week while playing with my Stopshot controllers.


Dressing Up by CalevPhoto, on Flickr


Jacob's Ladder by CalevPhoto, on Flickr


Tower Landing by CalevPhoto, on Flickr

Hi, long time reader and first time poster here.

My current lens setup for weddings is a 24-105, 50, and a 70-200 on a 1.3x body and 1.6x as a backup/2nd body. I'm considering swapping the 24-105 for a 16-35 ii. Anybody use a 16-35, 50, and 70-200 setup and are happy with it?

I love my 24-105, and it produces some very nice images, but I have found that it is leaving me wanting more on the wide end (especially with a 1.3x body) and in low light. Also, while my 70-200 produces very nice, sharp portraits with great bokeh and my 50mm works well indoors with low light and is good for subject isolation, I'm just not getting many images with the "wow" factor out of the 24-105. And with every bride's mother running around with a rebel and a kit lens, I'm definitely having to produce lots of those "wow" images to make clients happy. Looking back, most of the pictures made with the 24-105 are at the wide or long end too.

So while I know the 16-35 will produce those amazing wide-angle shots, will it be worth it to lose those focal lengths between 35 and 50 as well as 50 and 70?

Hi,

My wife is giving birth in July and I will have a 6D by then to take pics of the kid.

My only question is when to buy. Is it likely that the 6D will drop in price from Dec. 2011 to July 2012? If so, I will wait...

Or is Canon like Apple, and will not likely lower the price (e.g. I bought an iPhone4 an unnecessary 7 months after it first came out hoping for a price drop, which never happened).

Just curious if you have any insight based on Canon's pricing history. Much appreciated, thanks!

First off I want to note how overjoyed I am with the C100. Canon Log mode is awesome, and the integration and quality when paired with the Atomos Ninja 2 external recorder is breathtaking. The C100 seems completely designed around the Ninja 2 to the point that I am never going to use the internal SD cards as anything other than safeties. Media for both are cheap as chips and batteries for both are too, which is refreshing given the absolutely professional results recording this sensor (the same as in the C300 and C500) in Canon Log mode to ProRes 422 HQ at 220Mbps. The ergonomics and build is just a joy...this is what it should be like, no more mussing with DSLRs or fiddly cheap camcorders or overweight and overpriced and high maintenance pro cams. Lovely. Pleased as punch.

If you want great quality 1080p24 video with the lowest pain-in-the-arse factor ever, buy a C100 and Ninja 2 and use Canon Log with View Assist to ProRes HQ. Use custom white balance, use the NDs instead of dropping below the native ISO of 850, and expose for the highlights. Compose your shot and follow focus using the various focus assist features of the C100 and/or Ninja. You're all set, your video will be captured beautifully with full use of the 12 stops of dynamic range, there'll be no transcode time into your Mac-based NLE, and all options for pulling a custom look will be available in post without penalty. For all this, the total cost of ownership of the camera and recorder, plus enough battery power and storage for six hours of continuous shooting time without an offload, is just $8000.

Nothing else touches that at this quality, at this low-light capability, and with this build and workflow/ergonomic factors. For pro-level cameras from RED or Sony you are looking at $8000 just for a few hours' worth of the media.

Now the praise indicated, let's get right down to what sucks.

First of all, there's no slo-mo at all. You can shoot at PF30 (a'la 30p wrapped for HDMI) and get subtle slomo conforming to 24p, but the FS700's 240fps for 1080p, while limited to 10 second bursts, is real slomo. Other than that you can have the FS700 I don't want one.

There's only 1080p. It's a very well done, high res 1080p when recorded on the Ninja. But there is no opportunity for cropping in post to recompose a shot while maintaining full 1080p resolution as there is on a 2.5K or 4K camera. Cropping is a side effect of smoothcam-style stabilization in post among other things, which you might think such a relatively compact camera would be used for.

The rolling shutter jello is still a problem on this as most CMOS cams, it's not so bad but it's not so terrific either.

The built-in viewfinder is a joke. Usable only in a pinch. The Zacuto EVF is a nice plus, though awfully low-res. Zacuto has made a loupe for the onboard screen but it looks fiddly to me and not as solid a solution as theirs for the 5D3. I am getting a Hoodman cover for the Ninja to see if that helps in sunlight. Atomos is supposedly developing a sunshade or loupe for the Ninja as well.

There is no digital level as there is on the 5D3 and even RX100. Getting a shot level is quite important in film when you are operating with only 2MP of resolution. Back to spirit (bubble) levels then?

The side-grip is the same as for the C300. It feels nice but it's hollow and resonant and the buttons and aperture dial are quite noisy for film use. The handle should be filled with acoustic dampener (I may try) and the dial declicked.

You can remove the side-grip and put a thumb rest in its place, but if you do, there's no way at all to adjust the ISO/gain. For some inexplicable reason they did not include ISO+/ISO- in the list of things you can assign custom buttons for, and as it is you must use the joystick to set ISO. You can set the Iris+/Iris- to buttons instead of joystick, but that's also fiddly. You also can't assign the four joystick directions and press to other buttons, which would let you simulate the joystick on buttons 1-6. So they want to get you used to having the side grip always on there even though they picture the camera without it on their own product page, perhaps to make it look less like a DSLR.

The Mag (#7) focus assist button is right next to the joystick like we enjoyed on all DSLRs prior to the 5D3 (which inexplicably banned its use). It works very nicely, allowing peaking and even monochrome focus assist while recording (without showing up even on the external recording). However, inexplicably, the zoom location can't be moved around in the frame like you can on the DSLRs. How hard would that have been? Since this wasn't on the C300 firmware either, my speculation is they explicitly banned it from the C100 firmware until the new C300 firmware is published, so as to not infuriate C300 owners.

Several buttons that I would use only rarely (e.g. Status and Custom Picture etc.) are for some reason not assignable. ??? You need a button to reassign to take stills, and you have to assign Headphone +/- to buttons or else be stuck menu diving. So why not allow all the buttons to be reassigned?

The internal mics on the top handle are quite poor. A Rode Stereo VideoMic Pro is highly recommended by me as an add-on, and as a further benefit, it can be plugged right into the Ninja, which will happily record 4 channel audio direct into the ProRes .MOV, using the 2 channel XLR preamps (with 48V or line options) or the 3.5mm jack on the camera body for the other two sources. The Rode is also smaller and lighter than the top handle if you want audio while staying minimal. the XLR preamps on the top handle are fine enough.

You can't monitor video waveform and audio record level at once, it's either or. I would like to have a view that is all waveform/scope and also offers the audio, and rely on the Ninja or external EVF for the image.

There are no odd frame rate settings or internal timelapse like on the C300. I guess they had to cut something.

The custom white balance setting is essential and will be in constant use, but for some reason they decided they want the whole frame to be white/gray to set it, rather than just a spot in the center of the frame like e.g. Sony uses. It can be hard to fill a frame with a neutral card with the right light, that would require a camera move or zoom that may be difficult. Please give us spot white balance customizing.

White balance indicators "A" and "A" are...uhm...a bit identically named for such different things, no? Why not use "1" and "2" instead of A and B for the custom settings.

Continuous Autofocus right now is on the pitiful level of the T4i, not even. But they say they are working on that. It's not a priority for most filmmakers, but if you're going to do it for your new STM line, please do it right.

Physical points of weakness for the hardware include the plastic door on the top handle, the tiny pins on the camera side of the EXT jack, and the plastic casing around the battery compartment. Otherwise (neglecting the common sensitive points like the sensor and LCD screen) it's very well designed and built and should last a long time.

Which I intend to use it for, the remainder of the 1080p era. It's a veritable footage shovel, with the great low-light, built-in NDs, integrated handles and ergonomics, not to mention the great quality and workflow the Ninja provides...I'm all set for 1080p24 capture. I would appreciate Canon's attention to these concerns which largely can be resolved in firmware updates, and for a professional product should be. Thank you.

hey guys, before i make the buy, does anybody have any expierience with the af of an old rebel with a 70-200 f4 is and a 1.4x converter? if it doesnt work, the ill just fork up the cash for the new tamron.

if i have to go for the tamron, what extender should i get, a kenko, or the tamron???

.
I hope someone here knows something about cheap P&S cameras.

I have a five-year-old niece. For our Thanksgiving dinner day, I gave her a Kodak disposable camera to take pictures. Once she stopped taking pictures of her finger, she did well. She actually took a couple of good pictures. So, I've been thinking about giving her a cheap digital P&S for Christmas, but I don't know much about those cameras.

Canon and Nikon seem to have comparable items around $79, but that's the extent of my "shopping."

Does anyone know how durable these things are -- would they hold up well in the hands of a young child? I do know Canon has a problem with zoom lens sticking in some of their low end cameras. That seems to be triggered by foreign objects getting between the lens segments. I know that won't work with a child.

Her mother is computer competent so she could upload for her so she can display.

Any thoughts? Thanks.

Some interesting photos in this list:

http://blogs.reuters.com/fullfocus/2012/11/30/best-photos-of-the-year-2012/#a=1

https://vimeo.com/54724624

I've never done a video before, but i figured with such a sweet camera i should try it. the video is of how we made our save the date envelopes.

I think I'm gonna leap to the 6D (from a T1i). I already have a 100 2.0 and 200 2.8 so I'm good for indoor sports. I'll likely eventually get a 100-400 for outdoor sports.
There's a good chance that the upcoming 35 1.4 II will be the "best" normal lens. Any recommendations on what to get in the mean-time (just for general all-around non-sports use)? Maybe something that would be a good value for now and/or something that'll coexist well with a 35 prime. 40 2.8, 17-40, 50 1.4 or 24-70 4.0 IS maybe?
Thanks for any suggestions.

Hey there everyone, new here, just checking out the site and asking around if any of you tested CF/SD and external gear like the Ninja etc with the Canon 5D mkiii

I just ordered mine from ebay in Hong Kong, http://cgi.ebay.fr/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110845014774&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

My first SLR btw, i have used a mkii and loved it, so now i am looking forward to my saved moneys worth and need to know what memory cards work fast, so far people online seem to suggest Lexar Professional 1000x cards and for external HD recording there are wifi options at 4:2:2 like this http://www.teradek.com/collections/cube and also direct like this http://cgi.ebay.fr/Blackmagic-Design-HyperDeck-Shuttle-SSD-Field-Recorder-/180692809706?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a122177ea

so please let me know anything, im also looking for a decent rig and already got this http://cgi.ebay.fr/New-DSLR-Rig-Shoulder-Mount-for-DV-Camera-Sony-Canon-550D-600D-60D-50D-1D-7D-5D-/221151420031?pt=UK_Tripods_Heads_Stablisers&hash=item337da6de7f yeah i know its BUTT UGLY, so im looking around at something with a matte box, fallow focus that i can put on my shoulder and tripod, possibly a cage, i like to get that cinema camera look for weddings.

hope to hear from you all soon

Ever since Pro-1 was announced, I've been waiting for a 17" version with a full arsenal of 12 Lucia EX ink cartridges to update my dye-based i9950. But the latest update is only printers 24" and up. So there's only the aging ipf5100 as far as I can tell.

Is there any hope we'll get a 17" update in the foreseeable future? I don't want to go with Epson since I print only intermittently, and have heard way too many horror stories about clogging.

Ihave an old Sony Speedlite I dug out of a camera bag I've had stores for over a decade.

It's a Sony HVL-F32X Nothing fancy by todays standards.
I purchased a Canon 7D and am still learning about it.
My shooting camera when I had my studio was a Nikon F4 .
That tells you how long I've been away from the art. Talk about a new learning curve.
I am wondering if the old speedlite will work until I can get one designed for the Canon 7D

I also have a Nikon Speedlight SB-28DX
Any idea where I can go to look up compatability?

So I've had my Canon 7D for the past 2 or 3 years, and I've been pretty happy with it for video.

The thing is, I want to upgrade my body to the next level: a full frame body.

Now that the 6D is out, I'm curious if it's worth the $1,000 price difference between the 6D and the 5D Mark 3.

The Mark 3 has some unique features like a headphone jack, 100% view finder coverage, etc.

I'm just not sure. I do have a budget though..

Hey guys,

Im just about to pull the trigger on a ST-E3-RT and 600EX-RT that iv been having a play with.. I tried very quickly to see if it was possible to trigger two 580exii while in slave mode and the 600EX-RT in slave while using the ST-E3-RT to fire the 600, I unfortunately couldnt get the 580's to fire... But if I put the 600 on camera it fired the two 580's with no problem.. Im not after full ETTL, more than happy just using it fully manual...

If anyone can shed a bit light on this subject it would be much appreciated..
Regards
Alex

Hello-


I have a new (to me) PC that was built by a friend that has 2x 128GB SSD drives in it. My old computer's drives were 500GB SATA II's, one for my OS/apps/photos and a second for purely photo backup. I'm running Win7.


My question is how should I setup my drives? My thoughts were to install Win7 on the first SSD and all my other apps like Lightroom and such on the second. Then use the mechanical SATA drives to put all my photos and such to work off of.


I'm open to suggestions. Thanks!

This is a shout out to all who have the canon 1DX and have the issues that are listed below-

For those that have the Canon 1DX, Have any of you seen the 'Caution 02" (Which is to warn about a suppsoed unexpected drop in battery power)? You'll find any system warnigns under the 1: 'System Status Display' choice in the 4'th section of the yellow wrench in the menu - If you haven't viewed these before, you'll need to click on the 'system status display' - then click info, then I beleive click info again when you select one of the warnigns cautions (If you have any listed there?)

I've searched the itnernet but there is VERY little info on this issue- I've contacted canon services via email- but haven';t hearde back yet, and they'll probably want me to send it in to them isntead of just explaining what the problem might be-

I have updated firmware to latest version- but hte problem existed even before the uopdate- I've only had abotu 4 of these 'caution 02' warnings

On another note- did anyoen notice an unusually filthy sensor filter when viewign photos of sky with small aperatures (abotu f16-22 or so?) My sensor filter was absolutely filthy on a suppsoedly brand new camera, (Which was bought from Amazon.com ltd liscenced which I can imagine anyone messign with the camera before selling it since amazon's reputation is on the line- it could happen i suppose, but it would seem unlikely- I read soemwhere that the canon 6d's are arrivign with, or get filthy sensor filter shortly after firing a few shots- soem thinking perhaps a lubricant is causing dirty sensors? The grunge and dust I saw ion soem moon shots at F22 in the sky was shocking! In 3 years of usign my canon 7d with many many lens changes i nthe field, I have never seen dust dirt and grime liek htis on my sensor- but this brand new 1DX was just absolutely filthy- soem of it was dust- and fell off with compressed air, but most of it is either lubricant or really stuck on dust- I suspect it's lubricant htough as it looks morel ike grime smears than dustr particles when viewed enlarged

Have a look at this fred miranda thread to see what I'm talking about in regards to the filthy sensor filter- we're not talking about just usualy dust here- as you'll see- My sensor filter is just as filthy as the one in the link, and others in photocamel who own the 1DX have shared that their sensor filters are also filthy when they bought it new or shortly after- the amount of spots and grunge is very unusually high. I've heard from several new 1DX owners that in their years of ownign and using cameras and changing lenses etc, they have never seen the amount of filth and grunge o ntheir sensors as they've seen o ntheir new 1DX's sensors- and that too has been my experience- there seems to be an issue with the 1DX's sensor filter or soem lubricant i nthe camera splattering all over trhe filter or something- If anyone here who owns the 1DX has these two issues (The warning/caution 02) and the dirty sensor filter despite camera being new, please post your experience here- thanks



http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1153198/0
..

Hi guys!

I know the EC-S focusing screen isn't firmware supported for the 1d X, however, I have tried changing the setting away from the standard screen, and the only lens that metered different was the 135 f2 L, and I've sold that.

Does this mean that I can use the EC-S with the 24 L, 35 L, 50 L and 85 L and NOT have a metering issue? Or does it all change when actually replacing the screen rather than just setting the camera to think it's there?

I would REALLY like to use the EC-S screen, but if the metering is off, no point in spending money on it.

Thanks!

Hi guys. Just like the title says, i'm going to be a future owner of my first SLR. Coming from a P&S background, I had the Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ18 for about 5yrs I think. I had no training whatsoever in taking pictures(taking indoor stuff/landscapes/nightscapes/people generally those who/things doesn't mind being taken a picture of. I'd love to start taking street photography though). And at often times I take videos with friends. With that said, I've decided to get a 60d for my first one.

I know this will not be new to everyone, but i'm really having a hard time choosing what lens should I start off with. I'm stuck in between the 18-135mm kit lens or 50mm f1.4 because their price difference is only about 100euros. 60d kit (18-135mm) = 1000euro. 60d body only + 50mm f1.4 = 1100euro

Questions, 1) image quality wise, which of the two excel? 2) which would be better in low light or bright light? 3) Will I be missing out on the reach of the 18-135mm (close-ups/ tele) IF I do decide to get the 50mm f1.4?

Any input would be highly appreciated. THANKS!

Christmas is coming up and I'm looking into buying myself a new lens for my camera. I'm not sure whether or not to buy a better lens than my kit lens or to buy a new lens that will give me a wider range of focal lengths to shoot at. The lenses I'm considering for my 60d are:

Canon 10-22 (I used to have a Tamron 10-24 when I shot nikon but sold it to fund my switch to canon. I miss having such a wide-angle lens now)
Canon 17-40 L (I have an 18-55 IS II and really don't like the IQ of it. I feel like this is a decent decision as it will work well as a standard zoom on my 60d and will be a decent wide-angle if I ever switch to full frame)
Canon 24-105 L (This is a bit of a stretch but if the IQ is much better than the 17-40 then I would prefer it despite the limited focal length on the wide end)

I don't know whether or not I should replace my 18-55 with an L series lens of some kind or just keep it and buy a 10-22 which will expand the focal range I can shoot with. The other lenses I have are the 28mm f/2.8, the 50mm f/1.8 and the 70-200 f/4 L non-IS.

I recently got a deal on 5D3 and bought one. Coming from a 60D this is has been a huge jump for me. I am no professional and consider myself a hobbyist. The only paid work I can think of is that from time to time some photos I have in flickr get noticed by Getty Images and are offered for sale on their site.

Anyways, I love the 5D3 and it is just freakin fun to shoot with. Coming from a 60D, i was used to the focus recompose method but loving the 61 points on the 5D3 to play with. Having said that, at times I felt the 5D3 is probably an overkill for someone like me. Perhaps a 5D2 made sense cost wise. That way I could get myself a 70-200 f2.8 IS (version 1 or 2) from Canon or the new one from Tamron (after some reviews are out).

I still have the 60D as my wife uses that body, and we share lenses. Right now I have a 24-70L, 50mm 1.8, (selling the Tokina 11-16). If I keep the 5D3, I plan to eventually get the 16-35 II or one of the 70-200 but that may take sometime to save up. Question is, should i stick with 5d3 or go with the 5d+another L lens route? Its a question probably I will know the answer to but I guess I am looking to find out how others would have dealt with the situation.

Note: Do I need the second L lens right now? Well, if 60D has the 24-70 on it and is used by my wife, I will be using and needing a body for myself and a 2nd lens. I dont use 50mm at all, but we swap lenses when required.

Hello everyone,

I'm still new to photography and started with Canon EOS T2i. I rented Canon EOS 5D Mark II for a recent trip I made to Florida. This is the first time I used a FF camera and I can say that it blew my mind away with its image quality. I took 5D2, 24-105L and Canon 50mm f/1.4 with me. Most of the time this combo gave me stunning pictures however camera failed to expose correctly in low light conditions. I was using Aperture priority mode for more than 75% of the time with center focus point. ISO was in auto.

For example look at the following pictures, first one is f/1.4, 1/50s ISO 500 and second one is f/1.4, 1/50s ISO 2500. Both with center focus point and spot metering (tried with other metering options as well but results were same). First photo is little underexposed but second photo is over exposed. Can any please explain me why camera decide to choose two different ISO settings for shots taken in almost same environment. I still get confused with metering modes, if possible please explain that too.

f/1.4 1/50s and ISO500


f/1.4 1/50s and ISO2500


PS: I recently started shooting in RAW so I was able to fix the exposure and white balance on these photos.
PS 2: I'm sorry if I'm posting this thread in wrong section as I wasn't sure where to post it.