I just finished reading through McNally's book (Hot Shoe Diaries), again, and it is awesome. Even better the second time through. Tons of great lighting advice in there. I highly recommend it.
This one: http://amzn.to/K6eAQZ

McNally has a real down to earth style about how he sets up his scenes and just makes it work, very very well, with what he has - which is small light in this book.


Great stuff, especially with the new 600EX-RT (http://amzn.to/I616Ey) out.


-MS

Here's my gear:

5DIII with battery grip (grip is pre-ordered)
40D
70-200 2.8II
24-70 2.8
50 1.4
Speedlite 580EXII


I've outgrown my current bag and I'm looking to upgrade and I've come to the wise people on CR for some guidance. I think I'll leave my 40D at home and I'd like to find a bag that could carry the rest while still having maybe a little more space to add another lens or flash eventually. Have you guys found that cameras with battery grips can fit into bags or do most of them require you to disconnect the unit from the body? For me it'd be a deal breaker if I couldn't insert my camera with the battery grip and 24-70 attached. I also have a 17" Mac Book Pro which I may or may not carry with me. If the bag didn't have a slot for this it really wouldn't affect me either way.

I'm digging the butterfly design of the Kiboko 22L because I could arrange the pockets in a way that would allow me to store the 5D3 with the 24-70 snug on one side and have the other side available when I want to store it with the 70-200. But looking at the pictures its kinda hard to tell if the Kiboko 22L would allow those setups with the grip attached.

Any suggestions or experiences would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks,
Omid

heres my custom DIY rev head, will post a How to do it soon





and the video

https://vimeo.com/42941198

I ran across this lens for sale and was curious wether or not anybody had used or is using it?
i didn't even know Tonkina made primes.
If anyone can tell me about it i'd be grateful

I've been scanning the manual...and I can't seem to find how to do this on my 5D Mark III.

I have it set to auto rotate the cards.

I was in the middle of filming, and I guess the CF card filled up....It stopped filming. I hit start again..and it started up, but guessing the SD card isn't fast enough...it would stop periodically.

Anyway, just wanted to go back and look at the video on the first CF card....to see where it cut off.

The displays show it sending to card #2, the SD card, I hit the play button, and it only shows me the one video on the SD card...I cannot find in the instruction book how to switch back to play on the CF card that is full.

Any suggestions?

TIA,

cayenne

If you started from scratch again, lets say theft or storm, all your equipment was lost.

What lenses and cameras would you re-purchase first and others later? Would you take this opportunity to switch to nikon?

Im positive when we started in photography, we were ignorant on some topics, but now with experience how would you react to a total loss and re-build you system from scratch?

I'd probably start again with this basic setup.

Canon 5D Classic

100mm f/2

50mm F/1.4

28mm F/1.8

Under 2000$ and I could do 90% of all my work with that system.

Ok, first of all I prefer shooting thru viewfinder, but I am trying to learn the camera functions. When I slide the movie/camera button to the right and press Start/Stop, it goes to live view on the LCD screen. I press shutter and can hear it taking a picture, but the LCD just goes back to LiveVIew mode, no picture is displayed at all and the countdown on my remaining pics stays unchanged, when I go in to play mode, the pics are not there. Am I doing something wrong or have set some function incorrectly? I have tried in A mode and shutter priority mode, same results.

Thanks all,

Hello!

Came over two used 580EX (generation one) for about $200 apiece on a second hand site in Sweden (were I live and where that is pretty cheap)
Was planing of having two extra flashes at portraits.

BUT... one doesn't start.
Suspect that I will not be able to return it for cash ...

Advice or tips on what it might be or how to fix it.

Best regards
/Thure

Or do they have sticky prices?

Kicking around getting a 1DX and wondering if it would be better to wait for a possible price drop. I mean after the camera is finally available to us mortals (say early next year)

here is the link http://youtu.be/XuY6wxipUW4 Im pretty happy with the result!

harvey agustin
blendedimagery.net

Canon updated the sales start dates for the EF 24-70mm F2.8L II USM lens to early-July, but when do you think it will be available?

I was taking two pictures with my 7D with 100mm 2.8 L Macro with the only difference the first being in RAW and the second in MRAW.

I was shocked to see the RAW with purple fringing on the wood and the MRAW without.

Is MRAW apart from resolution so much better with colors and fringing?

hi guys! After holding out for the latest generation, then realising i would rather get some good lenses I finally got my first dslr (5d mkii) on saturday morning and went to a festival a few hours later to try it out. I only had a 50mm 1.8 because i had read that was a good lens to start with for low light and because its inexpensive id be less worried about it. I went to four stages and got really good shots on two stages, the other two i had problems with and would like advice.

1. This stage was in a basement and had just one purple light on the singer. Couldnt believe how dark it was. With aperature at 1.8, shutter at about 125 and iso at about 3200 the camera was still saying underexposed. Had i have had a flash i would have been fine. But i didnt think they would be allowed plus i dont own one yet. So other than buying a flash and learning is there any tips for extreme situations like this?

2. This stage was big and i wasnt very close i had been at every other stage. The lighting kept changing every 30 seconds! So i was stuggling to keep up changing my iso settings etc. One minuite the stage was flooded with dark red lights which forced me to use high ISO settings, then a bright strobe would come on which meant i could either change my ISO or increase shutter speed. I wanted to change ISO so i could have a chance at cropping with less noise seems i was a bit far away. I was also trying to avoid lots of beer being thrown and crowd surfers (this was a heavy metal band!) I ended up keeping my settings for the bright white strobes and waiting for changes to take photos then. I felt like every photo i took with deep red or purple lights looked very boring.


One thing i had noticed on the day was that i changed to spot metering almost straight away becuase it was the only time i could get sensible results. Should i have done this?

Will experience just allow me to judge when to wait for the lighting to change rather than trying to compensate every time it chaged?

I found f1.8 really useful and could imagine stuggling at f2.8. should i just get some more primes or are zoom lenses at f2.8 usuble in extreme conditions? I want something shorter and something longer. (i have about 1.5K to 2K to spend on lenses) Recommend please.

Im pretty sure rock and pop gigs would have more standard and better lighting, this was metal / hardcore and the lighting was just crazy how much it was changing and how dark it was! Also is flash aloud at most gigs? Or should i just take one everytime anyways and put it away if im not allowed it?

All in all i think i got a few good shots of each band but i still need to upload them onto my PC. I was supposed to have a press pass to get into the pit with my guest list spot but that didnt work out. Im sure had i have had this some aspects would have been easier.

Sorry for the essay, thanks for reading!

Well, I just completed my first year of college. I had to put down my photo stuff for about 3 months to concentrate on school. BUT, I'm ready to start shooting again.

So, as a "good-job-on-not-dying-after-your-first-year-in-college" present, my family is letting get any lens. As long as it's around $1000-1200.

This is the criteria:
1. Great IQ
2. Covers a good range (wide angle-telephoto range).
3. Works well with a crop camera *Canon T1i*

I've been eying the Canon 24-105mm f/4L lens but I don't want to just get one lens.
And I don't plan on upgrading to full frame in the future.
(I do plan on upgrading to a 7d in the near future though).

This is the combo that has caught my eye though.
- Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8 with a Tamron 70-200mm f/2.8 Macro

I'd to hear some other options I should consider from anyone

In this article below, Eduardo Angel covers how to connect the PIXMA Pro-1 Printer to an Apple MacBook Pro by using an Apple Airport Extreme Router as well as a PC laptop to the printer.

http://learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2012/pixma_pro1_network_setup.shtm



Also, here is another article that covers in detail all the steps you need to follow, from opening the box to making your first print.
http://learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2012/pixma_pro1_setup.shtml]
[url]http://learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2012/pixma_pro1_setup.shtml[/url]

I love Twitter
XO Skins ‏@xoskins

How about a 40% Off Memorial day coupon? Use the code 40mdoff2012 for 40% Off any XO Skin! Be sure to share this...

Grabbed a screen for my wifes 300hs and an Aqua Dry Bag http://xoskins.com/aqua-dry-bag/aqua-dry-bag-phone-size just in case

There are plenty of topics discussing the 70-300L, but they are from the pre-5DmkIII era. I've been thinking of getting a nice tele lens to complement my kit 24-105 f/4, and I cannot find a single reason not to choose the 70-300L. It will be a lens that is going to be used during in field action during walks, political meetings, etc, so hauling the 70-200 f/2.8 mk II around is going to be tiresome, and it is widely regarded that 70-300's IQ is similar to that of the 70-200 f/4 IS, while still having 100mm extra.

Since 5DmkIII is here and slower aperture problems might be overcome with higher ISO numbers, is there a reason not to choose the 70-300L? Thank you.

I've read the manual (really), have a couple of d60 books, and yet I haven't been able to figure out AEB on the D60.

I am coming from a g11, and with that, AEB was a snap.

I'd appreciate it if someone could detail the steps necessary to set-up AEB for +1/-1 and one press of the shutter

Thanks

Just ordered my 5D mk3 plus 24-105mm and wanting either a 17-40mm or maybe the 16-35mm if my piggybank can stand it. I know the 17-40mm has more CA and distortion but wondered how well images can be cleaned up using the Lens Optimiser part of DPP - any comments?

Thanks for any opinions,

Guy.

I called Canon yesterday and they told me they would take my MK3 into the Irvine CA Service Center and apply the "Light Leak Counter Measures" on my body and they sent me a pre-paid UPS label.

They didn't bother to email me as they had promised, so I guess if you want your body officially "fixed" call Canon and send it in.
I think I'll get my 50mm F/1.2 mirror adjusted at the same time.

ET

hi all.

long time reader, but i'm new to posting, so please forgive me if i'm off a bit on etiquette.

i'm rebuilding my glass kit more or less from scratch. i need what i'd consider to be a mid-range zoom, and i'm considering both the 24-70 f/2.8L mk I or 24-105 f/4L (i've pretty much convinced myself that i can't afford the 24-70 mk II given all the rebuilding i need to do across the board).

looking for thoughts on which lens you all prefer and might suggest. or also thoughts on alternatives.

i shoot with both full frame and crop bodies. i don't consider myself a professional, though i do sell prints, but most of the prints i sell are derived from studio work, and neither of these lenses would come into play.

i suppose i'm looking for a good, general walkabout lens. i'm not concerned about weight. and i'm not really concerned about the extra reach between the two. i'm really more concerned about quality of image.

very general, i know, but any thoughts would be appreciated.

thanks much, for thoughts on this topic and for everything i've learned from all of you in the past. looking forward to contributing more directly in the future

Pls recommend a suitable lens for landscape photography. Money is not an obstacle.

Hi!

I've been reading a lot on landscape photography on different forums, watched youtube-videos, read magazines and so on. What I've seen is that some use Multi exposure - shooting to ensure that details in shadows aswell as in skies are obtained. Some even turn them into HDR (with different styles).

The thing is that I've also seen lots of videos and articles that use advanced filters like the LEE Filters to obtain similiar result.

What are your opinions about the two different methods to take great landscape photos?
I guess that a polariser cant be done with multi exposures or in post processing, but the graduated ND-filters etc could be achieved?

What makes it worth the 500 euro to obtain the LEE filterholder, NDfilters, polariser etc.. vs just using multiple exposures instead?

Best regards!
Fredrik

I just thought I'd see what everyone wanted to see replaced most in Canon's lineup. Feel free to post your top requests for lenses that need replacement. I'll start:

Rank - Lens Name - What Needs Fixing

#1 - 50mm 1.2L - sharpness, CA (even at the the cost of aperture speed in my oppinion)
#2 - 50mm 1.4 - sharpness, Modern USM (Badly needs updating, Nikon's is far ahead)
#3 - 35mm 1.4 L - sharpness, CA (very badly needs updating, 14 year old design, Nikon's is much much better)
#4 - 135mm f/2.0 L - aperture, image stabilization (16 year old design, there are plenty of 135mm f/1.8 lenses around, would love to see f/1.8 + IS, like a mini 200mm f/2.0 IS)
#5 - 16-35mm f/2.8 II L - sharpness, CA - (it's a good lens but Nikon's 14-24mm gives it a run for it's money)

Feel free to list your own top 5

I have seen on a few photog forums the sad story about cameras getting lost. Now, not to get you all worried, But I was just thinking!!! Why not allow a user to put a security code (like a pin no with a phone etc) into the body of your camera so unless you know the pin you cannot use the camera. With a bit more thought, the pin could be matched to your lenses so if you lose a lens, then unless it is unlocked with the pin then that too is of no use to the nasty person who relieved you of your gear.

What say others? Can we get Canon (and probably other manufacturers) to do such a thing?

Rgds, Mark 8)