• Locked
Trying to justify purchasing a 200mm f2.0

Hey guy, I'm Thinking about buying the 200mm f2, I love the 200mm on my 70-200 2.8 is ii, but I don't know if the 200 f2 will make things all that better.
My 70-200 is my dedicated sports lens, but I want to use the 200 for low ligh sports, and a medium telephoto for some portraits as well as some other things, 200 is my decided range.
I just want to hear your opinions on wether or not the purchase would be worth it over the 70-200, an also, has anybody used it with TCs, because I know they make nice 400mm f4's and okay ~300mm 2.8's

  • Locked
Wide Angle on a Budget

I have a need for a wide angle lens for my 7d. Preferably something fast, 2.8 or better.

I had a 24-70mm f/2.8L I, as well as a 17-35mm f/2.8L (yes, 17-not 16). I sold both because I didn't use them, and picked up a 50mm f/1.2L to upgrade my f/1.4 for portraits.

I would like to use this lens for indoor candid uses primarily, hence f/2.8 or faster. I have a budget of ~$600, but I am in no rush to spend that much. I don't do a lot of landscape, but occasionally I will dabble in it, as well as the sporadic attempts at astrophotography (too much light pollution where I am). I like to shoot wildlife (on a budget), so I have no desire to go ff at the moment, so I wouldn't be buying a lens with that in mind.

I wasn't a huge fan of the 17-35mm because it just wasn't all that good on my 7d. I didn't get anything calibrated, and didn't do any AFMA, so maybe having a better copy would have been fine, but I couldn't justify it at the time.

I have considered the 28mm f/1.8, but I'm not sure if that would be the best idea for me.

Thoughts?

  • Locked
650-1300 T-mount lens

Has anyone tried the Vivitar/Bower/Rokinon/Samyang 650-1300 T-mount lenses, and if so, what do you think of them?

And yes, I realize that a $250 lens at F16 will be "somewhat inferior" to a $10,000 Canon Prime.... and yes, I realize that handholding a 1300mm F16 lens with no image stabilization is "less than ideal". My expectations are low, but it would be nice to hear from those who have gone before.

  • Locked
Tamron 70-200 f/2.8 Di VC USD Hands-On

HTML:
<div name="googleone_share_1" style="position:relative;z-index:5;float: right; /*margin: 70px 0 0 0;*/ top:70px; right:120px; width:0;"><g:plusone size="tall" count="1" href="http://www.canonrumors.com/2012/11/tamron-70-200-f2-8-di-vc-usd-hands-on/"></g:plusone></div><div style="float: right; margin:0 0 70px 70px;"><a href="https://twitter.com/share" class="twitter-share-button" data-count="vertical" data-url="http://www.canonrumors.com/2012/11/tamron-70-200-f2-8-di-vc-usd-hands-on/">Tweet</a></div>
<p><strong>The new Tamron 70-200!

</strong>A lot of people have been eager to hear and see how good the new <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/892851-REG/Tamron_20_200mm_F_2_8_DI_VC.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">Tamron 70-200 f/2.8 VC</a> lens is. Coming in at a mere $1499 compared to <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/680103-USA/Canon_2751B002_EF_70_200mm_f_2_8L_IS.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">$2099 for the Canon version</a>, it has a chance to sell well for Tamron if it can at least be close to the highly regarded Canon.</p>
<p>Photo News had a chance to play with one and have come away pretty positive about the Tamron. There are lots of pictures and thoughts about build, the AF and optical performance of the lens.</p>
<p><strong>From Photo News</strong></p>
<blockquote><p>The Tamron 70-200mm F/2.8 Di VC USD brings Tamron’s legendary optical performance into the 21st century with the addition of USD and VC. The autofocus is fast with the addition of USD, the VC is effective , and the image quality is what we’re used to from this legend. Tamron has fixed a few quirks of the older version and we’d feel comfortable taking this lens on any job or just a walk in the park. The deciding factor for this lens will be the price point.</p></blockquote>
<p>The Tamron 70-200 f/2.8 Di VC USD is due to start shipping on November 30, 2012.</p>
<p><strong><a href="http://www.photonews.ca/?p=5849" target="_blank">Read the entire review</a></strong></p>
<p><strong>Tamron 70-200 f/2.8 Di VC USD $1499 at <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/892851-REG/Tamron_20_200mm_F_2_8_DI_VC.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">B&H Photo</a> | <a href="http://www.adorama.com/TM70200VEOS.html?kbid=64393" target="_blank">Adorama</a> | <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A34GQEC/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00A34GQEC&linkCode=as2&tag=canorumo-20" target="_blank">Amazon</a></strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

  • Locked
Use a Canadian or USA Canon Dealer?

Hello everyone,

I am going to pre-order a 6D. However, I don't know whether to order it locally or through B&H, Amazon, or other US dealer.

Speed in arrival is my key concern. Do Canadian stores usually receive cameras the same day as a company like B&H?

I understand Canon's no shipping to Canada policy, but I have a USA forwarding address I'm thinking of using. I have Amazon Prime shipping to this address as well.

In your previous experience, would I get it faster if I ordered from a USA store, or a Canadian store?

  • Locked
Canon 5D Mk III and Zeiss Lenses

Hello,

Here's what I have:

Canon 5D Mk III
Zeiss 21mm f/2.8
Zeiss 50mm f/2.0

Purposes:

Ultimately want to shoot video and will use this system when I return to film school in 2015. But until then I decided to invest in Zeiss manual focus primes for their superior optical quality and manual focus. For both photography and video it'll force me to be very deliberate and thoughtful about my shots, framing and composition, etc. which will be tough but great training for developing a filmmaker's eye and knowing the capabilities of my tools.

Question(s):

What other Zeiss prime lens focal lengths are essential to have to cover the cinematic spectrum so to speak?

I'm even open to non-Zeiss lenses but prefer to stick with Zeiss in order to hopefully maintain similar image characteristics and IQ across the different lenses. (The Zeiss Compact Primes are out of my budget) I have been hearing the Zeiss 100mm f/2 is also a key piece of glass to own. What about the 35mm focal length? Is the Zeiss 35mm f/1.4 the best option at that focal length? Do I even need 35mm?? Don't really see myself owning anything wider than the 21mm as I dislike distortion and don't care for its use in narrative filmmaking(personal tastes).

One other thing to consider is that I plan to really explore night-time and twilight photography/video. Maybe even starfield long-exposure photos.

Thanks in advance for your help. The combined knowledge and creativity on this board is priceless.

  • Locked
What UV filter for new 70-200mm (77mm filter size)?

Hi all,

What recommendations for a UV filter for my new canon 70-200mm f2.8 IS II USM lens coming friday?

Would one of the Hoya filters do ok? That's what I've put on most of my other lenses?

Would this suffice?

http://www.amazon.com/Hoya-Digital-Frame-Multi-Coated-Filter/dp/B002L60TTI/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1354133877&sr=1-3&keywords=hoya+77mm+uv+filter

I see another Hoya one...that is about $60...and a B&W that is about $60-$70....what do the more pricier ones have that the one I linked to do not?

I don't mind dropping money where it is well spent, in some things you get what you pay for, but some times, you just waste money if you don't look at things carefully...

Thanks in advance,

cayenne

  • Locked
5D3 continuous shooting speed

Hello!

I have a kind of problem connected with continuous shooting mode speed in my 5d3.

When the battery level is over 50%, everything seems to be OK, so 6 fps.
But the problem starts, when it goes under 50%, so beginning from 49%. Then the shooting speed reduces to 3 fps without a reason.

I should add, that I'm working without battery grip, and the CF card is not the problem, because it's fast and, what is more, the shooting speed would probably reduce also over 50% of battery, if the problem is connected with memory card.

My 5d3 is not the only one that slows down under 50%, my friends 5d3 also behaves the same way. He bought the camera at the same time as I, in the same store, so our SNs are simillar. It's very annoying, especially when shooting sports, so we often change the battery for another one, when it goes under 50%...

Does anybody have the same problem with 5d3?

Thanks.

  • Locked
tilt-shift question

I am looking to purchase either the TS-E 17mm or the TS-E 24mm.

I'm greatly leaning towards the 24mm. First, I already have the 14mm L II for when I need something super wide. Second, I also like the idea of being able to use filters without having to buy into a Corkin or Lee system.

Can anyone with experiences with these two lenses give me any feedback or suggestions?

Thank you in advance!

  • Locked
Birds in flight, advice wanted

I took my new 5D3 out over Thanksgiving weekend to try my hand at birds in flight with decidedly mixed results.

Having never attempted this before and having done no research, I did my best to find the optimum mix of ISO to shutter speed to aperture to AF traits with my EF 35-350 (no IS) mounted to a purposefully loose tripod head.

I chose AI Servo, Case #3, focus first, center zone. I found that in the early morning/late evening light an ISO of 800-6400 was required, but 3200 and above seemed awfully noisy. My slow lens begged to be shot wide open at f/5.6. And I was surprised that I was unable to stop the action (mostly gliding sandhill cranes, but some excitable geese/ducks, as well) with anything slower than 1/4000 of a second.

I'll attach one of my better shots from early morning. f/5.6, 1/4000, ISO 800, 350mm, tripod

Can anyone offer some general rules of thumb for setting up to shoot birds and birds in flight, especially with the 5D3? 1/4000 seems awfully fast, requiring a high ISO and wide aperture. When comparing my newby results to the many amazing BIF shots on this and similar forums, I realize that I have A LOT to learn. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.

Attachments

  • sandhill_crane.jpg
    sandhill_crane.jpg
    387.1 KB · Views: 1,745

  • Locked
The First Canon EOS 6D Video Footage

HTML:
<div name="googleone_share_1" style="position:relative;z-index:5;float: right; /*margin: 70px 0 0 0;*/ top:70px; right:120px; width:0;"><g:plusone size="tall" count="1" href="http://www.canonrumors.com/?p=12084"></g:plusone></div><div style="float: right; margin:0 0 70px 70px;"><a href="https://twitter.com/share" class="twitter-share-button" data-count="vertical" data-url="http://www.canonrumors.com/?p=12084">Tweet</a></div>
<strong>From a Preproduction Camera


</strong>The first video footage from Johnnie Behiri from the soon to be available worldwide Canon EOS 6D. It’s noted that this is from a preproduction camera and improvements may be seen with the released camera.</p>
<p><strong>Strengths and weaknesses noticed by Mr Behiri.</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Camera strengths:</li>
<li>Full frame sensor</li>
<li>Clean high ISO in video mode (1250 is very mush usable).</li>
<li>Manual audio adjusting</li>
<li>PAL/NTSC</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Camera weakness:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Severe moire</li>
<li>Soft image</li>
<li>No headphone socket</li>
<li>No audio through HDMI while recording (for monitoring audio on new EVF’s)</li>
<li>No clean HDMI output</li>
</ul>
<div>Checkout the footage yourself and see what you think.</div>
<p><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/54352877" width="500" height="281" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen></iframe></p>
<p><strong>Source: [<a href="http://blog.planet5d.com/2012/11/watch-the-first-canon-eos-6d-beta-footage-out-in-the-wild/" target="_blank">P5D</a>] via [<a href="http://vimeo.com/54352877" target="_blank">JB</a>]</strong></p>
<p><strong>Preorder the Canon EOS 6D

</strong>Amazon: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009B0MZ8U/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B009B0MZ8U&linkCode=as2&tag=canorumo-20" target="_blank">Body $2099</a> | <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009B0MZG2/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B009B0MZG2&linkCode=as2&tag=canorumo-20" target="_blank">Kit $2899</a> | B&H Photo: <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/892349-REG/Canon_8035b002_EOS_6D_Digital_Camera.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">Body $2099</a> | <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/892354-REG/Canon_8035b009_EOS_6D_Digital_Camera.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">Kit $2899</a> | Adorama: <a href="http://www.adorama.com/ICA6D.html?kbid=64393" target="_blank">Body $2099</a> | <a href="http://www.adorama.com/ICA6DK.html?kbid=64393" target="_blank">Kit $2899</a></p>
<p>The camera is available in some parts of the world already, with worldwide availability being in the next 7 to 10 days.</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

  • Locked
Visualising focal length perception.

I hope the title of this thread isn't misleading. I only use primes, I dont know why, I just like them. Im trying to understand how focal perception effects photos.

For shooting small groups, and if space wasn't an issue, is the best reason to use the widest lens possible before distortion factors show up, because it gives the most sense of depth to the photo?

Imagine the worlds best telephoto lens, that would allow me to photograph a group of 6 people or so from the other end of a football pitch and crop in, still retaining amazing sharpenss. It would still look weird because everything would look so compressed and there would be no depth to the photo right? Or would this scenario infact depend upon how close they were stood to a backround.

Is this a suitable way to visualise this focal length perception or am I missing something? What would you suggest to be the longest focal length to be used for group photos, space permitting?

  • Locked
EOS 6D in Stock at Digital Rev?

Is this serious?
http://www.digitalrev.com/

They say "In Stock, NOT Pre Order", but B&H says it's expected to be available on Dec. 10th.

Price also seems to have gone up (2797 CAD - basically the same as USD).

This is my first post here on CR, but I'm pretty excited about this news and had no one to share it with :P

Edit: Just realized the 2100$ originally announced price will probably be for the 6D (n) mentioned in the user manuals, which doesn't have wi-fi nor GPS. What do you guys think? Not sure why people would go with 6D rather than 5Dii if it doesn't have the extra gadgets if it's indeed 2100$.

  • Locked
24-70 versus 24-105 AF performance

I've got a 24-70 f/2.8L (original version) and I've been thinking about a 'cross-grade' to a 24-105 f/4L. With a crop I used to use it a lot for portraits but since moving to FF (now own a 5D3) I normally use a 70-200 for that and 24-70 only gets used at f/4 or above most of the time anyway and often for things where IS would be a benefit. I use a 50mm if I want something faster.

Anyway I know a f/4 lens will technically focus slower in low light than a f/2.8 but just wondered from someone who's used both how low light AF between the two compares? I thought maybe despite f/4 the 24-105 may have a more modern / faster AF drive so maybe not too much of a difference in practice?

  • Locked
Unable to AFMA 70-200mm 2.8 is II

So i am so excited that i finally got this lens. Sad part is no matter what i do i cannot get it into focus. It always seems to be just a bit off. On closer inspection i noticed i had it at +20 the highest AFMA available and it cannot get accurate focus. It is just a slight bit front focused. I feel like for a 2500 lens I would want it to be acurate. As i am typing this i am wondering if its on when its at 70. The sample images are all cropped and shot at 200. Should i send it and the camera to canon? I have acquired what i consider to be a set of bodies and lenses i am content with(minus 5d mark iii) and i have heard you can send all you equipment to canon and have it all calibrated to each other. If so what does it cost? Or am i being to picky?

Attachments

  • focus 70-200-1.jpg
    focus 70-200-1.jpg
    595.2 KB · Views: 906
  • focus 70-200-2.jpg
    focus 70-200-2.jpg
    907 KB · Views: 856
  • focus 70-200-3.jpg
    focus 70-200-3.jpg
    724.1 KB · Views: 775

  • Locked
Canon Warranty on Unauthorized Dealers and/or Grey Market

I saw this on another forum...

CPW started a poll to see if unauthorized dealer items are eligible for warranty. Also to see if grey market items are eligible for warranty. Canon "says" one thing in their policies but what they actually do might be different.

Poll: http://www.canonpricewatch.com/warranty-poll/

So if you've tried to get warranty service on an unauthorized dealer item, please report your experience on the poll. And then we'll all know whether or not they honor warranty on unauthorized or not.

Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG HSM

this way i'll have some incentive to actually do it. (now that started a thread)

my sigma arrived today. first thoughts, it's heavy and seems very well made. hood snaps in place in a very nice positive manner. The focus ring has a short throw, and a just very so slightly scratchy quality. but my wrists might be more fine tuned than others ;D The focus ring also has a fair bit of damping, it's not going anywhere by accident. I'm impressed so far. I'm not reviewer, and i don't do much in the way of my own little tests, but i'll breakout the tripod and get something up. whatever i do, i guess i'll do the same with my 24-105 and 16-35 just for kicks.
anyway, i hope to get this up shortly.

  • Locked
With my 5D MK III is an f/2.8 lens really needed???

Hi All,

I've been mulling over this since I bought the 70-200mm f/2.8 IS II this past weekend. Not sure if its buyers remorse or rookie mistake in not realizing the capabilities of my new 5d MK III.

I currently use a 5d MK III and while using my 24-105L f/4 i noticed that I can easily shoot dimly lit indoor scene (church wedding, night indoor events, etc.) just by bumping up the ISO to 8000-10000 and the images look very good still! I have not notice any drastic increases in noise and even so I can get it out using software. Now I have not tried printing these shots yet BUT even in 100% crop the images looks good.

Is there any merit to this line of thinking that f/4 lenses are good enough to use for dimly lit scnese using the 5d MK III? Should i exchange the 70-200mm 2.8 IS II with the 70-200 f/4 IS and save the $900 difference and apply that to a 16-35 MK II or the 35 L? Your opinions/experience would be great on this! thanks in advance!

  • Locked
standard zoom upgrade

Hello guys,

in spring I bought 60D with 15-85 and I was pretty happy about it. Based on reviews and shots it should have been very good lens and it really is. When my 100L was delivered this september I instantly realized I like images from my 100L much more.
Basically now the situation is, that my 15-85 is stuck in bag until I really want to take wide shots like landscapes or there is no working distance. Also there are much less keepers from 15-85 then from 100L.

Should I consider selling 15-85 and upgrading to 24-70mkII or 24-105? Is it worth for 60D? I like to shot wide open so f/2.8 would be advantage for me, but €2k+ pricetag is something what make you think. Standard zoom is very useful lens to have for general shooting. In the future I would like to move to FF so please consider this too. Somewhere back in my mind there is also idea of buying 50L (based on posts here) and maybe later add some wide and fast prime.
So guys, what are your thoughts?
Thanks

  • Locked
Best/Quickest way to move AF points around when shooting? (vs Focus/Recompose)

Hi all,

I've been wanting to try to be able to quickly set my focus points where I need them while handholding, looking through the viewfinder....and shooting.

I saw a guy on CreativeLive that shoots weddings, and he says he does this quite a lot, rather than try to focus and recompose...

I think I'd like to do that too...but man...I just can't seem to get it to work well for me...as that every time I have to push the 3rd from the right of the 3 buttons top right of the back of the camera to activate the AF point changing...and then with my thumb...move the joy stick around to move the focus around.

Is there a way to fix the camera so that all you have to do, is move the joy stick and not have to hit that button first every time? I could do this if I didn't have to click that button THEN move the joy stick for every shot.....

I've not found a way around this....anyone have a suggestion or setting I may have missed?

Does anyone else do this...or do most people try to focus then recompose...click the button down halfway to focus, move over...then finish clicking all the way down to trip the shutter?

I'd heard some people don't like to focus and recompose, since with the spherical nature of the lens...that focus and recompose can sometimes lead to soft images...?

Thoughts? Suggestions? How do you do it?
I'm talking single shot at this point...no AF servo.......

Thanks in advance,

cayenne

Filter

Forum statistics

Threads
37,424
Messages
973,056
Members
24,781
Latest member
098uchinanchu

Gallery statistics

Categories
1
Albums
29
Uploaded media
372
Embedded media
1
Comments
25
Disk usage
1 GB