Anybody hearing anything about an actual release date for the GP-E2? I've had one on order at B&H for some time knowing that it was projected to release end of April but since we're now there, I'm kind of wondering if it too is being delayed like so many other things. I know the firmware update to use it on the 7D isn't yet available but hoped that since we now have the update for the 5D3 it might show up soon.

Leave the 5D Mk III, take the 5D Mk II...


Should I save $1,300, go with the MK2 and use the monies for glass?

1. I have read in many forums that Canon users contradict each other in MK3's sharpness/softness (both video and picture).

2. Some including FM founder will stick to their MK2.

3. The builtin HDR function and improved autofocus, video functions, and ergonomic features of MK3 are important to me.

4. Raw quality: is there a noticeable difference?

5. The ease of mind to use any Canon lens I choose (incl. 200/f2.0) is very appealing.

Please let me know what you think. Should i be considering other aspects or issues relating to these two excellent cameras? I thank forum members in advance for their Canon advice (and experience) on my decision as to the 5D to purchase and the 5D to leave at the store.

So I'm trying to round out a good artillery of lens for all around use. I have the 16-35 2.8 ii and I am about to purchase the 50mm 1.2L and 70-200 2.8 is ii with the lens rebate. Does everyone think that's an all around good set of three lens? I shoot a lot of video and all around general photo

In regards to the rebate offer that begins today on Canon lenses... Does anyone know if you get the "double up" bonus to the rebate if you bought a 5D Mk III a month ago? Sometimes programs cover that kind of situation. Having trouble finding information about the "double up" bonus anywhere but here, actually.

im looking for a refurb 7d, where can i get one? thanks.

I am a Pro MMMA (Mixed Martial Arts) fight photographer and Just used my new 5DMKIII to shoot a fight event. I was a bit worried that all would be perfect given the number of negative 5DMKIII posts here and on other boards and me mastering the new AF system - but then concluded that most negative forum posts were more attributed to user issues versus anything else.
MMA photography prohibits flash during fights, hence unlike the UFC with perfect lighting for PPV/TV coverage, local fight venues have a few rented light banks on a pole - so lighting is always a huge low light challenge requiring max ISO limits / fastest possible shutter speeds for action / and wide apertures that still protect enough DOF for 2 fighters.
My mistake - I left my 5DMKIII ISO selectable range set at 100-12,000 by accident from some earlier night tests. Fight night I rub my regular pre-fight tests and zero in at my desired settings (this night I choose to shoot TV as lighting is very uneven) - 320/4.0/3200 - and love the 5DMKIII's setting's lock switch. Start shooting and notice on my LDC that my images are looking brilliant, yet all other photogs are complaining that the low lighting is killing them - I just want to assume that the 5DMKIII is really performing well as I am now too busy to think of anything else - never noticing that my ISO was auto changing on each image shot. A couple of times I checked my INFO menu and always saw my locked down 3,200 setting. My only camera attention is on mastering the best settings for the AF as Canon did not provide a pre-set for MMA
I get home and start to review my nights work and can not believe what I am seeing - my ISO settings are all over the board with a vast majority between 8,000 and 12,000 ???? I then realize that the metering system depending on my focal point was determining that more light was needed and the only variable available to the camera to adjust was ISO. I went ahead and just did my regular PP via LR4 set my noise reduction up a bit higher (40 ish) - and let everything run.
WOW! - I would have never had the nerve to test 12,000 ISO at a live pro sporting event - and the 5DMKIII delivered incredibly well - as this could have been a real nightmare situation with any other camera. I now plan on using this same auto ISO setting again and just tightening up the range a bit.
My photos are posted here - Please share your comments: http://www.tomhillphotos.com/5535402

Hello everyone,

Right now I have 50d + kit 18-55 (useless thing) + 50 1.4.
I've got two ways now:

1. Sell 50d + kit and buy 5d mark ii
2. Or to buy 35L or 24L or 50L (they almost the same budget) for my 50d

I'm confused, what is better way to go, good lens and crop or not so good lens and full frame?

Thank you,
Serhiy

i'm looking into buying a refurbed 7d, but i was wondering which 2 lenses to buy for it. i need one for general walking around shooting, another zoom for when i shoot sports. i was thinking Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM, for the standard walking around one, then a 70-200mm lens but i'm not sure which one.

can anyone recommend some good lenses around the $800-$950/ £550-£750 price range.

Just like the title says, I've always been awed by photos of the Milky Way and have long wanted to try it out. For the last four years I've been using a 5D1 and all my lenses are f/4.

But now I've got my 5D3 and am curious to know if my 17-40 is up for the job, or whether I should invest in a 16-35 or a 14mm 2.8. Obviously, the best way to find out would be to go and actually take some shots, but lacking a car makes that a bit difficult.

I intend to do some testing, but I'll have to wait until July when I do my 14 day self-supported cycling trip from Calgary to Banff to Jasper and back, but I thought I'd get your input. I'm going to rent either the 16-35 or the 14mm 2.8, and am curious to know which one you think would be better suited.

My gut tells me to go with the 16-35 and then sell my 17-40. I'm usually on a bicycle or hiking trip when I shoot, so simply swapping out the 17-40 for the 16-35 makes sense simply to keep the weight down. After all, it's easier to carry two lenses than three when weight is an issue. But, if the IQ of the 14mm 2.8 is much better than the 16-35, I'd consider it instead.

I'm curious to know your thoughts.

I've finally got the cash (and permission!) to get a proper camera. I do some event work, as well as some portrait and landscape shots. I shoot a lot of video.

For a while it seemed like the T4i might be the camera worth waiting for (for it's rumored video features), but it's nowhere to be seen, SO

I'm looking at a a T1/T2/T3i and the 60D.

When I line all 4 of those cameras up, they are all basically identical. They all have DiGiC 4 all (but the T1) have the vari-angle viewfinder, all (but the T1) have the same 18 MP sensor...Is there really any difference among them?

At the moment, I'm almost leaning toward getting a T1 or T2 as a stop-gap until Canon decides what it wants to do this year. The Canon Loyalty Program makes some of the pricing on the low end cameras pretty compelling.

So please school me... what's the difference?

:O

anyone know how to set this up? .. never really used it but shooting some evening portraits outside so thought id figure it out.. google isnt of much help.
Adam

hi, sorry if it's been asked before, i'm a CR noob. but i'm trying to decide whether or not to buy the 7d, or wait for an upgrade, i don't have a desperate need for a camera right now as i'm on my gap year, but i will need one soon. i don't currently own a DSLR though and i want to go out and shoot. does anyone have any idea when a potential upgrade will be released (mk ii or 70d perhaps). i will need a camera in 3/4 months time though.

the 7d has all the features i need and more (i mainly shoot architecture and sports/movement). i've looked at other reviews and forums, some people are having issues with the AF on the 7d, i mainly use MF so thats not the end of the world but it is a concern. so should i go for the 7d with the Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM lens to start with, or should i wait and see what happens in the next couple of months, or is there another body i should consider? thanks in advance.

I spent today at NEAF in Suffern, NY. To expand, NEAF is the North Eastern Astronomy Forum. It runs today and tomorrow, and has all sorts of interesting things going on, from workshops to prize draws, lectures to observing parties. There's also amazing equipment to lust after, much of which leaves camera gear waaaaay behind price wise.

Canon typically has a stand at the show (this was my sixth and I can't recall them not being there) and this year was no different. Manning the stand was none other than Chuck Westfall! I chatted with him for a little while - he really is a terrifically pleasant man - and he let me affix some of the lovely high-end glass on display to my 7D.

I also was able to play around with the 1Dx they had. Now, I love my 7D, but it paled in comparison to the 1Dx. The build quality is simply superb, the viewfinder the biggest and brightest I have ever experienced, the user interface well-designed, and the feeling in the hand wonderful. It was how I imagine Bentleys feel when you're used to a family sedan. Of course, for $6800 I'd expect no less.

While I was there, a lot of people came up and tried various ways of getting Chuck and the other gentleman (whose name I don't recall) to spill the beans on future products. They were probing for info on full frame high MP offerings, on EVIL options and other things we discuss here. Well, Chuck and his coworker were polite but firm: "we can't say anything". I think they were getting a little tired of the questions to be honest...

So, no new info here. Just wanted to relate what I saw. Oh, one more thing: there was a 60Da there, but no one seemed interested (and this was an astronomy crowd, remember); everyone made for the 1Dx then the 5D3 then the L glass, in that order. Maybe it was different later. The guy next to me wanted to know if he could have a 5D3 specially made with no AA filter. That was a no....

Try it for your self. It has real-life impact on your photos if you use the cable remote control, because then the rubber cover is also lifted from the mic-input. Light falls directly on the sensor.

I've done some searching on how to MFA, but I'm not sure which one to use. I have a 5D MkII

Can anyone point me to the best way?

Thanks!

Where did all the people go that thought the 5d3 was soft? Did the problem go away? Or did the people who thought so?

Because I still think the 5d3 shots are softer than the 5d2, to the point like it feels like I should have glasses on to make them properly sharp..

They have detail and the images (other than sharpness) is just wonderful. But it feels like all my lenses have been downgraded.

And NO it's not a microadjustment issue or "the new complex af system". It's the sensor I guess...

I decided to buy the the new 600EX RT + ST-E3-RT transmitter instead of a 580EX + PW miniTT1 + flexTT5...

The main reasons for my choice are:
- moneywise inclusing PW or Canon ST-E3-RT it doenst really matter... they are about the same price.
- The canon transmitter looks very promising in terms of intuitif operation and layout of controls.
- it's simple and there is no need for any extra things to put on the hotshoes on my strobist gear.

The reason why I havent bought the 600EX RT is the sync speed.
I've read that the manual states that the high speed sync only works on 5d MK3 or 1DX...but some people say that the high speed sync works on the 5d MK2 and 60D as wel...?

Can anyone of you confirm please by first hand experience that the 5dMk2 + 600EX RT + wireless transmitter works with high sync speed up to 1/4000s (off camera) ??

Thanks in advance for your answer!!

Regards,

Bart

Trying decide on a great pocket cam and backup to my dslr's when on a job, want RAW, gps, best possible low light, and I love shooting panorama in camera. That's the only thing I think holding me back from the s100. Rad dpreview.com on both cameras. Not sure of size of Olympus but want the better lens and panorama. Powershot is better on size and fit, but just not sure what I can't make a decision.... Ahhhhhh help!

The leaked 5d3 said the Canon USA offical r only those SN is in the range of““xxxxx1xxxxxx”　or “xxxxx2xxxxxx”. But according to Chinese,there is extra condition that there is not white dot in the CF card cover. All in all，sn+without white dot is leaked.What does that dot mean？If that proves Canon had known the leak during the production of “xxxxx1xxxxxx”and “xxxxx2xxxxxx”?
As the pic below,the white dot.

both tests are interesting i think.
as a guy who always goes for best image quality the D800 looks incredible.
im not so much a high iso shooter.

i have to give it to sony... the sensor is fantastic!
the 5D MK2 was a game changer in video.. the D800 is nearly as impressive for stills i think.

http://www.fredmiranda.com/5DIII-D800/

There is no question that the D800 does not disappoint in signal to noise ratio (SNR) at low ISO and has higher dynamic range. I'm still shocked by the differences.

I know this is disappointing for Canon shooters but on the bright side, there is a workaround if you shoot RAW. Start by overexposing (up to 1 stop) above the correct exposure before taking your shot and then normalize the exposure later in software. This gives you the correct exposure but the shadow detail is much cleaner, just in case you need to push it a stop or two. Alternatively you could use ISO L (50) for low contrast situations whenever lighting and wind conditions allow. However, make sure that there is no clipping in the highlights (blinkies) because essentially when you are using ISO 50, you are already compromising highlight detail by about one stop. I've used this workaround for many years and have been happy with the results.

In regards to the Nikon D800 handing of noise in the shadow areas, I have to say it's nothing short of amazing! Kudos to Sony and Nikon for the new sensor partnership. The Exmor sensor is exceptional and there is so much detail in the shadows. I can push the shadows more than 4 stops without any hint of color noise. WOW! Let's just say the D800 sensor is a breakthrough in sensor technology.

Click to expand...

here are some more examples of what the D800 can do.

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/cameras/nikon_d800__e_initial_impressions.shtml

canon has to move into faster gear and work on it´s sensors.
low iso quality is as important as high iso quality.

i have not thought it.. but i will not deny it.... i realy like the D800 for it´s image quality.

that said, privatly i will stay with canon.

Over the last 8+ years, I've gone from the original Digital Rebel to 20D, 40D and 7D. I've always dreamed of having a FF body and now have decided to pull the trigger on the 5D Mk III. I've bought and sold lenses over the years and have what I believe is an excellent kit for my needs right now: 10-22, 24-105L, 70-200/2.8L II, 35/1.4L, 50/1.4, 85/1.8

The only lens that won't work with the new 5D (once it gets here, if it ever does), is the 10-22. I love that lens, but I'm now pondering what to replace it with, if anything. The 24mm of the 24-105 on FF will actually be equivalent to the mid-range of the 10-22 on the 7D. If I do decide to buy something to replace the 10-22, my options would be 16-35/2.8L or the 17-40/4L. However, I'm not sure if either is worth the price considering the overlap with the 24-105. I shoot all kinds of material, and don't have a specific niche that I'm looking for, but the wide angle zoom would be used for landscapes, architecture and general walk around lens when I feel the need for the wider side of life (as opposed to the 24-105 which is typically my walk around lens of choice). On the other hand, perhaps I should not buy a new lens, stick with 24mm on the wide end and instead spend some money on an extender (since I won't have the reach I had with the 7D).

I'm just looking for people's thoughts who may have been through similar decision process.

Thanks!

Interesting alternative to Canon 24-70 MkII.

http://www.ephotozine.com/article/tamron-sp-24-70mm-f-2-8-vc-usd-lens-review-19056

I am getting eager to sell my old 5DC, and my local Canon representatives have no idea when the next batch of 5D III's are due. All i see in the forums are threads regarding the light leak issue, which frankly does not bother me at all. Any info would be much appreciated!

Quick question, I've generally always shot on the maximum L size Raw images (on my old 8mp 20D) but heard that on the full frames, like the Mark III that the images actually turn out sharper (pixel peeper wise) on the S or M settings as opposed to the L. I know for a fact that I don't need L size prints ;D (Yes, I realize that the reason they show up sharper is like with anything, take a big image, shrink it to a smaller size, like when you see the massive image in a 3" LCD screen where everything looks awesome and then you blow it up and realize it's all blurred.. unless I'm wrong, feel free to correct me, hah)

Anyways, I was just wondering what everyone normally shoots at, as far as pros go with full frames like the Mark II and III. Do you shoot L Raw and downsize in PS/LR or do you shoot somewhere in the M range or other (and a reason would be nice ).

I haven't attempted to go smaller yet, although seeing how fast 22mp fill up space... I am verrrrrry tempted to try it out. I almost always wind up downsizing anyways.