Okay guys... Here's my question... I have studio strobes... I would like a cheap radio popper to trigger them... dont need TTL or focus assist or radio or anything like that as it doesn't matter with studio strobes... doesn't need anything fancy... but I do have a 5d3, which I have heard has caused problems with other triggers in certain situations... Any suggestions?

http://kenrockwell.com/tech/photography-most-disrespected-art-form.htm


I don't think I could have said it better myself. I know this is a GEAR site, but it always pays to keep things in perspective. Well said, KW.

I have been a regular visitor to this site and looked through a lot of the photographs. It appears to be a good network for critique and comments. So I decided to make an account and here are a couple of shots of mine.

I currently own a Canon 5D mkIII and five lenses including the Canon EF 14mm f/2.8 L II, Canon EF 24-105mm f/4 L IS USM, Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS USM, EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM and Canon EF 50mm f/1.2 L USM. I am an amateur that shoots family portaits, woodworking projects and occassional auto and air shows, but I primarily enjoy hiking and landscape photography.

I am contemplating the purchase of a new landscape lens (TS-E 24 II, TS-E 17, 24-70 II or Zeiss 21mm) and believe I need to incorporate use of filters to improve my landscape images. The cost of the 100mm HiTech holder, grad filters, circular polarizer and adapters tallies to over $1K. As a point of reference, the cost of a 82mm quality variable density filter and circular polarizer from B&W is about $600.

My understanding is that grad filters limit the dynamic range of portions of an image to work-around the limitations of the imaging sensor. If sensors had sufficient dynamic range, use of grad filters would be unnecessary since the gradient effect and tonal modifications can be applied in post-processing. I understand that the effects of polarizers and uniform darkening filters cannot be emulated in post.

Here are my questions:
1. My perception is that use of a Lee or HiTech filter holder and plates will require more setup time and more fragile than screw-on filters. Do the virtues of a filter holder system, such as the HiTech outweigh the benefits of screw-on filters?
2. If I were to invest in a new body and lenses capable of higher dynamic range to augment my current gear, would this substantially alter the makeup, need for and cost of a filter system? In other words, is there another equivalent technical solution?

Hello!

I have a nFD 135mm f/2 lens converted to EF mount with the EdMika kit. I like the pictures I take with this lens, but from time to time the pictures have a weird "white fog" (is it ghosting?) overlaying the subject. I don't know why it happens, neither can I predict when it happens. I would appreciate it if anyone could give me a hint what is causing this white fog. I have shot very little with the lens, but I'm guessing the white fog thing happens only when the subject has a particular distance from the lens..is this possible? Please have a look at the picture. Thanks!

Hello,

I'm a little bit confused... After setting the shutter speed in program TV and trying to make a shot, than I'm switching in program M, the shutter speed in M is the same and overwrite my old M settings.

Let me explan that:
- M
- set Speed 1200
- press release a half
- TV
- set Speed 200
- press release a half
- M
- Speed is 200 !!!

Is that normally so?

JH

I currently use a 40D and am looking to upgrade. What does everyone recommend to me as I shoot wildlife and rodeos. Generally the lighting in Rodeo venues is horrible. Thanks all!

...here is a shot of a three and half year old tigress in Bandhavgarh, India (the Banbehi tigress), taken at 8.00 one January morning at ISO2000 with a 1D MkIV and 300mm lens: 1/250 at f/4.5.

PLEASE don't ask why it wasn't a portrait shot - it was snatched in great haste with little time for thought!

I shall post no more tigers: I simply can't compete with Anand's superb shots!

Stephen

Mother of the sub-adults. The sub-adults were photographed in January 2011. Their mother in May 2012. I was on an elephant back for over an hour. This tigress was in a cave just above me. The first image at 7.33 am and the second image at 750 am.

No Cropping.

Canon 7D with 100-400. Few minutes later she came down to mate (posted earlier as Male Tiger Relaxing 2). He was in a cave below. Video-graphed with a 100-400 and iPad 2. The elephant was all the time swaying. When the tigers climaxed they roared and that shook all of us including the elephant that was just 10 feet away.

Sibling of the male posted earlier.

Had a wonderful time with this sub-adult in my very first outing to a tiger reserve. Few seconds in the presence of a tiger in the wild is awe inspiring. I had minutes to all myself. No other vehicle/photographer.

Hi,

Here are my first handheld macro shots using extension tubes on the 24-105L
ISO 1600, f7, 1/200s

Hey everyone,

So last week I posted my first portrait shoot, that thread can be found about 5 posts down, and tonight I posted on Flickr my second portrait shoot. These two girls were my coworkers. I originally intended to only shoot Ashley, the one in the black dress. However, Kerine with the long brown hair hopped in at the last minute as well. All around I am mostly happy with how they came out. But Kerine was definitely more comfortable in front of the camera. Let me know what you think and any tips!!! Thanks! Also, these were shot with a rebel t3i and 50mm 1.8

http://www.flickr.com/photos/logan_hickle/sets/72157631780761342/

OK, I have the 24-105 (haven't used it and may sell it for something else like a 24-70 ii) I also have the 35L, the 85 1.8, the 100 L macro 2.8, the 70-200 F4L. My EF-S lenses for my T4i are the 17-55 2.8 and the 10-22 Wide.

Thinking of the 50 1.2 or upgrading the 1.8 to the 1.2. Not sure I can justify the 85 upgrade, as the 1.8 is pretty sweet. Leaning toward the 50. I love my T4i and 35L combo, so on my new 5D3, the 50 will be close.

Or, do I stick with what I have since using a combo of my ASP-C and FF with current lenses, covers most focal lengths.

If it helps, I am an event photographer, I shoot models and families too. Looking to get into weddings and have already been asked to shoot 2 in 2013.

Weren't we supposed to hear something about a new, lower priced speedlite in October? I've searched the forums and the Internets, but have yet to find even a peep about anything radio controlled south of the 600.

Kind of holding my breath here to see if I can jump into a few cheaper RT flashes or if I'm going to need to save up for the 600. Anyone heard anything?

Hello all,

I am considering to get a bridge cam with raw shooting ability just to carry around when not having any intention to photograph (yep, missed a couple of shots lately as I did not have the 5D2 & co with me :). Versatiliy would be good so have been looking at lumix fz-200 as constant f/2.8 for a 25-600 equivalent zoom sounds handy also at the sx50hs but not sure how good the images from 1/2.33" (6.08 x 4.56 mm) sensors can be. Also cosidering large sensor compacts like the G1X but, as I mentioned, a little more reach would be preferred. I am not very familiar with the products in these segments so wanted to ask whether anyone has any suggestion/advice...

Cheers!

Pair of Sandhill cranes taken at Longpoint Marsh.

I just saw this on eBay, so I'm just putting it out there if anyone is interested. The 1DX is going for $6445.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Canon-EOS-1DX-Digital-SLR-Camera-5253B002-USA-Warranty-/160875216019?pt=Digital_Cameras&hash=item2574e8fc93

I noticed that the new lenses with the facelifted fonts and texture happen to have available firmware updates for them. For example the 8-15mm, or the New 24-70 II, or any of the new updated Telephoto Primes 300mm II, 400mm II etc. Has anyone noticed this with any older lenses?

Like many people I'm contemplating upgrading to full-frame with the introduction of the 6D and Nikon's D600.
Given I won't be able to use my EF-S lenses on the 6D the Nikon is a possibility.
Given cost and weight considerations I want two lenses to cover the 24 to 300mm range.
For Nikon this means 24-85 and 70-300. But when looking at test results on slrgear.com the results for these lenses do not seem as good as Canon's 24-105 and 70-300.
However, I was still somewhat disappointed by the 24-105's results from 70 to 105 at full aperture on a full-frame camera. (see link below), yet the lens is widely praised on this forum.

http://slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php/product/145/cat/11

How useable is the 24-105 from 70mm upwards?

The results for the 70-300 seem very good (given it's price) at full aperture on full-frame. The review site suggests they are better then the 70-300L for sharpness. Yet the non-L lens seems to get criticised on this forum. (see link below)

http://slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php/product/253/cat/11

As I'm primarily concerned about sharpness, given most other things seem treatable in software, I'm wondering whether Slrgear got atypical copies of these lenses, or are their results not consistent with peoples' experiences of using these lenses? I'm confused!
I would appreciate the comments of people who own, or have used these lenses.

Thanks

Hello I have a budget of $200 and I was looking for two umbrellas or softboxes to do portraits but wanted them portable. Any ideas.

I'm facing the upgrade dillema - should I get a second hand 1Ds MkIII or a new 5D MkIII...

For almost eight years now, I'm shooting with a 1Ds MkII
and I'm thinking that maybe it is time to replace it.

It is still doing a good job and my clients are happy, but...



I almost exclusively work in the studio, or outdoors in the range of 100-400 ASA.

I'm only interested in the image quality.


Can someone describe in detail, the differences in image quality between 1Ds MkIII and 5D MkIII?

Does anyone has any useful information about Canon FPA-3000 iW stepper, regarding its usability and other reviews.

There's a lot of talking recently about DxOMark sensor tests.
I am considering buying one of the Canon's telephoto lenses so I took a look at their tests (http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Lenses/Camera-Lens-Database/Canon).
I was utterly shocked when I saw the results. My question is are their resolution tests accurate?
Canon 300mm 2.8IS II which is considered one of the sharpest canon lenses (in line with 135 f2.0) scored lower (49lp/mm) than 70-200 f2.8 IS II (52lp/mm), 50mm 1.4 (63lp/mm)etc. I used all of these lenses and I do realize that 50mm is super sharp at f/4, and I am comparing apples and oranges (short focal with telephoto) but for crying out loud If I spend 16 times more on 300mm I do expect it to be at least at sharp as 50mm f1.4 at f/4
I went on line and googled all there is to google about DxoMark tests and I am really lost. To judge for myself I went to http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=111 and compared ISO 12233 Chart 100% Crops and I have to say that 300mm seems to be sharper or at least as sharp as 50 1.4 at f/4 and a few other lenses.
Can somebody please tell me: are these DxOMark tests right or not. Thank.you.