While most self portraits or selfies are stupid photos of girls with there lips stuck out like a duck and there backs hunched over, I would like to see what Canon Rumors can do with a camera in there hands and themselves as the subject. I just got a Yongnuo YN-560 II and a Cowboy Studio Trigger, I wanted to try some portrait shots but no one else was around, this is what I came up with using a Canon T1i and a 50mm 1.8 II.

So there! Both have the Image Stabilization (Optical Stabilization or OS for Sigma). So the mark 1 version from Canon vs the Sigma's OS version. How is the sharpness and contrast from Sigma 70-200 f2.8 OS compared to the Canon 70-200 f2.8 IS version one. Is the difference in terms of sharpness and contrast huge or noticeable? AF performance of Sigma I hear is more or less on par with the Canon version, but please correct me if I am wrong. Also, can you AFMA Sigma or other 3rd part lenses on a 5DII/III ? Lastly, if I want to add focal length multiplier which teleconverters would be great for the Sigma glass on the bodies mentioned above. Kenko? Thanks.

So I have been lusting after a 1dx for a while. Almost, (but not quite), have the funds for it. But I'm not sure I NEED it. I currently have a 7d and 5d3.

I have three options.

Sell the 7d to help fund a d800e purchase, then shoot my 5d3 along side d800e for work and pleasure. I figure they compliment each other pretty well. 5d3 for low light, candid shots (Im a wedding photog) and speed, then the 800e for posed portraits that would print large, and macro. plus i really want to do more landscape work (non paid).

option 2, sell the 5d3 to help fund a 1dx. Its a 1dx. Awesome. Do I NEED it? eh. Would it be a dream come true? YES. SO i would shoot my 1dx at weddings, and almost never touch the 7d. so I'll have one camera and be switching lenses all the time (like I do now, why touch a 7d when i have a 5d3).

Option 3. Buy neither, keep saving, and someday, in the fairly distant future, get a 200 f2. Dream lens. Would use it for posed portraits, but not candids as I love to be able to zoom during ceremony with my 70-200 2.8 is II.


I know shooting duel systems can be a pain, but I like the idea of being able to buy just about ANY lens, no limits, best of both worlds type of thing.

Thoughts? Experiences? Would the 1dx just be SOOOO awesome that I wouldn't even touch a d800e if i had one?

I noticed a depression had suddenly been dug out near our flowers this morning, so while my hand is healing, I grabbed my wife's G11 to photographically track down the culpret. As you can guess, I was pretty suspicious.
The images seem to lack punch, its a gray day and I did not feel like spending time on them.

A hole dug in my yard.


So I looked for clues and finger - er - footprints.


Sure enough, just follow the clues.

Hi

I have been reviewing the comments on here for a while and thought often about posting. But it is a Rumors (sic) site and I prefer to shoot than talk. However in the last week (literally 7 days) I have come across 3 circumstances were my 2 400ds have really let me down. I need comforting and some good reasons for my better half to change.

First, evening rugby match, where the flood lights, ISO performance and 70-200 F4 L could not cope with what was going on. Following day poorly lit museum which did not allow flash or tripod so had to shoot hand held at whatever ISO the 400plus settings would allow. I reviewed at the end of the first stint and went around again at ISO400-800 doing the best I could. They are ok but I am still disappointed, binned 80 % of shots, none have got 4 or 5 stars. Finally been out today, at a safari park with indoor play area. Outside is ok but internal performance on the indoor slides is frankly rubbish. I ended up using off camera remote triggered flash to try to make up for the low light, binned over 70%, no 4 or 5 star shots.

In good light I love the 400ds, I have worked over the last few years to get the best out of flash (strobes), 3 manuals on cheap rf triggers. I shoot mainly in av priority 70%, tv 10%, manual 10% and p 10% (normally because I am tired/ inebriated/ flustered to be bothered to work out what to do). In reality 90% of the P shots are binned due to the reasons I take them (tired/ inebriated/ flustered).

I thought I had worked out that I really needed to save for a 5D3 to get over the frustrations the last week, but the comments on here, Nikonrumors and other photography sites have me confused. Given that I have the nifty fifty, 70-200 f4 L, 11-16 Tokina EFS lens, canon 15-85 EFS lens, I am not sure whether to cash it all in and go Nikon (D600 or D800), or stay with Canon and go 5D3 or 6D. Until it is out (6D) I am not sure whether the whining that goes on here is relevant to my decision. I can get my kit to work and happy to work at it, I hated the first 4 months after I moved from Windows Vista to Mac, but I would not go back. I have to work with Windows at work but at home, Mac all the way. So Nikon would hurt in the short term but longer term I can work with known issues with any kit

So really confused and would love some input, expecting it to be Canon +ve though just as I expect the Nikon boys to be Nikon +ve.

History wise, I had a Pentax film camera, then went Fuji as a first digital, followed by a Nikon P&S, then a Canon P&S. The 400d was only bought to hang off the back of a telescope, but poor conditions has seen it used in a more conventional role. I detest the softness the kit lens if it helps, hence the 15-85 EFS.

Shooting wise, 50 % is of the family during days out and holidays, the remaining 50% tends to be static views, landscape etc but some of that is because I know the setup I have cannot cope with fast action or low light situations. Typically shoot 6000-8000 frames a year, bin less than 20%, but only have 4/5 star rating for 10-15%. I am picky and in reality only print the top 10% for albums and even that is too much!! I could do with shoot less and think more generally but that still would not help in the situations I have find myself in above

I only have 2 400ds because I lost the use of one due to being in a dirty, dusty environment and ended up losing the use of it due to dirt on the sensor, subsequently cleaned by me. I have looked at more old tech from ebay but the costs versus the issues I have, I cannot see the rationale for spending more money just to get marginal improvements. It is not a business for me but something I enjoy doing and I have had enough success to print some shots at 24x16in and have them professionally framed and displayed.

I would love to take the kit off the disillusioned Canon shooters out there but suspect that words are cheap, actions are more serious. I am pretty sure that I am going to save for 6 months and get a 5d3 but want really want cheaper, quicker solutions. I need a silver bullet and my hand holding. In reality I am likely to keep the EFS kit just as an easy low risk everyday system for when I want a camera but do not want to carry around a large piece of kit saying mug me.

Thanks in advance and sorry for the long ramble.

I am lucky enough to borrow the 800mm this weekend. I wanted to see how far it reaches, and also how far it reaches with help. The series are from 16mm to 2560 in effective focal lenght. The last picture is cropped a 100%. The distance from where I was standing and the building over the Oslofjord is approximately 9 kilometres.

G.

I know some shooters keep a finger out which is what I used to do on a lighter body such as my old T2i and what I currently do on my Elan 7 but on my 7D and now the 5D3 I just need the stability. What I wonder is how do you have your Tv/Av dials mapped? I switched the default to the Av on the back dial for a while so my exposed thumb could easily adjust but I found it screwed me up when shooting film where I keep my finger out and change it on the top dial.

What seems to work best?

There was a game yesterday I was at. Some really nice cheerleaders were there, so I thought I'd share...


Poland - RSA by marekjoz, on Flickr


Poland - RSA by marekjoz, on Flickr


Poland - RSA by marekjoz, on Flickr

Hey folks, I'm in the market to get my first Canon hotshoe flashgun and I'm wondering if the 580EX II will be gone soon. I have a 5D Mark II and I'm looking into the 430 and the 580 right now. At the moment, I won't be needing the wireless master of the 580, but probably will in the future. So I was wondering if I get a 430 now and wait for when I'll need the wireless master, is the 580 going to be gone. Right now, only B&H has stock i think, and the 600 is just overkill for me. And in terms of performance, is the 580 THAT much better than the 430 to justify a 200$ higher price tag?

Thanks, much appreciated!

Since some of you already have the new 24-70 II, I thought it might be a good time to post up a topic like this. My question is this: do you see that you would use the Mark II in a different way than Mark I?

I ask because what I think is that Canon improved the drawing capability by quite a margin over the old lens. Additionally, from the reviews it sounds like the wide angle side does not have that much field curvature any more (though I'm not sure whether this has been intentional as well), and color aberrations have been reduced further.

These design decisions apparently came with the following drawbacks: bokeh isn't as nice as it was with Mark I, there is more distortion, and while the minimum focus distance is the same, the reproduction factor has dropped from 3.45 to somewhere around 5.

For my style of photography, these things actually make Mark II sound less appealing (granted; I have not tried it yet). Have you noticed these differences in actual use? I have got a good use of the old lenses macro, and would not like to see that capability go so that I'd need to carry a macro lens to do same stuff in the future. As I occasionally use film, I don't welcome the increased distortion either.

What's your thoughts? Is this a step to a right direction for a general purpose zoom?

Hi forum. I been reading a lot of forums and posts about the T3i vs 60D vs T4i.

I decided on the T3i (as my first beginner DSLR) because of my budget(roughly $900) and because of the Magic Lantern advantage and the 3x zoom. I will mainly use this camera for video purposes(Short Films,Music Videos,etc.) and a bit for photographs(stop motion/light painting/timelapse) because I want to pursue my dream of being a filmmaker.

So I began looking for deals on the T3i and I came up with Three deals that spark my interest and budget.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/889348-REG/Canon_Canon_EOS_Rebel_T3i.html $853.95

The BHphoto has the one EF-S 18-55mm IS II Lens and a bunch of goodies such as (Sandisk 16gb SDHC Class 10, a bag, 58mm UV protector filter and 58mm Circular Polarizing Filter, battery grip,wireless remote shutter release, extra battery not oem, lcd screen protector and a lens cap holder.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/889555-REG/Canon_Canon_EOS_Rebel_T3i.html $996.50

This kit is almost the same except for the one Canon EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Lens and 67mm filters instead of the 58mm.
This kit is bit over my budget but is it worth the extra $96 for the 18-135mm lens.
Will that lens help me out in the long run for filming?

http://www.costco.com/Canon-Rebel-T3i-DSLR-Camera-2-Lens-Bundle.product.11760020.html $779.99

The Costco bundle has the 2 lens (18-55mm IS and 55-250mm IS), 8GB Class 10 SDHC Card, Canon Rebel Gadget Bag, Mini-HDMI Cable.
This bundle has the advantage of being available in the Costco near my house so I can just go a buy it and not have to wait for the shipping.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
My questions is which kit bundle will benefit me better for filming? The extra two lens or the one lens/ extra batteries/ battery life? ???

I own a Canon VIXIA HF200 HD Camcorder currently. Which I plan on using as a backup and for long videos past 10 minutes .

Thank you so much and I apologize for the long post. ;D

Edit: -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


I am aware of the STM lens for the T4i and how the focusing would be better for the video, but I chose the T3i because of the Magic Lantern advantage it has right now and because I don't want to wait for the ML for the T4i. Do you think I am making the right decision? Would it handicap me for not having the ML on the T4i?

I know ML isn't a big advantage, but I really want the zebra lines and time lapse feature that the ML allows me to do with out having to buy the Intervalometer( I know I can find cheap ones)


Which would be better the 18-135 STM lens with the T4i/ No Magic Lantern (extra $279 more) or The T3i with the two 18-55/55-250 lens ($779-$747) and Magic Lantern for filming? (Magic Lantern Handicap)

I decide not to go with any of the junk grade extras thrown in now I am deciding if I should get the Costco Deal or
Would it be wise to just save up more money and get the 60D or T4i? I am only rushing a little just for the T3i-18-55/55-250 lens deal for Costco it expires the 27th of this month.

Hi all, my very first post here.

I am the owner of a 5d mark II, 35mm L and 135mm F2 L. I mainly shoot landscapes and portraits, but I am also interested in photographing birds and not at least my children in whatever they do.

After owning the 5d since release, had 40d before that, I feel thta it covers my landscape addictions, but I am having a hard time photographing birds in flight and also my 3 year old daughter who is as fast as a formula 1 car, can't stand still usualy not good enough focus and missed moments that ill never be able to capture again. For birds it is ok with lost shots, but i would like to up my hit rating. Beeing a family that takes time I don not have whole days anymore to spend photographing, but thats life

I am wondering about getting the 1D IV or Mark III. Have to admit I have been looking at he 1DX as well but its a tad expensive.
I have ready looooads of posts here, and other places, but I am still not sure which one would be better for me. I am not sure if the 1D iv has better atufocus and capabilites for my needs than mark III.

Would be very appreciated with some views on his matter.

Ok, so this is extremely tempting. I have been meaning to upgrade for sometime but waiting for the right moment (in terms of price) to pull the trigger.

I have the following gears right now:
1) Canon 60D
2) Canon 24-70mm f2.8L (MK I)
3) Canon 50mm f1.8 II
4) Tokina 11-16mm f2.8

I shoot:

1) Landscape, Architecture 2) Portrait, Group Portraits 3) Still-life, 4) Often in low-light situations, often dont have control over lighting situation. 5) Any kind of interesting surface textures for use in 3D Modeling.

So one of the reason I bought 24-70 is the f2.8 aperture in the normal zoom range, since 60Ds ISO performance isn't something to write about. And I avoid going above 400 ISO. I hate the noise. Another reason is the shallow depth of field. Now if jump in on this BnH deal, I have 2 options

Keep 24-70 and sell 24-105 OR
Keep 24-105 and sell off the 24-70.

My question is if I keep, 24-105 I will lose the shallow depth of field that I get from f2.8. How significant is the loss in shallowness from f2.8 to f4. I can try taking shots in f2.8 and f4 with my 24-70 and see the approximate difference, but if any of you out there who had already faced similar situation may be able to shed some light and would be of great help. Also, is 24-105 comparatively sharper across the range? Let's say both lens are calibrated to work with the same body. I am guessing I will bump up the ISO higher if I end up getting the 5DIII to get acceptable shutter speed to freeze subject, plus IS helps.

So there, hope I made sense. Is it better to keep the 24-70 or 24-105 in terms of shallow dof, sharpness. Oh, in the future I know I will get the 70-200 so I am not thinking the reach as a factor that much (even though switching to FF).

OR just wait for another one of those 2700-2800 5DIII body only deal :S ? (bangs head against the wall)!

5DMkIII

In manual mode, live view only seems to work when the shutter release is pressed half way and then only for a few seconds before the live view image disappears from the LCD screen again.

It works fine in other shooting modes e.g. Av

Is this a fault or a design feature?

If a design feature - can anyone explain why it's set up this way?

Is there a work around (other than pressing the shutter release half way)?

Hello.
Am looking to buy a snug cover for 1dx but cant find one. Any clues?
This is what Delkin told me: (I bought cover for 5d3 from them.)

Hi Sanjay

Thank you for interest and inquiry regarding our professional line of Snug-It protective skins. I am sorry to inform you that we don’t carry a snug-it for the 1DX camera and don’t have future plan for it as well. The 1DX camera is very expensive and very few customers have that camera. Most of our snug-it’s are designed for more affordable SLR cameras that have a demand in the market. If have any further inquires please feel free to contact us with any questions.

http://www.petapixel.com/2012/10/12/polar-bear-at-a-german-zoo-gets-its-paws-on-a-canon-70-200mm-lens/

Or would a better caption be - Polar bear gets pissed about not using a lens hood on the 70-200!!

Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve, India.

I have been following him in all my three visits to the reserve. On my last visit, I video-graphed his mating session (with a 7D + 100-400 while on an elephant back).

This was shot in Bandhavgarh tiger reserve in India. A national TV channel short listed this image for display during 'Save the Tiger" initiative they aired.

I am on my way to completing my 2.8 zooms. Just think it is so sharp and I love the way the hood locks on like the 70-200 ii. I had to part with my 24-105 but feel it will be worth it during low light shots. Plus it seems sharp wide open. Just need to learn to live without IS. Anyone else just as happy?

Hi all,

Rumors (SR3 app CR1,5 ;D) go at sonyalpharumors that another FF sony will be coming next summer. 36mp sensor same as D800 as well as another 50mp sensor are mentioned as potential sensors of this cam. Also it should have built-in grip according to

http://www.sonyalpharumors.com/sr3-next-sony-full-frame-camera-to-be-scheduled-for-mai-june-2013/

High end body and 50mp does give me the impression it would be aiming at the high mp Canon and the MF market...

Cheers!

I have a 7D and love it. I primarily shoot my kids sporting events. Football, volleyball, basketball, track. Indoor/Outdoor.

Here is my dilemma. I want to buy a FF camera to do more portraits, landscape, etc. Do I sell my 7D and get a 5D III, or keep my 7D and get a 6D for a second body? (I couldn't justify the cost of the 5D III unless it could replace the 7D as well)

With the 5D III, I really only give up a couple of FPS vs the 7D and some reach which I would probably only miss in football. I gain much better ISO performance for the indoor sports like volleyball, where the 7D can struggle (even with an 85mm f/1.8 I need ISO 3200 which honestly is poor on the 7D).

I know many of you have owned a 5DII & 7D combo and have some experience with that. For those of you that moved to a 5D III - did you find yourself still using the 7D much?

I'm not in a hurry. I want to wait out the release of the 6D and see the reviews, and decide if I would go with the 6D vs. a 5D II (new or used). So, maybe next spring I would pull the trigger on the FF.

I've been trying to comprehence the data and test results, but cannot put it in the real life perspective.
If I used a SD card only what would that mean?
How many photos could I take before the camera would stop taking other photos?
How many would be the case with CF 600x card?

As CF cards are quite expencive would it be a better idea just to buy one 8GB 600x CF card and one 32GB SD and than just copy raw files from CF to SD from time to time?

I don't take video, but I wondered if I used 32GB UHC card (that 5dIII doesn't support) what would that mean, would it work all right?

New to the whole DSLR thing and am more on the video side of things.... now I'm going to invest in a 60D next month but being as I'm new to this I was wondering if anyone can advise me otherwise... basically because i haven't been lurking that much i don't know of many rumours and so on of a refresh or new model thats better for the same sort of price point im willing to wait a few months if that the case! any help would be appreciated!!! SWIFTY

So I ordered a 70-200mm lens from B&H yesterday with next day air. They told me it was shipped and that it would be here today. UPS has tracking info but they say they have never received the package to ship. Contacted B&H twice today and they said it would be here and that the package shipped!

Has anyone ever had a problem like this? B&H even told me they called UPS to confirm that they have the package and are shipping it!