With the 5D3 having separate MFA's for both the long and short end for each lens, I'm curious as to what the camera does with intermediate focal lengths. Does the camera apply a linear change between the extremes or simply switch from one to the other at some intermediate focal length?

Hi all,

In another post here someone asked about getting set of good, cheap old primes. This gave me an idea: I'm not a pro and can't afford lots of even non-L specialized lens, but I'd like to learn about different styles of photography (Macro, portraits, wildlife, low light and flash photography and even a bit of manual focusing...). So I thought: "why not to try old primes (whatever brand with adapter for EOS and probably manual focus and aperture)". They are much cheaper (not all) and many still hold great IQ on DSLR's.

Any ideas on which old primes set could fit me (I'm mostly interested in a good macro lens, even if it needs extension tube, Industar 50mm as an example, a long telephoto 400-600mm and low light wide prime).

From what I've read in other places and seen available on eBay I'm thinking of the next lenses:
* Macro: Canon 100mm f/4 FD, OLYMPUS ZUIKO MC 50mm F/3.5, any of the 135mm (pentax, soligor...) or as mentioned Industar 50mm pancake on extension tube.
* Telephoto: no idea actually but I saw quite cheap Paragon 500mm, Kalimar, Five Star etc... . Guess for the price they're offered the IQ is not exactly stellar.
* low light wide angle: Paragon 35 f/2.8, Mamiya/Secor 35mm f/1.4, SMC Takumar 35 f/2.

I've already bought the Super-Takumar 55 f/2 as a portrait lens and just to try manual focus. Didn't received it yet though, so don't know how it will work out.

I use 60D, by the way.

Thanks for you attention!

There was recently a long thread regarding the reality that the Canon 1Dc is mechanically identical to the 1Dx and is simply a firmware difference... that costs an additional $6000.

Most placed the blame on Canon; calling it a ripoff and gouging. BUT... that is NOT the case.

As it turns out, this is in response to European Union rules. The EU considers 4k video, even on a still camera, as a Professional VIDEO camera, and the taxes, duties, and other trade tariffs are excessive. Canon cannot sell the 1Dc in Europe as a Still Camera. This is EXACTLY the same reason that still cameras like the 1Dx have a video recording limitation of 29:59 minutes. At 30:00 capability, it becomes a "Video Camera" under EU rules.

This is screwing non-EU consumers because Canon is wary of getting slammed for violating EU rules, and probably afraid that offering the firmware upgrade only in non-EU countries would cause an underground blackmarket of product making its way to the EU. (Much like the graymarket here)

There IS a potential solution that I thought of....one that could solve the geographical issue. It's not something that Canon probably would have thought of though.. (Canon is not know for thinking "outside the box")

They could upgrade the 1Dx's with firmware that would REQUIRE the use of a Canon GP-E1 GPS unit that would have to be on the camera in order to film in 4X. The firmware would bar the use of 4X when the GPS unit showed the location to be anywhere within the EU... or within any OTHER country that had the same type of penalizing tariffs. Simple, and easy to do in firmware. I'd pay $1000 for the upgrade and buy the GP-E1 if that were the case.

Thoughts?

This video has been posted on The Blaze of a Leopard attack on Impalas. It was filmed with a Go-Pro cam mounted to a vehicle. The cool thing is to listen to the unmistakable alert sound of Canon cameras indicating AF and either a 1D Mk IV, or 1DX hammering away during the attack. Awesome video!

http://www.theblaze.com/stories/suspenseful-viral-vid-impala-doesnt-stand-a-chance-against-this-leopard/

Considering IQ is basically the same, the MK3's improved AF is almost wasted if you use manual focus lenses only.

At the same time, the 5D2 has interchangeable screens, while the 5D3 doesn't.

My only doubt is: does the 5D3 offer focus confirmation with EVERY focus point? Do they blink/stay red as when using an AF lens? In that case one wouldn't need a screen and the 5D3 might get tempting after all.

I've always heard photographers that praise a photographer for collecting either a 35/50/85 or 24/50/135 lens collection. Those are really really great lens and I've only got to spend 30 minutes with a 50 f/1.2 and I ultimately fell in love with it.

Is there a non-L prime trinity out there that offers the best images?

Like this is what I'm thinking, if I were to get the non-L versions of the 35/50/135 lens is that a good enough prime collection?

In most landscape situations, aperture needs to be set less than f/8 for large DOF. But according to the article below, 19mp is the max a 35mm full frame sensor can capture for red light (wav length of 0.0007mm) at f/8, doesn't matter if your camera has 36 or 46mp sensor...

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/resolution.shtml



So, what happens when a landscape picture is captured by 46 mp 35mm sensor at f/11? Do we see more blue than green and red? turquoise color shifted?

just saw a deal in Costco, thought it was a good one so figured I'd share: Canon 7D + 28-135mm USM lens + 320 EX Flash + 8GB CF card: $1799.

Just thought this is a good deal for this in the market for the awesome 7d.

Hey Everyone,

So I'm about to buy my first portrait lens for my T3i. I only have the kit lens as of now and always rent lenses whenever I do portrait sessions (fortunately The Lens Depot is five minutes down the road from where I live). I've rented the new 40mm 2.8, the 50 1.4, and the 85 1.8. I really enjoyed all of them, especially the colors of the 85 1.8. However, it did feel a little long on my crop camera. Overall, what are your suggestions for a good portrait lens. I mainly do outdoor stuff and am not in the studio at all. Here is a link to some of my previous work:

http://www.hankesphotography.com/f8874076

As of now, I'm leaning towards the 50 1.4. Price-wise I'd like to stay under 500, yet there is a part of me that wants to save up for something nicer (like a 35L or 50L).

Mike

I just received a Canon 180mm f/3.5L USM from Amazon, and I'm very impressed with the lens except that I noticed one thing that has me somewhat concerned: I can hear a faint squeaking from the focusing mechanism when it is moving, particularly on AI servo, probably because it's moving so much. It's not very loud or offensive, so my first thought was that perhaps it's normal for this lens since it is of an older design. However I've never heard such a noise from any other USM lens I've owned, so I thought I'd ask the 180mm macro lens owners on the forum, see if anyone else noticed this squeaking. If not, I still have plenty of time to exchange it with Amazon.

When I use my speedlight during an evening portrait shoot, there's a big difference in WB between the flash and the natural light. Is there a gel color that can counteract this?

Post your shots from Canon's longest MkII supertele!

Got mine a few days ago, have only had a couple of chances to use it, and those were close to home. Looking forward to having a bit more free time to travel to some better local spots (Plum Island, etc.).

All shots taken handheld, first two with the bare lens on an overcast, drizzly late afternoon (note the ISO used), the third on a sunny day (only one this week!) with the 1.4x III, and the last one

Thanks for looking!


EOS 1D X, EF 600mm f/4L IS II USM, 1/320 s, f/4, ISO 6400


EOS 1D X, EF 600mm f/4L IS II USM, 1/250 s, f/4, ISO 6400


EOS 1D X, EF 600mm f/4L IS II + EF 1.4x III Extender, 1/640 s, f/5.6, ISO 100

...and one bonus shot, the first one I took with the new lens. It was pouring rain and dark outside, so I decided to treat it as an indoor portrait lens. This one is with the 1D X, f/4, 1/160 s, ISO 10000 and handheld.

What i have encontered is this. In P with auto iso f is alway as small as the lens (24-105) f comes with 4.0. If i want less dof i turn the wheel for lets say f11 than shutter time gets greater. Mostly so high its impossible to hold the camera still.
I wonder why shuttertime is raising and not iso.
That is what i want. Does anybody n
Knows how to setup the camera that iso raises instead of shutterspeed.
Thanks in advance

Hi guys I'm using a 500d with 17-40L and have just started using LEE nd

Il explain first ..
I meter the scene, meter the sky see the diffrence in shutter speeds and work out the filtration to use

Put the filters on and walah nothing the sky is still overexposed

What am I doing wrong please!

I wanted a lightweight backup for either my 5D2 (landscape) and 7D (sports) since neither is a good backup for the other. So I purchased the SX50HS with a 30 day money back guarantee and I just finished my first day with it. The AF is pretty fast and image stabilization and auto frame assist works very well on the long end. I've been shooting in auto mode to get a feel for handling the camera. I've been shooting exclusively with DSLRs with grips since my 20D and BG-E2. The smaller, lighter feel and zooming via a lever takes some getting used to. I'll get into the creative modes and settings next week when I pop into NYC.

So, this problem has come up from working in nightclubs, where I am trying to get a night exposure for a human subject in the foreground, but have a shutter speed of around 1/30 or so for the ambient background.

I have toyed around with a couple of variations, each coming close to what I would like, but nothing bang on the nail.

Ideally I would like to have control of my aperture and shutter speed, and have the camera work out the ISO for me. The first problem I encounter is once I have mounted my flash (as this point I feel I should talk equipment. 5D3, 16-35 MK2 L, 24-70 MK2 L & EX 580 2) the auto ISO options become constrained. I have read into this a little, and have found a couple of ways around it.

Option 1... I set my ISO 4000, I set the shutter speed 1/60-1/200 and get the choice of aperture I want. Fine, except if I don't want my ISO higher than 4000, but I do want my shutter speed a little longer, say around the 1/25-1/30 mark.

Option 2... I set the Shutter speed to whatever I want 1/30 or whatever, have the auto ISO on (normally locked out at 400 max) but with the safety shift on ISO, with the ISO parameter set to a max of 6400. The problem with this is I don't like having the lens wide open. Drunk people in clubs tend to sway, and the fine depth of field result, inevitably, in people swaying out of the sweet spot. Plus on the 16-35 f4 is noticeably sharper than f2.8.

Option 3... I set the aperture at f4 on Av mode, and have the minimum time value parameter set to 1/30. This seems to work perfectly, until you switch on the flash, at which point, it forgets all about the 1/30 minimum shutter, AND locks out the flash to ISO 400.

Can anyone think of a way to have my minimum aperture set to f4, whilst I retain control of the shutter speed, and have the auto ISO range up to 6400 (or at least higher than 400!)

Sorry if this seems a trivial question, but I can't for the life of me figure it out.

Many thanks

Hey Guys/Girls
I currently have a 5d iii and a 50mm 1.4 and a 70-200 f2.8 is ii. However, I don't have anything that is a 'walkaround lens' so here lies my dilemma. I recently went to the local camera store and tried out the Canon 24-70 ii and the vignetting wide open at 24mm was terrible, so I am considering maybe a 24mm 1.4 or a 24-70 or possibly even a 16-35.

I am open to any other suggestions of what lens to use as a walk around.

Thanks in advance

RC

Hey everyone! I am on the hunt for a second body and I am unsure of what will be the best for the money. I currently shoot a 5DMK3 and have a 40D as a second/spare. I shoot weddings 99% of the time. Here are my options I am looking into:

1DMKIII
5DMKII
7D
Possibly a 60D since they are dirt cheap :-\

Im really leaning towards the 1DMKIII but I would like everyones input as well before making the decision. Thanks!

After reading that the 1.4X Kenko PRO 300 DGX was autofocusing at f/8 with Canon super teles on 1D X Bodies, as well as reading the experiences of some who posted here with the 5D Mark III, I decided to go for it.
My TC arrived late this afternoon, and I decided to give it a try on my 100-400mmL. At 100mm, its a equivalent of f/6.3, and the 5D MK III indicates f/6.3.
I tried it indoors in fair-good light, and it autofocused smoothly and quickly. Then I zoomed out to 400mm which is f/8 equivalent, and I was pleased when it snapped into focus repeatedly.
Then, I decided to give it a tough test, and took it outdoors where it was rapidly becoming dark. This is the area where TC's usually fall flat. I zoomed out to 400mm on a far distant house with the sky still a little bid bright, and it did a fair job of autofocusing. slower, but suprisingly fast for the situation. The ISO level was 8000, but the image under exposed.
Then, I tried it without the sky in the background on my rose bush in deep shadows, but it would just hunt. This was a very dark area. Finally, I tried it on my bird feeder at ISO 12800, which was a correct exposure, and it smapped to focus quickly. I was amazed.
Its too late to do any more testing tonight, but I'll try testing other lenses and combinations as I can make time.
Already, I can say its worth the price over a Canon 1.4X MK II TC as long as you do not need weather sealing.

Hi all,

First post here, but have been visiting this site for a few years now. I'm a happy owner of a Canon 7D and 2 Canon lenses (24-105, and a 60mm EF-S macro), a Sigma (10-20mm f/4-5.6) and the Tamron mentioned in the subject. I've had the Sigma and Tamron for almost a year, and the others for a bit longer. So they're all pretty new, as am I to the photography scene. I've been really happy with my gear except for the Tamron.

After getting it late last year, I initially thought it was pretty impressive, especially for the price. But after using it a while and comparing photos taken with it, to my L series 24-105, I was routinely disappointed with the sharpness I was getting. I took a lot of outdoors, nature photos with it, often of birds and flowers/landscapes. Most of them were OK, but none of them really popped the way my other lens(es) did.

This problem got noticeably worse the first time I did any high speed/action shooting. At the time, I was using a 500D (Rebel T1i) and a 40D. On both bodies, I started getting errors (ERR 01) and had to turn the cameras off and on again, just to continue shooting. Any photos I was able to get were pretty disappointing in terms of sharpness.

So off to the service department for this particular online retailer (DWI) it went. Much to my irritation, they couldn't find anything wrong with it and after a 7 week wait, it came back, with no information regarding a repair of any sort. Strangely, I didn't run into the "ERR 01" though. By this time I'd sold my two older bodies and bought a 7D so perhaps the newer camera helped (though I doubt it).

I was hesitent to use the lens, thinking it'd just let me down again but eventually took it out for a session at a nearby airport. Lots of panning, AI Servo shots later (with VC mostly on to help with the 100 to 200 shutter speed I was using), I realised there was a new problem - an annoying buzzing/knocking sound every time the VC disengaged. The few times I still had the camera to my eye, I noticed the image jumping around like crazy as an added part of the noise.

I had never noticed this issue before in the few months I'd used the lens.

So I made another warranty claim with my online retailer.

A few days later I was having a closer look at the problem and decided to take the lens off the body and give it a gentle shake. To my surprise, I noticed what looked to be the VC lens group, freely rattling around inside the lens body. The action of this "wobble" was so obvious, I decided to take a short video with my iPhone. I posted it up on youtube both to get comments from the public, as well as to document it for the service center I'd be using.

A second video was made through the viewfinder, to show the bouncing and noise, after the VC disengages.

The videos are here:
Wobble with the lens off the body http://youtu.be/0s3XJwx1cIo
Bouncing/noisy VC disengage http://youtu.be/bQRTmV3e43I

After the service guys viewed the videos and a few email exchanges to explain the problem in depth later, to my surprise, the service department declaired this "problem" as normal! Needless to say, I disagree.

So here's my question - can anyone with experience with Tamron VC lenses, tell me if this sort of thing strikes you as "normal" or if you've had similar experiences?

The bottom line with this lens and this experience is that I'm left with a lens I don't trust and one that routinely seems to let me down. It's inconsistent, routinely soft, and based on lots of reviews I've read from others who own and love this lens, it really looks like there's something wrong with it.

Thoughts and comments are greatly appreciated!

Hello all,

I've noted of late that my JPGs made on-camera with my 5D3 are not quite of the quality that I'd expect. Sometimes I'm seeing softer edges, other times I am seeing patchy noise reduction effects. RAW files (unsharpened, not noise reduced) did not see these effects.

Perhaps backing this up, DPReview claimed the IQ of the 5D3's RAW shots was excellent, but that the IQ of the JPGs was lacking:
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/canon-eos-5d-mark-iii/26

So, I was wondering if you have had to tweak some things for best on-camera JPG results. I keep auto lighting optimizer off completely, but I was wondering in light of the DPReview comments that I should completely shut down High ISO noise reduction as well.

Also, are there other settings you've tweaked on-camera to improve JPG image quality?

Thanks!

- A

This topic has been moved to Third Party Manufacturers.

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=9942.0

Hello! This is my first post here so I hope this is a good spot for me to post it

Is there a way to set a custom function to quickly move into 61pt AF? A wedding photographer posted a video about how he set his depth of field button to do that in case he felt he needed to get a shot quickly.

I see that I can set the DOF button to go from one shot to AI servo, but this guy sounded more like it was actually moving to the 61ptAF mode.

This is the video if anyone is interested.

http://www.annaandspencer.com/blog/blog-posts/geeking-out-on-gear/geeking-out-on-gear-episode-6-5d-mark-iii-3-auto-focusing-and-point-selections/