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Canon Rumors · Apr 9, 2012

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<strong>Why?


</strong>A lot of stuff has come into the inbox as to why the 1D X has been delayed yet again (Canon has yet to make it official). We’re hearing a late June or early July arrival of the camera.</p>
<p>The latest and best information I have says the camera is delayed due to issues with an accessory. It could be the wifi add-on for the camera.</p>
<p><strong>1D X autofocus performance


</strong>The good news is the AF system on the 1D X is being called the “best” and “fastest” system on any current DSLR, this includes the new Nikon D4 and Canon 5D Mark III.</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

Apr 9, 2012

Need some help here, I imported my shiny new 5DIII RAW files into Lightroom 4. The first screengrab below shows a zoomed-in region (evening sky) inside Lightroom of the unprocessed RAW file. It looks like there are only really two tones, sort of imagined the bit depth would be much greater? The situation becomes even more noticeable on jpg export when I get the subsequent horrifying result. Can anyone clue me in as to what's going on? I of course have no camera jpgs for comparison, I've been a RAW shooter forever and never had any such trouble with my 5DII...

(Camera settings: ISO 50, 24mm, f/11, 30 sec. Also observed for ISO 100, 200, etc.)

Apr 9, 2012

Sorry if this has been covered before but I am wondering since the Mark III has been released if the future of the 5D II is limited or will they continue to produce them. Has Canon announced this yet or?

mjbehnke · Apr 9, 2012

I've seen a few 1.4x Canon tele (series 1) units on e-bay and am wondering if they are any better than the Kenko 1.4 pro or is the Canon 1.4 II Better? I cannot afford the series 3. I'm using the 60D with a 70-200 f4L IS.

So, I real question is: Canon 1.4 tele series 1 or Series II, or the Kenko Pro 300 DGX?

Thanks,
mjbehnke

cayenne · Apr 9, 2012

Hello all,

For my first Canon, I've posted before, I'm getting the kit 24-105 lens (5Dmk3 body).

I'm looking for bang for my buck prime lens to go with this...on a budget.

I just came across the Canon EF 28mm f/1.8 USM out there....can be had for about $550

I had almost convinced myself to to the slightly higher route for the Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 USM, as that I'd heard this was almost on par with a "L" lens, but that it was much faster than many other lenses, but was sharp...etc. And I read it was a classic "bang for the buck" lens in the $420 price range.

So, now...I'm stuck, and don't know which way to go. I was starting to think wider angle...might be better for shooting some video, especially for cooking and stuff where you're shooting close up things (chopping, etc).

I'm researching myself into confusion and inaction at this point. I just dunno what to get....

I'm wanting to purchase all online and at the same time, to take advantage of 12 mos no interest payments...so, not like I can buy the body, and then the lens...I'm trying to get the best I can from research and reviews...

I know...not the best way, but economically, hoping I can get what I need.

Anyway, opinions and suggestions please? I'm not only looking for video, but best set up for stills too...at least for the first year after purchase.

Thanks in advance,

cayenne

Apr 9, 2012

Ok so here's a little about what I currently use; 5d3, 24-70L and 70-200 2.8 IS II. I shoot weddings and portraits.

My friend has a 70-200 f/4 IS and is selling for a next to nothing price, it's to good an opportunity to pass up.

My thoughts are to sell my 70-200 and use that money for an 85mm 1.2 II and then buy the 70-200 f4 IS as my zoom
OR
to buy the 70-200 f/4 IS and sell for a profit and use that money towards a 50mm 1.4 + BG-11 and keep my 70-200 2.8 IS II

I'd like to know your thoughts, is there anyone out there who would trade up their 70-200 2.8 IS II for an 85mm 1.2 II and use the 70-200 f/4 IS as their zoom?

Apr 9, 2012

just like the subject, what custom functions are you using with the new 5d???

Apr 9, 2012

I've gone through and tried af fine tuning. Tried turning it off. Etc. Here's my issue with my 5d Mark iii camera that I want so desperately to love. Maybe I have a dud? I dunno? I will put the camera on a tripod, point it at a brick wall and focus and shoot, and sometimes it will nail it, and sometimes it will be dreadfully soft. I'm using the center point. I've tried all different focusing modes, and I'm shooting a very contrasty (should be easy to focus on) brick wall. Again, it's about 50/50. Sometimes it nails it. Other times it locks on very fast, which is great. I take the shot, zoom in and see how ugly soft the image is.

The reason I'm even doing these test is I've taken it on two engagement shoots so far. And have seen this issue. There will be times when it will lock SOLID on exactly what I'm trying to focus on, I'll take the shot and it's awfully soft. Other times it was doing great. So I was thinking it was user error until I set up these very controlled tests shooting at a brick wall. I'm shooting with nice L lenses as well. Any help? What would you do? Would you send it in? Would you return and just get a new one?

Marsu42 · Apr 9, 2012

Leaving nuclear holocaust, floods and earthquakes aside - I'm wondering why Canon is so slow actually rolling out updated versions of their legacy lenses. There seems to be no short supply of patents, and they released several 70-200 versions. But: A weather-sealed 35L, 50mm without focus breathing or micro usm anyone?

If I knew, I'd probably be less surprises which of the rumored lenses actually arrive... if anyone has any other suggestions than the ones I came up with, please let us know.

HurtinMinorKey · Apr 9, 2012

http://www.eoshd.com/content/7767/canon-c300-versus-arri-alexa-on-game-of-thrones

Interesting read.

Apr 9, 2012

Good afternoon,

I bought a 5D Mark III a short while ago, and noticed on all my pictures (short and long exposures, different lenses, etc...) 5 or 6 pixels were showing up as bright white. I ran a manual sensor clean for one minute (says to do it in the manual), and all the hot pixels are gone. I have no interest at all in returning the camera because it works perfectly after the manual sensor cleaning. I am looking for some feedback from others more experienced than me with buying new camera backs (I've only bought 2 in the past 6 years including the 5DIII).

I google searched and see that hot/stuck pixels are easy to clean using the manual sensor clean.. I can't help wondering though - Is it worth any concern to have hot pixels right out of the box BEFORE I ran a manual sensor clean on my new 5D Mark III? What is really going on here? Does this frequently happen during shipping between warehouses/stores, or is it packed in the Canon factory with this mild-but-annoying issue? I'd love a Canon rep to weigh in on this...

Apr 9, 2012

So I just received my 5D3, love everything about it, but had one idea that I can't seem to make work how I wanted, so I present it here:

The plan is to use an Eye-Fi card in the SD and send jpegs over to my iPhone linked in direct mode while I'm out shooting for instant upload to facebook, twitter, insta.. whatever. I don't want every shot to be a jpeg, just want to be able to choose a photo here and there to send to the iPhone. I figured out the one shot RAW+jpeg thing and tied that function to the M.Func button and that works beautifully, I can shoot all RAW and then decide the my next shot should be a jpeg, press the M.Func button, shoot and I have a RAW+ jpeg recorded, then the camera goes right back to shooting RAW only. The next step is to have RAWs recorded to the CF card and jpegs recorded to the Eye-Fi SD. This I figured out pretty easily as well but when setting the record separately function on the cards I lost the ability to do the one shot RAW+jpeg thing, the camera shoots a jpeg and a RAW on every shot (not what I wanted).

Next I thought I could outsmart this problem by using the custom setting modes on the main dial (C1,C2,C3) and tie one of the modes to only shoot jpegs and use card 2 (Eye-Fi SD) instead of my default card 1 (CF). This way if I was in the field and decided my next shot should be a jpeg for instant sharing on my iPhone, I just spin the main dial to C1, shoot, then turn the dial back to whatever mode I was shooting in. The quality setting of jpeg is setable to a custom preset mode (C1) but the card onto which to record seems not to be... Canon if you're listening maybe a firmware update? Anyway, if anyone here has suggestions on how to accomplish this one off jpeg to an SD card idea I would love to hear your thoughts. Thanks!

Canon Rumors · Apr 9, 2012

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<strong>T4i Soon?


</strong>A large retailer in the US is showing the Rebel T3i as “discontinued” in their stock system. Could the arrival of the T4i be around the corner?</p>
<p>We have <a href="http://www.canonrumors.com/2012/03/whats-next-a-general-breakdown/" target="_blank">previously been told</a> the T4i would come with a new 18-135 IS lens that has a silent autofocus motor, along with a unique and inexpensive 40mm f/2.8 pancake.</p>
<p>Everything has been silent since then.</p>
<p>Canon is having a technical dinner next Monday at NAB in Las Vegas, it’s rumoured they will be talking about the new 4K DSLR camera. I can’t imagine it would be for a Rebel.</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

Apr 9, 2012

Anyone here upgrade from a T3i (or T2i) to a 5D Mark III? I currently own a T3i and am wondering what the differences would be. I don't like shotting above ISO 800 (and oftentimes above 400) in RAW and am curious as to what the equivilent roughly in the 5DIII. I went to a local photo shop and took some test shots comparing the two and from my rough unscientific test, I felt that the 5D's lower ISO's were much better, but 1600 was roughly the same as my 800. Anything below 800 on the 5DIII was much better than my T3i. So I know this may seem like a noobish question, but...

What other benefits are you guys noticing over your old crop bodies when upgrading to the 5DIII? Is the general IQ much better at low ISO's comapred to your old crop bodies with the same lenses?

MarkB · Apr 9, 2012

I got my 5d III the week before last. I am sure both those organizations got one from at least the first shipped batch. Why is it taking so long to come out with anything other than a preview? Are they running into issues?

I am pretty happy with the 5d3, although the wife is a little mad about the price.

I am really curious about how low the DXOMark score will be and if it is causing them to rethink their test. I just think they might worry it would damage what credibility they have if the nikon 800 had a 95 and the 5d3 had a 85 or so. They clearly are not that far apart unless the Nikon lenses are really holding them back. I don't think that is the case given he zeiss comparisons Lensrentals did.

Apr 9, 2012

camera: 5dM2
Flash: 580 EX2
lens: 70-200 f/4 L IS USM

Question: I need a wide zoom or possibly prime wide angle for indoor shots of interior, groups of people, etc. I can't afford the 24-70II and my hands are not the most still and IS really helps me out when the I stop down and in certain instances don't use my flash but was wondering if I should get the original 24-70L 2.8 or possibly a third party brand, a canon prime, etc? The function of this lens will be at events where generally depth of field will not be much of an issue and most likely shooting at f/8 or f11 for maximum clarity and sharpness. I have my 70-200 at f4 for more isolating shots and thinner dof portraits. Of course the 16-35L looks real attractive to hit every wide focal point and then keep my 70-200 for portraits? It's just, with the 24-70 I can get a wide and then not have to switch lens to possibly get off a portrait shot if need be at 70? (only carrying one body on me)

Many Thanks!

Any recommendations or suggestions greatly appreciated?

aprotosimaki · Apr 9, 2012

This may sound like an odd question but it is one that has bugged me for some time. Here is an example scenario.

Using a 5d2 and a 24-105L lens, I want to use the hyperfocal distance for 35mm at f/8. I know that it is approximately 17 feet.

So it seems to me that I have two choices.

1. Using the lens' distance markings I can manually set the focus distance to be 17 feet and take the picture. This is tricky because the markings are a little off but assume that I have set it accurately.

2. Using an object that I know is measured to be 17 feet from the lens I can use AF, focus on it and take the picture.

Should there be any difference in acceptable sharpness or is it the same thing? I guess the easiest way for me to tell is to test it out. I am just not very good at determining distance by eye so the AF approach runs the risk of mistake but at least I am guaranteed that there will be some plane of sharpness, even if I focus on an object not exactly at the hyperfocal distance.

Apr 9, 2012

I am looking to buy a T2i body in the month or so

anyone have any ideas whether or not the T2i would see any price reductions.

Seeing as the 60D is just around the corner, i figured the two models are fairly similar, a price change may help to differ each from one another.

I don't think i can afford the 7D, unless that too may see a big price drop.

Also, I live in the Toronto Area, if anyone knows where i can get the best price around here that would be great!

Thanks

www.gostyleshop.com

www.af1outlet.com

KurtStevens · Apr 9, 2012

I'm having a problem. I went out shooting tonight on my 5d3, 16-35 and shot 270 shots and stacked them of the stars. I batched out low res the first time and stacked using startrails and got this checkerboard pattern at 100%. I re-batched full res copies out using LR4.1 and stacked manually using photoshop and got the same problem. See the examples below. Can you offer any advice?

from first batch: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1637319/Capture3.JPG
from the second batch: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1637319/Capture4.JPG
final image merged: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1637319/capture5.jpg
(notice in the final image the banding bottom right)

Settings for these shots were f/2.8 iso 640, 10 seconds per shot

ANY ideas at all? Is this my post processing? Individual shots look perfectly clear and normal, unless there is one that is adding a checkerboard pattern to the image as a whole but i looked at a ton of them and nothing.

:|

Apr 9, 2012

I'm just posting this as a FYI for those of you who have wondered how much better the image quality of the 5D Mark III is over the 5D Mark II:

http://www.ronmartblog.com/2012/04/canon-5d-mark-ii-vs-mark-iiiimage.html

I'd say substantial! The 5D Mark II was an awesome sensor, but Canon has really hit this one out of the park in every possible way except for the price!

Apr 9, 2012

Argggghh Confusion!

I'm sure my stupidity is only momentary (or I hope so anyway).

What is the real focal length gap between the 24-105 and the 10-22 (e.g. 22-24)?

I know it not that hard a sum; and 'Yes' to some bright spark, I know the answer isn't 2

I think it's more complicated than that?....... .........Or is it?

Thanks for your help here guys

-The Numerically Dyslexic Dyspraxic-

Tcapp · Apr 9, 2012

So after shooting my first wedding with my new 5d3 and my old 5d2 at my side... I loved it. I barely touched my 5d2. You know what kept the 5d3 in my hand most of the time? Of all things, it was the duel card slots. That, and the AF. I wasn't even concerned about IQ. I shot jpegs to the SD card so my client could put up a slideshow of the after ceremony portraits during the reception. They loved it!

So there you have it! I don't give a rats rear about not having improved low iso DR or what have you. The camera is just way more functional.

One complaint I do have though, is that the rear LCD's auto brightness feature seems kinda screwy in bright sunlight. It doen't like to get bright enough to be viewed, so I had to switch to manual. Not a huge deal, but annoying. I guess it might be because im used to resting my thumb below the screen when i view it, and that is fine on the 5d2, but they moved the light sensor on the 5d3 to right next to the thumb. WTF Canon?

Photos to follow!

CanonGrunt · Apr 8, 2012

Hello.

I bought the 100 L Macro IS USM and I have found that it rattles on the inside. When you pick it up you can hear something hitting the sides. Someone told me that this was the hybrid IS, but it seems way too excessive to me. Thoughts? Any one else have this problem?

Thank you for your input!

keithfullermusic · Apr 8, 2012

First off, I want a 5Diii like woah. You don't need to tell me that it's sweet and that I should get one. So here goes...

I am a poor grad student. I make some money on the side creating websites and doing odd jobs now and then, but nothing that is bringing in the big bucks. I am basically a full-time student with lots of free time on my hands when I'm not studying and taking classes.

Currently, I own a 50D, which I love. I would love to start doing some event photography and possibly weddings and things like that. If I were to do so I really think I would need a FF with good high ISO capabilities. Even the though the 50D is great, it just won't cut it for things like that as a primary body.

If you are just starting out, what can you expect to charge for events and weddings? If I think I can make $3,500 in a reasonable amount of time I will go ahead and pull the trigger. I will also point out that my fiancé is a great photographer and she would probably go with me and take pictures at the same time to double our shots and perspectives.

Right now I have glass that I am totally happy with (20mm 2.8 - which will be fairly wide on a FF and has a great look on a crop, a 50mm 1.8 - not the best 50mm, but still a sweet lens, a 100mm 2.8 - great macro and portrait lens, and a 100-400L - probably won't be used at events), as well as light (430EXii & YN560), and other extras (tripod, gels, mini bounce, timers, wireless, etc.)

Any real world feedback would be highly appreciated. Thanks.

Apr 8, 2012

Any idea of when/if there will be a PW firmware update to make them compatible? Max sync speed with 5d Mark III is 1/200, which isn't all that useful. Thanks.

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Canon has no clue at all what their customers want and just reacts to other manufacturer's releases

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T3i Showing up \

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T3i (or T2i) to 5D Mark III

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Why so long on the DXOMark and DPReviews?

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Help with event lens ( weddings, anniversary's, etc)

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