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My first attempt with the 5d III and shooting 60fps

so this is my very first video i shot with the 5d, and i decided to try out the 60fps since i didn't have it on the mark II. however there were a couple issues that i ran into:
1. shooting by myself, it was a lil difficult to know what i was shooting and if it was infact in focus
2. the editing got big, i ended up with a 30 gb video cuz i didn't know what formats to use.
3. i should have used better lighting.
4. twixtor and the smoke didn't really mix so i had to just use just regular slow motion

Smoking With a Canon 5D Mark III TEST HD

anyways, this was my first attempt, and i can't wait to get some time to actually start doing some cool stuff, because the one thing that I've learned is that this camera can do a lot, if the results aren't great that falls on me...

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MKIII 60 FPS Slow Mo HELP

Here is a test I put together real quick with shooting at 60fps at 1/2000th shutter speed and the results didnt come out clean. I tried a few different methods in post to see if I can get some of the Morphing out of the shots. For these particular shots I need to up the shutter speed to atleast 1/4000th or maybe even 1/6400th or 1/8000th. I will try some test on water splashing or even skateboarding to try and try to get better results.

I used the crumplepop method of slowing down the footage in Motion because I dont have much knowledge of Twixtor nor do I want to buy it.

Canon 5D MKIII: 60fps Slow Mo Test

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Waterproof Your Camera - What's best?

I will very soon have to take shots where my camera and I will get very wet. I am not talking about rain, but buckets of cold water - often with ice and/or talcum powder in it - thrown all over you from every direction.

I need to minimise the risk to my camera - a 50D for the stills. What do you recommend?

I do not have a lot of time to order stuff online, so it really is going to be a homemade solution.

I was thinking of using multiple plastic bags around the body tied off at the bottom, with more to protect the lens/body connection and a microfiber cloth to wipe the lens.

I will of course be trying to minimise any camera risk by hiding, and also taking long range shots, but chances are I will get drenched at least once.

Thanks.

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File time errors on 5DmkIII body

I have a new 5DmkIII body and simultaneously used it with a 7D body for 3 weddings to date, shooting some photos with one camera then switching to take some shots with the other and back again, some shots being taken within seconds of each other on the two different cameras. There seems to be an issue with the 5DmkIII recording the accurate capture/creation times on the files. So far, all 3 weddings have shown the same problem, the 5DmkIII files are showing earlier creation times compared to the 7D files. I've never had any problems with the 7D syncing up with other cameras (I have a 1DmkIII and a 40D that I previously used at weddings together with the 7D, all 3 of those cameras sync up just fine). The time difference seems to vary, I've seen shot times vary between the two cameras from just over a minute to 4-5 minutes difference, when they should be no more than seconds apart, with the 5DmkIII files showing earlier creation times than the 7D. I have more files to examine in terms of the differences, but so far I'm not seeing a consistency with the differences, and the internal camera clocks have been and remain in sync with the clock I set them by (my computer which I check against Time.gov online). I've checked the cameras before and after each wedding, and they have yet to be more than 1 second out of sync with each other. I've also checked the CR2 files on the CF card, and the JPGs on the SDHC card, and they both match times, so it's not a file type issue with the 5DmkIII.

I'm thinking there is some kind of error within the camera when checking the clock to write the creation times on the file. I've seen other owners have mentioned this problem on some other forums, so I'm not alone it seems. I haven't seen anyone mention the problem on this forum yet, so thought I'd mention it here.

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Another 5D3 video thread.. help a 'forced' Nikonian decide which way to upgrade?

Hey guys,

I've been a reader of Canon Rumors for awhile now, first time posting.

I've been using a D7000 for some minor video projects. I was in a good position to go for it when it was released because of its strong video capabilities (for Nikon...), and also because my father had already invested in good Nikon glass decades ago and they were just sitting around in his closet:

A 28mm f2.8: http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/28mm-f28-ai.htm
A 135mm f2.8: http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/135f28.htm
A 50mm f1.4: http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/50f14ai.htm

From that standpoint, the D7000 was a clear choice for my first video DSLR. I've been shooting with it for awhile now, and have three qualms:
- all of my lenses are full-frame lenses
- very annoyed with poor ISO performance... falls apart very quickly
- no 60fps

The obvious contenders for my money right now are the D800 and the 5D3 - both of which look more than promising. I would be using this upgrade as strictly a video camera.

Some examples of stuff I've been doing with the D7000:
http://youtu.be/2UMDxO7nDok?hd=1

http://youtu.be/CiiYBYlf09w?hd=1

http://youtu.be/-2SuulPR8ik?hd=1


Here's my dilemma: the ISO performance on the D800 does not look much better than the D7000's, and I am really struggling with the noise at the higher ISOs. That probably says something about my shooting style - I rarely use lights and shoot in low light pretty frequently. The price difference between upgrading to a D800 vs. upgrading to the 5D3 in my position is pretty massive... what should I do? What other factors should I be looking at? Is the ISO performance on the D800 going to continue to be a hindrance to me?

Another related question I have is whether or not using adapters to use my Nikon glass on a 5D3 is a no-no. What adapters would you recommend? Is this completely out of the question? It would definitely soften the blow on the wallet if it were a viable option. To buy equivalent L series glass, plus a 5D3... I would be able to afford the D4 at that point, wouldn't I?

What would you do in my position?

Thanks for reading, would really appreciate any input you have to give.

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First real shoot with 5D MK iii

A few days back I got the opportunity to take the 5D MK iii out on a real shoot. This made a great change compared to my pixel peeping and wandering about shots trying to assess the performance.

In summary I found the camera absolutely fantastic besides for it not supporting Pocket Wizards. I actually thought it did support them as I did a quick test at home but out in the field discovered that the flash emits the same low power regardless of settings. So hopefully PW come up with a FW update soon.

The focussing of the camera is the biggest bonus in m opinion. Each and every shot is dead on. No more doubt like there is with the 5D Mk ii. Of course the low light performance wasn't tested during this shoot but from other earlier shots I know it is excellent. The dual memory card slots gave me that added bit of peace of mind.

Looking forward to shooting my next wedding with this new machine!

Here are some shots from the shoot:

http://www.bellissimaphoto.co.uk/engagements/richmond-engagement-shoot-with-melina-tish.html

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Thoughts on some classics

Hi All

I'm looking to replace/add to my current telephoto lens an Old 70-300 II. I'm looking for something fast either a 200 f2.8 prime or the really old drain pipe 80-200 f2.8. I don't want to spend the money on the new 70-200 f2.8 or carry around a huge white lens.

I was wondering if anyone had any experience with the magic drain pipe or the 200 prime?

Thanks

Dan

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  • Poll Poll
The Light Leak Issue

Are the new 5D Mark III's being recalled?

  • Yes

    Votes: 6 42.9%
  • No

    Votes: 8 57.1%

HTML:
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<strong>Tested a few cameras


</strong>I went into the office today and did some tests on all the Canon DSLRs I had in stock and discovered a few things.</p>
<p>The biggest discovery I found with most of the cameras and the sunlight test is that just placing your thumb over the viewfinder isn’t enough. Bright light passes through the thumb without much issue. I discovered this when I used a folded piece of black fabric and stuffed that over the viewfinder. Most of the Canon cameras no longer had a “light leak” issue.</p>
<p>I tested with both the lens mounted with a cap on and with just the body cap on.</p>
<p>These tests were done in direct bright sunlight.</p>
<div id="attachment_9466" class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 585px"><a href="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/lightleak.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-9466" title="lightleak" src="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/lightleak-575x431.jpg" alt="" width="575" height="431" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">The cameras I used for testing. I even mounted the same model lens on all the bodies, the 24 f/1.4L II.</p></div>
<p><strong>Canon EOS 60D


</strong>I tested 2 bodies and found no issue once I placed the folded black fabric over the viewfinder. No change with backlight on.</p>
<p><strong>Canon EOS 7D


</strong>I tested 2 bodies and found no issue once I placed the folded black fabric over the viewfinder.  No change with backlight on.</p>
<p><strong>Canon EOS 5D Mark II


</strong>I tested the one body I have in stock. This camera exhibited the same issue as the 5D Mark III in direct sunlight, however the backlight didn’t affect exposure. I also did the flashlight test that is mentioned below and nothing changed in exposure.</p>
<p><strong>Canon EOS-1D Mark IV – Body #1


</strong>There was an ever so slight shift in exposure with the viewfinder cover down.  10 seconds out of the sun, 8 seconds in the sun. I stuffed the viewfinder with the black fabric and there was no change. The variance in exposure went away if I wrapped the LCD with the black fabric and only left enough space to see the exposure number. No change with backlight on.</p>
<p><strong>Canon EOS-1D Mark IV – Body #2


</strong>This body exhibited no movement in exposure. No change with backlight on.</p>
<p><strong>Canon EOS 5D Mark III


</strong>I only have one body to test for the moment, however it exhibits the shift in exposure  with the backlight turned on.</p>
<p>Once I placed the black fabric over the viewfinder instead of my thumb, the variance in exposure decreased in direct sunlight. However it was still present. Out of direct sunlight, the camera metered 10 seconds, in the direct sunlight the camera metered 1 second.</p>
<p>The final test I did with the 5D Mark III was take the lens cap off and meter off a relatively neutral wall. I turned on the backlight and nothing changed. I then pressed a 130 lumen flashlight up against the top LCD and the exposure didn’t change. I also ran the flashlight around the camera body and absolutely nothing changed.</p>
<p><strong>So why do things change with the caps on?


</strong>I have no idea, none, ziltch!</p>
<p><strong>So is this an issue?


</strong>On the body I tested, it doesn’t appear to be. If the camera acts properly with the lens cap off, who cares how it acts with the caps on? So please don’t return your 5D Mark IIIs, or cancel preorders or overreact. This “issue” may have a simple explanation.</p>
<p>However, if Canon says something is wrong, I apologize…… it just doesn’t appear there is an issue to me.</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

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Bugs with the 5D III ?!

Hi Guys,
I'm now using my 5DIII for 2 weeks and discovered some issues.

1. With the Savety Shift set to ISO, and assigned the Set Button + Main dial to set the ISO speed, you won't be able to set the ISO down using the Set button + main dial when the picture would be overexposed and the savety shizzle skips the iso speed.

2. Not really important but it probably sucks the batterie faster empty...
When you set the mode dial to one of the custom functions (c1-c3) it will activate the backlight (for a second or so) of the main display when you switch between the modes.

And what i will also post under light leaking thread is...that it works also with lens on (lenscap still on) ...and a flashlight pointed on the upper lcd. That also effects the exposure. That isn't true for my 7D.

whould be nice to know if i'm the only one with that "problems".

Cheers Rob

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AIFocus works!

Ok, so I have been re-educating myself as the jump from the 300D to the 5D3 is bigger than I imagined (silly me!). So after figuring out how to shoot without a fill in flash :), I decided it was time to check out AIFocus. A dragonfly obliged by dashing back and forth overhead (above the terrace). I had 5 tries and one was decent. I would have had more I guess if I had set it for continuous shooting I would have got more keepers - I typically set it at one shot so this is a learning... Here it is.

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Error 80 - 5D Mark III

Got this today while shooting out in 85 degree weather. I wonder if I'm the only one to get this on the new camera...

I popped the battery out and put it back in and all was well.

At the time I was shooting with my 100mm IS macro, which I have to admit, while it's sharp, is constructed like a piece of crap. It's been in for service once already due to the plastic IS mounts inside rattling around. I thought it was broken, but I guess that's just how an $1100 lens is supposed to sound. :p

Not sure if it's due to the lens, memory card, camera, etc.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

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$1200 for Lens to shoot video

Hey guys,
I'm going to be getting a 5D Mark II soon after breaking my old 500D, and will be getting some new lenses as well. About $2000 will be spent on the body so I have about $1200 for lenses. I mainly shoot video but still do photography when I'm travelling around. About 80% video and 20% photography. Right now I'm deciding on two options.

I could go with 3 primes. Canon 28mm 1.8, Canon 50mm 1.4 and Canon 85mm 1.8 which would cover most of the lengths that I'd shoot with. Or I could go with the Canon 24-70mm 2.8.

I'm not too sure which option would be best. Obviously the primes would have better DOF and more capable in low light conditions but I lose versatility. Also I'm not sure if those primes necessarily produce better quality images/video just because they are primes, than L lens glass.

My question is, given my situation, which option would be best?

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RAW Codec not supporting 5D mkIII thumbnails in Windows Explorer

Getting info warning each time I plug in the 5D mkIII that Canon RAW Codec found a new CR2 file that is not supported by the installed version. When I click the link to the Canon Server http://pdisp01.c-wss.com/os/redirect?pr=ic-cc&id=rawcodec it offers no newer versions of my software. Yes I installed the software that shipped with the camera.

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Canon 50mm 1.2

Is this lens really as bad as people say it is? I've been going back and forth on it and it's reviews for a couple weeks now and you can't really seem to find a general consensus.

Some hate it, some love it. Back focus issues, no back focus issues. Unsharp images, sharp images.

I don't think I've ever read so many lens reviews that disagree with each other.

Anyone here have any comments, insights, criticism, feedback about this lens?

I would love to hear it. I had picked up the 85mm 1.2 and I really loved the images it produced, but for what I'm using it for it was too long and put me in to tight of situations to take the photo's I wanted to.

I had the 50mm 1.8 ii some time ago and I love that focal length. I previously had the zeiss 1.4 and I've read that the canon 1.2 is much better in terms of sharpness and bokeh.

I would love to hear some actual owners comment tho!

Thanks guys!

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