Last week, I made one of my regular trips to Scotland, near Inverness. One of my stopovers on the way up was at the spectacular Glencoe and for once, the weather was favourable, although it was overcast at dawn when for my planned trip to Buachaille Etive Mor, so I waited until later, when it had started to clear.


Sunlit River Coe by Kernuak (avalonlightphotoart.co.uk), on Flickr

Rowan by the Coe by Kernuak (avalonlightphotoart.co.uk), on Flickr

The Bog and Stob Dearg by Kernuak (avalonlightphotoart.co.uk), on Flickr

Hey all, I recently got a 5D Mark III and a 70-200mm. When shooting moving objects my photos are out of focus on the point of focus. Sometimes there's front focus and sometimes back. I tested the lens and it seemed to focus correctly. Any body have ideas what this could be? Could it be the camera? If it is the camera, why? Is there any way to fix this?

I accidentally saved an auto focus point somewhere on the right of my points and I cannot seem to remove it. I did this by holding down my AF selection button and pressing the LCD light button. I have tried saving it to my centre but now if I move individual points to the sides, the middle still flashes meaning it's saved.

I cannot find anything to do with this feature in the manual so any help would be great.


Thank you

Yesterday after months of debating I finally pulled the trigger and ordered a 5Dmklll from B&H. Got it today and all I can say is WOW. My first upgrade since my 40D (!) and they are worlds apart. After taking my first shot with it I am blown away and cant believe I waited so long. the focus is amazing. I think I will finally see the true potential of all the L lenses I have been collecting and cant wait to start playing this weekend.
so if there are any holdouts like me left out there, dont wait, buy this camera!

So, I'm a long-time lurker here on the forums. This is my first post, because I need the collective wisdom of the folks here. Here's the scenario:

A year ago, I returned to photography after several years away from it (long story), and decided it was time to make the move from film to digital. I sold all of my Pentax 645N gear and lenses, and picked up a 5D Mk II and several lenses. I knew at the time that I wasn't buying my "final" gear, but then, when is that ever true... Anyhow, in the past year, I've returned to the field to find an old passion rekindled - primarily in landscape/outdoor/architecture sorts of area. Obviously this means some low light/golden light photography; however, I do have a tripod and know how to use it, so 2.8 glass isn't perhaps required, even if I lust for it. I don't do any wedding photography, relatively little wildlife/birds, only the occasional portrait, and once in a while, a sporting event.

Now, I have an opportunity to spend a bonus. I've been very busy at work of late (it's non photographic), taking on several massive projects, working long hours etc. In what is a very flattering offer, my boss has asked me what I might like as a bonus, and we've settled on a solution - the company is prepared to buy me $8000 in photographic equipment, of my choosing. I don't expect I'll ever have this opportunity again, so I'd like to do this right the first time - hence, I come here for advice.

Here's what I have

• 5d Mark II
• 100 2.8 macro, non-IS
• 17-40mm f/4L Lens
• 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS
• 35 f2 (left over from a former career as a journalist)
• 200 f/2.8L (also from journalism, not the newest version - the version with the built-in hood

My wife allows me to use her 70-300 4.5-5.6 IS when I need a longer lens.

Now, here's the equipment I'm lusting after (Prices are B&H):

• 5D Mark III - $3460
• 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II - $2130
• 70-200mm f/4L IS - $1200
• 70-300mm f/4-5.6L IS - $1400
• 24-70mm f/2.8L II - $2300
• 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS - $1530
• 24mm f/3.5L II Tilt-Shift - $2000
• 180mm f/3.5L Macro - $1430

Here’s what I’m leaning toward:

• 24mm f/3.5L II Tilt-Shift - $2000
• 24-70mm f/2.8L II - $2300
• 70-200mm f/4L IS - $1200
• 5D Mark III - $3460

I’d dispose of:

• 5d Mark II
• EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM
• EF 35 f2)
• EF 200mm f/2.8L

And would end up with:

• 5d Mark IIi
• 24mm f/3.5L II Tilt-Shift
• EF 100 2.8 macro
• EF 17-40mm f/4L Lens
• 24-70mm f/2.8L II
• 70-200mm f/4L IS

So, here are my questions:

1. Should I spend half my funds on the upgrade to the Mark III? The images from the Mark II are lovely, and focusing speed or extreme low light hasn’t been my issue. I do find my images at 1600 ISO seem fairly noisy, but I don’t know whether the Mark III would be substantively better, often enough.
2. What’s the best mix of overlapping zooms? The 75-300 that my wife and I have been sharing is convenient, so in some ways just replacing that with L glass seems like a good choice – in others, I wonder about a 70-200 and 100-400 combo. Or maybe a 70-200 and a 1.4x converter...)
3. How much use will the Tilt/Shift get, really? (I know, that’s hard to quantify an answer)
4. If I keep the 100 Macro, which I love, will I really need the 180 macro?

Thanks for reading what got much longer than I intended, and for advice and comments!

I've read and heard many people say, "there's no way I'd ever put a $35 UV/Protection filter on the front of my $1800 L-series lens." I'd assume the reason for them saying this is that they don't want an optically inferior piece of glass ruining the quality they bought such an expensive lens for in the first place.

What seems to be overlooked however, is the fact that a flat, single element, optically neutral piece of glass is not going to cost that much to produce. Would you run a UV/Protection filter if they charged you $2000 for it? Would that be fair for a simple and straightforward piece of glass?

The last 5D Mark IIs are selling and after they are sold out Canon could just release a firmware update for the camera which implements the notorious AutoISO in M mode. How hard can it be? Who wants to write an open letter? My english ain't the best, I'll have to pass. :

So I've been doing some research and comparing different lenses on The Digital Picture's ISO comparison tool. What I am seeing is that the the same lens on both full frame and crop cameras shows a sharper image on the full frame camera. According to Ken Rockwell, he states that full frame will always be sharper. I know people don't like quoting him much, but from what I see, he appears to be right.

Here are a couple examples...

50mm 1.4
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=115&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=0&API=4&LensComp=115&CameraComp=736&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=0&APIComp=3

85 1.8
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=106&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=0&API=2&LensComp=106&CameraComp=736&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=0&APIComp=2

Is there something I'm missing here? Is the difference between the two cameras making a difference, or does full frame generally produce sharper results than crop using the same lens?

I know that these lenses are completely different, but I have the 35L and it almost never comes off of my body. I love it.

I shoot wedding, portraits, street photography... etc. etc. The 70-200 is great and all, I just never use it...

Should I sell it and get the 85mm 1.2 and then have the 35L, 85L & 24-70mm?

I'm open minded. Just looking for some opinions

I'm shooting a 5DMKii & 1vHS.

Hey Canonistas, I very much value your opinions and make most of my decisions through the experiences of others.

I'll keep it short. I shoot typically architectural and landscapes with the 5D3 but have been shooting soccer on the weekends with my 7D mainly for the extra reach and speed. I upload images to SmugMug for players and their families to view, print, purchase.

Here is the question: I can get a 1D4 body with 100K shutter count as a trade for my 7D with $2K attached. My 7D has about 40K shutter count. I think my biggest concern is the 100K shutter count on the 1D4. Replacing a shutter, I'm guessing, is about $300? If so, it might be a good investment to get faster speed and better low light capabilities.

Your thoughts on this would be very much appreciated.

Hi
I am currently in the African bush photographing leopards with a 1D Mk4.
Many of the shots require fill flash.
The use of a Speedlight locks the ISO at 400.
This limits exposure and shutter speed settings as you require a high shutter speed, more than 500, and depth of field, F5.6 or higher, to capture action shots.
Is there a cure for this?
The guys with the D4 Nikons have no hassles as Auto ISO stays Auto ISO, irrespective of flash usage, the flash listens to the camera and does not dictate to the camera as the Canon flash seems to be doing.
Does the 1DX support ISO for flash usage or does it also enforces ISO 400, meaning that I may have to shop on the dark side??

There are a lot of heated discussions about Canon versus SoNikon sensor DR performace, sensor technology, about DXO not measuring sensors correctlly in favour of Nikon etc.
So here is a simple DR stress test results for 1Dx shadow recovery limits for those who are interested:
I did these tests to see myself what is 1Dx is capable of.
Attached are 4 pictures (snapshots from LR4 screen by Win7 snipping tool):
1. 1Dx shot at ISO100 with EV = (-3 ) - showing 100% crop area shown below
2. Corrected with +3 EV in LR4, no shadow correction, no noise reduction applied
3. The same as #2 above with shadows raised to max 100%
4. The same as #3 above but with NR applied in LR with L=40, C=40.
Results are self explanatory - no further comments from me on this subject.
Despite for what we see here regarding 1Dx DR performance here my experience with 1Dx is very positive - almost perfect tool for low light sport and events shooting.
In daylight 1Dx images also look much cleaner and having more 3D look than 1DsM3 and 5DM2 that I used before (just my personal perception) and allow more image sharpening to be applied safely.
Also seems that 1Dx has a bit weaker anti-aliasing filter - with extreemly sharp 24-70 2.8L II I could see moire on some areas of ISO resolution chart where image elements (projected on sensor) become comparable in size with pixel size on camera sensor. I have not observed that with other lenses including very sharp 70-200 2.8L IS II

I am currently going to purchase a refurbished 60D body (my first DLSR) from the Canon Loyalty Program.

Should I just buy the $639 refurbished 60D body and get a refurbished Canon 50mm f/1.4 lens which is only $63 if I buy the body with it. This will leave me with one lens to use until I upgrade.

or

Should I buy the refurbished 60D with 18-135 IS Kit Lens for $839 and get the refurbished $63 Canon 50mm f/1.4 lens also so that way I would have two lens to use.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
They have a list of lens that I can choose from if you guys think the 50mm f/1.4 is not what I need. These lens will be 80% off the refurbished price if you buy it with the camera from the program. I can only buy one for the 80% off then after that other lenses will be 20% off.

EF 17-40 f4 L
EF 24-105 f4 L IS
EF 28-135 f3.5 IS
EF 50mm f1.4
EF 50mm f1.8
EF 70-200 f2.8L IS USM II
EF 70-300 f4-5.6 (Non-L)
EF 75-300 f4-5.6
EF 85mm f1.8
EFS 10-22 f3.5-4.5
EFS 18-135 f3.5-5.6 IS
EFS 18-200 f3.5-5.6 IS
EFS 55-250 f4-5.6 IS

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Then after that which lens is a good starter for filming. I heard the tamron 17-50mm f/2.8 is a good starter.

Oh and also is it a good idea to buy a refurbished lens or should I always buy new?

This is the Canon Loyalty Program thread if anyone is interested haha.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1088761/canon-loyalty-program-faqs-originally-from-potn that link is a bit outdated and this one isn't and always updated http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=948785 but you have to register to view it.
Thank You! - Richard ;D

A few pigeons have set up their home in my apartment. I photograph them every day.
Canon 7D
EXIF of both images.
Aperture-Priority AE
( Shutter Speed ) 1/1250
( Aperture Value ) 2.8
ISO Speed 100
Auto ISO Speed OFF
Lens EF70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM
Focal Length 200.0mm

As we all compare and complain about sensors, about softness of our lenses at the corners, about color accuracy, dynamic range and that pesky high ISO noise; I realized that a lot of iconic pictures were taken with more basic equipment, with a lot more blemishes and lot less detail…yet with a lot more staying power. A photograph is more than just high resolution or that mark II lens we stuff our bags with. Sorry pixel peepers, I know the pics I include are low res pulled off the net...but I am sure they are more recognizable than the ones we are all waiting to take with that future 1DX mark IV and that yet to arrive 24-70mm Mark VIII. The gear we have now is awesome be it Nikon or Canon… so just enjoy the shooting! P.S. This is just my short-lived reflective moment… I am sure soon I will be back to drooling over that 420MP Hassy they will be making in 2025.

I am told 5D Mark 2 + 24-70 F2.8 L lens is sharper than 60D + 17-55 F2.8 APSC. DXO Mark seems to agree on this. So I decide to do a test.

http://hkfreelancephotographer.com/canon-5d224-70l-vs-60d17-55-apsc/

I am sure this has been discussed before but I just can't figure out why the 5D3 focuses so slowly when the AF assist is enabled on my flash. Many times I have been at a wedding reception and I get frustrated with very slow focusing issues related to the AF assist beam. I have messed around with turning it on and off and there is a very noticeable difference. For example with my 70-200 as long as I find an area of some contrast it will focus almost instantly even dark situations. As soon as I turn it on it sometimes takes a full second or two to lock focus. I remember my 5D2 having improved focus with the AF assist from the 580exII. Is it a flash issue or a camera issue? I know there are a lot of you who have the same problems. Anyone find any solutions? Most of the time I don't need the AF assist but when it is pitch black and I need it it would be nice if I could focus a little faster. I just don't understand how the AF can be so great in almost all situations except this one area. Of course when I call CPS they claim they have never heard of an issue.

Hello everyone.

The 5DIII currently has a minimum shutter speed setting that you can register to prevent your shutter speed from dropping below a specific shutter speed.

Currently that shutter speed maxes out at 1/250th of a second.

This, in my opinion renders Auto-ISO fairly useless for shooters like myself who shoot frequently with 300mm and 600mm. This is not nearly a fast enough shutter speed for long lenses nor is it a fast enough shutter speed to freeze any sort of actions (sports, wildlife, birds in flight, planes etc...)

I do believe that canon listens to their customers (as is seen with the latest firmware update on the 1DX allowing for f8 autofucs) so for those of us in the community who have a 5DIII and would like to see this "min fast shutter speed" increased... lets make some noise.

I believe that the minimum fastest shutter speed setting should be much faster. At least through 1/2000 sec, but why not the entire range through 1/8000. Also the increments should be in 1/3 stop not just 1 full stop.

I emailed canon about this today as this feature is my only real complaint on this excellent camera. Canon emailed me back very warmly and the representative suggested that I keep watching for future firmware updates which may address this issue.

So: Write to canon or call, or post here that we would like to see 1/3 stop increments of minimum shutter speed registration all the way though the range that the shutter can handle.

Thanks and happy shooting!

Hi all,

I'm on a budget...and this is just for learning...light placement, etc....so figuring something like I've seen others do on DIY sites and all would be a good place to start.

I'm filming myself cooking....

Thinking of getting a few of the clamp on light fixtures from the hardware places like Lowe's or Home Depot.

I've seen that many are using the coiled up looking, CFL bulbs...and I was hoping someone might could tell me what to look for in terms of:

1. Color/Temperature
2. Wattage
3. Do some work more 'instant on' rather than having to warm up like many I've seen?
4. Brand matter?

What about LED bulbs? Any thoughts there...I've not seen many DIY sites showing them, guessing because they are still a bit more $$$ these days compared to CFLs.

Also, any recommendations on what to get to plug these all into....?

Thanks in advance,

cayenne

Hello
I found this offer on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0040X4PRW/ref=sr_1_2_olp?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1350590064&sr=1-2&keywords=canon+300+2.8&condition=used

What is to be thought of this? The same dealer had a 1Dx offered for less than 3k, claiming that it was in good shape. Can this be trusted? Does anyone have experience with such offers?

Thanks,
K

I know the version two is sharper, has better flare control, and better IS, etc. I am only concerned about the sharpness across the range. I can get a new/semi new version 1 for 1500usd and was wondering if version 2 (which is 2100usd) really makes that much of a difference in terms of sharpness? The lens will be paired with a 5DIII and will be used to shoot wildlife, portraits, events. No sports. Go for the version one or get version two?

I normally shoot studio/sports, but the other day decided to experiment with shooting into the sun.

Any C&C is greatly appreciated. I've always liked these kinds of shots and want to add it to my repertoire.

1:

IMG_8395 by chriskpham, on Flickr

2:

IMG_8476 by chriskpham, on Flickr

3:

IMG_8497 by chriskpham, on Flickr

4:

IMG_8444 by chriskpham, on Flickr

Is the version 1 sharp? What should I pay, one has showed up in a local CL for $2500 with the casing.

Hello - I'm planning to spend 2 weeks in South East Asia in December. I haven't set my itinerary yet but was thinking of splitting my time between HCMC, Angkor Wat, and Bangkok. I know that's not enough time to soak in all the culture and sights but I can't extend my trip and I really wanted to visit all three countries. That said, I am hoping to get some travel advice for that part of the world. I'm from NYC and I've previously been to Asia (Hong Kong, Japan, Singapore and Malaysia) but stuck to "safe" touristy areas. I'm hoping for a more local and "real" experience for this trip. Besides taking normal precautions and safeguards should I be worried at all about my photo gear?

This is what I have and what I'm thinking of bringing. I'm trying to travel light but would welcome any different suggestions:
7D
Tamron 18-270
5DmIII (taking)
24-105L (taking)
50L
430EXII
Gitzo GK1580TQR4 Tripod (taking)
Lee 2xND, Big Stopper, 2x GND
Canon S95 (taking)
Panasonic TS4
Gorillapod SLR-Zoom
Tamrac Zipshot

Everything above is insured. Would anyone take the 7D+Tamron instead for the weight+reach? I'm tempted to bring the Lee Filters and flash but I'm not sure how much I would really use them.

For those that have photographed the three countries above, are there any MUST SEE places? I've researched and looked at guidebooks but I'm looking for a photographer's perspective. Would you split your time equally between the three countries? Spend more time in one than the others? That kind of stuff.

Any tips and general recommendations would be really appreciated!