Am I correct in my research that neither Pocket Wizards or Radio Poppers currently work with the 1DX?

From what I can gather, it's currently only the Phottix Odin's that will work (in HSS and manual modes).

Cheers,

Nick

Hello guys,

Well the Subject kind of talk for itself but let me be clearer about it ;

I'm a french camera man/editor (so i already apologize for my poor english ) and i've been willing to get a video camera for a couple of years now. I'm also a passionate of photography so here is my dilemma :

I wanna do both (videos / pictures) which means i wanna include my work within my passion into the same device, so my first choice went for a DSLR (such as the 5D mk2).

But, for my job, i do a lot of interviews which can be very tricky for a DSLR; I'd rather have some XLR microphone(s) that i can plug than some jack ones; I know there are some adapters (such as dxa-5d) but that's pretty huge & heavy i think. Maybe there are some other choices to have proper audio during interviews, and i'd be thrilled to hear them, but is a 5d mk2 a good choice for certain purposes in videos?

I've rent and used the 7D and 5dmk2 for 2 years and i always used the sennheiser mke400 but i need some real mics for now on.

I don't know if i explained myself very clearly to you guys, but i'm around if you need more details.

Thanks!

With the arrivel of a confinding juvenile Bairds Sandpiper on the Dutch coast and the first serious photography with my 1Dx, I discovered a complete new phenomenon for myself. The 1Dx is my first fullframe camera. I took my pictures with a ( type 1) 500mm/F4 and with a 1.4x converter ( type2 ) attached. With an aperture set on 5.6 there is obvious vignetting noticable. It disappears pretty much when the aperture is set to 7.1. So far I only knew of vignetting with wide-angle lenses. Compared to my mark 4, I have to trust the much better image quality at iso's above 500.
Is that a phenomenon occuring only with the older 500 mm, or is it due to the use of the converter? Does it also appears with the new telelenses?

By the way, the bird was not getting an very nice welcome. It was sand-blasted a lot on our sandy beaches.

Thanks,
Jan van Holten

Two insect close-ups, both hand-held.

Taken with the 5Diii and the 100 L macro:


20120805-0098_Botanischer_Garten von stephan_n auf Flickr

Taken with the 5Diii and the 24-70, a little bit out of focus, but I just like the way it's hanging there


20120724-0184_Holland von stephan_n auf Flickr

Hello,

I am completely new to flash photography. I am a hobbyist and that being said one of the main purposes for the speedlite is that I hope to do portraits (single, group, etc), sometimes weddings (night events) and still life. I own a Canon 60D, but sometime down the road I have intentions to replace it with a 5D Mark III. I am contemplating buying the Canon 430 EX II soon. What I dont know is will I be able to wireless-ly trigger my flash and camera to take shots? If so, do I need additional hardware/device to be able to do that? If I later get myself the 5D, will I need a separate trigger again?

My second question is, as far as rechargeable batteries, and charger which brand would you fine folks recommend? Some suggest Eneloop, some Pearstone. I rather buy something that will last me longer than something that I have to replace often or will die out on me.

Third and last question, anything else I should be looking to add to the list over time? I will need a diffuser? Any particular type or brand I should be looking into?

Your advice is appreciated. Thanks

So I've skulked around the site for a long time and I own a 7d. My dream camera was the 1dx, but ain't gonna happen. So today, after going back and forth, I finally picked up the iii. I spent a couple hours calibrating my lenses and as soon as I got done I went out back with my 70-200 4.0 and attempted to get a hummingbird in flight.

Didn't really know what to expect since this isn't really an action camera but I think I did pretty well. I took about 20 shots as he (she?) surveyed the area to make sure it was safe. This one was the best. My 7d couldn't nail focus this well.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/fotofan63/7910386000/#in/photostream/

I cannot find the threads that discussed issues using an extender on a 5D III. It had something to do with aperture 8.0. Can someone refresh my memory on what that the issue was?

I've been shooting a lot of birds lately and one problem I've been having is keeping them in focus while flying. I have tried al servo, regular etc, and once in a while I'll hit in spot on, but usually in a burst out of 15 photos 3 will focus on the bird lol. Is there a technique or tip anyone might have for all those fast birds out there ?

using mono pod or ball head w/ 500mm sometimes with 1.4 or 2x extender

Here's a captive bred pet of mine. You can buy all sorts of stone decorations and plastic hides, but Dottie is more than happy with her empty paper towel roll. Can't you tell?



Canon T2i, Tamron 90 mm macro, tripod assisted, f/8, 1/13 sec, ISO 200

;D

Look through the viewfinder, I see 4 black specks. Had Canon store to clean the sensor but the specks still there. They said sensor is clean & nothing effect the images. Do I need to send it to Canon Service for cleaning? My camera still underwarranty. It is free for first cleaning. Any one have suggestion? thanks.

canon 5d mk3 + ef70-200 f2.8 L is usm mk2 natural light

joanna by Lseriesglass, on Flickr

The Town Hall of my City... Durham UK

The images show on LCD after capture some time it is under exposure but when play back it is normal & not under exposure. Any one know why, thanks

Not exactly Canon-related but certainly worth thinking about and applying to your own work:

http://www.digitalrev.com/article/25-photography-quotes-that-you/Mzg2MjA1NzQ_A

So how many of these quotes do you live by or apply only when you remember them?

If David Bailey says he's only taken two good pics in his life and I reckon I've taken three, how come he is so much richer than me?

There is a tiny bit of play when my 70-200 lens is attached to my 5DMKIII....and when I say a tiny bit of play, the lens hardly moves, but it is noticeable. This is my second 70-200 lens (I returned the first lens, because it had dust in it), and both lenses had the same amount of play when attached to the camera body. Is this play normal for the 70-200 lens? It doesn't effect the image quality (attached are a few photos I took with the lens).

By the way, my other lenses (24-105 & 50 f/1.4) attach securely to the camera body and do not move at all.

I saw this and thought of you all who like your Birds, how interesting!

http://www.bbc.co.uk/nature/19421217

I was shooting a wedding a couple of weeks ago and using my 5D Mark III for the first time (in a major shoot). I had also rented a 5D Mark III from LensRental. I was careful to label the photos so I am 99% sure that the photos came from my camera and not the rental. These photos represent only 10 frames out of about 1,200 I took with both cameras - my guess is I took about 800 with my camera and 400 with rental.

Has anyone seen this happen?

Configuration:
- Dual card recording - separately
- Slot 1 (CF); Lexar 8GB Platinum II (200x); Recording High RES JPEGS (Smooth profile)
- Slot 2 (SD); SanDisk 32 GB Extreme Pro SDHC; Recording CR2 RAW files

All 10 of the bad images have the same basic pattern (at least the landscape ones). Picture in upper left of frame is good and then it looks like someone melted the negative [UPDATE .. looks like only 1 photo was attached and it is the landscape - but they all sort of look like this]! The JPG images were perfect. Also, it looks like these were the last images I wrote to this card. It is also the first time both of these cards have been used. I did a fresh format (in the camera) before the shoot and the SD card had the low level format turned on. I purposely put the RAW format on the SD card as it had a larger capacity and I read that the camera sort of defaults to the speed of the SD card (which is slower than the ExtremePro can handle).

As an aside - after this shoot I had considered recording only RAW as the time to process, buffer fill, etc. takes so long - not to mention keepiing JPG and RAW files in sync between two cameras - is huge. But after seing these I will always record in both HiRes JPG and RAW!

Anyone seen this or reported it to Canon? Could it be a bad card? Sort of ruled this out as all bad RAW files had the same look and feel. If it was a bad card I would think the image would not be readable or the images would show random patterns. Although this was the first time I recorded a large amount of RAW I have been shooting RAW images since my 10D days and had a 5D Mark II for 2 years and never saw this.

Mike

Hi all,

Need some help choosing the right camera lenses for my 5D mark III.

I want to shoot stills and video. Stills: mainly portraits and street photography. Video: music videos.
I like to shoot with prime lenses: a 50mm and wide angle 35 or 28, preferably 1.2 / 1.4. Like the Canon 50mm L 1.2 or the Zeiss 50mm 1.4.

What would be the best choice for me? Canon or Zeiss lenses? Zeiss is only MF, good for video, but good for stills too?

Thank you for your time and reply.

Best, Dave

Anyone else using the 1DX has discovered that displaying of exposure metering is gone in the top display when camera in manual mode?

You still have exposure metering displayed in viewfinder and LCD screen, but it is obviously more difficult to use, and uses more power (LCD screen on). Come on Canon what is the reasoning behind this?

Really annoying when working with landscape photography for me!!!!

Has it always been like this on the 1D series?? (1DX is my first 1D series)

Hi,
Just picked up the 5D3 this week and got some time to fiddle with it last night.
Upgrading from a 30D I am overwhelmed by the results as I went for the high ISOs 6.4k-102.4k!

a) My first impression:
The 5d3 vs the 30D delievers about 4 stops better high ISOs in RAW, which to me is a huge step!
51.2k without NR still seems to look better than ISO 3200 on a 30D, both exposed to the right.
ISO 12800 is a no brainer now! Even without NR, if well exposed.
Even a 102.4k image is kind of "doable", although with some heavy NR, but I am geared toward Robert Capa and Robert Frank Style photography, so there is no problem with some noise for me. I do everything in DPP and convert b/ws using an old CS2.
The 5D3 is absolutely worth its money from my point of view and a tremendous camera!

Therefore:
b) What will be the standard high ISO level after the 2 next bodycycles of the 1 and 5 series?
Is it likely, that my extended ISO 102.4k will be the ISO 12.800 or 25600 6-8 years from now, then we would talk about extended ISOs on a 5Dwhatever up to H1 204.8 (like 1Dx now) and H2 409.6k
A 1Dwhatever would even break the million mark by then going up as high as ISO 1.638.400!
Whoever will benefit from such a high ISO...
Does all that seem likely according to porbable upcoming sensor tech improvements or is that too much of wishful thinking?

I am not too much into tech. So, what do you think? Any corrections and contrary/more realistic input is highly appreciated.

Anyway, the 5D3 rocks! 8)
Cheers, Pedro

Hey guys! First time posting! ive been looking at the forums for a little while now and finally decided to post some pictures. These are from a recent vacation.

Sunrise down in South Carolina.








these last two were at night. 30 second exposures. I was very surprised with both of these. The first one i was not expecting such a spectacular cloud and sky along with the beach and the lighthouse down in the distance. The second pic i got this weird line in the top left. I have no idea what it is. anyone got any idea? the only thing i could think of is a satelite or a plane...UFO anyone? haha




Hope you guys enjoy these.

Hi,

I'm a lighting newbie and have been searching around for some softboxes/diffusion for two flashpoint 1000 watt tungsten hot lights I have. The hot lights have worked well (for the price) for a product photography shoot I did with a custom light box I built.

I would like to be able to use these lights for some portrait shots of my fiance. Adorama has these softboxes listed as flashpoint accessories http://www.adorama.com/FPSBPZ2436.html but I'm wondering how well these would work since the lights get rather hot. I'd very much like to prevent the chance of a fire happening in my studio room

Is it possible to use softboxes with constant output lights like these? Any other good options for me? I'd really like to get into some Alien Bee lighting down the road when I have more $$ but right now the budget is very limited.

Thanks in advance for all the insight!

With our powers combined, "We" the loyal and (for the most part...satisfied) customers of Canon command you (with a pretty pretty please....and cherry on top) to release your secret weapon - The 14-24 2.8L upon us to smite thee Nikon.

Let it be known, this day of 31st (it just so happens to be my birthday - the "Big" 30) of Augusta, of 2012, that "We" ( I'm really just speaking for myself) will gather groupies to petition everyday, if we must, for you to release it ASAP.


Just trying to have a little fun here...

But seriously, why make us wait? Is it because you haven't quite released the 24-70 II and are afraid this will trump the profits of the 24-70? Some of you may think i'm crazy, but i've really considered purchasing the Nikon 14-24 2.8 (and all of the other verbage (SP) along with an Nikon mount to EF adapter just to use their lens MANUALLY....

From reading some of the other forums, it looks like Canon will be releasing a slew of other lenses before they even touch this one. And before the Die-Hard "Primers" respond, I have tons of primes that I love using, however, it would be nice not having to take a few of them...but rather having this bad girl.

So everyone, don't take this posting too serious, it was meant to lighten the mood.

I would appreciate any insightful commentary.

Have a GREAT Labor-day weekend. I'm photographing at a blues festival...a wedding...and a bunch of other stuff this weekend.

J

Earlier this evening I read the following article in a newspaper ... so I pulled out my 5D MK III with a Sigma 150-500 OS lens ran to the backyard, (mounted it on my Manfotto 468MGRC2 Ball Head on Manfrotto 055CXPRO4 Tripod legs) to take this photo ... nothing great about the image but I thought the article was interesting as I did not know anything about Blue Moon, other than hear the old saying "Once in a Blue Moon" used by people quite often. Except sharpening and resizing for emailing, no post processing is done to the image.

Friday will not be just another full moon night. On August 31 2012, it will literally be a once in a blue moon night, christened so because it will be the second full moon this month.

One gets an opportunity to see a 'blue moon' once in three years. The first full moon of the month was on August 2 and the second one is on August 31. The day holds a historical significance as the last blue moon shone on the earth in December 2009, while the next one is due in July 2015.

Experts believe that the term blue moon is likely to have originated from a rare historic event. The popular saying 'once in a blue moon' and its connection with two full moons in a month could have first happened in 1883 when Mount Krakatoa, a volcano in Indonesia erupted with a tremendous explosion and spewed out enormous amount of dust. This engulfed the earth's upper atmosphere and the moon appeared to acquire a bluish hue and remained so for nearly two years.

However, the earliest recorded English usage of the term 'blue moon' was in a 1524 pamphlet violently attacking the English clergy titled 'Rede Me and Be Not Wrothe' (Read me and be not angry; or possibly Counsel Me and Be Not Angry): "If they say the moon is belewe/We must believe that it is true" (If they say the moon is blue, we must believe that it is true).

There is another available interpretation that uses the Middle English meaning of belewe, which (besides 'blue' the colour) can mean 'betray'.

However, Mount Krakatoa isn't the only example. Other less potent volcanoes have also turned the moon blue. People saw blue moons in 1983 after the eruption of the El Chichon volcano in Mexico and there are also reports of blue moons caused by Mount St Helens in 1980 and Mount Pinatubo in 1991.

Forest fire in Sweden and Canada in 1950 and 1951 has also caused the moon to appear blue. In all these cases, it was refraction of light that had led to the blue tinge. Astronomy specialists pointed out there have been instances of two full moons in two calendar months every 19 years.

It is in 2018 next that one can witness two blue moons in a year.

There is nothing out of the ordinary on a blue moon night. It has no special metaphysical or any other significance apart from the fact that it probably explains the term of a rare phenomenon being called once in a blue moon' occurrence.