I recently stepped up to a fullframe kit, and have been trying out the 24-105 that came in the kit.

I didn't, however, have the extra cash to step up to a full-frame short 2.8 zoom ($2300!!). I previously used a 7D and 17-55 for this.

Question to the great pool of talent here... should I keep my 17-55 for a short 2.8 zoom, or take a hit on low light and use the 24-105?

Seems like the OOF area and IQ differences will sortof balance out (the FF can go a stop faster, same rough IQ, with the same light, but the lens is a stop slower)

However, I'm thinking about keeping the 7D and 17-55 so that I can get better hit on focus in low light (2.8 focus points versus f/4).

Thoughts?

I bought this lens a year ago and realized that I've been using it mostly at f/2.8 and it is because I started with f/1.4, but the sharpness wasn't as expected. I mean, when I put focus on some people who are in centre or next to it and everything else is behind it looks gorgeous, but if I'm to take a photo of a building or some big object than...

I guess I didn't get this tool well. What do you think this lens is most useful for and what styles should be avoided when using this lens?

Now I'm even considering selling it and getting 24-70 II, but I might miss the bokeh of 35L. :-\

...it'll end up with having both on my table, together with the filled divorce papers

It seems to me that people have strong preferences for the size of camera bodies when it comes to built-in grip (1D style) vs. no grip (5D style). I've read a few posts about people hoping the next big megapixel camera will come with a grip and I've read many posts about people hoping for no grip.

So I'm wondering...based on the following assumptions, whether more people desire a grip or more people desire no grip.

[list type=decimal]
[*]The next high MP body will be greater than $5,500 but no more than $7,500
[*]You can afford to spend $5,500 to $7,500 on a body.
[*]You are willing to spend $5,500 to $7,500 on a body (regardless of grip or no grip).
[*]The next high MP body will have greater than 40MP
[*]The next high MP body will be available for purchase by the end of CY2013
[*]There are no new high MP bodies announced from Nikon by the end of CY2013
[*]The next high MP body has similar or same specs as the 1Dx but is limited to 5 fps.
[/list]

Please only vote if you meet all the above criteria/assumptions.
i.e. If you cannot afford or are not willing to spend $5,500 to $7,500 on a camera body, then please do not vote.

5D II live view exposure "oddity". I'm going to assume something is broken to cause this, but hope it's some weird setting I'm just missing that is doing it. Seems like the results say something is broke.

http://www.extremeinstability.com/stormpics/2012/5d2liveview.jpg

That picture shows the issue. I'm in manual mode live view on. (So it's not some issue with that square part metering stuff) The scene on the lcd changes as I change the exposure. I take the shot and it's blown out too bright. I stop down more and take the shot again, same blow out. But if I turn the live view back off and take the shot, the shot appears like it did on live view and not blown out. Just look at the settings on the two examples of the resulting images. First one blown out with live view on at 1/6400 yet look at the 1/4000(slower) exposure when live view is turned off. It's like it should be. Something has to be screwed up and not just some odd setting that would do this? It's a used 5D II I just got. Images shot in raw and not touched during conversion. 100-400L was the lens. 24 seconds apart from one another.

Thanks
Mike

I was lucky enough to witness the historical event in Los Angeles. An image is posted here. A few more images can be found with this link:

http://www.lightcrafterphotography.com/blog/2012/9/witnessing-history---the-last-flight-of-space-shuttle-endeavour

Post your Endeavour or any space shuttle images.

Thinking of switching away from my two 580exII and Pocket Wizard System to the Speedlite Transmitter ST-E3-RT with two 600RTs using 5DIII. I am really hoping someone here can share positive or negative experiences with this setup.

I have the first version bought in 93 and love this lens with the integrated collar. It has seen 5 Olympics and just this weekend started having Error 01. The mount needs to be changed but Canon refuses to even look at it. I live in Montreal. Are there any third party service providers who can do this? I really dont like the design of the newer lens with the external collar. I have seen many a 300 hit the deck because the lens slips out of the collar.

This poll will run 180 days and intended for discussion on upgrading to the S110 from S100 (or S95). Is it worth the price to upgrade considering new specs. Votes can be changed as reviews come out on the camera.

http://www.ronmartblog.com/2012/09/comparison-canon-24-70-f28l-ii-vs-24.html

complete with comparisons to the 24-105. a lens i just bought, and now i'm wondering if that was such a great idea. well, i think i'm still good. with the money saved over the 24-70v2 i could still add the 35mm1.4 or 50mm1.2, or 24mm1.4, or... so yeah, still okay i think. It's just i like to keep my amount of gear to a minimum. so I'd rather have one super lens than two very good lenses, but they all have different strengths, so what's a guy to do?

anyway, another review.

I would like to get a setup of old, possibly all-metal, manual focus fast primes.

I am a child of the AF generation, so I'm very little experienced in this sense and I don't know which ones are worth having nowadays.

I'm interested in 20-28mm, 30-40mm, 50-60mm, 85-100mm and 135mm. A standard setup.

Please share your opinions with me. Doesn't matter about brands, as long as they can be adapted and that it makes sense to buy them price-wise.

Thank you!

As a 60d shooter was looking forward to the 6d entry level ff I was hugely disappointed by just the additional 2 af points and 1/180th fash sync. Came across this good comparison page regarding flash syncs

http://www.photographe-mariages.net/blog/20120404/vitesse-de-synchronisation-par-appareil-photo/

Why do the 60d, 50d, and 7d have a faster flash sync than the 5d mark ii and iii and the 6d?????

I'm holding off to see how the 7d mark ii shakes out now. the 6d doesn't impress me and the 5d mark iii is too much.

Hi all.

Got to try a 400 2.8 (mk 1) yesterday with a 7D. Can anyone think of a reason why EXIF information (in Aperture) reports it to be using a 2x when there was not one connected to the camera !

The 7D has the latest 2.0.3. firmware installed and if I put the 70-200 ii on to it it does not claim there is a 2 x present.

Obviously the camera thinks it, but why ?!

I am planning on going around Switzerland for a week to travel through the alps and photograph scenery and landscapes. I also want to rent a lens that would be best for landscape photography. I have a 60D with an 18-55mm, a 28mm 2.8, a 50mm 1.8 and a 70-200 f/4 L. Here are the lenses I am considering to rent:

Canon 10-22mm (I had a Tamron 10-24 when I used to shoot Nikon and absolutely loved the wide angle)

Canon 17-40mm L (I don't know if this is wide enough but I'm considering buying this lens in a few months to replace my 18-55)

Canon 16-35mm L (Not sure if its worth spending extra to get this one, especially if I'm shooting landscape where I'll be using narrow apertures)

Canon 24-105 L (Would this be a decent idea as a general purpose zoom or do you think I should just try to go for something more wide angle?)

Thanks for your help!

.. cuz the stabilized one's only just been announced.
Actually, having expected its announcement back in spring, I opted to purchase the original version in F-mount so I'd have that range covered on my FF Nikon bodies until I could afford/justify a new Nikon version. Since I mostly shoot all manual, AF speed and even accuracy is of little importance to me. Resolution tests looked pretty good for the price.

I was concerned about the MF precision with this lens since the end-to-end focus throw is not very long but it's very smooth and lightly damped and works well in the field. Better MF than Nikon's v2, IMO.

The other thing that worked well in the field is the lens' absolute sharpness performance. It's amazing, considering the price! Smooth bokeh, very close focus ability, and it's stupid-sharp! Enough that I was able to generate moire issues on distant brickwork using 135mm FL. Very low CA too.
I don't know if it's quite as sharp as Canon's v2 of the 70-200/2.8 but it's good enough for pixel-level detail on my D800e and that means I'll be keeping it and not buying the Nikon one.

end point...
If you're hankering for a good deal on a fast 70-200mm zoom, the Tamron is worth considering. If you don't need IS, it's comparable to the non-IS Canon lens at a lower price.

http://pelican.com/backpacks_detail.php?Backpack=U100

Well, Pelican has finally made a backpack, and it would fit my laptop in it perfectly...

Now the question is, could my camera fit in it, along with food and water for a few days. (The camera would only be in the backpack when the food and water weren't) for traveling in the national parks. Or clothes would be in the backpack if I were flying to someplace to vacation.

I might still need to use my nylon waterproof bag, but it does look like the bag would offer more protection thn any other bag I have seen.

She really is a sweetheart...if you don't make her angry.

Hi all,

http://www.lenstip.com/2008-news-Sony_Alpha_SLT-A99_-_sample_shots.html

Cheers!

Given the recent announcement and the affordable price of a 6D with a 24-105mm kit, I'm starting to seriously consider the full benefits of a move from using a 450D with a 15-85mm to a 6D with the 24-105, specifically in terms of shooting in low light, depth of field and so on... Whilst I'm sure some will shout, buy a 5D III, but seriously folks, I'm not happy to invest that level of my cash into a camera, so... Please, given my current lens line up, consideration of keeping the 450D with the 10-22, perhaps trading my 15-85 & 18-55, what can I expect and are there any pitfalls I need to think about ?

I am planning to buy an old manual focus (with aperture control ring on the lens) 50mm lens for basically reverse lens, and extension tube+manual lens based macro work. I am specifically not looking to buy any of the current auto focus macro lenses (or the non auto focus Zeiss glasses). The first reason is of course price (for the time being) and the second reason is I pretty much like the whole ritual of macro photography using the above two methods.

Those of you who have used the different manual focus 50mm lenses produced by different manufacturers (Canon FD, Nikon, Pentax, Minolta, and others) during the film era (or may be even today) could you please share your comments about the sharpness of the lenses that you have used. I am trying to figure out which one out there might be the sharpest (if there is any specifically).

If you think a different lens of a different focal length would be better for my intended purpose then also please share your thoughts.

Any help is most heartily welcome.

For anyone who might interested in this lens, I found this:

http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=ja&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&u=http%3A%2F%2Fdc.watch.impress.co.jp%2Fdocs%2Freview%2Flens_review%2F20120524_534810.html

Google translation is kinda weird, but the pictures speak by themselves. Looks like it fares very well on the hungry D800's sensor, and the bokeh is very smooth.

For those of you not familiar with the brand, as far as I know these lenses are now manufactured by Cosina in Japan, who also manufactures Zeiss lenses. The difference is that Voigtländer lenses are designed and manufactured in-house by Cosina, whereas the Zeiss are manufactured according to Zeiss design and QC specifications. In practical terms, you can expect the same level of build quality.

To my understanding, as a consequence of the very small size it lacks a floating element, so IQ in close focus tends to deteriorate.

For the price though - half the Zeiss 28/2 - I'm almost sold. It's available in Canon and Nikon mount, both of them chipped and with AV coupling.

Hi,
driving along early one morning and saw this shot, lots of low mist in the fields. I was hurried as where I parked was not ideal. Anyway I took some bracketed shots, from -2, -1.5, -1, -0.5 and +/-0. But, at F9.5, the sun is blown out in all five shots. I guess using F22 would have helped me.
The -2 shot has loads of noise due to most of it being very under exposed.
I thought about taking the darker parts from one of the better exposed versions to improve it. Anyone got any other ideas how to go about repairing this shot?

What about when shooting? I was using spot and trying to get the mist correct, which seems to have happened OK. I guess a grad ND would probably have helped too.

Cheers Brian

I just picked up the 1DX.

Maybe a simple question. I notice their are two "P modes". One is the regular "P" mode.
The other "P" mode has a "P1" C"???

Can anyone tell me the difference? I can't seem to find it in the manual??

Pags

Canon EOS 6D - Hands-on Praxis-Test | CHIP
Even the menus on the camera are in German.

Just noted a dead/hot pixel in my video, showing up as a white dot, on my 5D Mark II.

Tried the manual cleaning for 30 sec. a few times already, but it's not working. Anyone has any other suggestion on how to fix this. For some reason, the dead pixel only appears on my video footage and not my pictures.