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crutchfield

Wow.
Just got off the phone with crutchfield.
I ordered through them last night via phone with Dean. Dean pulled a 5dm3 body and put it in his system/cart while I was talking with him. I pulled the trigger on the item, paid for super fast shipping, and was told the 5dm3 body would arrive Thursday morning before 10:30. When I received email confirmation of my order, I cancelled at Amazon. I was a March 2nd 2:30am Central time Amazon orderer.
Today crutchfield tells me that there were actually no 5dm3s left when Dean placed my order.
"Sorry, I understand your frustration."
No, I don't think you do.

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Where can I download the 600EX-RT manual

I live in Japan and just picked up the new 600EX-RT (cause I had no previous flash) and of course the manual was in Japanese. I had planned to just download the manual from online, but canon doesn't have it listed for download at http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/speedlite_flash_lineup/speedlite_600ex_rt#ServiceAndSupport

anyone by chance have it or know where I can download it?

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18-200 and vignetting with Cokin P holder

I'm using a Cokin P Holder on top of a Canon UV filter on my 18-200 zoom lens.
I'm puzzled why I'm getting vignetting at 18mm when using a Cokin polariser.
I've used the Cokin setup and the same Canon UV filter on my old FD 20-35 zoom in the past and was able to use it down to 24mm before vignetting started. 18mm on the crop format is equivalent to 29mm. It doesn't make sense!
Is it somethng to do with the design of the 18-200?
Of course I could remove the UV filter as it doesn't vignette then, but I'm always concerned about not having some protection on the front of the lens. I sometimes bang the UV filter glass when taking the Cokin adapter on and off if I am rushing to get a shot in changing light. I don't want to be doing that to the front of the lens!
Has anyone tried the slim UV filters like the Hoya Digital Pro 1 on this lens with the same Cokin setup? Does it vignette at 18mm?
What's even more confusing is that I can use a Hoya Circular Polariser on the front of my Sigma 10-20 (with no UV filter on) and then put the Cokin holder on the front of that and not get vignetting until 14mm! The Hoya is the same thickness as the Canon UV.
Do others encounter these problems with the 18-200, or is mine atypical in some way?

With the filter thread on this lens being plastic I wonder how robust it is over time?
I've only just got mine and I put my Cokin filter holder on and off constantly.
Has anyone who has had an 18-200 for a few years found problems with the filter thread e.g. getting worn?
I'm toying with the idea of leaving the Cokin adapter in place all the time and using a Cokin ring cap in lieu of the Canon lens cap.
But then I wonder whether the pressure of putting the filter holder constantly on and off the adapter ring, when its attached to the lens, will cause problems on the lens filter thread.
Any experience or thoughts about this?
Thanks

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Skewed diagonal lines, dpr studio shots with D4, 5D2, 1D4... not on 7D, D800

Odd image skewing in dpr's studio scene comparison. If you move the image view portion to the black and white pinwheel located directly below the images center cross point you will notice that on most sensors, including the D4 and the Canon 5DMk2 that some of the spines of the wheel are skewed, in both raw and jpeg images.

In the Nikon D4 I see a skewed line run horizontally across the diameter, just above the center point, and a vertically skewed line at the far left of the pinwheel. The Canon 1DMk4 has the same problem, in almost the exact same positions as the D4, only more pronounced.

For the Canon 5DMk2 I see a horizontal skewing about a 1/4 way from the top of the wheel, no vertical skewing though.

The Nikon D800, Canon 7D, and the Leica M9 don't exhibit the same behavior though.

Any ideas on whether this is indeed flaws with the sensors, or with the imaging software?

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Which lens is better suited for street photography, prime or wide angle zoom?

I can't decide which lens to purchase

The Rokinon 35mm f/1.4 or Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8

- I like the Rokinon 35mm because it's a manual lens, and my dad had an old rangefinder that had a full manual lens. I've grown attached to it manual focusing on my T1i because 1). I do a lot of videos 2). In low light, i trust my eyes better than the camera. I've played with the Sigma 30mm f/1.4 but I found a lot of CA and CF when shot wide open. I have heard that the IQ this lens gives matches a really high quality lens.

- The Tamron interested me because of it's similarities to the Canon 17-55 f/2.8, but it's price range is well in my range. (BTW I'm talking about the non-VC version of the lens). A lot of people say that it's the better lens due to it's high image quality against the Sigma 17-50 f/2.8.

I'm in a film group and currently we are scouting locations for upcoming shorts. I find that we often find ourselves on the street more than indoors.

I'm looking for a lens that will get me good IQ, wide aperture, and something that won't make me have to sell my kidney


Now my question is, which lens do you guys use for street photography? and what do you recommend for someone on a low budget?

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EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS II VS Canon EF-S 55-250mm f/4.0-5.6 IS ?

Hi,

I purchased Canon EF-S 55-250mm f/4.0-5.6 IS II, the newer version (MKII) online, the retailer has sent me the older version of the canon lens (EF-S 55-250mm f/4.0-5.6 IS). I would like to know is there any difference in these lenses. Is it worth keeping or do I need to contact my online retailer?

The reason I am asking this question is it’s saves my time as they need to arrange for collection and then process for another delivery and I work full-time, where I need to arrange some for collection and delivery, it’s a big headache. Please some answer my question I really appreciate your advice.

Many Thanks.
Leo

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fuji x-pro1 .. a winner.

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/cameras/.shtm


A great camera is an amalgam of great handling and great image quality. Fuji has really nailed it on the latter of these. Image quality is superb. A number of working pros have observed that the X-Pro1 is seriously competing with their full-frame DSLRs in image quality and hence for space in their camera bags. I have to agree. In fact, let me stick my neck out and say that Fuji's X-trans is probably the best APS-C sensor yet. I have certainly not seen better.
........

This camera can see in the dark. Its performance up to ISO 6400 is nothing short of remarkable, in particular for an APS-C sensor. This is the first camera I have used where ISO is just not an issue. When I sent Michael a file shot at ISO 6400, he had the same reaction I did: this looks like a good ISO 1600 file. Even more impressively, the bulk of my evaluation has taken place using in-camera jpegs, given the current agony of RAW conversion. Relying on the in-camera jpeg engine appeared to impair performance very little. If more can be wrung out of a proper RAW file, as doubtless it can, a good thing will have been made even better.

Significantly, the high-ISO performance does not appear to be the product of mindless shmeering of images with indiscriminate application of suffocating noise reduction, as was the want of certain makers not that long ago. Rather, the Fuji seems to strike a nice balance between saving data and suppressing chroma noise. I have no hesitation in saying that this camera is fully usable for street photography up to ISO 6400. For landscape work one will generally stick to the base ISO of 200. Nevertheless, I would feel comfortable making a significant enlargement from an ISO 800 shot, and even beyond, depending on the subject matter. By any measure, this is superb performance.
......


The short take-away is that the X-Pro1's sensor leaves nothing on the table and can take anything the finest glass sends its way. The images coming off this sensor are superbly detailed.

I am particularly excited about testing this camera with my "M" glass once the appropriate adaptor arrives. Unfortunately, it didn't get here in time for this segment of the review, but I will update as soon as I've had a chance to put the camera through its paces with the ne-plus-ultra of lenses.This combination could make for a potent landscape solution.

I will say this, however: in a carefully shot side-by-side test, I could see little difference in resolution at 100% between the M9 with a 50mm late-model Summicron and the X-Pro1 with the 35mm f1.4, both at optimum apertures. The Leica had a barely perceptible edge in micro-contrast and, curiously, a clearly noticeable edge in colour gammut and sensitivity. The former of these is attributable to the lens. The latter seems more likely to be a function of the sensor. Whether this is intrinsic to the sensor, something about the X-Trans configuration (unlikely) or bad de-bayering, I don't know.

To be clear, there was nothing wrong or deficient about the X-Pro1s colour reproduction. In fact, I find it to be pleasing and accurate, and pretty on-the-mark in auto white balance. If I hadn't been looking at side-by-side files, I would never have noticed the Leica's advantage. (And no, it's not a function of the jpeg conversion. The colour issue caused me to crack-out the Fuji RAW conversion software and I could not do much better with it than with in-camera jpegs at a fairly highly saturated setting).

All in all, however, the sensor is excellent. If scaled to full-frame, it would have cleaned the Leica's clock (being 30-40MPs!). As it is, this APS-C sensor is highly competitive with the best-of-the-best, when equipped with the right lens, and when things are in focus....


i would hope that canon has the balls to put such inventions (like the x-trans sensor) in their DSLR cameras.
but canon is too conservative. once the leader... now the follower. :(

the 5D MK3 and 1D X are great cameras.. don´t get me wrong.

but they are just small updates when it comes to sensor technology.

i don´t want 30+ MP.. but more DR and no need of an AA filter would be very welcome.
i had great hope for more DR (not so much that canon get rid of the AA filter yet) but DR seems not be improved that much (if at all).

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DPreview - problems?

Many people including me value the in depth reviews of cameras, and following the release of so many new & exciting new DSLRs there's an expectation that one of the premier review sites will post it's findings soon. But DPreview has not posted a DSLR review since the Sony SLT-A65 way back in mid November last year. Since the turn of the year they have only posted four reviews, and all of those have been compacts.

The Nikon D4 was previewed 6th January, surely there has been enough time to review one by now? Prior to DPreview, Steves digicams was perhaps the best review site, it looks like DPreview is taking far too long, and that means it's going to lose relevance quite quickly. A shame as it's reviews were excellent.

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5DMIII vs 7D for birding

Hi...

I'm currently using a 70-200MII + 2xIII for birding and I'm wondering how bad will I miss my 7D by upgrading to 5DMIII? :-\
A super-tele is definitely a big NO for me.

I know that by going from crop to FF, I'll lose the extra reach. The subject will be smaller in the viewfinder and the extra 4mp of the 5DMIII will not be much of a help.

However, I've seen in another thread here in CR discussing the comparison in DPReview between 5DMIII and D800 by enlarging the 5DMIII image with a slight quality loss on the Canon side.

So, back to my question, how much can we enlarge 5DMIII images until the quality degrades to a level comparable to a 7D image?

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Best music/concert photography lenses?

The can be canon or 3rd party (although I'd like to stick to canon just for the peace of mind that there's zero chance it will stuff up my camera). I want a light, fast (max of 2.8) lens to shoot live concerts with (right up at the stage where security are). My really stretched budget is $1500, give or take a bit ($100).

Considering these lens;
* 50mm (canon 1.4 or sigma 1.4, although I've heard good/bad with both but heard sigma is worse..?)
* 24mm (either L or non-L)
* 35mm (either L or non-L, considering this as its like 56mm on a crop which is what i have)
* 17-55 2.8 IS (trying to stay away from this since its EF-S and will be moving to FF in <5yrs)
* sigma 17-50mm 2.8 (I think it has IS, i like the focal length. but it's 3rd party and i heard 3rd party have a decent chance of screwing up electronics in your camera)

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Lens micro-adjust for 5D3

I've downloaded and am reading the user manual while waiting for my 5D3 to arrive. The AF microadjustment described on p. 104-109 has new capability (to me) that allows for separate calibration at each focal length extreme of a zoom lens. The manual calls these settings W (wide) and T (telephoto). Once these settings are stored in the camera for a specific lens the adjustments for other focal lengths are automatically scaled by the camera based on the W and T settings.

I previously have attempted calibrating my EF-S 17-85 zoom with my 7D using the LensAlign MkII tool. The 7D allows for a single microadjustment - obviously a limiting choice for zoom lens. Seemed like a capability only for prime lenses.

The W and T settings may have been in 1D models for quite some time, or it could be new to the 5D3, and likely the 1D X too.

Does anyone have any experience with the W and T capability and can comment on its effectiveness? :)

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Any news on the 1D X?!

It's almost a month from the supposed release, and Canon's been dead silent.

No rumors about what's been delaying it. There are no RAW samples yet, and the most I've heard about the release is one person mentioning on dpreview that B&H will get shipment on the 20th of April. When I asked B&H, the customer service rep said there's no such info...

Anyone hear anything about this camera?

The wait has been so long and is getting painful...

Kaz

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Weird Banding on shots....

Whats happening to my shiny new 5d3?

Burst shot at 1/1000th sec, F/2.8 @ 70mm 12,800 ISO (was set to Auto)

I was at a local Church shooting some guys playing badminton at high ISO (12,800) and I saw some yellow banding across the shots. First I was not sure if it was random lighting issues or what, then I started to take burst shots, and the banding appeared moving across each frame... What the heck is it?

EDIT: Issue exists behind the Camera it seems. :-[

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Sigma new 105mm macro better than canon 100L macro ?

According to the test on; the digital picture, results of the ISO 12233 Chart 100% Crops are better with the sigma new macro lens. http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=790&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=0&API=0&LensComp=674&CameraComp=0&FLIComp=0&APIComp=0 And with the other results on flare distortion and vigneting it's pretty impressive . What do You think about it?

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