Hello all, long time reader and first time poster.

I've recently jumped from crop to FF with the new 5D after piling up a few lenses with with crop cameras. Please file me under 'poorly self-taught enthusiast' -- no teaching, perhaps 30k exposures of flight time logged.

Though I have the standard 24-70 F/2.8L zoom (Mk I) and 50 F/1.4, I feel these lenses don't fully serve me in my walkaround needs. I've recently moved from a very small town to a major city, and I'd like to bring the camera along as I discover my new home. Weight and size precludes bringing the 24-70 around everywhere. Though the 50 prime is often my walkaround, my most troublesome environment is wide, indoors, low light. This comes up a lot, as I'm often out with friends at a cramped bar / restaurant and have to sandwich all their faces together. I'm not just shooting candids -- everywhere in this city is compacted into small spaces where width gives me more elbow room for composition. I also don't carry a flash with me in my travels, so even with the 5D3's great low light performance, I need something very quick.

So I have rented the 35 F/1.4L and the new 28 F/2.8 IS to test them out head to head, with the intention of buying one of the two. I've opted out of the 24 F/1.4L II as I feel that the 24mm FOV on FF is great for landscapes, but clearly shows distorted view of closer objects. I also love circular polarizers for outdoor shooting, but 24mm on FF shows that FOV quasi-vignetting thing that I'd like to avoid.

I know many pros on this forum have thrown their hands up at the new 24mm and 28mm primes for still shooters -- why give IS to a wide lens, these are meant for video, I'll take the F/1.4 over the F/2.8 with IS, etc. But I'd like to understand that better in the context of my shooting style/need.

I ask because from everything I've seen, the 28 is just as good if not better than the 35L in my hands from a few days of shooting. Keep in mind, I'm not a super pixel peeper guy. I leave that for the testing guys, and if you spotted the LensRentals.com posting, the 28 @ 2.8 is within a hair of the resolution performance of the 24 F/1.4L II stopped down to 2.8. As you'd expect, the 24 F/1.4L II was considerably softer fully open. Unfortunately, I don't have the same data in the same test for the 35L, but it's (from other sites) in the same ballpark as the 24 F/1.4L II.

So, after all that, my question is this. As I'm not shooting moving targets where the 1.4 will buy me a usefully faster shutter speed, wouldn't I rather use the new 28 @ 2.8 with its four stops of IS at a higher overall IQ than the 35L wide open? In my unique need, isn't the new 28 a better choice?

I ask because though I am not shy about buying L glass (I own quite a few), the 28 is small, light, sharp, and surprisingly well built -- as good as any non-L I've seen. Further, the 35L looks and feels far *less* solid than my other L glass, and the design is certainly dated. I know people have raved about the 35L, but is this non-L perhaps the better lens for me?

As an engineer and legendary overthinker in RL, I've spreadsheeted it up like I do for most tough calls. See attached with the grain of salt that I am a non-pro and non-pixel peeper. See link: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0Bw1Ov5b4ZHg1ZGRCamEtd2ZITjg

I welcome all commentary on this lens decision. Thanks in advance for your help!

- A

While I do not own a EOS-1D X, I would like to start two threads for the new EOS cameras. This thread is here for you to offer shooting tips be it lighting and exposures with the 1dx, focus points, Autofocus Case settings, Iso's, anything that you select in camera to get your best image captures for what you do. Please be generous with your tips, this will be a big help for all who own the camera!

I personally own the EOS 5D Mark III, I would like to start two threads for the new EOS cameras. This thread is here for you to offer shooting tips be it lighting and exposures with the 5D Mark III, focus points, Autofocus Case settings, Iso's, anything that you select in camera to get your best image captures for what you do. Please be generous with your tips, this will be a big help for all who own the camera!

Should be going to the Leuchars airshow on Sept 15th here in Scotland and, since it's the first airshow I'll have been to in over 20yrs, wondered about the best choice of lenses.

Main gear will be 5D3 plus 300mm 2.8 IS (and Kenko 1.4x TC) (without monopod as I think it would be too restrictive).

However now the problem starts - do I also take:

24-105mm for static stuff (B-52!!) and wider field of view flying shots (Red Arrows/Patrouille de France)

or

17-40mm for static aircraft and 70-200mm f4 IS for Red Arrows/Patrouille de France?

No doubt some will say take it all but I want to travel as light as possible but not miss shots by leaving stuff at home. Bearing in mind I'll also be carrying food and water for a long day.

Next part of the question is: to ensure razor sharp shots of the flying displays am I better shooting at, say, f8 and let the 5d3 take care of the rest or shoot close to wide open to maintain high shutter speed and rely on the focus tracking of the 5D3 to keep up with fast jets?

Any opinions and airshow example shots would be appreciated.

Guy.

I would like to use one of these 2 lenses for wedding photography mainly. After reading ton of reviews it looks like both options are excellent and give good results, however I don't have time to set up tripod just to shoot the rings for example. I never used micro lens so I'm hoping to get some advice. Basically it comes down to the price. Do you think IS worth double the price, also if you think I should be looking in to some other lenses please let me know.
Thanks in advance.

I'm trying to improve my PP skills, so, advise is welcome!


25-105mm@24 | ISO 100 | 1/1000 | F/4

Large version: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/74314625/IMG_1634.jpg

Hi, I'm finally ready to add a wide angle lens to my collection. I mainly want it for landscapes, inside historic houses, and some closeup work (flowers and things). I was thinking the canon 10-22 but I would love to hear opinions on this or other lenses.

Thank you

Hi!

I've been trying to figure this out, but how can I shoot like 5-7 bracketed shots with my 5D markIII ? To make HDR on my own, not using the cameras HDR. I would like to have my own 5-7 RAW-files to play with

I would like to shoot them easy with a remote (Canon TC-80 N3). I've tried to set this up but it don't seem to work?

The ideal thing would be to have a quickmeny to "enable" this, then set the "middle"-point and just "fire away" and the camera takes the 5-7 shots just by holding down the remote trigger-button or something.

Any tips/ideas how to do this? Any guide? Have tried to google it aswell as playing with the manual but didn't find any good pages for it.

Best regards
Fredrik

So, I think I'll start a 5d3 in-camera HDR shots. Here are a few from today testing out the TS-E 24mm I'm borrowing through Canon CPS. Really cool lens, very interesting using it. Mostly was using Art Vivid, but I think the first one there is Natural.

Hi, I am just wondering if you switch off image stabilization on your lens in sunny (bright) days - for example with 70-200/ IS lenses? Or do you have it still ON?

I know, that I should switch it off when using a tripod. But what about sunny days with shutter speeds about 1/1000 and faster? Should I switch it off? I do not care about battery life, but I am wondering about life time of IS at all.

Thanks.

Ok, so I have someone asking me how much I charge to take photos at a party(not a wedding, just a get together, like at a bar) but as the official photographer and I don't want to overcharge and scare them away from using me. How much would y'all charge based on the work....can see more at my website: claycorbin.com

I'm in the market for a landscape lens. The widest lens I have now is the short end of my 24-105. I'm shooting with a 5d Mk III. What lens would you buy and why? Cost is not an issue. Thanks in advance for your input.

Did anyone try it using AI-Servo and perhaps burst mode? Is it even possible to do with relative success?
Becuase we've been hearing a lot how 1DX is good in this regard, but for a variety of reasons 5d3 is a much more used camera, that's why I'm asking.
I currently have 70-300L so I'm planning to shoot with this, just want to hear your opinion on the subject matter.

Hi All

I am brand spanking new to this forum and about 6 months into photography. I got a T3i as a gift and started shooting random stuff with the kit lens and wasn't sure why my pictures are not coming out quite as sharp. 6 Months later and thousands of dollars in lenses, i find myself shooting a few events as an amateur photographer for my friends weddings, bridal parties, and birthdays.

The Million dollar question, what are my pictures missing? or is I that is missing the artistic eye? ???

I know that my camera isn't the greatest in high ISO, I shoot RAW and do my best to reduce the noise in post processing, but sometimes I fail :-\

Thanks for your feedback.

ps. All criticism is welcomed and taken positively, so please don't hold back

My experience has been horrible more than once. Think I'd learn.

Anyone else?

Hi all,

Lurker first time poster. Figure this is the best place to ask this.

To make a long story short: I dropped my camera in the fountain at the Louvre. While it makes for an interesting story it also makes for a damaged camera. The good news is after a week the camera seems to have dried out and is working. The lens, on the other hand, is having issues.

It's a 24-105 L Canon and you can still see moisture spots on the inside glass. Also, the focus doesn't kick in and you can hear it grinding to try to start up.

I took it to a repair shop here in town and the guy there said "It's not worth it" at first. Then said he would look at it for $48 and, if repairable, would charge me $400 but no guarantee. He said the sound I am hearing is the IS trying to kick in.

What do you think? Is it salvagable? Suggestions outside of "Don't drop your camera into a fountain at the Louvre"?

Has canon 5D for 1,150 and 70-200 USM lens for 1759. Sounds like good prices but don't know if they're reputable.

Hello everyone I am in talks with a guy to buy a 500 f4 I would trade it for my 400 5.6 + cash for $3900 he says its in perfect condition and comes with everything. Is this a good deal?

What should I look for when checking the lens?

thanks

New review of this lens together with the the 1.4x and 2x TC IIIs has just been uploaded on juzaphoto - if any one is interested.

Not quite the 300 - 600 universal lens I thought it was!!

Hi All

Camera 5D Mk3
Lens 24-105 L F4

whilst shooting the ISS I managed to knock into my tripod which sent it tumbling to the floor and did a fair amount of front lens damage, although I was still able to take pictures and both lens and camera worked ok,
so I have a few questions

1) whilst no obvious damage to the body (the lens took the fall) do I need to get the camera body checked out?
2) is there a option to repair the lens (all the damage was the front element glass

thanks
Scott

I shoot mostly sports but I'm travelling more and want to shoot landscapes, cityscapes, and seascapes on my travels. I think a FF body will enhance that. I have enough $ to do the following after I sell my 50D which is now being serviced by CPS:

1. Buy a 5D3 now and an SX40 as my backup travel camera.
2. Buy a 5D2 and an EOS-M later
3. Buy a 1Ds3 and an SX40
4. Buy a 1Dx in 2 years when I can afford it
5. Wait to see if Canon releases a new FF body and see what happens to the prices.
6. Don't bother with new and get a decent used 1Ds or 5D1 and use the rest of the money to go somewhere else.

I am looking for opinions on the options based on what you think of the gear combination. I chose the APS-C bodies for sports. I shoot 200/f2, 300/f2.8, 400f/4, and 70-200/f2.8IS for sports and for scapes I plan to use 24-70/f2.8, 70-200/f2.8, 100/f2.8IS macro, 50/f1.4. and 8-15/f4 fisheye

The title says it all - I'm still waiting for the GPS unit specifically designed for the 1D X. Heading into the wilderness of the Yukon in less than a month, and I have no idea if it will arrive on time (September 10th).

I know the GP-E2 is available to some degree, but that's not the unit I plunked down money to pre-order.

Thanks for any insight!

Pretty much everything except what I really want which is "RATING"

Rating and voice annotation (along with AF/Drive speed) were the reasons behind this purchase. Just seems like you can customize this camera any which way you want, except be able to assign RATING to any button.

Guess I'll call canon just to make sure i'm not missing anything. Maybe (haha) they'll add it in a future firmware release.