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Canon's list of authorized dealers - how accurate?

I've noticed that some online sellers are calling themselves Canon dealers (or implying that they are) but they aren't on the list that Canon has published here:

http://www.usa.canon.com/CUSA/assets/app/pdf/dealer/CanonAuthorizedDealers.pdf

It makes me wonder if the list is up to date. Just for fun, I have started to look up some of the dealers who are on the list to see if they really exist. I've only done two so far.

I looked up Ruthie's Jewelry and Photography in Oregon. Google shows a business by that name in the high desert town of Burns. No mention of camera sales on their website. Anyone who has been to Burns knows that there isn't a real Canon dealer there, unless they are selling cameras to the cows and antelope.

I also looked up "The Camera Center" in Oregon. There was a business by that name in Roseburg, but their website appears dead.

Let's have some fun and look for more non-dealers on the list. I have a hunch that it hasn't been updated in a while.

Mike

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On a hot day I left my 5d3 and lens in my car's trunk...any damage?

I forgot that I had left my 5d3 and L lens in my car's trunk for a couple days while the sun was out and the temps were in the 90's. When I opened the trunk, it felt like hot, but not like "inside the car" hot because obviously the trunk is dark.

I tried to simulate the scenario with a thermometer and it said 110. I know that one of the days was close to 100 degrees and sunny, so I'm thinking it might have been 120 or 130 at some point.

I've used the camera since, and the images and performance appear normal. The manual just says avoid high heat....I'm not sure if 125 qualifies as high heat. I know when I lived in the desert for a few years that it's sometime 115 degrees and sunny, which might subject your camera/lens to 130 degrees or more.

Has anybody ever done this? Do I have anything to worry about?

What about the lens, can a lens handle this type of heat?

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Pull the trigger on a 60D? Pricing...

Hi everyone,

I just recently sold my T2i and after much thought and reserach have decided the 60D is the right camera for me. I'm a Realtor, and will be using it for home photos, and videos of my clients homes during a listing.

Here's my dilemma. How low will the 60D body only prices get? They're as low as $739.99 body only (from Canon dealers, with warranty, non refurbished). I have been watching them for about a month now, and the price has continued to slowly drop. I'm anticipating a release of a 70D (or whatever they call it) in the near future... I guess my question is this; "how low do you think the pricing will get? What has history dictated, as compared to examples... how much lower will pricing get on old models before and after a new model comes out?"

I realize it's impossible to come up with an exact answer - but does anyone have any input they can share? $739.99 for the body brand new is pretty good... but will it get better???

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5DM3 is not doing all I hoped...wanting to upgrade to 1DX

Hey guys, maybe some insight here, maybe a good deal for someone, not sure. I purchased a 5DM3 kit at B&H on March 30, in that time I have been waiting for the mixed accessories to become available, as I typically shoot off a tripod (Using RRS brackets...Not yet available) and use a remote flash (New ST-E3-RT + 600EX's) and have just got to the season where we can do the photography that I purchased the camera for, night time tarpon fishing. We have tested the 5DM3, as it is a marvelous camera for daytime shooting, it is not delivering the results we hoped for, especially in the area of AF and IQ. When shooting at night, ISO is a big factor, and both cameras (based on results I have seen) appear to be the same, but the actual ability for the camera to focus and do it quickly, for what we are shooting, which you have a split second reaction time to capture the moment, is failing. I contacted B&H today, and they were not able to help me, in either a return or exchange, so I am asking here, if anyone has any insight on how I can deal with this (Minus just buying a 1DX on top of what I have already spent). I asked them if they could work with me, as since 3/30 i had spent $23,000 in their shop. They said it had been too long, nothing they could do. I would be more than willing to part with my equipment for a discounted price, so that I can efficiently make the needed upgrade. I am really up against a wall here as I desperately need the right tool for the job. Can anyone shed some light on this doom situation I have? Thanks in advance!

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What lens(es) should I consider for next purchase?

I know it depends on what kind of photography I do... but I am open to and like to explore new areas. I just sold my 100-400L since it did not give me a whole lot more reach/ sharp images as can my 70-200mk.ii with a 2x mk.iii, I would like some reach but the good lenses are very pricey. I like Macro/General people pics/citi scapes/landscapes etc.

I already have the 17-40, 70-200, 50 1.8 mk.ii, 180L. I got the 17-40 after selling a good copy 24-105L, while I like the extra width, I feel the corners are so mushy and distortion very noticable at the corners that I do not use that extra width... should I wait for the 24-70mk.ii or get the 16-35mk.ii ? I love the 70-200. I use it the most.

My budget is about $3500. I am a hobbyist, and would probably re-sell the lenses after I get bored with them since I do not make money off the hobby...

Are there new avenues / lenses I should explore? What would you guys do?

Depth of Field, composition and thinking it through...

We all love it. For the most part, big blurred background, we're all "guilty" of doing it. And we always will be.


But find yourself flipping through the countless greatest image makers of all time, portraits, street, sport, fine art, and more, and the vast majority of it is with lots of depth of field (like f/5.6, f/8, f/11 and smaller like f/22).

Now, simply because one did things one way, doesn't mean we have to as well. BUT, I'm finding that it's a far greater challenge, and a far greater pay off, to KNOW WHEN to use small apertures and know when to use big ones.

Composition is far more difficult when you need to think about what is in the background and the foreground. If you can simply blur the background out completely then it hardly matters in most cases. And that's fine. As I said, I do this too. And in many cases it's very cool, and is pleasing for subject separation.


However, having said this, some of the greatest photographers of the past, AND of our present time, often use lots of depth of field. We NEED context in many photos.


This year, I have started to stop down far more often in many situations, to show more context. To gain more depth. To show MORE. It has made composition harder in many cases, but has also paid off.




Let's see your deeper depth of field portraits, group shots, candid moments, whatever. I'll dig out a few. Let's say.... f/5.6 or beyond. :)


This one was from last year, it's on medium format film, a photo of my girlfriend as we walked around, I was testing a new (at that time anyway) camera for me, the Mamiya 645.


This is f/16




kirsten at sunny f/16 by Sandy Phimester, on Flickr

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Canon PowerShot G12 Digital Camera

I have got discount "Free Extra Battery with Canon PowerShot G12 Digital Camera Plus Free Shipping"
Don't know if it's a good deal or not.

Don't know if it will work for anyone else.

Here is the links of website if someone wants to visit:

http://www.ezcouponsearch.com/Best-Buy-Coupons_cm_3065.aspx

Help me in finding the best deal for Canon Camera. Thanks in advance for helping.

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5d III - Number of Shutter Actuations?

On the previous 5D bodies there was not a reliable way to get the count for the number of shutter actuations over the life of the camera. Well, there is an app that I believe works for the Mark II but it's accuracy has been questioned by some.

Anyway, is there a new way with the 5D III to get the number of clicks? Ideally something within the camera itself or maybe with an app like EOS Utility?

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Other Quick 1DX vs.s 5D Mark III comparisons

The auto focus in the 1DX is much faster. The shutter is super fast. I actually like it more than the 1D Mark IV. The 5D Mark III seems to struggle a bit in lower light or objects with little contrast, but the 1D X has been hitting those.

The downside is that the two do not expose and meter the same. The 1D X looks wrong. It isn't metering the same as the 5D Mark III and I actually think, compared to the 1D4 and 5D3, it is slightly underexposing. Auto ISO in manual mode gives different ISO values on the two cameras, the lower being on the 1D X and thus it does look a tad underexposed. More into that later.

I will next compare outdoor shots again with plenty of light of a church.

So far other than the 1D body and the faster shutter and burst rate, I really don't see much advantage over the 5D3. The ISO performance by my indoor examples are not significant enough. They are super close up through 10,000 or 12,800. The landscape shots really weren't different enough among the 1DX, 5D3, and 1D4 to really say any difference there, other than the pleasing extra detail present in the 1D X images.

I'll do two more tests. The normal shooting situation of a church, and then some action/sports. Those will really be the true tests, so stay tuned.

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1D X ISO Shots

I took several ISO shots with the 1D X indoors, in fluorescent light. I did 6400, 10000, 12800, 25600, and 51200. I then cropped the mug I was shooting at ISO 51200 and did no NR, and then 80% NR in Camera RAW. I then show the whole scene at 80% NR in Camera RAW.

I will post the 5D3 and 1D4 images next.

Attachments

  • 1dx ISO 6400.JPG
    1dx ISO 6400.JPG
    1 MB · Views: 1,492
  • 1dx ISO 10000.JPG
    1dx ISO 10000.JPG
    1.1 MB · Views: 1,460
  • 1dx ISO 12800.JPG
    1dx ISO 12800.JPG
    1.5 MB · Views: 1,455

Niece and grandniece (candid)

You're welcome to comment/critique anything you feel helpful, but this candid upload is mostly for fun. It's official: I've got the cutest grandniece in CR Forums. ;D


Niece and grandniece by Rick.Scheibner, on Flickr

EXIF:
Camera Canon EOS 5D Mark II
Lens: Canon EF 50mm f/1.4
Exposure 0.001 sec (1/2000)
Aperture f/2.0
Focal Length 50 mm
ISO Speed 250
Exposure Bias 0 EV

Light source: Eastern Oregon evening sun camera right, subjects in shade.

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Canon 55-250mm IS -- problem accepting 58mm filters/hood...

Hey all -- first post. Thanks for the forum...

I recently purchased a Canon T3i (I've had an EOS XS and an SX30is in the past). It came with the 18-55mm IS lens. I purchased a lightly used 55-250mm IS from a reputable reseller. I also got a small assortment of filters, a wide angle, and a 2x tele. My problem is, the 55-250mm will not accept these filters. It seems the threads in the lens are too big (as in, bigger than 58mm -- the filters fit LOOSELY and likely to just fall out). All these filters fit with ZERO problem in my 18-55mm. The threads in the 55-250mm look fine, not ruined/cross threaded. I've found one other thread online where someone complains of a similar issue:

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1029&message=34025535&changemode=1

One other thing I see is that the 18-55mm lens seems to have more threads (they go further into the barrel).

Anyone know if this is an issue that comes up somewhat commonly? I have contacted the seller on this issue, but trying gather information as I wait for a response.

Thanks for any help.

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20mm/2.8USM hood question

Hello, newbie here.... quick question

I had a 20mm/2.8 USM and hood that got stolen with some other photo gear.

I liked the lens, so naturally I replaced it. Problem is, the new hood wont stay in place, no matter what.

The hood is the Canon one, not aftermarket. You align the dots, give it all of 1/4 inch of twist and its "on".

I tried another Canon hood, thinking I had a bad hood. Same thing.

So now my mind is playing tricks on me. I seem to recall that the hood had that familiar "click" and locked in place when mounted. Am I going nuts, or did something change? I used my first 20mm a fair amount, but just about never took the hood off, and neither did it ever fall off. On the new lens and hood combination, the hood rotates darn near on its own, cuts off the corners when doing so, then just falls off the lens. Hanging my 5d2 from my side and walking about with the lens and hood, will result in the hood falling off.

Any help, greatly appreciated!~~

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New Tilt-Shifts in 2013? [CR1]

HTML:
<div name="googleone_share_1" style="position:relative;z-index:5;float: right; /*margin: 70px 0 0 0;*/ top:70px; right:120px; width:0;"><g:plusone size="tall" count="1" href="http://www.canonrumors.com/2012/07/new-tilt-shifts-in-2013-cr1/"></g:plusone></div><div class="tweetmeme_button" style="float: right; margin:0 0 70px 70px;"><a class="tm_button" rel="&style=normal&b=2" href="http://www.canonrumors.com/2012/07/new-tilt-shifts-in-2013-cr1/"></a></div>
<strong>New Tilt-Shift lenses in 2013?


</strong>The 45mm and 90mm tilt-shifts have been on the replacement cycle for a while now, probably since the day after the 17mm and latest 24mm tilt-shifts were announced a few years ago.</p>
<p>Apparently we’re going to see a new 45mm and 90mm tilt-shift announced in 2013. Both of the lenses will receive the “L” treatment and the updated movement mechanisms. I would like to see the lock knobs built a bit better, I found them to be unreliable in the rental world and they are quite an expensive repair.</p>
<p>Also coming in 2013?  A new “specialist lens”. I’m not completely sure what would be considered a specialist lens, although a new macro would probably fit the bill.</p>
<p>Source: [<a href="http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/Canon_new_lenses.html" target="_blank">NL</a>]</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

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When does the age of a pro lens influence the price? or does it?

I recently saw a 400 f2.8 for sale, but it had a UN06 date code, which is a 6/1999 manufacture date. The price was in line with much newer lenses, but towards the low side.

Is there a point where the age influences the pricing a bit? Yeah, the glass doesn't "wear out", but there are parts inside that may. Could the lens mount could be replaced to conceal brassing from use?

What is the expected service life of the IS portion? I suspect there is no way anyone outside of CPS would know the "on" time of the IS unit.

The rubber seals?

Lots of "touch up" paint?

Or, is it just buy one and hope it lasts.....

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