Unfortunately I do not have the option to perform a full calibration at the moment, so I am going to have to settle with AFMA for at least one more month.

I understand that in most cases settings are different for different units, but I am just curious as to what AFMA settings people use for head / torso / full body shots.

I myself find that mine produces slightly sharper images at +5, when shooting from a ~1m. distance.

I am in the dilemma of buying either of the above cameras. My friend has a 40D and he's asking for $320 (body only) and his camera has 15K actuations on it. My brother insists that for the same money, I could easily find a XS with kit lens.

In some forums, people are saying that 40D had a bad shutter durability record. However, XS seems to me a lower end product of canon to me.

My dad promises me to give me a few of his canon lenses to start with if I have a camera body. But, I worry about the err99 and shutter problem.

Can anybody enlighten me in this regard and help me to make a decision.

I'm looking at starting to shoot portrait shots of my new child and trying to figure out if I need a filter to help the photos come out better.

any suggestions?

Both my 5d Mk3's are locking up intermittently. So far I've lost two wedding ceremonies from these cameras. I'm using genuine Sandisk extreme pro 32gb cards. I'm trying now to induce the problem at home to see if I can work out what is going on. So far it seems to me that the camera may be trying to write a file larger than fat32 will allow. Times the cameras have locked up have been around the moment the camera is about to split the file and start a new file to reach the 29 min mark. When the problem happens the footage starts to skip on the display for about 3 seconds then freezes. Only taking the battery out will unfreeze the camera. The footage of the previous 12 mins is lost completely. Does any one know of a forum dealing with this problem I can join? Canon really need to do something about this ASAP. The camera is useless for events until you can trust it will not loose your footage!

Trying to decide between the S100 and SX260. Camera will be used solely in Auto mode. Much feifference in IQ? Solely interested in still shots, no video. This will be used as my sole camera for all purposes.

Is there a way to use a remote trigger (wireless) on a 5D MkII when shooting tethered? I am finding that the remote trigger does not work in live view mode. What I am trying to do is have a tethered laptop show the image in a photo booth so that users can see that everyone is in the scene, and then be able to use a wireless remote to trigger the shutter... i.e. I don't need to be attending to the booth the entire time. I know having a monitor is possible (I don't know how), and I was hoping it could be done via a laptop since I have that already. Any pointers for setting up this scenario would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance.

I bought a 5D3 to replace a 5D2 and 7D - and feel like the 5D3 images I'm getting after cropping are noticeably softer than those my 5D2 produced! I've heard that complaint from other people, too (seen quite a number of threads, including here at CR) and have seen various responses to that. I have seen other people post and get helpful feedback, so I'd love to get people's opinions on whether they think the hyperlinked pictures are soft when zooming in (up to 100%)? I first noticed softness when zooming in before 100%, and then decided to compare 5DMkII images side to side and definitely felt in a lot of my 5D3 shots it wasn't as sharp...

FYI, this is NOT a RAW software issue that some other people had - I shoot in JPEG, and notice the perceived softness relative to the 5D2 when zooming in on the LCD screen, too. I have NOT yet done any focus micro-adjustment, but still think the shots are able to be analyzed for detail sharpness when zooming in. I had other shots which appeared softer, which I'm not including: I'd rather show what I think are relatively sharp shots, to see if those have more softness than they should.

People, please give me your feedback on whether there is more softness when zooming in than there should be! That being said, please don't add comments about why you shouldn't "pixel peep" or what could be improved about the composition - these aren't the best pictures as these were shots taken purely for posting here.

I am attaching a link to a sampling of various 5D3 photos I've shot. These are SOOC, and haven't been edited. Since I'm throwing in a variety, I am not listing all the camera settings (although I believe when you save the photo to your computer you can see the EXIF data and make judgments accordingly). The lenses I use are the 24-105L, 70-200 2.8 IS II, and 100mm Macro (non-IS).

5D3 Samples: LINK http://www.glenargov.com/Other/5D3-Test/24800438_Zw5jbH#!i=2029849496&k=73Mshxf

5D2 Samples (with same lenses):
http://www.glenargov.com/Other/5D-2-Samples/24804618_8rnbGd

Please get back to me ASAP as I need to make a decision whether to keep the 5D3 or return it. Thank you in advance!

I love this non-L lens but I find many here dismiss it as real choice for good results. Here are some examples of the work I've done with it. Please post your shots.

Again I find myself in a state of rage and I am cursing all responsible canon managers. Having shot a group of people at a wedding six times I now find out - sitting in front of my 24 inch screen - that the autofocus six times chose the wall behind the group... I accept one can go wrong once or even twice. But not six times out of six. It is clearly a problem of the product. In the particular case a 1D IV paired with a 24-70 2.8.

Back in 2005 I bought a 5D. It focused well and was a great camera in general. Since then I bought a 1D III which could not autofocus at all. I spent about 7000 $ for a camera that can't autofocus and nobody from canon could or wanted to help me. Then I bought a 5D II. In much too many cases the autofocus just goes wrong. Then I bought a 1D IV. Another 7000 $. And again in much too many cases the autofocus is not working properly (as in the case described above). All in all I spent 17'000 $ on cameras from Canon which can not (or not often enough) autofocus.

Now I come to the point: I feel like going for a new body but I am not willing (and able...) to spend even more money on cameras that just don't deliver what the are priced for. So I would appreciate feedback regarding the quality of the autofocus from people who use the 5D III or 1DX. Critical, honest and heavy users and people who have to deliver to customers. Is the autofocus in the mentioned cameras good - ore just LESS BAD but still not as it should be with such a price tag? Your feedback would help me a lot!

By the way. If you wonder how stupid one can be to still think of buying Canon gear: I have a wide range of lenses from 14 2.8 up to 500 4 and would like to still use it in the future.

If you want to have a look on what level I work you can have a look here: www.peoplephotography.ch

I know that the GP-E2 is available for the newer Canon bodies. I notice that there are a lot of third party options for Nikon bodies. Anyone know of inexpensive way to get gps tagging without the 250$ price tag? I have found solutions for nikon costing 40$ that looks very similar to what the gp-e2 achieves. I have tried EyeFi and I think it is a waste of time. (too small capacity, and it must be uploaded to eyefi and besides it not really GPS, it wont work where there aren't any hotspots). What are my options of i want GPS tagging in Exif, and lightroom comaptible?

Have you seen this?? is for real.

Pentax, no need to say more.

http://photorumors.com/2012/02/25/what-were-they-thinking/

Cheers, Nico

Hello, all. Looking for an ND filter. I heard that for using fast primes (faster than f1.4) in sunlight, a 3-stop ND is ideal, but for waterfalls and moving clouds, a 9- to 10-stop is better. Any advice on which one to get? Thanks.

Both B&H and Amazon are selling the 5D mark II at $1979. Does this mean the new entry level FF body is coming soon?

So I recently got a 500mm f/4.5 I bought the lens of course for the focal length. So, I popped it on the 5D mark 3 expecting the image quality to be fantastic! So, I went out front where I have a bird feeder, and set the lens on a tripod about maybe 20-30 feet away from the feeder. When birds would fly in and land bam, focus was snappy and lock on instantly to take the picture. The images looked dead sharp on my LCD. But when I put them in my computer non cropped or zoomed in the images would be sharp where I focused. However if I zoomed or cropped in to a bird the bird would be soft. Yet the feeder or something next to it would be sharp. So I tried micro adjusting the lens many many many many many many times lol, and cannot tell a difference. From far away, up close medium range they are all dead sharp and when I zoom or crop in I cannot tell a difference. They all look exactly the same. Does anyone know if maybe I'm to far away from the small bird and if I want to take a picture of one it needs to be closer? Or am I doing something wrong as far as using the lens sense I'm new to the super telephoto range?? Also, if the lens is at f/8+ they are super crisp and sharp. So if anyone can help please please post lol thanks

It's no Dubai, but Kansas City is my home and I love it! This was my first outing with my new (to me) 5D Mark II.

Hello all, long time reader and first time poster.

I've recently jumped from crop to FF with the new 5D after piling up a few lenses with with crop cameras. Please file me under 'poorly self-taught enthusiast' -- no teaching, perhaps 30k exposures of flight time logged.

Though I have the standard 24-70 F/2.8L zoom (Mk I) and 50 F/1.4, I feel these lenses don't fully serve me in my walkaround needs. I've recently moved from a very small town to a major city, and I'd like to bring the camera along as I discover my new home. Weight and size precludes bringing the 24-70 around everywhere. Though the 50 prime is often my walkaround, my most troublesome environment is wide, indoors, low light. This comes up a lot, as I'm often out with friends at a cramped bar / restaurant and have to sandwich all their faces together. I'm not just shooting candids -- everywhere in this city is compacted into small spaces where width gives me more elbow room for composition. I also don't carry a flash with me in my travels, so even with the 5D3's great low light performance, I need something very quick.

So I have rented the 35 F/1.4L and the new 28 F/2.8 IS to test them out head to head, with the intention of buying one of the two. I've opted out of the 24 F/1.4L II as I feel that the 24mm FOV on FF is great for landscapes, but clearly shows distorted view of closer objects. I also love circular polarizers for outdoor shooting, but 24mm on FF shows that FOV quasi-vignetting thing that I'd like to avoid.

I know many pros on this forum have thrown their hands up at the new 24mm and 28mm primes for still shooters -- why give IS to a wide lens, these are meant for video, I'll take the F/1.4 over the F/2.8 with IS, etc. But I'd like to understand that better in the context of my shooting style/need.

I ask because from everything I've seen, the 28 is just as good if not better than the 35L in my hands from a few days of shooting. Keep in mind, I'm not a super pixel peeper guy. I leave that for the testing guys, and if you spotted the LensRentals.com posting, the 28 @ 2.8 is within a hair of the resolution performance of the 24 F/1.4L II stopped down to 2.8. As you'd expect, the 24 F/1.4L II was considerably softer fully open. Unfortunately, I don't have the same data in the same test for the 35L, but it's (from other sites) in the same ballpark as the 24 F/1.4L II.

So, after all that, my question is this. As I'm not shooting moving targets where the 1.4 will buy me a usefully faster shutter speed, wouldn't I rather use the new 28 @ 2.8 with its four stops of IS at a higher overall IQ than the 35L wide open? In my unique need, isn't the new 28 a better choice?

I ask because though I am not shy about buying L glass (I own quite a few), the 28 is small, light, sharp, and surprisingly well built -- as good as any non-L I've seen. Further, the 35L looks and feels far *less* solid than my other L glass, and the design is certainly dated. I know people have raved about the 35L, but is this non-L perhaps the better lens for me?

As an engineer and legendary overthinker in RL, I've spreadsheeted it up like I do for most tough calls. See attached with the grain of salt that I am a non-pro and non-pixel peeper. See link: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0Bw1Ov5b4ZHg1ZGRCamEtd2ZITjg

I welcome all commentary on this lens decision. Thanks in advance for your help!

- A

While I do not own a EOS-1D X, I would like to start two threads for the new EOS cameras. This thread is here for you to offer shooting tips be it lighting and exposures with the 1dx, focus points, Autofocus Case settings, Iso's, anything that you select in camera to get your best image captures for what you do. Please be generous with your tips, this will be a big help for all who own the camera!

I personally own the EOS 5D Mark III, I would like to start two threads for the new EOS cameras. This thread is here for you to offer shooting tips be it lighting and exposures with the 5D Mark III, focus points, Autofocus Case settings, Iso's, anything that you select in camera to get your best image captures for what you do. Please be generous with your tips, this will be a big help for all who own the camera!

Should be going to the Leuchars airshow on Sept 15th here in Scotland and, since it's the first airshow I'll have been to in over 20yrs, wondered about the best choice of lenses.

Main gear will be 5D3 plus 300mm 2.8 IS (and Kenko 1.4x TC) (without monopod as I think it would be too restrictive).

However now the problem starts - do I also take:

24-105mm for static stuff (B-52!!) and wider field of view flying shots (Red Arrows/Patrouille de France)

or

17-40mm for static aircraft and 70-200mm f4 IS for Red Arrows/Patrouille de France?

No doubt some will say take it all but I want to travel as light as possible but not miss shots by leaving stuff at home. Bearing in mind I'll also be carrying food and water for a long day.

Next part of the question is: to ensure razor sharp shots of the flying displays am I better shooting at, say, f8 and let the 5d3 take care of the rest or shoot close to wide open to maintain high shutter speed and rely on the focus tracking of the 5D3 to keep up with fast jets?

Any opinions and airshow example shots would be appreciated.

Guy.

$39 for 16"x20" Customized Metal-Printed Photograph from MetalPixs with Shipping Included ($153.95 Total Value)

http://www.groupon.com/deals/gg-16x20-customizable-photo-on-metal?c=all&p=7

I ordered one, thought I would pass it on.

I would like to use one of these 2 lenses for wedding photography mainly. After reading ton of reviews it looks like both options are excellent and give good results, however I don't have time to set up tripod just to shoot the rings for example. I never used micro lens so I'm hoping to get some advice. Basically it comes down to the price. Do you think IS worth double the price, also if you think I should be looking in to some other lenses please let me know.
Thanks in advance.

I'm trying to improve my PP skills, so, advise is welcome!


25-105mm@24 | ISO 100 | 1/1000 | F/4

Large version: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/74314625/IMG_1634.jpg

Hi, I'm finally ready to add a wide angle lens to my collection. I mainly want it for landscapes, inside historic houses, and some closeup work (flowers and things). I was thinking the canon 10-22 but I would love to hear opinions on this or other lenses.

Thank you

Hi!

I've been trying to figure this out, but how can I shoot like 5-7 bracketed shots with my 5D markIII ? To make HDR on my own, not using the cameras HDR. I would like to have my own 5-7 RAW-files to play with

I would like to shoot them easy with a remote (Canon TC-80 N3). I've tried to set this up but it don't seem to work?

The ideal thing would be to have a quickmeny to "enable" this, then set the "middle"-point and just "fire away" and the camera takes the 5-7 shots just by holding down the remote trigger-button or something.

Any tips/ideas how to do this? Any guide? Have tried to google it aswell as playing with the manual but didn't find any good pages for it.

Best regards
Fredrik