6D not usable for shooting video?

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schmidtfilme

Photographer / Documentary Filmmaker
Sep 5, 2012
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www.35photo.de
Hello,

I think many like myself are thinking about getting the 6D for video instead of the Mark 3 as it is about $1000 cheaper. So I ordered one early Dec 12 for shooting video. Unfortunately I found out pretty fast that the moire and aliasing issues are so bad that the camera is unusable for video production. I sold it on eBay and now bought the Canon 5D Mark 3 instead. For taking pictures the camera is wonderful and I can highly recommend it.

To show the moire and aliasing issues I uploaded this simple clip.

http://youtu.be/xo1-8saWqsk

As I thought this might be of general interest I shared it as this buying and selling costed me more pennies then I liked.

Cheers
- Andreas
 
If you have the $1000 more to spend the 5D3 is great, but if not the 6D is a great alternative. We've been filming around moire issues for years with the 5D2 so saying the 6D isn't usable for shooting video is like saying a new Camry isn't drivable because it only goes just as fast as a Camry from a few years ago and not as fast as a new Lexus.

I've been using the 6D for video since it came out. My clients are happy with the results. Other shooters are constantly blown away by the low-light capabilities. If you absolutely have to shoot moire-inducing patterns regularly, and can't get around it by turning the in-camera sharpening off, tweaking focus, or pointing the camera somewhere else, you obviously know which camera to buy. Otherwise, if you can't figure out how to shoot a good video on the 6D spending the extra grand isn't going to help.
 
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titokane said:
If you have the $1000 more to spend the 5D3 is great, but if not the 6D is a great alternative. We've been filming around moire issues for years with the 5D2 so saying the 6D isn't usable for shooting video is like saying a new Camry isn't drivable because it only goes just as fast as a Camry from a few years ago and not as fast as a new Lexus.

I've been using the 6D for video since it came out. My clients are happy with the results. Other shooters are constantly blown away by the low-light capabilities. If you absolutely have to shoot moire-inducing patterns regularly, and can't get around it by turning the in-camera sharpening off, tweaking focus, or pointing the camera somewhere else, you obviously know which camera to buy. Otherwise, if you can't figure out how to shoot a good video on the 6D spending the extra grand isn't going to help.

+1

Moire is potentially an issue on any camera, just so happens the roof tiles hit the magic pitch to annoy your sensor. I get the same issue on XDCAMHD when I film anybody with a foxtooth patterned garment. I remember having to butcher a PL filter and fit some stockings in place of the glass on the first firmware version of the VX1000. And I combat moire regularly on my own two cameras and anytime I;ve used a hired 5D2.

So it's not an issue unique to the 6D.

I treat everything I shoot on a DSLR. Bare minimum is a half pixel guassian blur over everything. I can use up to 1.125 on something really bad.

Things that help:

Keeping everything progressive. From your transcoding or interpretation, to your timeline field order to your output codec, to your DVD or BR burning. Its a progressive camera, make sure everything else in the chain is progressive. Don't a assume. Check.

Marvels DSLR plug-in can help if applied with care.

If you have a locked off shot you can also selectively apply blur using garbage matting.

If none of this makes sense, then I've over pitched it. You may have got a dud 6D. You probably didn't. And someday you'll hit a fabric or texture that does this to your 5D3.

Like titokane said, learn to shoot around it, via on camera settings and or how to fix it in post.
 
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Yeah wow that's quite a mess. I've heard other similar complaints. It's hard to say for sure without shooting the same scene with both but I swear that looks noticeably worse than even the 5D2 and it's obviously miles worse than the 5D3!

Yeah for video the 6D is 100% not the way to get their more cheaply than the 5D3 if you don't need the fps and fancy AF and all (I do in my case anyway, but for those who don't....).
 
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titokane said:
If you have the $1000 more to spend the 5D3 is great, but if not the 6D is a great alternative. We've been filming around moire issues for years with the 5D2 so saying the 6D isn't usable for shooting video is like saying a new Camry isn't drivable because it only goes just as fast as a Camry from a few years ago and not as fast as a new Lexus.

I've been using the 6D for video since it came out. My clients are happy with the results. Other shooters are constantly blown away by the low-light capabilities. If you absolutely have to shoot moire-inducing patterns regularly, and can't get around it by turning the in-camera sharpening off, tweaking focus, or pointing the camera somewhere else, you obviously know which camera to buy. Otherwise, if you can't figure out how to shoot a good video on the 6D spending the extra grand isn't going to help.

It depends upon what you shoot. If you shoot natural world stuff or outdoors and don't want to have to pick and chose the few things you can shoot the 6D will no way cut it. If all you do it planned studio shoots or planned scenes where you can pick your outdoor background maybe you can get away with it, but that is an entirely different sort of shooting, not everyone does only that sort of shooting.
 
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LetTheRightLensIn said:
It depends upon what you shoot. If you shoot natural world stuff or outdoors and don't want to have to pick and chose the few things you can shoot the 6D will no way cut it. If all you do it planned studio shoots or planned scenes where you can pick your outdoor background maybe you can get away with it, but that is an entirely different sort of shooting, not everyone does only that sort of shooting.

I shoot documentary type work with it -- run and gun from indoor to outdoor, brick walls, wood grain, circus nets, buffets, beaches, forests, network racks, stone temples, seminars, everything near far and in between. That's why I love this camera -- it's great in any sort of lighting situation, which is something I often can't control (or am not allowed to control). I have the sharpening set to 0 (important) and get it back in post. I take a brief moment to set exposure, framing, focus, and then I'm off. I've literally never had to discard a shot from the 6D because of moire issues.

The 6D cuts it. This is from experience using it with it set up properly, which most people complaining about it don't have.
 
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titokane said:
LetTheRightLensIn said:
It depends upon what you shoot. If you shoot natural world stuff or outdoors and don't want to have to pick and chose the few things you can shoot the 6D will no way cut it. If all you do it planned studio shoots or planned scenes where you can pick your outdoor background maybe you can get away with it, but that is an entirely different sort of shooting, not everyone does only that sort of shooting.

I shoot documentary type work with it -- run and gun from indoor to outdoor, brick walls, wood grain, circus nets, buffets, beaches, forests, network racks, stone temples, seminars, everything near far and in between. That's why I love this camera -- it's great in any sort of lighting situation, which is something I often can't control (or am not allowed to control). I have the sharpening set to 0 (important) and get it back in post. I take a brief moment to set exposure, framing, focus, and then I'm off. I've literally never had to discard a shot from the 6D because of moire issues.

The 6D cuts it. This is from experience using it with it set up properly, which most people complaining about it don't have.

Interesting that nobody else has sharpness 0 magically curing all moire.
 
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LetTheRightLensIn said:
Interesting that nobody else has sharpness 0 magically curing all moire.

Never said it 'magically cures all moire,' but I'm pretty sure you know that. There are very specific circumstances that will cause the 6D to show moire, and it's most pronounced (like in the above clip) when sharpness is turned up. It's much lower (though still present) when the camera isn't doing broad-stroke sharpening to the image. Moire is an issue when you film things that will obviously produce moire, so small framing and focus adjustments can normally make the problem less serious than filming rows of parallel lines, which the majority of videographers don't do. These small, often on-the-fly adjustments are what professionals do every time they put a camera in their hand.

I don't whip-pan a DSLR because the sensor doesn't scan globally. I don't film completely overexposed content because I can't recover the highlights. I don't shoot on class 2 memory cards because they're not fast enough. And I don't crank the in-camera sharpening up, shoot tons of fine pattern detail that a line-skipping sensor can't properly resolve, and then get angry at the camera when it doesn't look right.

There's a tool for every situation. The 6D is great for plenty of them. Certainly more than enough for it to be "usable shooting video."
 
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Hi all,

I didn't post this little clip and my experience to be a pixel peeper and I added a "?" to the title. I think it is for everyone to decide wether he wants to spend $1000 more on a 5D M3.

I bought the 6D and I was fully aware of the test by Johnnie Behiri on Vimeo:

https://vimeo.com/54352877

and I found it quite acceptable for me. At least for a $1000 difference in price. But what I saw back at home after my first shooting of a festival just made me fall of my chair. Please watch the roofs on my little clip - the are blue flickering "BLUE !" instead just plain red. Defocussing when everything is at infinity might be an option but honestly - not a very good one.

Second - I did post this here just to help everyone to make an informed buying decision as I believe a lot of people are very interested in this camera.

Maybe here is another interesting video to understand the differences:

Canon Full Frame Shootout! Canon EOS 6D vs Canon EOS 5D Mark III vs Canon EOS 5D Mark II

Overall I really loved the 6D. Very solid build, good menus. Everything besides that moire and aliasing. I was really sad to let it go.

Cheers
Andreas
 
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titokane said:
LetTheRightLensIn said:
Interesting that nobody else has sharpness 0 magically curing all moire.

Never said it 'magically cures all moire,' but I'm pretty sure you know that. There are very specific circumstances that will cause the 6D to show moire, and it's most pronounced (like in the above clip) when sharpness is turned up. It's much lower (though still present) when the camera isn't doing broad-stroke sharpening to the image. Moire is an issue when you film things that will obviously produce moire, so small framing and focus adjustments can normally make the problem less serious than filming rows of parallel lines, which the majority of videographers don't do. These small, often on-the-fly adjustments are what professionals do every time they put a camera in their hand.

I don't whip-pan a DSLR because the sensor doesn't scan globally. I don't film completely overexposed content because I can't recover the highlights. I don't shoot on class 2 memory cards because they're not fast enough. And I don't crank the in-camera sharpening up, shoot tons of fine pattern detail that a line-skipping sensor can't properly resolve, and then get angry at the camera when it doesn't look right.

There's a tool for every situation. The 6D is great for plenty of them. Certainly more than enough for it to be "usable shooting video."

Yeah the not usable for any video is going way too far, but OTOH I think it is good that the OP makes it clear that there is a video difference between the 5D3 and the 6D and it's not just the fps and AF and such that are different and that it is not a trivial difference.

Giving slight focus misses can sometimes help a bit, but that won't work for every scenario.

And it's not just regular brick patterns, it is ripple patterns on lakes, long thing branches, wires, tiny Christmas lights moving in the wind appearing to flicker on and off as they hit part of the sensor that is sampled or not sampled, etc.

When they release a filter for it I'm sure it will help, not perfectly but definitely help, although it makes it more of a pain to use as the little do everything cam since each time you go back for a few stills snaps you have to mess with the filter.

Anyway, I'm sure the 6D is plenty usable for video, but it certainly has it's issues (on top of all the ones the 5D3 itself has), some may be OK with that for the savings but for those who go 5D3 instead you certainly get something extra in the video department as well as just the stills and general handling department.
 
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Sometimes XDCAM just hasn't the colour depth.

Sometimes a Digibeta or HDCAM is just too conspicuous.

Sometimes a Red runs too hot.

Sometimes a GoPro just isn't enough.

Every camera has concessions. And the major concessions the 6D has, are nowhere near solved by having a 5D3.

It used to be the 5D2 bores. Glad they've been more upwardly mobile this time. If you are a 5D3 user and you want to pith all over the 6D's parade then have fun. The guys shooting on C300's, Sony F's or Arri's haven't even noticed you are in the room.

It is all relative. If somebody is capable of getting good video out of a 5D3, then they will be capable of getting good video out of a 6D.

Both the 6D and 5D3 are good video cameras, but the superiority complex 5D3 users really are having a big old laugh to themselves when it comes to moire etc.
 
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paul13walnut5 said:
Sometimes XDCAM just hasn't the colour depth.

Sometimes a Digibeta or HDCAM is just too conspicuous.

Sometimes a Red runs too hot.

Sometimes a GoPro just isn't enough.

Every camera has concessions. And the major concessions the 6D has, are nowhere near solved by having a 5D3.

It used to be the 5D2 bores. Glad they've been more upwardly mobile this time. If you are a 5D3 user and you want to pith all over the 6D's parade then have fun. The guys shooting on C300's, Sony F's or Arri's haven't even noticed you are in the room.

It is all relative. If somebody is capable of getting good video out of a 5D3, then they will be capable of getting good video out of a 6D.

Both the 6D and 5D3 are good video cameras, but the superiority complex 5D3 users really are having a big old laugh to themselves when it comes to moire etc.

I strongly disagree. The 5D Mark II remains a very nice camera, but its low light is poor, the codec has issues, and for wide shots in particular the aliasing can be terrible. Everyone knew this even while they were using it. For certain jobs it's just as good as a Mark III, and it's a viable camera for most purposes, but I feel confident walking in with a Mark III that I can deliver everything a client expects, except resolution on par with high end systems. With the Mark II, I'm worried about wide shots, low light, fabric, and hair. Projected large, there's a difference in wide shots in particular. Granted I found the upgrade from a t2i I owned (and 5Ds and 7Ds when available) to a 5D III to offer depreciating returns, but all the major problems (noise past 800 ISO, unacceptable amounts of skew, unacceptable aliasing, etc.) are tempered. Saving $1000 and getting a 6D for video and suffering many of the same problems seems foolish. That said, upgrading from a 5D Mark II might be very unnecessary depending on your needs. It sounds like your needs don't require the strengths a Mark III provides over a 6D or 5D Mark II. But there are people for whom the difference is getting a shot and not getting it. Technically all three cameras can produce visible aliasing, but look at the video posted above. Only one camera provides consistently acceptable results on fine patterns.

Furthermore, none of the camera systems you've listed (digibeta and go pro?) are comparable in any way to dSLRs and wouldn't be used for the same productions. Apples and oranges. Whereas the 6D and 5D III are like... apples and apples that are much better for certain types of video.

The F3, Epic, and Alexa are likewise suited for a different kind of production. It's not like they're even better or worse (in terms of IQ, they're better, though the Epic has mediocre low light), they're simply designed to be operated by more people on a bigger set, provide a more flexible image, and interface better with a traditional crew. They're designed mostly for TV production and theatrical features. dSLRs are more crash cams and web video. There are jobs for which a dSLR is much better than an Alexa, and even if you're lucky enough to be hired for narrative production, I doubt you'll encounter many shoots without a dSLR tucked away somewhere grabbing the odd insert.

I'm glad you're off in Alexa land ignoring us dSLR shooters who are off your map, but there are shooters who won't find a 6D useable and who will find a 5D Mark III great. There are also users for whom the difference will be virtually unnoticeable. For talking heads (and assuming no issues with moire in hair or fabric) both are just about as good. For wide shots, fast motion (skew and the ALL-I codec matter), and low light the difference is worth more than $1000.

To some people. Just as the $60,000 step up into Arri land is likely worth it to you! (And I'm in agreement, the Alexa is just the best thing going for narrative production, not that I can get hired to shoot on one.)
 
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My core point is that all cameras have issues, the op picked up moire, the 5d3 will moire, as has any ccd or cmos camera I've used in the right (wrong) situation.

And The reason I never bought a 5d2 is exactly ad you've described,
ML had the hack as I was buying, but the wide angles were better (effective focal length for focal length) the jellio far less and the depth of field more managable, out the box pal, full hd video preview, better stills performance for my shooting etc etc.

If the answer is to buy a new camera then the question is all wrong.

Can't fix moire on a 6d not going to be able to fix it on s 5d3, when it inevitably will occur.

In the middle of making the business case for a pair of c100's and I'm considering one for my personal freelance kit.

Not the best codec, but for the occasions something above 8bit is required I'll hire a samuri.

For this specific shot, of those tiles eith that lens at that setting, a 5d3 MAY have been better.

But that really is missing the point.
 
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I don't entirely agree. The moire on the 5D Mark III is dramatically less than on all other Canon dSLRs, excepting the 1DC. It's no worse than most video-specific cameras; the other dSLRs are MUCH worse. It samples the entire chip (through binning) whereas others skip pixel lines. Because of that, the low light and moire reduction are worlds better than the other Canon dSLRs and on par with what you'd see in a 100% magnified still. Worlds better.

Resolution, DR, color depth, etc. is the same. But moire is dramatically better. Whether it's an issue for you is up to you, but I've seen that sample video's results repeated time and time again any time brick walls or fabric or certain textures of hair enters the frame. For more organic, low frequency material the difference is imperceptible. If you shoot certain kinds of material frequently, the 5D Mark III might be the only Canon dSLR that's useable. I've shot on the Mark II, 7D, t2i, t3i, a few Nikons, the GH2, etc. and pretty extensively. (Also, the Epic, F3, and I've done a lot of post with Alexa footage, which is the best of all by far.) And the GH2 and Mark III are the only two dSLR-type cameras without aggravating levels of moire.

The C100's HDMI is 8 bit. Only the F3, Alexa, and Red offer 10 bit log or 14 bit linear or whatever. Its c log is also fake log with the highlights compressed wrong and over saturated, whereas Sony and Arri have true log curves. That said, it looks like a nice camera and a more worthy, versatile upgrade for videographers than any dSLR, the 1DC included.

It took me a lot of use to notice the differences between the Mark III and the other dSLRs I shoot with, but the difference is there. How much have you shot side-by-side with both? I promise if you shoot both with the right material (such as the test posted above) you'll quickly notice a difference that is dramatic and significant to many videographers. What do you do when faced with fabric that induces moire? You can't always tell the talent to change or throw it out of focus -- and the problem is often less visible in the viewfinder than in the footage itself.

All Canon dSLRs (excepting the 1DC) still have poor resolution and DR and grade poorly in post relative to true video cameras, granted, and I agree the C100 is a more worthy upgrade for video. By far. But just because you don't need moire reduction and low light doesn't mean others won't.
 
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