I completely agree with this. I think that the primary benefit of the D800 comes in terms of what it allows you to do in PP. You can shove those sliders around with relative impunity where you probably need to be more careful with a Canon solution. The same could be said for the 36 MP where you can leave more room to crop and fiddle with the composition later in post (you pay the price for that in file size, download speed etc. but that has been kicked about forever as well). Incidentally, I saw this image series on DPR one other time you posted it and it was this set that I had in mind when making the post. The images are definitely usable, but I cannot say the same for a lot of the stuff we are entertained with. Bob has a good one of the girl in the red dress as well where I like the D800 available light shot better than the one he lit.horshack said:David Hull said:Just about anyone who knew what they were doing (and was actually trying to make a good, low noise image as opposed to a bad, noisy one) could have done a good job on this scene using either of these cameras. The fact that this guy did not only speaks for his choice of technique not for the quality of the equipment. These shots were made with a deliberate bias to make a specific point. However, in most of these “examples” it turns out to be a moot point because (in almost every case), not only could the image be made with either camera but a dramatically better image could be made with either camera if that were your goal (that is assuming you know how to use your camera correctly).
Based on the examples continually put up, the number of real images that actually demand application of a single shot technique with serious shadow lifting must be pretty few and far between (otherwise we would not be continually entertained with the junk we are always shown). In this particular case the guy went to Mono Lake and Yosemite and he shows a whole series of magnificent images shot with the Canon gear. Apparently he could not find a real world example in that usually very challenging environment where the Canon gear was not up to the task.
While this particular parameter provides plenty of fodder for the endless sabre rattling over which brand is superior to the other, in the real world of practical photography (save for a small number of specific applications executed over a pretty narrow range of the ISO capability of the equipment) it appears to be pretty much a nonstarter. I would guess that you could probably type out the screen names for everyone that has ever participated in these types of threads on one side of a single sheet of A size paper which is probably not enough to produce noticeable movement on the Canon/Nikon market share needle.
Incidentally, the example we are discussing has to do with pattern noise which has nothing whatsoever to do with the thing the DxO curve is reporting.
Hi Dave, nice to run into one of the other screen names that participates in these threadsI would agree that nearly every High DR scene can be captured using techniques that don't require a High DR sensor. But one benefit of such sensor is workflow time savings. Here is a recent example where I shot a home interior for a friend for his real estate listing (using a D800). I wanted maximum IQ so I used two-shot blends for all the shots which had windows, to exhibit the woodsy setting outside his home. In this example it took me 20 minutes to manually blend the image, which I did in PS using layers and masks around the windows. For kicks I also performed the same exposure adjustment using a single image, which took me about 3 minutes. The latter has more noise than the two-shot blend but it's still perfectly usable even at the native 36MP resolution...and much more so at the resolutions the images were displayed at for the MLS listing. If you multiply this by 10 photos then the time savings can be significant...compared to either blends or interior strobe set ups.
Full 36MP Images:
Orig lower exposure image: http://horshack.smugmug.com/photos/i-pVMB6WN/0/O/i-pVMB6WN-O.jpg
Two-shot blend: http://horshack.smugmug.com/photos/i-VBVhdth/0/O/i-VBVhdth-O.jpg
One-shot HDR/shadow push: http://horshack.smugmug.com/photos/i-DGKLj57/0/O/i-DGKLj57-O.jpg
Chosenbydestiny said:Right, but you're supposed to be a photographer first and an editor second. DR doesn't help you when you're actually taking your shot, though it might give you peace of mind knowing the very basics of exposing an image is no longer relevant.
ankorwatt said:Its good to have one of the best lenses out there and tell people how good it is but not so important that the sensor is the best regarding measurements
remarkable attitude
unfocused said:awinphoto said:Aglet said:awinphoto said:.. learn how to expose properly, and take some freaking pictures for God sake or sell your gear and jump to sony for all I care... Just stop this nonsense.
how do YOU "expose properly" for a scene that exceeds your Canon's DR?
Are you content to clip highlites and shadows and live with the out-of-camera tone curve for every shot?
If so, your advice may not register with the more artistic photographers.
Aglet Aglet Aglet ::Shakes head:: I expose the way I expose...Dear god son, this is photo 101, well maybe 102. This isn't hard...A real photographer knows what needs to be done, and makes the photo even better...This is pure pixel peeping madness and it's disgusting.
Awinphoto gets some positive Karma from me today (yeah...yeah...no more Karma. I know)
This is something I really don't get with the dynamic range fetishism. I LIKE images that go from pure black to pure white. Usually, I'm not trying to reproduce exactly what is in nature, I'm trying to interpret it and that often means eliminating extraneous detail in shadows and highlights. Photography is all about simplifying nature. I enjoy the challenge of taking the chaos of the real world and turning it into a simple, graphic statement.
What idiot looks at an Edward Weston image and screams: "Oh my God. This is terrible, he lost the shadow detail!"
awinphoto said:If a scene is too dark, brighten it, if you cant brigten it without over exposing something else, use flash, or even better off camera flash, or reflector or some other way to manipulate the light. Dear god son, this is photo 101, well maybe 102. This isn't hard. A real photographer doesn't blame his gear for not getting the shot. A real photographer knows what needs to be done, and makes the photo even better.
Chosenbydestiny said:MichaelHodges said:Chosenbydestiny said:I love how people keep arguing over the sensors and how much more DR they actually need. These people aren't photographers, they're editors with cameras. Tons of DR is like a crutch for them. Wow, they screwed up their shots,, shouldn't that mean they have to live and learn from loss? Lazy. Such a worthless excuse for a petty argument.
This really doesn't make any sense. Every good songwriter, author, or photographer is also a good editor. It's always been that way.
Also it's odd (IMHO) to excuse away technological advancement for the sake of technique. Why can't one attain both? Should we have puffed our chest at the implementation of auto-focus? Should we have held our noses at IS? After all, good technique can nullify those as well....
Right, but you're supposed to be a photographer first and an editor second. DR doesn't help you when you're actually taking your shot, though it might give you peace of mind knowing the very basics of exposing an image is no longer relevant. At least for however many stops you can recover =P No one has to hold their noses with IS btw, apparently you no longer need the breathing technique to prevent motion blur.
douglas459 said:After reading the rants and proclamations of everyone I am confused. As a photographer I am in charge of the DR, contrast, color, etc. in a photograph. This is the difference between taking photographs and making them. It is called technique. I have been using a trio of 40D's since they came out. On a recent visit to my local camera club, everyone assumed that I was using FF cameras. I didn't tell them about the "ancient" cameras that I was using. Nearly everyone at the club was using a FF camera. One tidbit I picked up from my mentor was that "A real photographer can make a good photograph with any camera." He was right. The first photographs I sold were taken with an adjustable 126 Instamatic! As I write this I am waiting for UPS to deliver my 70D's and I couldn't be happier. While everyone is making needless arguments and making excuses I will be making wonderful photographs with "substandard equipment."
Cheers!
zlatko said:Pi said:zlatko said:I do not find it to be a problem — ever.
Fair enough. I do not find to be a problem most of the time. But when I do, I wish it was not a problem, and that happens often enough to be a problem.
I know these topics get pushed on DPReview, where anonymous know-it-alls try to convince everyone that Canon cameras suck.
Some of those "anonymous know-it-alls" are John Sheehy, Bob (bobn2) and Joe James (Great Bustard); Joe posted here a few weeks ago. They also happen to be some of the most knowledgeable people there, with a few others who share their opinion but are less active.
Sorry, I don't know those people.
I was referring to anonymous people who can and do say whatever they want without any accountability — no one knows who they are or what, if any, photography experience they have. Such people can dominate a forum with their purported (but unseen) expertise. I just don't trust any anonymous person to give me a reliable opinion, let alone to instruct others about a camera's technical details.
awinphoto said:As far as going into a scene with too much DR... what absolute non-sense... I've shot back in the days of 4x5 film, shot transparency, medium format, the early canon DSLRs which had what, 5 stops of DR? If a scene is too dark, brighten it, if you cant brigten it without over exposing something else, use flash, or even better off camera flash, or reflector or some other way to manipulate the light. Dear god son, this is photo 101, well maybe 102. This isn't hard.
LetTheRightLensIn said:unfocused said:awinphoto said:Aglet said:awinphoto said:.. learn how to expose properly, and take some freaking pictures for God sake or sell your gear and jump to sony for all I care... Just stop this nonsense.
how do YOU "expose properly" for a scene that exceeds your Canon's DR?
Are you content to clip highlites and shadows and live with the out-of-camera tone curve for every shot?
If so, your advice may not register with the more artistic photographers.
Aglet Aglet Aglet ::Shakes head:: I expose the way I expose...Dear god son, this is photo 101, well maybe 102. This isn't hard...A real photographer knows what needs to be done, and makes the photo even better...This is pure pixel peeping madness and it's disgusting.
Awinphoto gets some positive Karma from me today (yeah...yeah...no more Karma. I know)
This is something I really don't get with the dynamic range fetishism. I LIKE images that go from pure black to pure white. Usually, I'm not trying to reproduce exactly what is in nature, I'm trying to interpret it and that often means eliminating extraneous detail in shadows and highlights. Photography is all about simplifying nature. I enjoy the challenge of taking the chaos of the real world and turning it into a simple, graphic statement.
What idiot looks at an Edward Weston image and screams: "Oh my God. This is terrible, he lost the shadow detail!"
Certainly for some shots that works better. Certainly there are shots I make where it looks more dramatic to leave large chunks really dark. But there are plenty of shots where that doesn't work better or where the DR is so extreme that you can't even reasonably get away with that high key look.
If you have a brilliant sunbeam shooting through a dark forest and the branches are blowing all over you can be in trouble without a high DR camera. To avoid blowing out the glowingly lit parts the trunks may become too dark even for artistically dark purposes and too noisy too look good at even moderate print size and the scene will be too complex for filters to fix up and the motion may make HDR frame combines get too many artifacts. Just one example. So you say what about slide film days? Well people simple skipped those shots or went to print film and even then often simply skipped them even though some of them could've been really cool.
LetTheRightLensIn said:awinphoto said:If a scene is too dark, brighten it, if you cant brigten it without over exposing something else, use flash, or even better off camera flash, or reflector or some other way to manipulate the light. Dear god son, this is photo 101, well maybe 102. This isn't hard. A real photographer doesn't blame his gear for not getting the shot. A real photographer knows what needs to be done, and makes the photo even better.
A real photographer is apparently only a studio type photographer then. Kind of hard to use umbrellas to fix up the lighting in a shot covering 16 square miles or something no? ;D Or one where the scene changes second to second.
In the other scenarios I mention a real photographer either decides to leave with a technically shaky shot or simply skips it and goes and shoot something that will work out awesome. But wouldn't it be much cooler to have to move on and shoot something else less often?
sdsr said:awinphoto said:As far as going into a scene with too much DR... what absolute non-sense... I've shot back in the days of 4x5 film, shot transparency, medium format, the early canon DSLRs which had what, 5 stops of DR? If a scene is too dark, brighten it, if you cant brigten it without over exposing something else, use flash, or even better off camera flash, or reflector or some other way to manipulate the light. Dear god son, this is photo 101, well maybe 102. This isn't hard.
In practice, it's often not merely hard but impossible; try doing any of those things inside Notre Dame Cathedral, in Times Square, in the alleys of Lugano or at your local farmer's market and see what happens....
celestyx said:LetTheRightLensIn said:and others are physics guys, at least one of word class level (responsible, in part, for one of the great advances in string theory)
String theory has nothing to do with camera sensors. I am also doing research in string theory, this does not make me more competent to express my opinion on dynamic range of camera sensors.
douglas459 said:After reading the rants and proclamations of everyone I am confused. As a photographer I am in charge of the DR, contrast, color, etc. in a photograph. This is the difference between taking photographs and making them. It is called technique. I have been using a trio of 40D's since they came out. On a recent visit to my local camera club, everyone assumed that I was using FF cameras. I didn't tell them about the "ancient" cameras that I was using. Nearly everyone at the club was using a FF camera. One tidbit I picked up from my mentor was that "A real photographer can make a good photograph with any camera." He was right. The first photographs I sold were taken with an adjustable 126 Instamatic! As I write this I am waiting for UPS to deliver my 70D's and I couldn't be happier. While everyone is making needless arguments and making excuses I will be making wonderful photographs with "substandard equipment."
Cheers!