7D + 50mm 1.8

[KBX500]

They are just simple questions.
We all want to know more about the
person we should be worshipping.
Surely one of such omnipotence can't
be afraid of simple questions.

 

[pdirestajr]

This thread has gone down an absurd path.

 

[J Live]

Since you're looking for a cinematic look, my advice would be to shoot 1080p24 at 1/50 with variable ND filters. I think 'twixtering' to 24 will just cause you frustration, watching progress bars and filling Hard drives - just start shooting (and editing) and making mistakes and learning about DOF & camera movement, sequences etc. If you want to get that extra 5% quality bump later on then start seeking more advanced advice about work flow. Shane Hurlbut's work is being blown up to be shown in theatres, even 1% improvement in quality means a lot to him because of that fact, which is also why he uses >$10K lenses. Don't try and aim for anything near that level right out of the gate.

The Prolost forum article (someone mentioned here) on 'flattening your 5D' about adjusting your picture profile from the default settings is very important to do before you shoot anything really important.

I wouldn't necessarily agree with 'not' shooting wide open as some advise here. You sort of have decide for each shot what you want as far as depth of field and go from there - in some cases you may want less than an inch of focus to draw the eye to a certain object on screen - so 1.8 may be the best choice for that particular shot, whereas f11 (deep focus shots) may be better for another shot/scene from a storytelling POV. Decide on your DOF then set your other parameters for proper exposure around that - which generally means (since your shutter speed is locked) either ND filters if you're outside in bright daylight or adjusting ISO inside.

As a small aside, slagging 30p as being 'American TV soap opera.' is simply incorrect - the P stands for progressive and TV has, until quite recently, always been interlaced - so that was 60 fields per second, not 30p - big visual difference. When pro cameras started being able to shoot 30p it was a big deal in the industry - I was almost as happy about the death of interlace as the death of the 4x3 aspect ratio. I shoot almost everything in 1080p30 (29.97) because I work in TV and that's the delivery format required by networks and I often have to incorporate existing footage and motion graphics so conforming from 24p to 29.97 is not a 'good time had by all' - But if I were to work on shorts, features or music videos i'd shoot those projects in 24p.

Good luck

 

[tnelson42345]

So help me out on this please. A slower shutter will equal more of a film look? Or is it just that the sweet spot is around 1/50? Can the shutter be to slow for a film look?

 

[FunkyJam]

J live, thanks a lot for your answer. There's just one thing that is bothering me. Why must I (Yeah I know it's not a must, I can try whatever I want ) shoot at 1/50 when shooting with 24p.

What's does it exactly do? Thanks in advance

 

[Jettatore]

Because that is the standard look for a 24 fps without moving into special effects of a high shutter speed saving private ryan hellzone or a low shutter speed, cars racing around with light trails falling off the back tokyo drift.

 

[rmblack]

also keep in mind if you are shooting with indoor lighting at 1/50th in North America there will be flickering in your footage due to the electricity cylcing at 60hz. (fluorescent or mercury vapor lights) this is because your shutter is out of sync with the electricity 50vs60. so yes, solve it by shooting at 1/60th in these conditions, or 120 etc. if you're going for a specific look. As background, I film freerunning/parkour with my 5DmkII and personally, prefer shooting at 1/125th vs. 1/50th for the action. Shooting at a higher shutter speed is also necessary for "twixtoring," although I don't recommend twixtoring any of the footage from the 5d as, discussed earlier, it's limited to 30p. But shutter speed affects video the same way as photos, if you think about it its just creating 24/30/60/x stills and putting them together in a 1 second time window. good luck with the filming, and if you do try to twixtor with your 60p footage, make sure you are shooting over 1/500th shutter speed and have a plain background (sky, out of focus, etc), and don't allow your subject to move their arm across their body. difference would be - a decent usable twixtor - guy walking towards the camera with arms at sides, no overlap of body. bad twixtor - guy walking past the camera left to right, a lot of overlap of swinging arms. If you visualize your scene in 2D, it is a lot easier to determine how your footage will turn out. I always try to focus on the end goal when I film, and especially with high action shots like freerunning its hard to get things right consistently. good luck!

 

[rmblack]

If you need references for the 1/48th shutter concept -- I can only conclude that you work at Burger King.

Oh dear, is this truly the best you can do to sway the masses to your side? How sad.

haha I've gotta say, I was almost swayed. It did make my laugh out loud and get me some funny looks in the cafe though A rough night on CR it seems lol

 

[tnelson42345]

Should you keep your shutter the same for the entire film? Or should it change from scene to scene?

 

[rmblack]

It should change if you are planning on a different look. Keeping things consistent is good, but sometimes you want to give more impact to a shot, like slow motion. HDSLRs don't shoot over 60fps, so it requires a high shutter speed if you plan on twixtoring your footage in post (which would be required for anything slower than half speed or whatever percent of 100 24/60 is ) hope that helps? maybe someone with more experience shooting will comment

 

[pakosouthpark]

60p would be great if it were 1920x1080, which I suppose can be cropped in post.

that would be soooo good for a 5d mk3!