bad senzor on 5D mark III

Greetings. I own about half a year 5D Mark III, I bought it new, has been used in a conventional manner. After a few weeks I noticed that the photos of the 5D Mark III, they look especially especially when shooting with teleobjetívmi. Pictures showed rozne blot and blur in different parts of the image, for example, in one part of the image was sharp pictures at Swan blurry or like compressed than blob. Compared to my previous camera Canon 5D mark II. I also noticed that when shooting at sunset when I photographed objects that reflect light tower blocks formation of a strong blowout splotchy yellow colors that are not in rawe not be compensated yet know that such a blowout I normally corrected in the old 5D mark II. I shoot in raw format without noise reduction. This problem can be seen especially when shooting with a telephoto lens at a greater distance I tried to angle Canon 300 mm 2.8 IS and Canon 400 mm 5,6 Sorry for my anglish.... :D
 
see thic picture https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwWg_LNGoUDpLW1XY29fV0xIRkE/edit?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwWg_LNGoUDpdnVrWjFDWmlFcnM/edit?usp=sharing

like this download in full resolution from google drive
check out the picture detail especially yellow trees which became literally blot, Typically this happens with yellow but sometimes with other colors. Photography was taken on a tripod at ISO 160 to raw induced in ligtroom. Point out that it is not caused by unsteady air, air polution and not air haze. I photographed these photos regularly with 5D mark II, and such as not blot me
 
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validus1978 said:
Point out that it is not caused by unsteady air, air polution and not air haze.

Looks really strange, but if you shoot raw you should upload a raw file somewhere for debugging. Do you have a second camera you can shoot a comparison with? If the raw file also exhibits this behavior your camera might, just might be broken, you never know.
 
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I shoot gigapixel photo I shoot thousands of images with a telephoto lens I know what he can do and shivering air pollution but such attacks with my 5D Mark II has never done this yourself becoming only the 5D Mark III. Unfortunately 5D Mark II I have already sold. I suspect that the 5D Mark III posterize fine details can be only my concrete. This error does not occur or is it less visible during normal photo shoot with wide-angle lenses etc. Similar problems.and I also had the other settings of ISO 320, 640, etc.
 
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Maybe I misunderstood, but I though that the native ISO for this sensor was multiples of 80? Even still, that is the way I have been trying to set my ISO's with my 5DIII, and with excellent results (at least with regard to iq, and in particular, never seeing this phenomenon). If I am wrong in this assumption, please someone correct me.

The camera is still under warranty, why not send it in and let Canon worry about it?

Scott.

mackguyver said:
Just a wild guess, but it could be your ISO setting. ISO 160 (and the other 1/3 stop ISOs) all push or pull the dynamic range and could be the cause. You definitely have a lot of haze in the photos, too, so it's hard to tell exactly what's happening, but try shooting at ISO 100, 200, 400, etc. to see if that makes any difference.
 
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Okay, now I'm looking at it on my calibrated monitor and sorry to throw out the ISO theory. That said, I'm not sure what the issue is with these photos. They are so distant, shot at such a long focal length, suffering from diffraction at f/16, and there is so much haze, it's hard to imagine they would be in focus with any lens/camera.
To me, the photos look like what I'm describing and I imagine I would get the same results with my 5DII and 5DIII.

As for the ISO, my understanding (and I'm no expert) is that the ISO 160, etc. settings are used for movie shooting, to get the flattest profile. There are sites out there that discuss all this, but it's been years since I've read about them. For stills, I think the 100 multiples are best.
 
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scottkinfw said:
Maybe I misunderstood, but I though that the native ISO for this sensor was multiples of 80?

It doesn't matter what the native iso is, the important thing is that the only unmodified iso values that go through from the sensor are multiples of 100, +-1/3ev (125, 160, ...) are digitally modified losing dynamic range - which is nice for movie & jpeg, but if you shoot raw you can do the same thing by over/underexposing 1/3ev.
 
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Marsu42 said:
scottkinfw said:
Maybe I misunderstood, but I though that the native ISO for this sensor was multiples of 80?

It doesn't matter what the native iso is, the important thing is that the only unmodified iso values that go through from the sensor are multiples of 100, +-1/3ev (125, 160, ...) are digitally modified losing dynamic range - which is nice for movie & jpeg, but if you shoot raw you can do the same thing by over/underexposing 1/3ev.
Here's some more info on this topic:
http://indigoverse.com/the-truth-about-native-iso-for-canon-dslrs/
 
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mackguyver said:
Marsu42 said:
scottkinfw said:
Maybe I misunderstood, but I though that the native ISO for this sensor was multiples of 80?

It doesn't matter what the native iso is, the important thing is that the only unmodified iso values that go through from the sensor are multiples of 100, +-1/3ev (125, 160, ...) are digitally modified losing dynamic range - which is nice for movie & jpeg, but if you shoot raw you can do the same thing by over/underexposing 1/3ev.
Here's some more info on this topic:
http://indigoverse.com/the-truth-about-native-iso-for-canon-dslrs/

Thanks for that link.
 
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Marsu42 said:
scottkinfw said:
Maybe I misunderstood, but I though that the native ISO for this sensor was multiples of 80?

It doesn't matter what the native iso is, the important thing is that the only unmodified iso values that go through from the sensor are multiples of 100, +-1/3ev (125, 160, ...) are digitally modified losing dynamic range - which is nice for movie & jpeg, but if you shoot raw you can do the same thing by over/underexposing 1/3ev.

Are you sure? If '+-1/3ev (125, 160, ...) are digitally modified losing dynamic range' is true, ISO 400 should have more DR than ISO 320, and ISO 800 should have more DR than ISO 640. But according to Bill Claff's measurements of the 7D and 5DIII sensors, ISO 320 and 640 have more DR than their +1/3 EV neighbors.

You're right that 'native' ISO isn't really important, but it seems that from a noise as well as a DR standpoint, you're better off using multiples of ISO 160 than ISO 100 (unless you're using a 1D X, which has smooth noise and DR curves, unlike the jagged ones of other recent Canon sensors).
 
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I took pictures with the 5D Mark III and two years before the 5D Mark II and my final verdict is that the 5D Mark III posterize more fine detail to vibrant colors and lower noise about only a few people I rebut this opinion ... I have tried different settings and I've had enough Canon disappoint me again as well as the recent 70D which has a lot of noise even at the lowest ISO
 
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