BIRD IN FLIGHT ONLY -- share your BIF photos here

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Valvebounce

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Apr 3, 2013
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Hi Eric.
It looks to me like keep doing what you are doing! Some really nice shots there.
With regards to the settings, just practice with the AF system, I seem to recall that you have come from a 6D, quite a basic AF system (I'm not saying it is not effective or efficient) in comparison to the 7DII, there are so many things to change that can effect the outcome of the shot, also get used to using the lever to flick through from spot, single point to wide area etc, it makes it so easy to be in the right AF type.

Cheers, Graham.
 
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Jack Douglas

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Apr 10, 2013
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Hey Eric, not sure if the 7D2 supports this the same as the 1DX2 but if so it's handy. For one custom setting I have shutter, AF-ON and * all programmed for auto focus. This means that there could be a conflict but there isn't since AF-ON and * take priority over shutter button focus. If you're already comfortable with back-button focus this gives (my choice) - shutter, full zone; AF-ON servo spot expansion; *, one-shot single point. If I'm already focusing with the shutter half pressed, as mentioned, the other two will override this instantly.

Jack
 
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Thanks for the advice, Graham and Jack. My biggest concerns are which AF type to use with the AI Servo and also which case to use for BIF. I'm experimenting and starting to get a few more keepers. It's frustrating when you miss a great shot because it's not in focus. I previously was using the Mark 1 of the 7D and 100-400L. I haven't tried back button focus but it sounds like an effective tool so I will explore this also.
A few more recent keepers of my Heron friends:
Juvenile BCN Heron BIF by Eric Johnson, on Flickr
Juvenile BCN Heron BIF by Eric Johnson, on Flickr
Juvenile BCN Heron BIF by Eric Johnson, on Flickr
 
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Valvebounce

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Hi Eric.
From the 7D to the 7DII is not such a leap in AF complexity, (still a pretty huge leap) I use the 3x3 square AF expansion through to the zone AF depending on the size of the target in the viewfinder, if it is really large the large zone or all 65 points can be used to good effect (depending on DOF involved.
You can use the custom modes to set things like which AF cases are available to scroll through, so you could have C1 limit to spot cross and 15 point zone so you only get to scroll through 3 before returning to the start point C2 and C3 can each have different choices, the biggest problem is choosing whether to have a different set of perameters for other things too, i.e. C1 M 1/1000 f5.6, C2 Tv 1/500, C3 Av f8, then how do you choose which AF cases to set to each?
Problems, problems, first world problems! ;D
Have a look at this, http://gdlp01.c-wss.com/gds/7/0300022877/01/EOS_7D_Mark_II_AF-Setting_Guidebook_EN.pdf
Plus I have the Glenn Bartley AF guide book, I figured it worth the few quid to purchase based on his results with this gear posted here!

By the way if you already have the Canon booklet with the pictures spread across two separate pages download it from this link to have the pictures on one page, view the complete picture rather than having to flick between two pages to view them.

Cheers, Graham.

serendipidy said:
Thanks for the advice, Graham and Jack. My biggest concerns are which AF type to use with the AI Servo and also which case to use for BIF. I'm experimenting and starting to get a few more keepers. It's frustrating when you miss a great shot because it's not in focus. I previously was using the Mark 1 of the 7D and 100-400L. I haven't tried back button focus but it sounds like an effective tool so I will explore this also.
A few more recent keepers of my Heron friends:
 
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Hi Eric,
It took me a couple of thousand shots before I started getting the results with my 7D II and 400 f/5.6. Until you get proficient with the AF controls on the back of the camera, just use all the 65 focus points. Tow things I found to be important for BIF.

1) When the subject enters the viewing area, pump the shutter release button half way a couple of times to be sure that the subject is in sharp focus. Then you can fully depress the shutter release button fully when ready.

2) Be sure to keep the shutter speed high so that wing movement, etc. is not blurry. I found that a shutter speed greater than 1/2000 to work best for me.

After that you can experiment with all the AF settings to see what works best for you.

Great pictures, by the way.

Merry Christmas.
 
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Ryananthony said:
Serendipidy,

That second shot is fantastic. Sometimes accidents turn out for the good!

Thanks. He had just caught this big fish and as I approached him, I got a little too close and he took off. My camera was in Av mode and spot focus and spot metering. Not set up for BIF. I was very surprised when I downloaded the file to DPP. I like it too...looks almost like a ghost bird.
 
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serendipidy said:
Thanks for the advice, Graham and Jack. My biggest concerns are which AF type to use with the AI Servo and also which case to use for BIF. I'm experimenting and starting to get a few more keepers. It's frustrating when you miss a great shot because it's not in focus. I previously was using the Mark 1 of the 7D and 100-400L. I haven't tried back button focus but it sounds like an effective tool so I will explore this also.

You've got some pretty cool shots there, Eric. Your focusing and tracking technique looks pretty good.
I have that same lens combination and there are an awful lot of things to change on the 7D2 that you can end up confusing yourself.
My feeling is that the different cases are about refining skills you already have so I have set mine to case 5 (erratic movements) and experiment, and when I have enough experience to work out what effect different cases have I will see if they are better for different circumstances: for example in reed beds does changing to a different case increase keeper rate when they fly behind grasses etc. You will never know this if you keep chopping and changing.

I have set my C1 for birds in flight with 1-point plus 8-point expansion, Av mode with minimum 1/1000 sec shutter speed and Case 5. When I set the aperture I want the camera then sets the lowest ISO and allows the shutter speed to drop until it hits 1/1000 then starts increasing ISO as needed- then when it hits the maximum ISO (mine is set to 6400) it then starts lowering shutter speed again. I can still set exposure compensation with the rear wheel. And if I think I need 1/2000 or 1/4000 to freeze wing motion I set the minimum shutter speed accordingly.

I am experimenting with manual and auto-ISO, which isn't really full manual because you set aperture and shutter speed and the camera selects ISO to give an 'ideal' exposure but it does give you more control and you can still apply exposure compensation.
I turn off all things like iTR and highlight controls because they all take processing power and risk lowering the AF responsiveness and/or shot rate.

Grant Atkinson (also a contributor here) has done a useful set of 5 videos on the 7D2.
 
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