Bought the 300mm 2.8 ii and think its huge

[Jack Douglas]

Here's a butterfly 300 X2, again 100%crop. If you love nature like I do you can't help but love this lens.

Jack

 

[eml58]

Nice Jack, and a perfect example of what this Lens can do outside the ordinary, which I think is what the Op was looking for.

This Lens is just about perfect, it's in the Bag on almost any trip I do, it's sharp as a razor, works beautifully on it's own, with a 1.4x III and even a 2x III, the weight in Version II is completely hand holdable, I rarely use this Lens on a monopod or a Tripod.

 

[Northstar]

I shoot indoor sports frequently, mostly using my 70/200 and 24-70 with a 1dx...My 300 2.8 is rarely used for indoor stuff.

With that said, If I didn't own a 1dx or a 300 2.8, (your previous situation) and I was looking to upgrade my gear, I would definitely choose to spend the $7000 on the 1dx versus a 3002.8ii.

If you had said I'm going to be shooting field sports, then yes, the 300 with your 5d3 would probably get you more bang for your buck.

Return the 300, buy a 1dx, sell a 5d3 and use the money saved for another lens.

 

[Canon1]

Of course, I've been using a 600/4L IS II for 1.5 years now.

I used to shoot with a 600mm NON IS. I practically needed a Sherpa to get it to location...

 

[scottkinfw]

That is an option, and if you can go without is, the 400 5.6L is an excellent lens that is very light and small, and gives an extra 100mm of reach. I love mine. Way cheaper too.

sek

Are you a professional sports photographer? Otherwise, I think if you don't know what to do with the lens, you probably made a mistake spending that much money on it.

No but i have been doing indoor high school sports and getting into wildlife. Thought I would try is it aince my 70-200 makes me crop too much. I bought it for that purpose but just trying to justify if its worth it or if I should get the 300mm f4 which is cheaper.

 

[scottkinfw]

Another thing that is very very nice about this lens when shooting wide is the bokeh. Very special.

sek

Well, I use my 300 for my primary wildlife lens. With a 2x TC, its a hand holdable 600mm 5.6 with a very short minimum focus distance so its great for photos of small passerines, shorebirds or shooting from a hide. It's easy enough to hike with once you get used to it especially with a nice black rapid style strap. I've also used it for field sports with and without the 1.4x TC. Its good for tight portraiture, especially for indoor sports where you will definitely need the wide aperture.

There's plenty of good uses for the lens if you shoot the style of photography it calls for. Mine is the ancient non-IS version and I would instantly trade up for the vII if I could afford it. I bought the sigmonster because I got a crazy good deal on it and it will come in very handy for when I'm distance limited like, say, shooting waterfowl or in a restricted habitat but I will almost certainly continue to use the 300 primarily. It is just too good and too useful for wildlife and sports. I'd say keep it around for a bit and see if you use it. You can't really lose too much money if you find yourself selling it on later and you'll never be hard pressed to find a buyer. I'd guess that if you have any interest in wildlife or sports photography, you won't ever want to get rid of it.

Thanks for the type of answer I was looking for. I PP a few BIF and was amazed at how sharp this lens is. I think I am going to use it for a few more weeks then make a decision from there.

 

[applecider]

Steve don't want to get off topic but if you have the sigmonster would you please start a thread and post some images taken with it and with the teleconverter.

With regards the Op...
The 300 will grow on you and it is really a 420 f4.0 with a 1.4 tele, and way smaller and easier to control than the 400mm f2.8 i or ii.

 

[yorgasor]

I'm dreaming of the day I might one day obtain this lens. To tide me over, I picked up a 30 yr old Nikon 300mm f/2.8 AIS lens. It's about the same size and weight of the Canon, and I thought it was massive and heavy at first too. Now I can't imagine going somewhere without it. Many of my favorite shots are now taken with this, and I find myself looking for excuses to take it out. I expect that once you get used to the lens, take it out, kick the tires for a bit, and test it in various scenarios, you'll discover the same thing.

For my lens, it's harder to get the focusing just right, real tough to get shots of action (this was the olden day's sports lens!) but when I land the shot, I'm happier with the results of this lens than my others. In your case, the AF and IS will make it much easier to get good results using the lens handheld.

For the focal length, it's great fun to just sit back on the far side of my yard and unobtrusively get shots of my kids playing around. Sometimes I'll throw on the 1.4x converter, and the kids will hardly notice I'm there. Here's a few of my favorites:

Hard Labor by yorgasor, on Flickr

Abby Rope 2 by yorgasor, on Flickr

Skating Fiend by yorgasor, on Flickr

 

[Jack Douglas]

Right on yorgasor.

This morning, 300 X2. Who says blonds have more fun!

Jack

 

[Viggo]

I used to own the 300 f2.8, and found that it wasn't the weight and size, but the FL that made it stay at home most of the time. I switched to the 200 f2.0 which weighs about the same as a 300 mk1, and I use it very often, absolutely love it.

I tried the usual neck straps for carrying and found them to be completely hopeless, my neck was gone in 15 minutes. Bought a Black rapid and now it's just a joy to bring, it could have been lighter, but when you see the images it's just so worth it..

 

[Maiaibing]

I felt uncomfortable for the first time ever with this lens. Its awesome fast and sharp but wonder if the limited use will be worth tying up $7300. Any uses that would be helpful to try.

First - if you do not have one already - get a shoulder strap like the black rapid or equivalent which will make you feel much more mobile. Second, consider getting a monopod. Just to save you some weight compared to hand-holding it. I normally do not use any support, but after a skiing accident this Winter, I sometimes bring a tripod just to avoid over-exerting my still-healing arm.

For uses let me suggest:

- Wildlife - which surely is a reason people get this lens. Its far easier to lug around than the 400mm f/2.8 and takes a 1.4x really well. Go to the zoo and check it out one day!
- Its a sure hit for outdoor sports. Especially for action shots where people are moving towards/away from you. And your lens even has a special IS setting for these kinds of shots that works very well. I have taken lots of middle- and high school sports shots with a 300mm f/2.8.
- I use this lens primarily for street pictures. Not a lot of people do because its large, but to me the blur effect when shooting 300mm @ f/2.8 is just great to take away the often confusion and colourful city backdrops. Maybe a niche for you too?
- Shots covering different heights (hills, waves, rolling streets, stairs etc.) often benefit from the added compression effect of a semi-long lens.
- Water sports (at sea/ocean) is another perfect use; sailing, surfing etc. Reach is king here.
- If you are into details and abstracts you can use the ultra slim DOF and fairly long reach to take shots that others simply cannot- at least not with their iphones(!)
- Finally, take it to events such as music, open air shows etc. many people will actually give way to you and your lens as they ascertain you are shooting for a living and need the space (I don't misuse this myself, but the effect is clearly there). On the downside I understand that some events may not let you in with a big white because its a "pro" lens.

Hope you end up using it. The one thing you do not want is to have it lying around - in stead make someone else very happy with a (slightly) discounted private sale.

Happy shooting!

 

[Steve]

Steve don't want to get off topic but if you have the sigmonster would you please start a thread and post some images taken with it and with the teleconverter.

I actually did! I started it hoping to get some opinions before I bought it but ended up getting it before anyone replied. I haven't had a chance to really do anything with it (I haven't even properly MFA'd it yet) because of work, school and weather but I'm hoping to get at it later this week. I'll post samples in that thread when I can.

- Finally, take it to events such as music, open air shows etc. many people will actually give way to you and your lens as they ascertain you are shooting for a living and need the space (I don't misuse this myself, but the effect is clearly there).

This is a pretty cool effect. I've had people hand me press releases and ask me if I want to shoot from the stage at rallies and events that I just showed up at as a spectator. Its also really really really awesome when literally every single person you see when you are hiking wants to tell you about the great blue heron they saw or makes some joke about taking pictures of hummingbirds in orbit or whatever. I can't even imagine how it is for you guys with the 600's. I guess I'll find out with that Siggy!

 

[curtisnull]

Another thing that is very very nice about this lens when shooting wide is the bokeh. Very special.

+1 ...... Love the bokeh on this lens. It seems strange, but I often use this lens for a portrait lens for close up work.

 

[Dylan777]

+1...the 300mm f2.8 IS II & 400mm IS II are more likely be used for sport, however, I agree with Scott. Both lenses are quite amazing to shoot portrait - even a simple flower shot below

Another thing that is very very nice about this lens when shooting wide is the bokeh. Very special.

+1 ...... Love the bokeh on this lens. It seems strange, but I often use this lens for a portrait lens for close up work.

 

[yorgasor]

I felt uncomfortable for the first time ever with this lens. Its awesome fast and sharp but wonder if the limited use will be worth tying up $7300. Any uses that would be helpful to try.

For uses let me suggest:

...
- Shots covering different heights (hills, waves, rolling streets, stairs etc.) often benefit from the added compression effect of a semi-long lens.
...
Happy shooting!

I _love_ this effect! I'm still trying to sneak over to a golf course to get a shot of the smooth, green rolling mounds on the course with my 300mm. In the meantime, I got this shot of the spring blossoms on trees around the corner from my house:

Blossoms By The Road 2 by yorgasor, on Flickr

 

[Maiaibing]

It seems strange, but I often use this lens for a portrait lens for close up work.

I don't think its strange at all. Lots of people use a 70-200mm on an APS for portraits (~280mm). Its only slightly unwieldy to wag around when directing your model(s) and the distance can also be an issue if they can't hear you over the ambient sound (i don't recommend shouting!).

 

[mackguyver]

It seems strange, but I often use this lens for a portrait lens for close up work.

I don't think its strange at all. Lots of people use a 70-200mm on an APS for portraits (~280mm). Its only slightly unwieldy to wag around when directing your model(s) and the distance can also be an issue if they can't hear you over the ambient sound (i don't recommend shouting!).

200mm on a crop is actually 320mm equivalent , but that's a good point you're making. I've used my 300mm a fair amount for portraits and while I still prefer the 85L, it has a really nice look to it and blurs out the background even better due to the magnification.

For me, the real versatility of the 300mm is in using extenders and the 25mm extension tube. Those turn it into an excellent 420mm f/4, a very good 600mm f/5.6, and a unique 0.28x close-up lens. For me, that allows many uses:

1. Large animal wildlife / indoor or sidelines sports lens - 300mm
2. Close smaller wildlife lens / bigger field sports - 420mm
3. Distant animal / decent birding lens - 600mm
4. Landscape lens to compress the view - any of the focal lengths
5. Portrait lens - 300mm
6. With 25mm extension tube - great flower lens to add a colorful blur behind the subject

All of these can be done handheld (though #6 is best on tripod) - easily up to 3 stops slower, and up to 4.5 stops slower.

I also like to take it out and shoot wildlife at 300 f/2.8 about 20-30 minutes before sunrise and then add the 1.4x as the sun comes up and then maybe the 2x as needed and light permitting. With slower lenses and pre-5DIII/1D X/6D, shooting (moving) wildlife before sunrise was just a dream. The the 400 f/5.6 (my last super-tele) or the f/4(.5)-5.6 zooms, you'll need 4x more light and thus 2 stops more ISO to get the same shutter speed. For me, shooting wildlife in the blue hour is the very best thing about the 300 II and the #1 reason I love it. The other uses and ability to take extenders just make it all the better.

 

[adhocphotographer]

I would love this lens!!!! Though it is a big investment, and from what i hear, a gateway lens for it's bigger brothers!

 

[kaihp]

It was a wee bit too long for the distance (the guy next to me shot with a 200/2L), but I think the focal length turned out very well: full body at the start of the catwalk, turning to half-profile size at the end of the catwalk.

Now, the only problem left is the idiot operating the buttons and setting cannot seem to find good AF settings that give consistent focus every shot (this must be the photographers version of "a classic case of PEBKAC").

5D3, 300mm f/2.8L II, ISO 400, 1/400sec, f/2.8 (un-cropped).

 

[privatebydesign]

For the first shot, full length with the model walking, I'd use a pre chosen single point in Servo, just select the top middle point (or the next one around the edge if possible) and crop slightly to give better framing in post, often you can batch process the crop too. For the turn and half-profile shot the same AF setting will work, but I might be tempted, because I am a One Shot AF fan, to toggle to One Shot, you can program the four black buttons on the lens to do this.

Just don't get mixed up with trying to move focus points, the models move fast and if you lose one you won't have time for the AF to regain them and get your shot, choose one and stick with it. If you look at almost any runway series from any shooter they will all be shot with the same framing and point of focus. This not only makes it easier for the photographer but it gives viewers a much clearer comparison of the look the designers have created. If the publisher wants something more dynamic then the designers can crop and rotate etc to give that look.