Chromatic abberation problem Tokina 12-24mm on Eos 60D & 7D

[xps]

I need some help, please:

I bought a new Tokina 12-24mm lens for my Eos 60D.
The lens is sharp, there is nearly no vignetting, BUT there is a lot of Chromatic abberation, heavy chromatic abberation, at 15mm to 12mm. red and blue lines on the end of the edges.
Does anybody have the same problem?
What can I do? The lens has the problem @ an aperture of 4 to 22, @ 4.0 it is really heavy.

How can I correct the CAs? Is there any possibility to do so automatically (Canon DPP lens recipie), or do I have to correct it manually?
The same problem at my wife´s 7D.

Much thanks

 

[Kernuak]

CA tends to be the weakness of Tokina lenses, although I didn't know about this one specifically. Looking at the Photoezone review, it is quite severe.

http://www.photozone.de/canon-eos/272-tokina-af-12-24mm-f4-at-x-pro-dx-canon-lens-test-report--review?start=1

I haven't used the later versions of DPP, with the lens corrections, as I use Lightroom. One of the reasons I originally got LR, was because of all the software I tried, it was the only one that fixed the worst of the CA (wideangles generally have issues with CA to a greater or lesser degree). DPP will only have data for Canon lenses though, whereas, even if LR doesn't have a profile, you can correctt it manually.

 

[paul13walnut5]

I occassionally have similar problems on my 11-16. PS or DPP are the way. I fix on a shot to shot basis, as the problem differs with subject and aperture.

 

[xps]

That´s not good. I don´t like to correct CA manually. In the last two days I took over 800 shots at hiking in the Alps.
I read a test in an European Magazine (Color Foto), where this lens got an recommendation.

Ok, the CAs are to high. I tried to correct them manually at some shots with DPP.
I´ll return the lens to the shop.

Can you give me some Advice which one to buy? Canon 10-20 or The Sigma 10-20??

 

[paul13walnut5]

Never used the 10-22, liked the Sigma 10-20 (I had the 4-5.6 version) but felt that even my 400D which I used at the time was stretching the resolving power. A nice wide compact lens. I now use the Tokina 11-16 (having came via a Sigma 12-24 which didn't have chromatic aberrations but then couldn't be filtered either..) mainly for the fast aperture and improved resolution.

 

[Kernuak]

That´s not good. I don´t like to correct CA manually. In the last two days I took over 800 shots at hiking in the Alps.
I read a test in an European Magazine (Color Foto), where this lens got an recommendation.

Ok, the CAs are to high. I tried to correct them manually at some shots with DPP.
I´ll return the lens to the shop.

Can you give me some Advice which one to buy? Canon 10-20 or The Sigma 10-20??

With Lightroom, the problem is fixed with sliders and is a 20 second job most of the time. There are tutorials online to do it it manually in Photoshop, but it seemed like too much hard work sat in front of the computer to me.

 

[Mt Spokane Photography]

That´s not good. I don´t like to correct CA manually. In the last two days I took over 800 shots at hiking in the Alps.
I read a test in an European Magazine (Color Foto), where this lens got an recommendation.

Ok, the CAs are to high. I tried to correct them manually at some shots with DPP.
I´ll return the lens to the shop.

Can you give me some Advice which one to buy? Canon 10-20 or The Sigma 10-20??

All wide aperture lenses have CA's, some are worse, but you can not avoid them. As noted, you can set lightroom to automatically eliminate them as your image is imported, so you do not have to worry about them. Lens distortions can also be corrected, at least the easy ones.

There are so many more important factors in rating a lens than CA, it will not bring a rating down, its just a normal thing.

 

[well_dunno]

I used to have Tokina 12-24 and was happy with it. CA was a pronounced issue with the lens but unless it was really contrasty situations, it did not bother me.

With regards to canon vs sigma, I would go with canon unless an FF camera is on the horizon. If I am not mistaken, sigma is compatible with FF whereas canon is an aps-c lens.

Kernuak - I'm visiting Tromso and will post some polar summer images when back..

Cheers!

 

[DianeK]

I have the Canon 10-22 and really like it. I chose it over the Tokina 11-16 because of chromatic aberration. The Canon also has some CA but not near as pronounced as the Tokina. Lightroom completely removes any CA of the Canon lens by just enabling the lens profile whereas I had to do it manually for the Tokina because LR doesn't have a lens profile for the Tokina and I found I could never completely remove its CA manually.
Diane

 

[Kernuak]

Kernuak - I'm visiting Tromso and will post some polar summer images when back..

Cheers!

I'll look forward to them. I'd like to go back at some point, but I'll probably go further east into Finland or Sweden for the Northern Lights, where the weather is a bit more predictable. I thnk spring might be a good time for the Troms region, before the midges start.

 

[K3nt]

The good thing about CA (if there is such a thing as good news) is that if you shoot a lot of shots at the same aperture, the amount of CA is probably consistent through all the shots.
What I do is I correct one shot in Aperture 3, and the I lift that adjustment and stamp it on to the others. Now I have all the shots corrected in one go. (I do tend to review some of them just to make sure).

 

[HarryWintergreen]

Same goes for the Tokina 11-16 f/2.8 which basically is a great lens. To me the amount of chromatic abberation is too much. So, you have to prevent shooting under conditions with harsh transitions of contrast. DxO has included camera-lens combinations entailing the Tokina lens. Don't know if and how good this works.

 

[samkatz]

CA is my #1 thing to avoid because I find that it's not always very easy to take out in ACR. I've tried automatic, manual settings and there's a lot of fiddling around.

That being said, I chose the Canon 10-22 for my widest lens and have not had any problems with it.

My worst lenses were the 17-85 IS USM which i got rid of for the 15-85 IS USM (despite reports in the reviews, I haven't had CA). My Tamron 70-300 VC is very sharp for the price, but don't shoot bare tree branches against a bright sky.....