ColorChecker passport, what's wrong?

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ankorwatt said:
What do you mean, Pro Photo can reproduce all colors without clipping and you can then proof in ProPhoto color space into a smaller profile/color space as Adobe RGB and then convert to Adobe RGB with good results

Eh, no. Not even vaguely close.

Look at either a CIE chromaticity diagram of ProPhoto -- or, better, a 3-D gamut plot that includes the spectrum locus. Huge swaths of color lie outside of ProPhoto's space...and, worse, ProPhoto's space encompasses huge swaths of imaginary space, colors that simply don't exist.

If you want a much more useful working space, try BetaRGB. No imaginary colors, encompasses all of AdobeRGB, encompasses most of all real-world output devices (which AdobeRGB doesn't), and otherwise very intelligently designed.

Cheers,

b&
 
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ankorwatt said:
The Swedish Photographer ASSOCIATION did a test of different reference card and software, best was QP-Card
http://www.sfoto.se/teknik/farghantering-kalibrering-och-utskrifter/kalibrera-din-kamera

Translated text: http://translate.google.se/translate?sl=sv&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&eotf=1&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sfoto.se%2Fteknik%2Ffarghantering-kalibrering-och-utskrifter%2Fkalibrera-din-kamera&act=url&act=url

One of my pictures from S.Afrika, Cape TOWN illustrate in this test difficulties with strong red colors and different cameras CFA + profiles.

Var interessant det der. Jeg som egentlig har trodd at de ColorChecker'ene har vært så og si identiske og at de har fungert helt riktig. Jeg var veldig fornøyd med den til 5d2, men når jeg prøvde idag gir den lignende resultater som 1dx. MEN hvitbalansen jeg har satt med det innebygde gråkortet er helt forskjellig på 5d2 og 1dx, har inte nån förklarning väl?
 
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ankorwatt said:
you have many remarkable statements , and what do you know about the color fields in qp-card and how they are produced? http://www.qpcard.com/en_b2c/colors-on-card . http://www.qpcard.com/en_b2c/dcp_icc_profile In reality Profoto handle all colors and nuances except some cyans in mathematic model and who have no interest .

What do I know about color? Not much, granted -- especially in comparison with true digital color scientists such as Graeme Gill and Bruce Lindbloom. But I know a hell of a lot more than whoever wrote that page you link to, which has real doozies like this on it:

Manual white balancing, using a neutral gray target in the scene, is the best way to achieve neutral grays in the picture. However, it doesn't matter if the gray target is manufactured by Kodak, Datacolor, X-rite or QPcard; the end result is the same.

First, using a chart with a single gray patch on it to achieve gray balance is, by definition, the worst possible empirical method for the task. A chart with two gray patches is much superior, and a full-sized color chart is ideal.

Second, the notion that the manufacturer doesn't matter and that all produce the same results is ludicrous. If you are going to use the click method, the uniformity of the spectral reflectivity of the target is paramount, and none of the targets on the market are as spectrally uniform as even a styrofoam coffee cup. (Well, with one notable exception: anything from LabSphere made of Spectralon. But those targets cost as much as an L lens.) I know -- I've got many of them and I've measured many of the rest with a spectrophotometer. I've actually got a can of paint from Home Depot that's much better than average, thanks to a helpful response to a query I made to their technical support group.

Anyway, that's just the easy and trivially obvious misinformation on that page. They also suffer from misconceptions such as this:

The color samples are divided into four groups. The primary groups have 9 saturated samples of red, green and blue picked to accurately determine the spectral midpoints of the on-sensor filters.

It's a nice-sounding idea, but completely worthless. Neither ICC nor DNG profiles give a damn what the spectral midpoints of the filters are. If you had a complete map of the complete spectral sensitivity of each filter, you could probably generate a model of the camera's response well enough to create not-bad profiles from that information...but you'd need not just the spectral midpoint but enough other points on the curve to plot the entire thing. The green-filtered photosites are sensitive to red and to blue light, but not very sensitive. Knowing how sensitive they actually are would be essential to the type of modeling they're trying to make you think they're performing (and that perhaps they themselves even think they're performing), but you're not going to get that in any useful form from photographing the chart they're selling.

At best, they're well-intentioned but not very clueful. Maybe they're trying to reinvent the wheel without bothering with learning the fundamentals. Or maybe whoever is writing their marketing materials is clueless. Or maybe they're just blowing smoke up everybody's asses with technical-sounding bafflegab and a run-of-the-mill product.

Regardless, you've fell for their hype, hook, line, and sinker.

Considering that your knowledge of color science is so limited that you aren't aware of all the quantization and color shift and other problems associated with ProPhoto, it's not surprising that you'd be taken in by that kind of salesmanship. Color science is a deep and obscure field, and it's easy to get confused, which makes it even easier for people to intentionally or unknowingly confuse others, including for personal monetary gain.

But QPcard truly is, at best, a run-of-the-mill product. That the hype surrounding it makes it seem like the greatest thing since sliced bred when it truly isn't is enough reason to not give them any financial support by buying their products, even if they're truly sincere about the hype.

If you want a better color target than any you can buy today, it's not hard. Start with a classic ColorChecker; take it to your local paint store and have them match each of the colors. You might need to go to the newest paint store in town, as some of the colors are too saturated for those with older formulations to match. But the matches will be good spectral matches within the observed variation of the official targets over the years.

Next, go to your local art store and get a sample sheet / book / whatever of artist's paints. Golden Fluid Acrylics works well for this purpose, but they're hardly the only ones. Measure the samples with your spectrophotometer and pick a dozen or so samples with a representative mix of spectra. Buy those paints as well as a bit of white.

Now lay out your chart in Photoshop. You'll want the ColorChecker somewhere in the middle. You'll want each of your artist's paints in a few shades (mixed with white). You'll also want a number of patches that you'll print, including a dozen or so neutral patches as well as at least a hundred, preferably twice or more, patches distributed uniformly throughout perceptual space -- and, obviously, you'll need to have a good profile of the printer and paper you'll be using to generate that patch set. For bonus points, include a bit of PTFE thread tape for your whitest patch, a black trap (make the target a hollow black-lined box with a patch-sized hole for your darkest patch), and samples of real-world objects you'll care about (such as wood chips).

Print the target, paint in all the paints you've assembled, let it dry a day or three, measure the patches with your spectrophotometer, and build your profiles.

If your paint store will sell you pint-sized samples and if you're friendly with an artist who'll let you use her paints, you can build for yourself a color chart that puts everything on the market to shame for not much more than that QPcard will cost you...plus, of course, a significant investment in your own time....

Cheers,

b&
 
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ankorwatt said:
trumpet Power, as usual you mix many things, and why are you writing so long text, no one can follow you, that the people behind qp-card dont know what they are doing, well that is sure a statement from your side.

who are you?

<sigh />

So sorry for confusing you with things like facts and details.

Let's try something simple.

That page you linked to has reference files for the QPcard.

Robin Myers did a superlative review of the ColorChecker Passport that you can read here:

http://www.rmimaging.com/information/ColorChecker_Passport_Technical_Report.pdf

He includes even more information about the Passport in his review than QPcard does on their Web page.

Compare the D50 Lab values for the two. Which chart has the most saturated colors?

Here -- I'll make it even easier for you.

The lower left patch on the QP203 is a saturated yellow. According to their reference file, it's L*=86.1, a*=5.2, b*=80.7. The ColorChecker Passport includes a similar yellow, third from the bottom on the leftmost column. According to Robin Myers (whose numbers very closely match my own measurements), it's D50 L*=87.02, A*=3.38, b*=86.80.

Which of those two colors is a more saturated, more pure yellow? Which is farthest from the neutral axis and closest to the spectrum locus?

That isn't a difficult or confusing or advanced or misleading or tricky question. It's not that different from asking which lens is faster or has the most reach.

If you know enough about color to answer those questions, we might be able to have a productive discussion. If not, kindly stop pretending you know so much about color -- and please stop pretending you know enough about color to evaluate the claims of the QPcard marketing department.

Cheers,

b&
 
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Skulker

PP is no vice and as shot is no virtue
Aug 1, 2012
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Viggo - I'm not sure it's very helpful but I use the color checker passport to get profiles for my 1dx and5d3. After carefully following the instructions lr4 produced some quite effective profiles for me. Certainly they are much better than the standard ones in lr or the "camera" options in lr. They aren't perfect, my red is oversaturated and I normally end up pulling it back a bit. But I have a good starting point if not a perfect one.

I paid close attention to getting the white balance right and the exposure. I seem to remember checking the exposure values of the whites and the color balance was specified in the instruction as needing to be within 1 percent.

Good luck hope it works out for you.
 
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ankorwatt said:
passport has higher saturated yellow color

Congratulations! That's the correct answer.

It's also, incidentally, the answer for the rest of the saturated patches as well.

and it has no meaning in terms of measurement

BZZZZT! Worng answer. Very, very, very, very worng answer.

Profiling is all about sampling the color space. The larger the sample space, the more sample points, and the greater the density around critical areas, the more the model can know about the behavior of the device. The more saturated the colors in the target (for those colors at the edge of the sample space), the larger the sample space and the less extrapolation the model needs to predict the response of even more saturated colors. Colors within the volume encompassed by the ColorChecker will be pretty accurately known but will have to be guessed at through extrapolation if you use the QPcard.

Indeed, there are people who are getting superlative profiling results using a tunable monochromatic light source and no lens -- and, obviously, not using traditional targets! (And, since I have no doubt but that you have no clue what that sentence means, it means that they're generating perfectly pure, perfectly saturated colors using some very expensive equipment and photographing the colors the instrument generates one at a time and building the profile from measurements of all the images of all the different purely saturated colors the instrument can produce.)

have you tried if you get better accuracy with passport than with two yellow hues in op-card?

Why would I waste money on such a clearly inferior product sold by people whose marketing departments (and probably engineers) are clueless about color science?

ps Lindbloom knows what this means, less metamerism errors

Thank you for demonstrating that you have no clue what "metamerism" means and its application to color profiling.

The only way that you could generically deal with metameric mismatches would be if you were capturing complete spectral information -- ideally of the metamers themselves, though you could fake it pretty well with a camera and a spectrometric recording of the illuminant.

Which is why it's not even pretended to be dealt with in ICC profiling. Instead, you just build a profile with an image of the target taken in the same illumination as you're shooting in. If the camera is reasonably close to satisfying the Luther Condition -- and all modern cameras are, though none (of course!) is perfect -- and your target is good enough (and neither the QPcard nor the Passport have nearly enough patches to really do this right, though the Passport is significantly better while still being inadequate) then the profiled image the camera makes will match the appearance of the metamer in that scene.

Can you then transform that image to simulate different viewing conditions? Of course not! Not without complete spectral readings and some very sophisticated math. There are folks at the Smithsonian who could do it, but not very many others.

However, with a well-profiled image, you can then make a print that, when viewed in standard conditions will match what the original scene looked like. And, if you can get a spectral reading of the original scene, you can make another, different print that will match the original scene when viewed in those conditions. But -- again of course -- since no printer uses (significantly) metameric inks (for very good reason!), you're obviously not going to get a single print that would match the original objet in any lighting.

Really, why it should even occur to you to bring metamerism into this is beyond me. Or did you just latch onto the first strange-sounding word you came across in a random Google search and hoped it'd somehow confound me and get me to stop pointing out your ignorance?

Cheers,

b&
 
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ankorwatt said:
Congratulations! That's the correct answer. Who are you? start to study the subject then you understand why 2 different yellow hue is better than one, the time is now 00:59 and we can discuss this subject as much you want. keep your messages short and concise.
and and stop being rude to people who have knowledge and requires three sentences instead of a bunch of bladder bludder
Talk to Lindbloom as you referar to and you understand why there will be less errors

nighty nighty and cheers

Mikael, you are so hopeless I wonder why I bother.

First, you demonstrate the most appalling ignorance and incompetence. Then, when I and others correct the misinformation you spew, you never actually attempt to address any of the points I or anybody else makes, and instead you keep beating your same old tired Nikon DR / DxO / QPcard drums, always without content with any more depth than "two stops more physics better."

Who I am is utterly meaningless. Address my facts or not at all.

You'll notice that I'm not similarly challenging you, Mikael, to provide your own bona fides. Even if you've got a PhD in DxO, who you are is meaningless. It's your ideas that matter here, and your ideas suck almost as much as they're incoherent.

I've repeatedly explained in great detail why the gamut of the target is so important, even going so far as to include an example of somebody who uses a virtual target with the largest theoretically possible gamut. That you're suggesting that I haven't explained the importance of target gamut size -- that you're probably still not aware as you read these words that I just explained the importance of the choice of the yellow patches in question -- just goes to show that you're so far out of your league that you're the poster child for the Dunning-Kruger effect.

Really, this is every bit as bad as your attempts to "compare" dynamic range with an architectural shot completely devoid of detail because it was grossly unfocussed and shot at f/1.4, presumably hand-held. I keep trying to bring you up to speed on the most basic of matters, things that you absolutely must know to even be able to understand the discussion -- let alone contribute to it -- and all you can do is whine that I'm trying to tell you too much about things you don't understand.

I'm sure I've told you before about the First Rule of Holes. Your reputation here really couldn't possibly get worse, so even it might no longer apply...but, really. You're in the deepest hole I've ever seen an Internet troll work himself into, and yet you still keep digging as fast and furiously as you possibly can. Do you really think you're going to escape to China that way or something equally bizarre?

Cheers,

b&
 
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Skulker said:
Viggo - I'm not sure it's very helpful but I use the color checker passport to get profiles for my 1dx and5d3. After carefully following the instructions lr4 produced some quite effective profiles for me. Certainly they are much better than the standard ones in lr or the "camera" options in lr. They aren't perfect, my red is oversaturated and I normally end up pulling it back a bit. But I have a good starting point if not a perfect one.

I paid close attention to getting the white balance right and the exposure. I seem to remember checking the exposure values of the whites and the color balance was specified in the instruction as needing to be within 1 percent.

Good luck hope it works out for you.

I think I must just suck it up and agree that I can't use it as a quick fix, but use it as a great starting point. If I just come to terms with that, and that is a lot easier now that I've read what TrumpetPower have written about the subject. It's not THAT much more work to post-tune the colors when the CC have made them, to me at least, way better.
 
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Btw, I have worked out a way to get the colors I want, and that looks very much like reality.

1. DO NOT sample the "right" WB. Use LV and set your Kelvin number so that the wb looks the way you want, and I choose a wb as close to reality as I can. For example if I shoot under a warm indoor light, I set a wb to keep that mood, instead of turning the white white.

2. I then shoot the CC with my set wb, and I also use that wb for every shot after that (of course)

3. I export with CC passport and make the profile, finetune the WB and then check the colors, if anything looks to saturated etc, I finetune them also to make it look "right".

4. When the fine tuning is done, I make a preset with the "right" wb, colorprofile and name it after the wb.

That way the next time I shoot under similar conditions I can add the preset and do nothing more.
 
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Viggo said:
I'm trying to find the Camera Calibration-profiles on my Mac with Mountain Lion OS. X-rite provides a path to the folder, but they aren't there, I enabled "Show hidden files" also, but they are no where to be found. Anybody who knows here?

They can be in either the main computer Library/Application Support/Adobe/CameraRaw/Camera Profiles/... the next folder is different with different LR versions, they are all either there, or in the sub folder .../Camera/ then a specific camera folder; OR, User/Library/Application Support/Adobe/CameraRaw/Camera Profiles/... and the same differences.
 
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privatebydesign said:
Viggo said:
I'm trying to find the Camera Calibration-profiles on my Mac with Mountain Lion OS. X-rite provides a path to the folder, but they aren't there, I enabled "Show hidden files" also, but they are no where to be found. Anybody who knows here?

They can be in either the main computer Library/Application Support/Adobe/CameraRaw/Camera Profiles/... the next folder is different with different LR versions, they are all either there, or in the sub folder .../Camera/ then a specific camera folder; OR, User/Library/Application Support/Adobe/CameraRaw/Camera Profiles/... and the same differences.

Thanks! I was thrown off by the "Library" in USER was greyed out and couldn't be opened, but by right-cliking and choose open I found it AND I found the profile, Thanks again, you saved my day!
 
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ankorwatt said:
I have tested all reference card and software solutions,and I can tell you people that qp-card with their software solution and new smaller color card are fast and better than any other reference card and software solution on the market today to create a own color profile to your camera in different light. And the same result has the tester at the Swedish photographer covenant concluded in their test.

Do you have link to where I can get one? I like to try everything :eek:P
 
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I actually bought the QP-card, but cancelled my order when I learned it's a piece of cardboard that comes already scratched and splattered ink and poorly glued together. I love the Passport as it is rugged and can take being used extensively and always be in my bag.

Another reason I decided to stick with the CC is that I learned that the best results isn't by using the X-rite software, but Adobe Profile Editor. And after a small amount of testing today I absolutely agree! All the things I didn't like with X-rite's results, to saturated colors, blues too blue and often off reds, is not the case with Adobe PE. It gives by far the most natural accurate results from everything I tried.

Can't wait to try outside tomorrow in different light!
 
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