First time in a studio, please help me learn from my mistake

[neuroanatomist]

What iso were you on? If it was 100 that might be the problem. At f/8 those light are really working, so they stay on longer and you might get motion that way. If youre at iso 200 they are open half as long, iso 400 a quarter as long.

I don't think that's the case here. Speedlite flashes behave that way – the light output is of a fixed intensity, so when you vary the flash power you are really changing the duration of the flash. However, typical monolights change their output by varying the intensity of the light produced, not the duration. Given that this was a studio setting, most likely the lighting was monolights.

 

[CJRodgers]

Yeah they where monolights. Not a big name brand, can't remember what they where.

So what is the solutions? Use a tripod and try to have a modelling light for focus if ambient is poor?

I have never noticed this problem with my flashes, but should i be careful with my flash and 135L handheld?

Craig

 

[mackguyver]

So here is the picture of the eye. I think your right, its just slightly missed focus? What do you think? A bit of sharpening and it would probably be saved!

Even at 100% I can't tell for sure, but I'm still thinking it's a slight mis-focus because I don't see any direction to the blur.

Yeah they where monolights. Not a big name brand, can't remember what they where.

So what is the solutions? Use a tripod and try to have a modelling light for focus if ambient is poor?

I have never noticed this problem with my flashes, but should i be careful with my flash and 135L handheld?

Craig

A tripod will ensure you're not introducing your own motion but may limit your creativity if you like to move around while you shoot (it's a personal style thing). I typically use a tripod for most work, especially head shots, but sometimes you want to move around if they model is moving around. A tripod will also help you keep from moving closer or further away after locking focus and is the only way you can be assured of the sharpest possible shot at that focal length, at least without IS. Using the center point and one-shot AF will help lock better focus (make sure it locks, too).

Having the modelling lights on at a low setting will help with the focus, but they can get hot and uncomfortable for the model during longer shoots. If you can raise the ambient a bit that will help with focus, but that may not be an option. Also, if you raise it too much, you'll have to bump up the power on the lights to keep the same look which (depending on the lights) could introduce additional problems with the flash duration as you get near their full power.

 

[privatebydesign]

Cheap and older monolights have longer flash durations at lower power. Close the lens down to f16 and move the lights further away to increase their power output to shorten the effective exposure time. It is only on camera flashes and more modern studio lights with IGBT circuitry that have shorter flash times with less power.

But, as I already asked, what was your ambient level and what was illuminating the background?

 

[neuroanatomist]

I have never noticed this problem with my flashes, but should i be careful with my flash and 135L handheld?

Probably not. At full power, the flash duration of most Speedlites is 1/300 s or higher.

 

[mackguyver]

Cheap and older monolights have longer flash durations at lower power. Close the lens down to f16 and move the lights further away to increase their power output to shorten the effective exposure time. It is only on camera flashes and more modern studio lights with IGBT circuitry that have shorter flash times with less power.

We are spoiled by the newer technology, aren't we?

 

[frumrk]

Here is some additional info on Monolights and flash duration here:

http://jerrycentral.com/2008/12/18/flash-duration/

As Neuro... said... the higher the power the shorter the flash duration for Mono's.. So as one may have suggested... backing the lights up and going to a higher power might be a fix.

I can easily introduce blur with a non-IS lens all the way up to shutter speeds of 1/1250th of a second just by panning slowly at 70mm. So I can see where it would be possible to get some motion blur even with a monolight if you introduce a lot of shaking when you push the shutter. So possibly you could work on your technique. I know that I used to have a jerking issue when I pushed the shutter, but have resolved that issue with practice. Otherwise... a "Steady" tripod should also resolve the issue and also a shutter release should make it perfect.

If you look here:

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=108&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=0&API=6&LensComp=108&CameraComp=453&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=0&APIComp=4

it looks like this lens is sharpest around 5.6. I wouldn't go above F8 unless you really needed the additional DOF.

Good Luck

 

[Jamesy]

If you look here:

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=108&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=0&API=6&LensComp=108&CameraComp=453&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=0&APIComp=4

it looks like this lens is sharpest around 5.6. I wouldn't go above F8 unless you really needed the additional DOF.

Good Luck

My 135L is sharpest at F5.0 as per Focal Pro. Is your lens AFMA'd to the body?

For fun you could always try walking up the sync speed too - it is a function of the camera max sync which was talked about earlier along with the trigger max sync. The worst thing that can happen is you will start to see the banding of the shutter creep into the shot - from there back it off a 1/3 of a stop or so.

 

[mackguyver]

If you look here:

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=108&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=0&API=6&LensComp=108&CameraComp=453&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=0&APIComp=4

it looks like this lens is sharpest around 5.6. I wouldn't go above F8 unless you really needed the additional DOF.

Good Luck

My 135L is sharpest at F5.0 as per Focal Pro. Is your lens AFMA'd to the body?

For fun you could always try walking up the sync speed too - it is a function of the camera max sync which was talked about earlier along with the trigger max sync. The worst thing that can happen is you will start to see the banding of the shutter creep into the shot - from there back it off a 1/3 of a stop or so.

I've never had any issues at 1/200s with the 5DIII, so that could help, too.

 

[CJRodgers]

Awesome, I still need to read all of the information you have all provided in links, but than you so much for the responces. I do like to move around a bit when shooting as I definately don't have a singnature style yet so expermenting is key, although I am sure I am very guilty of moving inwards and outwards after getting focus!

The body is new so I havent AFMA my lens' yet. However id say 80% of shots where fine, and the rest where no worse than this, which with a bit of sharpening would probably still be ok. I do need to get it done though!

Good to hear I dont need to worry about my speedlites! Ill go read up on monolights now! The next studio I might use has elinchroms, which I hear are very good.

 

[3kramd5]

If you look here:

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=108&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=0&API=6&LensComp=108&CameraComp=453&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=0&APIComp=4

it looks like this lens is sharpest around 5.6. I wouldn't go above F8 unless you really needed the additional DOF.

Good Luck

My 135L is sharpest at F5.0 as per Focal Pro. Is your lens AFMA'd to the body?

For fun you could always try walking up the sync speed too - it is a function of the camera max sync which was talked about earlier along with the trigger max sync. The worst thing that can happen is you will start to see the banding of the shutter creep into the shot - from there back it off a 1/3 of a stop or so.

I've never had any issues at 1/200s with the 5DIII, so that could help, too.

+1. I shoot my mk3 at 1/200 triggering wirelessly.

I agree with the misfocused theory. It doesn't look like motion blur, it looks like slight back focusing.

 

[Halfrack]

The fun of studio lights at other people's studios. Chances are that the old strobes are the issue - what modifiers were you using? What triggers were you using? Shooting at full power will help, but you may find inconsistency with it (color temp, etc). How long were you pausing between shots?

The Elinchrom setup should be much better. Start by doing what you did in the previous studio, then hit our suggestions for techniques to improve things.

 

[brett b]

So here is the picture of the eye. I think your right, its just slightly missed focus? What do you think? A bit of sharpening and it would probably be saved!

Even at 100% I can't tell for sure, but I'm still thinking it's a slight mis-focus because I don't see any direction to the blur.

Yeah they where monolights. Not a big name brand, can't remember what they where.

So what is the solutions? Use a tripod and try to have a modelling light for focus if ambient is poor?

I have never noticed this problem with my flashes, but should i be careful with my flash and 135L handheld?

Craig

A tripod will ensure you're not introducing your own motion but may limit your creativity if you like to move around while you shoot (it's a personal style thing). I typically use a tripod for most work, especially head shots, but sometimes you want to move around if they model is moving around. A tripod will also help you keep from moving closer or further away after locking focus and is the only way you can be assured of the sharpest possible shot at that focal length, at least without IS. Using the center point and one-shot AF will help lock better focus (make sure it locks, too).

I agree with mackguyver...It's probably a focus issue due to moving after focus lock. This happens to me, too. I also like to move around while shooting headshots and I'm certain I occasionally move after focus lock.

I use the 135L and the 85LII at narrower depths of field than what you've stated, so I can't imagine it is a lens issue.

 

[privatebydesign]

It is not miss focus, it is motion blur. What was the ambient and what is lighting the background?

How can I be so sure it is motion blur? Put the crop in PS and Smart Sharpen, change Gaussian Blur to Motion Blur and rotate the dial. If it was miss focus the sharpness would be consistent wherever you put the dial, if it is motion blur there are positions that make more difference than others, this image changes as the dial setting does so it is motion blur.

 

[RustyTheGeek]

Reading through this thread is why I like Canon Rumors. Good feedback, good knowledge and some good ideas! 8)

 

[RLPhoto]

It looks like camera shake. It could be that your mixing too much ambient w/flash. My ancient m500 Novatron's at full power had a duration of 1/300th and any decent strobe should stop camera shake. (provided you cut the ambient.)