Sportsgal501
Got hit in the face by a skateboard got the shot!
ashmadux said:
He sent it back and got a replacement a few days later, which focused 100% it apparently was a "faulty camera".
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Focus problems with the Canon 7DII?
- Thread starter JRPhotos
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He sent it back and got a replacement a few days later, which focused 100% it apparently was a "faulty camera".
neuroanatomist said:
To be quite honest I have no idea how to post a picture here. Never posted picture online anywhere. Not sure if I have any pics left or if I deleted all of them. The target was quite simple: the foam was bright yellow and about 9x8 inches. The lines were made from 1/4 inch wide black masking tape. I just had a couple of vertical lines and a couple of horizontal lines with a dot (more a small rectangle) of tape in the middle. It looked like a cross up in the left hand corner with a long right arm and the same pattern inverted for the lower right hand corner.
It's still in my basement. Haven't sent it to nasa yet.
Rod
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DominoDude said:Look at where my pointer is. Could give a clue on how to attach a photo hereRodS57 said:To be quite honest I have no idea how to post a picture here. Never posted picture online anywhere. Not sure if I have any pics left or if I deleted all of them. The target was quite simple: the foam was bright yellow and about 9x8 inches. The lines were made from 1/4 inch wide black masking tape. I just had a couple of vertical lines and a couple of horizontal lines with a dot (more a small rectangle) of tape in the middle. It looked like a cross up in the left hand corner with a long right arm and the same pattern inverted for the lower right hand corner.
It's still in my basement. Haven't sent it to nasa yet.
Rod
As you posted how to submit a picture I will do so. I've deleted the 'stealth target' shots but I can do the test again no problem. The attached shot isn't great. It was shot with the tamron 150-600; F7.1; ISO 100 @ 1/500 sec. Camera was set to case 1 AI servo with the centre block of focus points active. The camera did focus on the fence a couple of times and then went back to the jet. I had it set to 5 fps. What caused the blur? Don't know: panning technique; stabilization in the on position while moving the lens; focus moving either to or from the fence or maybe a real issue. Don't know. Need some more real world tests. So far nothing has come close in sharpness to the T3i that I have. Especially with the 70-300L attached.
Anyway, not really sure how many people on this forum have seen a rear wheel drive jet taking off
Rod
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Had mine for 2 weeks will not focus right using single point.I Know its not right, have both 1dx an 5d3.This is the first time i ever sent a camera back. Hope a replacement will be working right. I even let a friend use it an did not say anything about the focus problem an he noticed the focus problem.
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neuroanatomist said:
I actually used the target in the basement this evening. I used regular electrical tape to add thicker angled lines. No apparent problems focusing from about 24 feet. I didn't take any pictures. I just set it up to try the dot tune method for adjusting my lenses. The tamron ended up at -3 on the wide end and +2 on the long end (At least at 24 feet). My 70-300L came in at +2 on both ends. If weather permits I will test things out tomorrow. Also try to remember to take a picture of the target.
Rod
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RodS57 said:
When you are checking the accuracy of dot tune (which for me is not 100%) take some shots of a sheet of newspaper on a wall and see how the sharpness is on fine print. You can really only trust what you can see when a shot is taken, not what the electronics are reporting.
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So I had my first real run today with my Canon 7D mark ii and sadly, I have a lemon.
80%+ of my images are showing a focus point on Canon's ZoomBrowser, that were nowhere near where the camera confirmed during the shot being taken.
I'll be asking for a straight swap out, can't keep this body
Here's the best of an unsharp bunch
80%+ of my images are showing a focus point on Canon's ZoomBrowser, that were nowhere near where the camera confirmed during the shot being taken.
I'll be asking for a straight swap out, can't keep this body
Here's the best of an unsharp bunch
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Sabaki said:So I had my first real run today with my Canon 7D mark ii and sadly, I have a lemon.
80%+ of my images are showing a focus point on Canon's ZoomBrowser, that were nowhere near where the camera confirmed during the shot being taken.
I'll be asking for a straight swap out, can't keep this body
Here's the best of an unsharp bunch
Focuspoints in zoom browser or DPP are not accurate. They only give you a general idea of which point was active and where. I wouldnt consider the camera a lemon because of a software issue. More likely you need to micro focus adjust your camera to your lens.
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East Wind Photography said:Sabaki said:So I had my first real run today with my Canon 7D mark ii and sadly, I have a lemon.
80%+ of my images are showing a focus point on Canon's ZoomBrowser, that were nowhere near where the camera confirmed during the shot being taken.
I'll be asking for a straight swap out, can't keep this body
Here's the best of an unsharp bunch
Focuspoints in zoom browser or DPP are not accurate. They only give you a general idea of which point was active and where. I wouldnt consider the camera a lemon because of a software issue. More likely you need to micro focus adjust your camera to your lens.
Can I add lenses my camera doesn't recognize?
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I had a problem with OOF shots and finally decided to exchange the camera. Here is the note I sent in with the camera for exchange.
Exchange of Canon EOS 7d MII
I believe the enclosed camera (7D Mark II) is defective and has a focus issue at extreme telephoto ranges. I was using lenses that were calibrated by CPS and they are sharp on my 5dIII. I tried a variety of focus options including MFA in an attempt to acquire accurate focus at long telephoto ranges. Results were similar with single shot, AI Servo, single point AF, Expanded AF and Area AF.
Core Problem: At the long end of zoom and prime telephoto, images are at varying degrees of OOF. Very few acceptable images and even those are not “sharp”.
Experience level: Very experienced. Currently own Canon 5d M III, G15, Sony RX 100 MIII, and shoot with 1dX on big trips. Have previously owned 1Ds, 5d, 5d M II, 7d, 10d, 20d, 30d, 40d and a variety of G series. I typically upgrade when new technology is available or my shooting needs change. I primarily shoot wildlife and nature.
Test Subject: Wild geese on a pond near my home, just floating and looking for food. Some shots were when they were out of the water feeding on the bank.
Weather Conditions: Perfect afternoon fall light in mountains (3:00-5:00 pm). I shot for about 30 minutes each day over 3 days, checked results on 27” iMAC to determine if anything could be technique related. Had IS on for a few shots on tripod, but couldn’t spot any other technique or setting issues that could have caused OOF issue.
ISO, Shutter speed, Aperture - ISO was 400-800, Shutter speed was 1/500 - 1/1000, aperture was f4.0 - f11. Kept these balanced for the optimal shutter speed/DOF based on the focal length of the lens.
Lenses - Canon EF 300 f4 L IS, Canon EF 70-200 f2.8 L IS II, Canon EF 1.4x TC III was used for some shots. No filters and all of the lenses were clean. AF was selected on both lenses.
Tripod - 80-90% of Shots were on Gitzo Tripod with RRS ball head. IS was OFF for tripod shots.
AF Method - Case 1 & Case 2, Single Shot & AI Focus, Single point, Expanded, Expanded Area. In reviewing the files in DPP, the active focus point was on the head/neck of the bird or over the body if they are at extreme range. The Geese were mostly at the far end of the range for this lens combination. These were wild geese and I couldn’t get them close enough to fill the frame with the lenses I had available.
Camera settings - After the first day, I reset the camera to factory defaults with the exception of back button focus, Image quality (RAW + large JPEG), and selecting the different AF settings provided by the camera. After reset, I DID NOT change any of the custom settings like release or focus priority on AF.
Review of the RAW images in DPP (I also checked the JPEG images). I did apply sharpening to attempt to pull out a sharper image. Images were pretty much perfectly exposed except for a few shots where they were against a darker background. While there were a few passable shots (less than 5%), most of the images appeared to be different levels of OOF. There was no motion blur in the images.
I think the features of the 7d MII are great. I also believe the camera is capable of better images than I was able to produce with this copy of the body. I have enough experience with APS-C sensors to know what to expect from the sensor and this looks like there are focus issues with this particular camera at longer focal lengths on distant images. I am not perfect, but this was a relatively controlled environment and I took enough shots that I should have had one or two really good images of the subject. I finally had to give up before I put too many shots on the camera.
Please provide a factory new unit as exchange or take this as a return if a new exchange is not possible. I do not want a refurb or repair since this is a new camera.
Exchange of Canon EOS 7d MII
I believe the enclosed camera (7D Mark II) is defective and has a focus issue at extreme telephoto ranges. I was using lenses that were calibrated by CPS and they are sharp on my 5dIII. I tried a variety of focus options including MFA in an attempt to acquire accurate focus at long telephoto ranges. Results were similar with single shot, AI Servo, single point AF, Expanded AF and Area AF.
Core Problem: At the long end of zoom and prime telephoto, images are at varying degrees of OOF. Very few acceptable images and even those are not “sharp”.
Experience level: Very experienced. Currently own Canon 5d M III, G15, Sony RX 100 MIII, and shoot with 1dX on big trips. Have previously owned 1Ds, 5d, 5d M II, 7d, 10d, 20d, 30d, 40d and a variety of G series. I typically upgrade when new technology is available or my shooting needs change. I primarily shoot wildlife and nature.
Test Subject: Wild geese on a pond near my home, just floating and looking for food. Some shots were when they were out of the water feeding on the bank.
Weather Conditions: Perfect afternoon fall light in mountains (3:00-5:00 pm). I shot for about 30 minutes each day over 3 days, checked results on 27” iMAC to determine if anything could be technique related. Had IS on for a few shots on tripod, but couldn’t spot any other technique or setting issues that could have caused OOF issue.
ISO, Shutter speed, Aperture - ISO was 400-800, Shutter speed was 1/500 - 1/1000, aperture was f4.0 - f11. Kept these balanced for the optimal shutter speed/DOF based on the focal length of the lens.
Lenses - Canon EF 300 f4 L IS, Canon EF 70-200 f2.8 L IS II, Canon EF 1.4x TC III was used for some shots. No filters and all of the lenses were clean. AF was selected on both lenses.
Tripod - 80-90% of Shots were on Gitzo Tripod with RRS ball head. IS was OFF for tripod shots.
AF Method - Case 1 & Case 2, Single Shot & AI Focus, Single point, Expanded, Expanded Area. In reviewing the files in DPP, the active focus point was on the head/neck of the bird or over the body if they are at extreme range. The Geese were mostly at the far end of the range for this lens combination. These were wild geese and I couldn’t get them close enough to fill the frame with the lenses I had available.
Camera settings - After the first day, I reset the camera to factory defaults with the exception of back button focus, Image quality (RAW + large JPEG), and selecting the different AF settings provided by the camera. After reset, I DID NOT change any of the custom settings like release or focus priority on AF.
Review of the RAW images in DPP (I also checked the JPEG images). I did apply sharpening to attempt to pull out a sharper image. Images were pretty much perfectly exposed except for a few shots where they were against a darker background. While there were a few passable shots (less than 5%), most of the images appeared to be different levels of OOF. There was no motion blur in the images.
I think the features of the 7d MII are great. I also believe the camera is capable of better images than I was able to produce with this copy of the body. I have enough experience with APS-C sensors to know what to expect from the sensor and this looks like there are focus issues with this particular camera at longer focal lengths on distant images. I am not perfect, but this was a relatively controlled environment and I took enough shots that I should have had one or two really good images of the subject. I finally had to give up before I put too many shots on the camera.
Please provide a factory new unit as exchange or take this as a return if a new exchange is not possible. I do not want a refurb or repair since this is a new camera.
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Sabaki said:East Wind Photography said:Sabaki said:So I had my first real run today with my Canon 7D mark ii and sadly, I have a lemon.
80%+ of my images are showing a focus point on Canon's ZoomBrowser, that were nowhere near where the camera confirmed during the shot being taken.
I'll be asking for a straight swap out, can't keep this body
Here's the best of an unsharp bunch
Focuspoints in zoom browser or DPP are not accurate. They only give you a general idea of which point was active and where. I wouldnt consider the camera a lemon because of a software issue. More likely you need to micro focus adjust your camera to your lens.
Can I add lenses my camera doesn't recognize?
Not sure I understand your question. Are you asking about AFMA on a 3rd party lens?
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East Wind Photography said:
I have never said I had a problem. For me it has always been 'do I have a problem?' There are a lot of people on this forum and elsewhere that have the experience, knowledge and skill to know when they have a piece of hardware with a problem. I am in the other 99%. I am sure there are quite a few people who do have a problem with their camera (not specifically the 7D2) but, like myself, do not have the background to positively say it is the camera. I always blame bad shots on user error. Today was the first sunny day I've seen on a weekend since my camera arrived. As a result I've had little time to practice and get to know the camera in real world situations and even today, it was all about what the camera works like and not trying to get 'the' shot.
With testing in mind. There are 4 pictures attached. In each case there is the resized original followed by a 100% crop. The pictures are SOOC jpgs. All shots at ISO 100 with the 70-300L, only centre focus point and at 300mm (I've set MFA to +2 for this lens). First pair at F5.7, 1/1000 sec, range is about 120 feet. Second pair F6.3, 1/400 sec, range about 25-30 feet. In the first crop the muskrat does look a little soft but judging from the surroundings focus seems to be well placed. The second crop looks like it is suffering from a lack of depth of field and maybe a bit low on the shutter speed to completely freeze the movement but focus looks ok.
Comments anyone?
Rod
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No worries Rod. I sometimes reply to comments knowing that others are reading since this is a public forum. One thing I willadd that it's difficult to judge sharpness when shooting over ice. Many times I've thought I've had a problem only to discover that the distortions were my problem.
Really try to set up a controlled environment. I just finished AFMA calibrations on my 600 and once it was locked the images are now tack sharp. Again the newspaper on the wall trick is a great way to test things out and verify all is as expected.
Really try to set up a controlled environment. I just finished AFMA calibrations on my 600 and once it was locked the images are now tack sharp. Again the newspaper on the wall trick is a great way to test things out and verify all is as expected.
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I am having a hard time not making a wise crack about the "beaver shot". I think rhe comment about shooting over the ice is a good point. It looks to be focused in the right spot but the seeing conditions are bad. Its hard to get a clear shot shooting over melting ice or open water in the winter.
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East Wind Photography said:
To you and GraFax. Will have to try the newspaper test or actually a slight modification of it: a couple of large pages of small text from a laser printer so I will have clean, sharp edges. As for the pictures I posted I didn't get any nasty surprises. At this point I think my copy of the 7D2 does not exhibit the focus problems others have mentioned. ( consistently OOF images, random front/back focus) At least not with the lens I used today.
Thanks for comments and suggestions. Now I have to wait for another nice day off to shoot some more
Rod
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candc said:
We are sliding into the deep freeze here. Conditions will push the camera and my skills to the limit. Not a good time of year to get a new camera for outdoor shooting but I didn't want to get caught in a long wait like I did last winter with the tamron 150-600. That being said, winter can yield amazing pictures if you get it right.
I also think the focus range is in the correct area. The focus point was on the not a beaver. Difficult conditions, yes. The ice reflects a lot of heat so it is hard to get clear shots at a low angle. On the up side, as it gets colder the number of sunny days increases as really cold air carries very little moisture.
Rod
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GraFax said:RodS57 said:Thanks for comments and suggestions. Now I have to wait for another nice day off to shoot some more
Rod
Winter shooting is never easy but can yield excellent images. Good tips from the other posters as usual. Water vapor rising from melting ice ruins sharpness. I wasn't even thinking of that. Winter pictures often yield better results on days when the air temp is consistently below freezing and the air is very dry, still and clear.
Read the manual. I say this as someone who has learned this the hard way. Seriously
Quick question. Using dot tune method I have the tamron 150-600 set to +3 on the wide end and -2 on the long end. A quick test showed it is definitely front focusing at 250. Are the micro adjustments linear along the zoom range. In other words the adjustment range is 5 over the focal length so is it safe to assume it has moved from +3 at 150 to about +2 at 250. I have it pushed up to +6 on the wide end now and have taken more shots. Trying to figure out which direction to work on regarding the adjustments.
Thanks
Rod
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neuroanatomist said:RodS57 said:
It's a simple linear regression between the W and T values. Here are my confirmatory data, tested with 4 different lenses set to W = -10 and T = +10:
FWIW, I've found 'dot tune' to be somewhat unreliable.
Thanks. I'm getting in a few shots when I come home for lunch. Not a controlled situation with tripod and measured distances but it gives me good separation between the different MFA settings. Image sharpness is much better now at 250mm so I've started to work on the back focus on the long end. I've found the almost black roof rack on my white Ford explorer to be an excellent test subject for these quickie lunchtime tests.
Rod
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