Milky Way in Margaret River , West Australia.
1DX, 8-15 Fisheye @ 15 mm, 30 s, F4, 3200 iso
1DX, 8-15 Fisheye @ 15 mm, 30 s, F4, 3200 iso
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Good work, and the satellite kind of adds to it.joshmurrah said:Here's a recent shot of mine... had a good opportunity while at a beach condo facing the Gulf of Mexico on a moonless night.
Canon 5D3, 16-35 f/2.8L II - ISO 3200, f/2.8, 16mm, 30 seconds (right around the 600 rule)
Within Adobe PS CS6' ACR tool: cooled the temp to 3300K w/ -2 tint, contrast +98, clarity +48, vibrance/saturation both +21, +52 NR w/ 82 detail, and a very slight crop.
Hope you guys enjoy and find the details helpful.
A bit too much noise in my opinion but its a bold striking image, good job!wopbv4 said:Milky Way in Margaret River , West Australia.
1DX, 8-15 Fisheye @ 15 mm, 30 s, F4, 3200 iso
I like the third image the best. What was making the bright light?StudentOfLight said:Some wide field astrophotography. Hopefully I can help bring this thread back to life.
The first two were taken on a river/camping trip outside Citrusdal. The third image is part of a time-lapse sequence shot North of Tulbagh.
The third image is lovely!StudentOfLight said:Some wide field astrophotography. Hopefully I can help bring this thread back to life.
The first two were taken on a river/camping trip outside Citrusdal. The third image is part of a time-lapse sequence shot North of Tulbagh.
Thanks, this is a nice image, but it looks fake. The dark dust in the Milky Way, is darker than the ground and the shadows on it. The contrast is far too high in the sky, and almost too low on the ground below. It looks like a CG animation to me. If it had been done more naturally, it would have looked better.jrista said:This is not my image, however it is the most amazing milky way image I've ever seen. Blows my mind how good it is:
http://www.astrobin.com/full/46622/C/
Love that looping dust lane with three nebula, a golden one, a pink one, and a blue one, towards the lower left corner (that is part of the constellation Scorpius, the yellow is the star Antares, the pink is Al Niyat, and the blue is IC4603). Freakin amazing image.
Very nice work! Is the third image not a stitched pano?Andy_Hodapp said:Some shots with my Canon 5d mkii and 50mm 1.8. Most of the shots are at about 10 seconds F/1.8, iso 1600, all are in my backyard in Montana.
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The first and the third as panosCarlTN said:Very nice work! Is the third image not a stitched pano?Andy_Hodapp said:Some shots with my Canon 5d mkii and 50mm 1.8. Most of the shots are at about 10 seconds F/1.8, iso 1600, all are in my backyard in Montana.
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I'm not sure but it might have been a security light on a neighboring farm or warehouse on the other side of the valley. It was reasonably bright to the naked eye and didn't move for the entire evening of timelapse shots.CarlTN said:I like the third image the best. What was making the bright light?StudentOfLight said:Some wide field astrophotography. Hopefully I can help bring this thread back to life.
The first two were taken on a river/camping trip outside Citrusdal. The third image is part of a time-lapse sequence shot North of Tulbagh.
StudentOfLight said:"Reach for the stars"
My most recent Astro pic
Thanks for the advice. I'm really looking forward to my next trip which will be into the desert so much less light pollution as well than my previous shots.jrista said:Nice milky way view there, Student.
If you want to stack, you really need to use full RAW. The Canon mRAW format is actually more like a JPEG than anything, a 4:2:2 encoding of Y (luminance) and Cb (blue/yellow channel) and Cr (red/green channel). It is 14-bit, but it is actually not even remotely "raw". Stacking non-raw images doesn't produce nearly the same kind of results as stacking true RAW images.
For stacking to be most effective, you also want to have fairly closely temperature matched "dark frames" (same exposure time, ISO, and temperature...within a few degrees), say 30 of them, as well as about 150 "bias frames" (same ISO, shortest possible exposure time like 1/4000th or 1/8000th...super easy to create, and the more you stack, the better they are to calibrate.)
Once you have some real RAW lights, and some darks and biases, then you can stack with DSS, and the process is largely automated. Export as a TIFF (WITHOUT applying modifications), and you can do some pretty amazing tweaking and stretching in photoshop.