You're not really recovering anything. You're just extending the white point all the way to 16,383 instead of cutting it off at around 4,095 like the camera's JPEG engine that generates the preview image is doing it.
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More features and specifications for the Canon EOS R3 have emerged
- Thread starter Canon Rumors
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You're not really recovering anything. You're just extending the white point all the way to 16,383 instead of cutting it off at around 4,095 like the camera's JPEG engine that generates the preview image is doing it.
My comment was not to make any controversy. I know pros photographers (everybody into extreme sports) that carry their bodies only into backpack. Inserts foam thickness is usually between 1 and 2cm. The R3 evf seems to exceed that, and may generate issues to pack body and lenses side by side. Same issue for those who carry on themselves or on the passanger seat, the EVF exceed a lot the body and may cause premature wear of the soft part.
My point of view, and I hope I'm wrong.
Finally, I hope people will use eye control AF a lot, because if not, they will carry this big EVF for nothing.
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That still does not make the RAW files any smaller. Huge files cause a lot of issues. Also if you know that you have more megapixels available, you might try to adjust your photography to those many megaxpixels. For example you might carry a tripod a steadier photo in case you want to crop that photo later. Sometimes having more options restricts your freedom instead of growing it. With 60 megapixels you will always find yourself trying to achieve a very sharp 60 mepapixel photo. Only having to care about "20 megapixel sharpness" releases a lot of pressure.
The optimum for me would be a camera with the same sensor as the R6, a much larger and heavier body and CF Express cards instead of HD cards. The camera should also have a top display like the R5 and a second display on the back like the 1D X III. And all that for around $5000 with the EF adapter and a second battery included. That would make me happy.
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With this mindset the megapixel's do not matter, nor does the "sharpness" of your pictures. Imagine how much less stress it would be to use your cell phone as your primary camera.
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I think you are 100% correct, and to the specific case use suggesting more DR will 'fix the problem' illustrates a complete misunderstanding by the first poster (who has me blocked so won't see this anyway) of how the eye processes high dynamic range scenes and how increasing camera DR won't actually get the image he thinks.
Essentially the interior has a DR and the exterior has a DR, in HDR the exterior will almost always be several stops over exposed in relation to the interior, this means the shadows outside will be higher than the upper midtones inside. Using curves to 'correct' this so it more accurately represents the scene in a 'natural' way, that is how the brain processes the information from the eye, will always look odd, or HDR. The better way, even with cameras capable of HDR capture, is to take two exposures (though often many more) where you want them to be and blend them in post. This is the only way I have found to make the interior and exterior images look natural and where you have complete control over the respective brightnesses of the interior and exterior.
And to be sure there is no one right way, sometimes blown out exteriors for the mood or because of the view are the right way anyway, whereas sometimes showing the exterior view to full effect is the entire point of the building.
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If by ‘always’ you mean just the 1DX-1DX II-1DX III then you have a point, if by always you actually mean always then the 1 series cycle has varied from 2 years, 1D III-1D IV, to 6 years, 1N-1V
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Cell phones can't take sharp photos at all. They are only sharp enough for Instagram. 16 megapixels is the best resolultion for photos. Enough megapixels for even bigger posters and for stock agencies, but still sharp on a pixel level. 20 megapixel or even 24 are still okay to give you some room for cropping to different formats. From there on evey additional megapixel is a downside. The photos of a 150 megapixel camera from Phase One do not really look well on a pixel level. And that camera costs $40,000. Imagine Phase One offered a 20 megapixel version. Those pixels would be huge and the image would look super clean. I would not buy it anyway, as I do not have $40,000 to spare, but a low megapixel medium format camera would be cool.
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That precedent could change due to the change in mount this time around. Canon is really pushing the RF mount and the 1DX3 helps sell exactly 0 RF lenses. Therefore there is an incentive for them to shorten the upgrade cycle this time.
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Exactly, and if we go back to that last precedent, FD-EOS, the New F-1 to EOS-1 was eight years, though nobody expects that kind of delay.
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Nice natural balance
Just to be pedantic; the brain sees, not the eye which is why we are able to see things in the way you describe, and why some people really do see ghosts - even though they are not really there !
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I think that there are 2 points here: capture time for the sensor and read out time for the sensor. The read out time will define how fast the continuous fps will be. The capture time will dictate the fastest shutter speed. Mechanical shutters get to 1/8000s but they get there by a slit travelling over the sensor. It may be much less with a global shutter. Interesting to see how it is implemented
By "less" I think you mean longer. 1/1000 or 1/4000 is more than 1/8000, not less.
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You're confusing two different dials. The R3 also has the "main dial" directly behind the shutter button on the top of the grip in addition to the the new third wheel on the top of the back of the grip.
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It's all pretty easy to see in the WFT-R10 User Manual, which has the same control layout as the BG-R10.
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How many times has Canon been D*O*O*M*E*D because they didn't offer a camera with identical specs and price to that of a competitor. According to the internet, they were dead and buried long ago. Yet here we are.
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