Question for super-experts

Sporgon said:
I just shot this on the original 5D from 2005. I got my first 5D in 2005 when they first came out, then ran one alongside the 5DII and 6D before selling it a couple of years ago. Just got another mint, late serial number one now for a snip.

5D + 28m f/2.8 IS, 100 iso, 1/50th, f/5.6.

So much for 12 bit vs 14 bit, 10 stops DR vs 12 etc ! ;)

(Incidentally I'd quite happily put a 6D up against an a7rII anyday. But did I mention I sold the 6D ? Oooops.)

That's a nice pic! But having more range in DR makes it easier to make sure we capture everything on the picture, so for mortals it's good to have camera with high DR.
 
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candc said:
this is a comparison shot taken with a 70d + sigma 8-16 @ 10mm and 6d + 16-35 f/4 is @ 16mm. in good light there is not a big iq difference. the 6d combo has some advantages (takes filters, has is)

A couple of thoughts I can say.
1) observing the center of two files and by enlarging it, you note that the leaves on the right frame are sharper than those of the left frame.
2) always in the right frame (crops), the reflections in the water in the corner are evident while in the file of the left are almost disappeared.

In my opinion this confirms the ability of FF to "retrieve information" in the areas of shade so much more evident with respect to the APC-C.

So in conclusion :on sharpness, is certainly important the lens (8-16 Sigma vs 16-35L), but about the dynamic range I do not think that there are doubts!
 
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I think you should not look too much for sharpness difference here, an 80D with 24Mp will give you slightly better resolution the a 6D with 20Mp, given you're using the same lens. With full frame or APS-C, sharpness can be the same, it comes down to the lens quality, shooting technique (tripod), diffraction (f-stop) and low pass filter. Fact is these days, Canon is one of the last brand to use a low pass filter on the sensor, for high end cameras, that clearly reduces details at pixel level.

It doesn't remove the moiré when there is some, and some sharpness is lost on all pictures. It's a lose-lose situation IMO.

I am looking to replace my old 5D2s for work, and I hesitate between the 5DSr for the resolution and sharpness and a 5D4 for the newer sensor tech, but the low pass filter on the 5D4 is for me a big disappointment.

When using full frame, you look at other details compared to small sensors, higher ISO, better light detail, the joy to use a big viewfinder, in general better files to work with. They are small details for the untrained eye, but are real nonetheless. Not talking about shallower depth of field, that gives you more creative options and better background separation.

Plus if you come from film, there is the pleasure to have a camera that gives you focal lenses you are used to.

If you used roll films, you must be used to things like a big viewfinder, you know what I am talking about. Personally, my favorite tools for landscapes is still my trusted Linhof 4x5 cameras.
 
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tpatana said:
Sporgon said:
I just shot this on the original 5D from 2005. I got my first 5D in 2005 when they first came out, then ran one alongside the 5DII and 6D before selling it a couple of years ago. Just got another mint, late serial number one now for a snip.

5D + 28m f/2.8 IS, 100 iso, 1/50th, f/5.6.

So much for 12 bit vs 14 bit, 10 stops DR vs 12 etc ! ;)

(Incidentally I'd quite happily put a 6D up against an a7rII anyday. But did I mention I sold the 6D ? Oooops.)

That's a nice pic! But having more range in DR makes it easier to make sure we capture everything on the picture, so for mortals it's good to have camera with high DR.

Thanks !

Agreed, more DR is better for exposure options, but to access currently available "high DR" you have to under expose, so gain more highlight recording and then bring up the lowlights. That's all well and good if you are not sacrificing too much tonality. Actually, in the image I posted here, that is an example where the greater "14 stops of DR" would have helped.
 
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symmar22 said:
I think you should not look too much for sharpness difference here, an 80D with 24Mp will give you slightly better resolution the a 6D with 20Mp

I am sorry but I am not agree.
The sharpness is not only due to the number of pixels but also by their size.
A sensor FF 20 MP will have larger pixels to capture more light, otherwise we do not understand why the first EOS 1 had 4.1 Mpx and 1Dx ( certainly professional) "only" 18.1!

The unbridled race to the increase the number of MPX has produced a "monster" as the 5D-S, with which ALL the optics (even those most famous) seem poor...
When photographed with the film, the LEITZ lenses were famous for the micro-contrast more than for the resolving power, thus gave a feeling of great sharpness call "edge effect".
 
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You get more sharpness by increasing the pixel amount, or the optical quality. The only difference for pure sharpness with bigger pixels is that you are less diffraction limited. Larger pixels will allow you to stop down (for example) to f11, when smaller pixels would start to show diffraction at f8 (always an example).

The higher resolution of the 5DS has nothing to do with the quality of the optics, it will just "amplify" the optical flaws. Of course a good lens will use the sensor better, but the same picture taken with the same lens (before the diffraction limit) will be sharper with 50Mp than with 20Mp.

What the bigger pixels can do however, is cleaner high ISO and more DR (cleaner shadows). The full frame allows you to use a wider choice of lenses, to have more background separation (less depth of field by default), and a larger viewfinder.

The difference between nowadays full frame and crop sensor is not as dramatic as it was 10 years ago, nor is the pixels size as important. The 5DS has improved image quality over the 5D3 (except for high ISO) and despite its much smaller pixels, it has less shadow noise, more DR and less banding.

I saw an interesting test about the Sony A7R2 having finally about the same DR and high ISO capacity than the A7S2, despite having 3.5 more pixels.
 
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if you feel like you need ff go for a 5d mark iii as of now you can get a grey market copy for nineteen hundred dollars and that is with out all of the used ones that will be hitting the market
whatever you do know in your mind that for you its the perfect thing
 
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On one of the most important forum of photography in Italy (JUZAPhoto) ) I read that many 6D are affected by a congenital defect to exposure meter, which under exposes randomly from -0.5 to -1.5 even!
It seems that the defect is not only about the cameras of pre-series but that there is also now.

Someone knows the problem ?
 
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GP.Masserano said:
On one of the most important forum of photography in Italy (JUZAPhoto) ) I read that many 6D are affected by a congenital defect to exposure meter, which under exposes randomly from -0.5 to -1.5 even!
It seems that the defect is not only about the cameras of pre-series but that there is also now.

Someone knows the problem ?

I think that myth probably started because the 6D uses a partial colour meter, which can make it behave quite differently from one that isn't colour based in some situations. With a lot of blue it tended to under expose.
 
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Incredible !
A few weeks ago I wrote about the possibility of a 6D mkII short times and...now multiply the "items"...

My dream?
24 mp (I think that more Mp are unnecessary and expensive in this model of camera)
5fsec are enough
1/8000 (It is not difficult to do)
more focus points "cross"
Digic 6
price not too high..... ::) around 2000euros

Wath do you think about?
 
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I have a 5D Mklll and a 7D mkll. Full frame carries noticeably more fine detail which suits landscape. Yes, lenses are important, as an everyday lens I use the the 24-105 a lot, I would seriously consider the mkll version of this lens when the test results are out....it is very useful for landscapes saving carrying a lot of additional weight.
Back to bodies, I would not personally buy a 6D, courtesy of its 1 cross type sensor. The 5D Mklll has 41 cross types I think, making focussing far more reliable all across the screen. You can get a 5D Mklll now for the same price as the expected price on the 6D mkll - assuming it happens.
Get a new or well cared for 5D Mklll and then look at high quality glass. I don't struggle with dynamic range, so don't be fooled into spending an extra 2K on an additional 2 stops of dynamic range.
 
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