I really enjoy my 16-35 f/4 IS but not yet enough (lack of time). I hope to go out in the weekend and do some landscape shooting 
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brad-man said:The 16-35 f/4L is the finest UWA zoom that Canon has ever produced in absolutely every aspect other than aperture. If you need to stop action in low light without a flash, then it is not the lens for you. For everyone else that wants to upgrade, it's a no-brainer. I don't have a 2.8 to compare it to but I have compared it to my 17-40, and when I sell the 17-40, I'm going to feel guilty accepting money for it![]()
dilbert said:abcde12345 said:Anyone wanna compare it with the Tokina 16-28mm F2.8?
Tokina lens has a curved front element that is much easier to damage and much harder to filter.
abcde12345 said:I understand that but merely considering the image quality?
Lawliet said:abcde12345 said:I understand that but merely considering the image quality?
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=949&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=0&API=2&LensComp=773&CameraComp=453&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=0&APIComp=3
Not much difference, other factors will most likely dominate.
So we're back to handling and utility for other uses, thats where the Canon wins in my book.
GMCPhotographics said:I wonder if Canon are re-jigging their wide zoom range. Maybe from a 17-40L f4 and 16-35 f2.8 II L range to a 16-35mm f4 LIS and 12-24mm f2.8 ranges?
If so, I can see both being added to my lens bag.
neuroanatomist said:Ruined said:Except when you are forced to 12800+ ISO on the f/4 IS to compensate for less light entering the camera due to a maximum aperture of f/4 at a dim event, in which case the IQ of the 16-35 f/2.8L II at f/2.8-ISO 6400 will be far superior. f/4 lets in half the light of f/2.8, meaning you will be forced into motion-blur inducing shutter speeds or very high isos in dim light with moving subjects. IS can't help motion blur. I did see you qualify with your statements with "unless you need f/2.8," but the rest of your post seems to ignore these important issues.
Indeed. The extra stop of the f/2.8 lens is certainly needed in some cases. Looking over my EXIF, for me that need is very, very rare.
privatebydesign said:mackguyver said:You're correct, and in my case, I never had clients who appreciated that type of shot, so I never went for it. I've seen some amazing bridal shots and portraits with 12 and 14mm lenses, so it's definitely possible if used correctly and I'm sure you've taken some great onesRuined said:I have both, and use the 24mm 1.4 when I can - because 1.4 is much better than 2.8
It is true that shooting people at 16mm is a challenge. But, if you keep them dead center, generally most of the distortion is avoided. If you do it right, you can actually make some quite impressive photos where you essentially isolate a mostly-undistorted subject via distorton (instead of say bokeh).
Generally I use the 16-35 for parts of events where 24 won't be wide enough, or for the ultimate in environmental portraiture. Is having 16-23mm absolutely 100% necessary? Probably not, but then again those unique shots is what can make your work stand out.![]()
One very cool thing you can do with shift lenses is shift to the side and then frame a person on the opposite side to the shift, doing this you can put a person on the extreme edge of a 17mm shot with no distortion.
mackguyver said:Just picked mine up this morning and that's probably the last time I buy from B&H. "Expedited" shipping was UPS Ground and they require signature and blocked all options for alternate delivery other than picking it up on the other side of town at the UPS airport terminal. I don't know why they wouldn't let me re-route to a UPS Store at the very least. Very annoyed to waste over an hour of my day.
Also very excited to have the lens, though![]()
No, it's actually with B&H because when I went to the MyUPS page to authorize delivery without signature or re-route to a UPS Store, those and every other option other than picking it up at the UPS distribution center were all listed as "Not authorized per shipper's request" or something like that, which I have never seen from any other shippers other than one time I ordered some really expensive jewelry for my wife. Usually I can release the signature or at least send it to a UPS store, where you still have to show your ID and sign for it. B&H has also done the "direct signature required" for orders under $20, which really irritates me as well. We can't all be home all day waiting for the delivery guy.GMCPhotographics said:I think your problem is with UPS and not with B&H. Let B&H know of your issues, they might swing their postal contract in future.
lycan said:To those that say that the f/4 IS is only sharper in the corners comparing to the 2.8 IS II, have you seen this review?
http://www.alexnail.com/blog/reviews/review-canon-16-35-f4l-is-vs-16-35-f2-8l-ii/
maybe then, you will change your mind. The f/4 IS, is sharper in the corners and in the center, wide open or not, and on the wide and tele end.
It's sharper from 16mm to 35mm in all apertures, except 2.8 ofc
Ruined said:lycan said:To those that say that the f/4 IS is only sharper in the corners comparing to the 2.8 IS II, have you seen this review?
http://www.alexnail.com/blog/reviews/review-canon-16-35-f4l-is-vs-16-35-f2-8l-ii/
maybe then, you will change your mind. The f/4 IS, is sharper in the corners and in the center, wide open or not, and on the wide and tele end.
It's sharper from 16mm to 35mm in all apertures, except 2.8 ofc
At 12800+ ISO due to lack of light at f/4 at a dim event, it will be fuzzier and noisier at all apertures than the f/2.8L II at f/2.8 ISO 6400. So to answer your question, no![]()