• UPDATE



    The forum will be moving to a new domain in the near future (canonrumorsforum.com). I have turned off "read-only", but I will only leave the two forum nodes you see active for the time being.

    I don't know at this time how quickly the change will happen, but that will move at a good pace I am sure.

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Sigma Announce a 150-600mm f/5-6.3 DG OS HSM Sport Lens

Lee Jay said:
AlanF said:
The 100-400 + 2 x 1.4TCs doesn't look any better than the SX50, which costs less than 2 TCs

I hope you were kidding. Your SX50 shot is noisy, over-sharpened, full of halos and artifacts, and full of CA. Make sure you click on my shot to see it at full size.

This post is for the benefit of everyone here.

Moon detail is very dependent upon seeing. You can have phenomenal seeing as though your looking through crystal clear, perfectly still water, and you can have seeing so bad that it looks like your looking through a vat of boiling water.

As for the halos and artifacts and whatnot, it depends on how the image was processed...if it is an OOC JPEG, then it's a flawed comparison.

Here are two full size moon photos of mine...same equipment, 840mm (600/4 + 1.4x TC), different nights. On one night the seeing was pretty bad, and on the other the seeing was very good. You can see the differences...certain surface features in the image with great seeing aren't visible at all in the image with poor seeing (namely, small craters, nuanced surface features, etc.)

Bad Seeing
hx9ula3.jpg


Good Seeing
1OvCJMG.jpg


Unless your comparing moon images taken on the same night with the same seeing, then they tend to be a poor guage of relative camera quality, as seeing can vary so widely, and is generally the dominant force affecting sharpness and detail.
 
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jrista said:
Lee Jay said:
AlanF said:
The 100-400 + 2 x 1.4TCs doesn't look any better than the SX50, which costs less than 2 TCs

I hope you were kidding. Your SX50 shot is noisy, over-sharpened, full of halos and artifacts, and full of CA. Make sure you click on my shot to see it at full size.

This post is for the benefit of everyone here.

Moon detail is very dependent upon seeing. You can have phenomenal seeing as though your looking through crystal clear, perfectly still water, and you can have seeing so bad that it looks like your looking through a vat of boiling water.

As for the halos and artifacts and whatnot, it depends on how the image was processed...if it is an OOC JPEG, then it's a flawed comparison.

Here are two full size moon photos of mine...same equipment, 840mm (600/4 + 1.4x TC), different nights. On one night the seeing was pretty bad, and on the other the seeing was very good. You can see the differences...certain surface features in the image with great seeing aren't visible at all in the image with poor seeing (namely, small craters, nuanced surface features, etc.)

Bad Seeing
hx9ula3.jpg


Good Seeing
1OvCJMG.jpg


Unless your comparing moon images taken on the same night with the same seeing, then they tend to be a poor guage of relative camera quality, as seeing can vary so widely, and is generally the dominant force affecting sharpness and detail.

Yes, this is worth pointing out.
 
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pknight said:
Just making sure I understand. It doesn't sound like you have the Tamron, and that you were disappointed with the size of the front element and the low price. Interesting.

Nope just to clarify I currently own the Sigma 120-300mm + TCs combo (but yes also a 100-400 for travel purposes lol). And the Tamron certainly took it up to the Sigma combo for half the price, but since I already own the former I'll obviously stick to that.

Things like 105mm front element seem minor, but like the price all rumour to the Sigma not cutting as many corners as the Tamron and hopefully leading to a better quality lens that they are charging extra for; and going off recent releases and this rumour I reckon it's a good chance this will be noticeably better than the Sigma 120-300 combo with the 2x TC.

I do like having the 420mm/4 option (well more realistically f/4.5~5 for a sharpness kick) but if the 600mm holds up really well at say f/7.1 (even better if wide open) then that could be convincing enough for me to side step.

So to relate it back to what I was saying with the Tamron; it's good for the price but in the end (Obi Wan voice) is not the native 600mm lens I was looking for.
 
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dufflover said:
pknight said:
Just making sure I understand. It doesn't sound like you have the Tamron, and that you were disappointed with the size of the front element and the low price. Interesting.

Nope just to clarify I currently own the Sigma 120-300mm + TCs combo (but yes also a 100-400 for travel purposes lol). And the Tamron certainly took it up to the Sigma combo for half the price, but since I already own the former I'll obviously stick to that.

Things like 105mm front element seem minor, but like the price all rumour to the Sigma not cutting as many corners as the Tamron and hopefully leading to a better quality lens that they are charging extra for; and going off recent releases and this rumour I reckon it's a good chance this will be noticeably better than the Sigma 120-300 combo with the 2x TC.

I do like having the 420mm/4 option (well more realistically f/4.5~5 for a sharpness kick) but if the 600mm holds up really well at say f/7.1 (even better if wide open) then that could be convincing enough for me to side step.

So to relate it back to what I was saying with the Tamron; it's good for the price but in the end (Obi Wan voice) is not the native 600mm lens I was looking for.

Gotcha. When birding (which is why I have such a lens) I keep the Tamron at f/8 with the shutter between 640 and 1000 and auto ISO limited to 3200. That 2/3-stop makes a great difference in IQ. I am happy with it set like this (though I am hoping for some improvement in high-ISO IQ with the 7D replacement). Like another poster here, I spend my time tromping through the brush looking for birds, and the additional weight of the Sigma (if accurately reported) would be a deal-breaker. I sure do understand that for some it would not be so.
 
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Lee Jay said:
AlanF said:
The 100-400 + 2 x 1.4TCs doesn't look any better than the SX50, which costs less than 2 TCs

I hope you were kidding. Your SX50 shot is noisy, over-sharpened, full of halos and artifacts, and full of CA. Make sure you click on my shot to see it at full size.

Oops, I uploaded a version I was playing around with to increase contrast and vibrance. Here is the original, and one from the same night using the 300mm/2.8 + 2xTC on 5DIII for comparison (SX50 above, both through 1 round of DxO + 0.9 USM at 100%).
 

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Azathoth said:
East Wind Photography said:
Wow! Really F6.3 being marketed as a sports lens? Maybe on the planet Venus. Rarely is F6.3 enough to stop sports action.

Rarely? I shoot surf at f8.

With what lens, though? Remember, lenses AF at max aperture. AF at f/6.3 is very slow. Even f/8 AF with a body that supports it is rather slow. Compared to AF at f/5.6, which is ok, or f/4 and f/2.8, which is wicked fast.

You may shoot at f/11 or f/16 for your sports...it doesn't really matter, though...as AF is always performed wide open. When it comes to Canon bodies, their AF points offer different capabilities at different apertures. By f/5.6, most Canon AF units only support basic line AF. At f/4 you get full cross type for many points, but the high precision double cross type points require f/2.8.
 
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jrista said:
Azathoth said:
East Wind Photography said:
Wow! Really F6.3 being marketed as a sports lens? Maybe on the planet Venus. Rarely is F6.3 enough to stop sports action.

Rarely? I shoot surf at f8.

With what lens, though? Remember, lenses AF at max aperture. AF at f/6.3 is very slow. Even f/8 AF with a body that supports it is rather slow. Compared to AF at f/5.6, which is ok, or f/4 and f/2.8, which is wicked fast.

You may shoot at f/11 or f/16 for your sports...it doesn't really matter, though...as AF is always performed wide open. When it comes to Canon bodies, their AF points offer different capabilities at different apertures. By f/5.6, most Canon AF units only support basic line AF. At f/4 you get full cross type for many points, but the high precision double cross type points require f/2.8.

He's talking about stopping motion, by which I assume he means exposure time, not AF.
 
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3kramd5 said:
jrista said:
Azathoth said:
East Wind Photography said:
Wow! Really F6.3 being marketed as a sports lens? Maybe on the planet Venus. Rarely is F6.3 enough to stop sports action.

Rarely? I shoot surf at f8.

With what lens, though? Remember, lenses AF at max aperture. AF at f/6.3 is very slow. Even f/8 AF with a body that supports it is rather slow. Compared to AF at f/5.6, which is ok, or f/4 and f/2.8, which is wicked fast.

You may shoot at f/11 or f/16 for your sports...it doesn't really matter, though...as AF is always performed wide open. When it comes to Canon bodies, their AF points offer different capabilities at different apertures. By f/5.6, most Canon AF units only support basic line AF. At f/4 you get full cross type for many points, but the high precision double cross type points require f/2.8.

He's talking about stopping motion, by which I assume he means exposure time, not AF.

Sure...but it doesn't matter if he stops motion when the subject isn't in focus. That's the difference, for sports, between an f/6.3 max aperture lens and an f/4 or f/2.8 max aperture lens. The f/6.3 is going to be forced to focus more slowly, and the hit rate is going to be lower. You'll get the minimal capabilities out of each AF point, which is usually either just horizontal or vertical phase detection, if that. You are also going to lose the ability to use a lot of AF points.

An f/4 lens will be able to use all AF points, and many of them will be single-cross-type. An f/2.8 lens is going to be able to use all AF points, and use them all in their most precise mode. With a 5D III or 1D X, you get full use of the center five points at f/2.8.

Slow AF can be a sports or action photography killer. I've been shooting at 1200mm f/8 more often these days for birds...but that's effectively killed off my ability to do BIF...I simply cannot focus on birds in flight anymore...the lens just hunts and even if the bird is dead on the center point, it usually cannot lock. That is in stark contrast to f/4, where lock is almost guaranteed.
 
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jrista said:
Slow AF can be a sports or action photography killer. I've been shooting at 1200mm f/8 more often these days for birds...but that's effectively killed off my ability to do BIF...I simply cannot focus on birds in flight anymore...the lens just hunts and even if the bird is dead on the center point, it usually cannot lock. That is in stark contrast to f/4, where lock is almost guaranteed.

I shoot 200+mph R/C airplanes with an f/5.6 lens (with a 2x TC) all the time, and it will track them.
 
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jrista said:
Slow AF can be a sports or action photography killer. I've been shooting at 1200mm f/8 more often these days for birds...but that's effectively killed off my ability to do BIF...I simply cannot focus on birds in flight anymore...the lens just hunts and even if the bird is dead on the center point, it usually cannot lock. That is in stark contrast to f/4, where lock is almost guaranteed.

Well, a 2x tc slows AF considerably on its own, by 50% iirc. Add that to f8 center point only and, yeah, BIF is gonna be tough. A native 5.6 or even 6.3 will probably be much more successful.
 
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9VIII said:
The image Lee Jay posted is significantly better than either of those, just look at the clarity on the ridges.

Not that I could do any better, but the stacked TC's seem to do pretty well.

You have missed jrista's post - the clarity etc depends dramatically on conditions so you can't compare from one day to the next or from different locations. I posted these because they can be compared as they were taken at the same time. I also did one with the 100-400mm L on the 5DIII but without TCs. Here it is. If they were done in a less misty atmosphere they would be better.
 

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Steve said:
jrista said:
Slow AF can be a sports or action photography killer. I've been shooting at 1200mm f/8 more often these days for birds...but that's effectively killed off my ability to do BIF...I simply cannot focus on birds in flight anymore...the lens just hunts and even if the bird is dead on the center point, it usually cannot lock. That is in stark contrast to f/4, where lock is almost guaranteed.

Well, a 2x tc slows AF considerably on its own, by 50% iirc. Add that to f8 center point only and, yeah, BIF is gonna be tough. A native 5.6 or even 6.3 will probably be much more successful.

A native 5.6 is a bit more successful, although still limited (line points only, no cross types). At f/6.3, it's a tossup whether your body will AF successfully with it or not. Something like the 5D III/1D X are going to have more luck than a 7D or 70D, the latter may not lock at all, and if they do, they are not guaranteed to actually have the best focus.

True "sports" lenses have native apertures of f/4 or faster, and maybe f/5.6 with a TC (i.e. the 200-400).
 
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jrista said:
A native 5.6 is a bit more successful, although still limited (line points only, no cross types). At f/6.3, it's a tossup whether your body will AF successfully with it or not. Something like the 5D III/1D X are going to have more luck than a 7D or 70D, the latter may not lock at all, and if they do, they are not guaranteed to actually have the best focus.

True "sports" lenses have native apertures of f/4 or faster, and maybe f/5.6 with a TC (i.e. the 200-400).

Yeah, I don't know. You're comparing your experience with a 2x TC at f8 with native apertures. My 300 2.8 with 2x TC is slower focusing than my 300-800 5.6 even though they are the same effective aperture. I don't have a Tammy but I've not seen anyone who's reviewed it saying that it has difficulty focusing on any camera body or that it limits the number of focus points. I mean apart from the FUD types who think any non-Canon/Nikon lens is worthless garbage, that is. Ideally, yeah, you'd want to shoot sports with the largest aperture possible but a lot of newspaper types shoot with 70-300 non-L variable aperture lenses and get printable shots.
 
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Steve said:
My 300 2.8 with 2x TC is slower focusing than my 300-800 5.6 even though they are the same effective aperture.
If memory serves, that's because Canon has opted to reduce AF speed when a 2X teleconverter (at least the latest Mark III version) is attached.

jrista's posts are right on the money here - I do a lot of shooting with the 120-300 f/2.8 at f/5.6-6.3 but the teleconverter makes quick subject acquisition a problem. I do like the idea of having f/2.8 available, but it's rare that I even carry along the teleconverter lens caps, let alone have something I'd opt to shoot at f/2.8. Maybe someday, but I'm leaning towards selling this major component of my gear (the 7D, the TC and the 120-300) and moving up to a 7D Mark II (whenever that appears, that is) might be the better move.

I like the 120-300, but it's a specialized lens and those of us using it for birds (let alone flying birds) are really asking it to do something it wasn't designed for, and which it isn't capable.
 
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Steve said:
jrista said:
A native 5.6 is a bit more successful, although still limited (line points only, no cross types). At f/6.3, it's a tossup whether your body will AF successfully with it or not. Something like the 5D III/1D X are going to have more luck than a 7D or 70D, the latter may not lock at all, and if they do, they are not guaranteed to actually have the best focus.

True "sports" lenses have native apertures of f/4 or faster, and maybe f/5.6 with a TC (i.e. the 200-400).

Yeah, I don't know. You're comparing your experience with a 2x TC at f8 with native apertures. My 300 2.8 with 2x TC is slower focusing than my 300-800 5.6 even though they are the same effective aperture. I don't have a Tammy but I've not seen anyone who's reviewed it saying that it has difficulty focusing on any camera body or that it limits the number of focus points. I mean apart from the FUD types who think any non-Canon/Nikon lens is worthless garbage, that is. Ideally, yeah, you'd want to shoot sports with the largest aperture possible but a lot of newspaper types shoot with 70-300 non-L variable aperture lenses and get printable shots.

I spent some good time with the EF 300 f/2.8 L II (I rented it twice...once on StackExchange's dime, as I won a contest, and once myself). I used it at 300/2.8, 420/4, and 600/5.6. On my 7D and on a rented 5D III. Even on the 7D, that puppy locked focus fast enough to get a lock on a BIF at 600/5.6. It wasn't particularly fast, and the lock was sometimes not solid (the bird might not actually be fully in focus at first, then clean up a few frames in...that was one of the 7D's long-standing problems). On the 5D III, focus lock was not really an issue at 600/5.6, but again, not super fast. It was wicked fast at 420 and 300...absolutely no issues, and tracking is extremely precise...precise and consistent to a degree I've never seen at f/5.6 on any lens. That's the key difference...the added capabilities of Canon's AF points at f/4 and f/2.8. At f/5.6, you lose those extra capabilities, which give you increased accuracy and precision.

I'm curious what 300 f/2.8 you were using. The original, or the Mark II? Or even a different brand? (Different brands are a different story...they don't necessarily communicate right with the camera, so you might get different results...for example, my Kenko 1.4x TC lies to the camera, makes it think it's faster than it is...the camera tries to focus faster...but it's precision and accuracy drop.) The Mark II superteles have advanced AF firmware. That firmware works well with the 7D, but exceptionally well with the 5D III. Roger from LensRentals has some good articles on how and why and what the differences are.

I'm not against third party lenses. I believe there are certain risks you take when you use them, and they are usually not compatible with Canon's full SDK, but they can be definite money savers, and they can often get the job don well. That's beside the point, though. You don't generally call an f/6.3 lens a "Sport" lens. Sports professionals look for f/4 and faster because it's not just the AF unit and firmware in the camera that gets the job done. At least in Canon systems, the lenses also have AF firmware, and the two work in concert to determine what capabilities of the AF points can be utilized, and faster lenses can be significantly faster, more precise/accurate, and more consistent in how and where and when they focus or track than lenses that are f/5.6 and slower. You also gain the ability to use more focus points, and more of them as cross type or double cross type, at faster apertures.

That's something reviewers often seem to either ignore, or they simply don't know about. I've seen reviewers using f/5.6 lenses, then complain about the 1D X AF system's performance. Well duh! :P Of course it isn't going to perform as well, your using single-line AF points. To really fully and properly test out the 61pt AF system, you need to use fast glass. The differences are quite significant, and its at those apertures that Canon's whole system REALLY shines.
 
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f/6.3 zooms have been around for ages from Sigma; they know what they're doin'.
Whilst it doesn't defy the laws of physics when light starts to drop off, I don't think there'll be any issues in general.

But like mentioned above the 2x TC slows things down and it is more than just because of the aperture. A native 600mm should be sharper and AF faster since it's not hobbled by a TC.
 
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jrista said:
I'm curious what 300 f/2.8 you were using. The original, or the Mark II?

Canon 300mm f2.8 non-IS and Canon 2x TC mark II. I can't really complain about the AF on my 1DIV, to be honest, just that with the TC its not as fast as the native 5.6 of my Sig 300-800. Without the TC, or even with the 1.4, the original 300 2.8 is blazing fast. Its hard to imagine a 300 2.8 IS II being even quicker although I know it is.

Edwin Herdman said:
If memory serves, that's because Canon has opted to reduce AF speed when a 2X teleconverter (at least the latest Mark III version) is attached.

That's exactly true. Canon reps have said they slow the AF by 50%/75% for the 1.4/2x, respectively. It's readily apparent why they did that if you tape off the contacts and try to use it. The AF bounces back and forth because it can't find a lock.
 
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Steve said:
jrista said:
I'm curious what 300 f/2.8 you were using. The original, or the Mark II?

Canon 300mm f2.8 non-IS and Canon 2x TC mark II. I can't really complain about the AF on my 1DIV, to be honest, just that with the TC its not as fast as the native 5.6 of my Sig 300-800. Without the TC, or even with the 1.4, the original 300 2.8 is blazing fast. Its hard to imagine a 300 2.8 IS II being even quicker although I know it is.

I'd be willing to bet that the Sigma is kind of faking out the camera firmware similar to how my Kenko TC does. That's probably how they are achieving the faster AF. In some ways, Canon's AF speed throttling is artificial. It does have it's benefits, though, as it tends to guarantee a good lock more often than if they tried to focus faster. The PDAF line sensors used for the lower light stuff are not as precise. The pixels of each line are larger...to make them more sensitive. But being larger, you cannot divide them as finely, so phase detection is coarser. By throttling, Canon gives the firmware more time to accurately evaluate the information coming in from the AF unit as they more slowly shift focus. They could just try to make one single AF move to lock focus, but with the coarser phase detection, that one move wouldn't always produce the best focus.
 
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