[Solved] Lenses for a 3-5 day hike

Re: Lenses for a 3-5 day hike

Julie

I completed a 4 day 3 night backpacking trip to the Grand Gulch in Utah about a month ago and I would take weight minimization seriously. On my trip, photography was secondary to weight and sticking with the group, so I brought my wife’s SL1 and a Canon 10-22mm for wide angle shots. (The advice on not exposing to the right would have helped many of my shots so this is good advice, if a bit late for me) If photography was more important on this trip, I would have taken the 5Diii and either the 16-35mm f/4l or made panos with the shorty forty. If lowering your pack weight is a major consideration, you may want to follow Sporgon’s other posts on the use of the 40mm for panos and look at his website to see the great results he has achieved.

For rain, you might want to consider having a low weight inexpensive silnylon waterproof dry bag in your pack to put your gear in if it rains or if you find yourself having to cross a stream with a potential that you could go for a swim.

If you have the BlackRapid system you might want to consider a backpack strap which allows you to attach camera straps to your backpack straps. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1081010-REG/blackrapid_ras1c_1a0_backpack_strap.html I used the Op/tech system as I am a cheap bastard http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/485766-REG/OP_TECH_USA_1301652_System_Connectors_Reporter_Backpack_Set_of.html

The backpack strap worked well for me, but you might want to make sure that it does not drive you nuts as the camera can bounce around depending on your gait and the terrain. (they make other straps to minimize this, but I have never used them) I know that others may view lens cap retention or keeper strings as the true sign of a novice, but when backpacking they really come in handy for me especially when using the backpack straps. I finally bought them after losing two caps on one other backpacking trip.

Have a great trip.

Lloyd
 
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msm

Jun 8, 2013
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Re: Lenses for a 3-5 day hike

Regarding wide angles and mountains. Yes they can make the mountain seem small if you use it from a distance. Personally I prefer wide angles when I am close to the mountain, on the mountain or in narrow valleys.

When used on the mountains or on narrow ridges, then in my opinion they can make the mountain look more spectacular than less wide lenses where you only get a small part of the view. Here is an example taken at 16mm with the 16-35 from Romsdalseggen, a popular ridge walk in Norway.
 

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Re: Lenses for a 3-5 day hike

Sporgon said:
Maximilian59 said:
For photographing: Avoid exposure to the right if ever possible. Go -1EV. Do some tests now and compare afterwords in lightroom or whatever you use. Bringing the bright sky down is in the most times worse than bringing shadows up and reducing noise. Get familiar with the built in HDR of your camera. It gives you a more or les good jpeg, but the trhee raws are still on your card. It is quicker than in usage as the bracketing function. Put it on your personel menu.
For your trip: Good weather and good light.
Maximilian
At long last ! Someone else who recognises that 'ETTR' can be downright damaging.

I don't fully understand how ETTR - when done properly - could be a bad thing.

As I understand ETTR it means pushing the histogram to the right as far as possible _without_ clipping the highlights (even specular ones). That said it should be clear that simply looking at the histogram could be misleading.

Oliver
 
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mnclayshooter

I love shooting - clay pigeons and photos!
Oct 28, 2013
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Minnesota, USA
Re: Lenses for a 3-5 day hike

msm said:
Regarding wide angles and mountains. Yes they can make the mountain seem small if you use it from a distance. Personally I prefer wide angles when I am close to the mountain, on the mountain or in narrow valleys.

When used on the mountains or on narrow ridges, then in my opinion they can make the mountain look more spectacular than less wide lenses where you only get a small part of the view. Here is an example taken at 16mm with the 16-35 from Romsdalseggen, a popular ridge walk in Norway.

This is definitely a case for the wide angle. Nice shot.
 
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Sporgon

5% of gear used 95% of the time
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Nov 11, 2012
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Re: Lenses for a 3-5 day hike

bedford said:
Sporgon said:
Maximilian59 said:
For photographing: Avoid exposure to the right if ever possible. Go -1EV. Do some tests now and compare afterwords in lightroom or whatever you use. Bringing the bright sky down is in the most times worse than bringing shadows up and reducing noise. Get familiar with the built in HDR of your camera. It gives you a more or les good jpeg, but the trhee raws are still on your card. It is quicker than in usage as the bracketing function. Put it on your personel menu.
For your trip: Good weather and good light.
Maximilian
At long last ! Someone else who recognises that 'ETTR' can be downright damaging.

I don't fully understand how ETTR - when done properly - could be a bad thing.

As I understand ETTR it means pushing the histogram to the right as far as possible _without_ clipping the highlights (even specular ones). That said it should be clear that simply looking at the histogram could be misleading.

Oliver

It's to do with saturation and tone, specifically blue. I don't quite understand for sure why blue is sensitive to this. Certainly blue is the highest frequency wave length and has the most energy but I don't know if this is the reason. Overexposed blue and you won't get it back to its original tone and saturation again. This is important in landscape because the sky often has much blue in it, and is at the brighter end of the EV range to start with.

There have been some truly dreadful articles about the 'benefits' of ETTR posted on the internet over the last ten years.
 
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AJ

Sep 11, 2010
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Re: Lenses for a 3-5 day hike

Julie G. said:
Just to sum up:

[list type=decimal]
[*]Tripod: Any suggestion below 500 usd?
[*]Lens: Upon reviewing by budget I know I can't afford the 16-35, but a used 17-40 might do.
[*]Filter: CP + adapter.
[*]Tripod mount for the 70-200 if cheap
[*]Total of 3 batteries and 3 16 GB memory cards
[*]I'm shooting landscapes (mountains, nature), night and day. No wildlife or ocean.
[/list]

1. I often backpack with a cheap drugstore tripod. They are flimsy, made of light aluminum, but it'll do. The 90% solution.
2. 17-40/4 is a nice lens. There are plenty of used ones about nowadays as people are upgrading to 16-35/4 IS.
3. Just be careful with the CP at wide angles. It produces weird effects.
4 and 5. Sounds good to me.
 
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Re: Lenses for a 3-5 day hike

Hi,

I have been to Jotunheimen more times than i remember (I collect 2K peaks). I would definatly leave the 35mm at home, but that is my kind of photography.

Depending on what I do my minimum kit during summer (full frame):
-Canon 16-35 f/4
-A 24-70 or a 24-120 ( I use sony and Nikon not so much canon anymore)

I also sometimes carry a 70-300 zoom, but it sees little usage, but especially in Hurrungane (Fannaråkken), Dyrhaugsryggen and in the more pointy area you can get some really nice shots with a long zoom.

For filters I usually carry:
-77m polarizer
-2 77mm ND filters
-3 GND filters


i don´t do any super long exposure so I just handhold the gnd.

My most used tripod is http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Professional-Sirui-T2205X-with-G20-Ballhead-Carbon-Tripod-5-Section-49in-Height-26-5lb-Load/748037191.html

(they ship to norway, no extra tax or vat)


Espen
www.mintur-foto.no
 
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Feb 28, 2013
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Re: Lenses for a 3-5 day hike

I guess I will swim against the tide I too did a Lee Filters workshop in Wales with Jeremy Walker in Snowdonia National Park I took my 70-200mm at the time my 17-40mm and the 100mm Macro but the hero lens was the 24-105mm I shot with it 90% of the time and did some shots with the 100mm.
You need a good carbon fibre tripod and the best head you can afford I use the Manfrotto 55xPro and the Arca Swiss Z1. I use the Lee Filter system with Landscape Polarizer, H/E ND grads, Big Stopper / Little Stopper and in fall use an 81A.
 
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Mar 25, 2011
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Re: Lenses for a 3-5 day hike

Sporgon said:
Julie G. said:
I've never liked wide angles, mostly because I suck at composing with them for the reasons you've stated. Maybe using the lenses I already have will be enough, and using a tripod to take panoramas instead of just using a wide angle?

You don't need a tripod to take panoramas, in fact you can argue it's quite the opposite: you need a tripod for wide angle, single frame shots. The reason for this is that when using a wide angle on a small format camera for landscape much of the detail is far away and your wide angle focal length is making it smaller still, so the most microscopic movement reduces resolution. Of course this is even worse on a crop camera.

With a panoramic you are using a longer focal length lens in portrait to get the equivalent vertical framing, so you have more magnification, and you're joining more frames horizontally so you're making a larger format that needs less enlargement, which is less enlargement of errors.

Don Haines said:
Yes for the CP filter....

I should mention polarising filters are a disaster on Panoramics. About the only disadvantage of doing them.

Maximilian59 said:
For photographing: Avoid exposure to the right if ever possible. Go -1EV. Do some tests now and compare afterwords in lightroom or whatever you use. Bringing the bright sky down is in the most times worse than bringing shadows up and reducing noise. Get familiar with the built in HDR of your camera. It gives you a more or les good jpeg, but the trhee raws are still on your card. It is quicker than in usage as the bracketing function. Put it on your personel menu.
For your trip: Good weather and good light.
Maximilian
At long last ! Someone else who recognises that 'ETTR' can be downright damaging.

I've become interested in wider angle scenes, and have only tried a few handheld panoramic shots. Even with no experience, I can see that I get better images than with a wide lens.

ETTR works fine when used under the right conditions, but I normally just try for a correct exposure. Blowing out a image is a total disaster.
 
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Re: Lenses for a 3-5 day hike

I've been checking some prices on renting a 16-35 (F2.8L II) and for 5 days it will cost me 2/3 of a used 17-40, so that solves that dilemma.

I'm usually a minimalist (or far as one can be when having a 5D3) when it comes to my photography gear. 90% of the time I'm using only one lens, either it's a 35mm or a 85mm. I'm not leaving my S35 at home, but I'm probably gonna get the 17-40 too (the alternative would be a cheap 24mm).

This is a shot of Oslo from my Sigma 35 Art:
the_fog_setting_over_oslo_by_julie_gunstensen-d8hfltt.jpg



And this is one from my Canon 70-200 F4L IS:
forest_in_sunset_by_julie_gunstensen-d8hfm2x.jpg
 
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Re: Lenses for a 3-5 day hike

Q1: Is a 40 mm ball head good for my Canon 70-200 F4L IS? Or should it be bigger? I have no plans of getting anything heavier than the Canon 70-200 F2.8L IS II.
Q2: Any experiences with PhotoClam ball heads?
Q3: I've heard good things about RRS ball heads, but which size would be good for me? BH-30, 40 or 55?
Q4: What about Feisol Classic series for tripod legs (given that I want to do some night photography)?

EDIT: I just got an email from someone selling "Photo Clam PTC-424 tripod" + "RRS BH-55 LR ball head" for 50% off, I think I might go for that..
 
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Re: Lenses for a 3-5 day hike

mnclayshooter said:
Julie G. said:
Extra memory card and battery (1 extra?) + a tripod

I'd bring at least one more memory card, depending on the size and your shooting style... Can't hurt - they're small and relatively cheap compared to airfare to get to that destination again in the event that one card isn't enough for the shots you'll take and the potential to lose/damage one somehow... pretty unlikely, but hey, they're small right? I filled 3 32GB cards in the Rocky Mountains last year from landscapes to elk to ground squirrels... Maybe you're more restrained. I can't help it... I like taking photos.

In addition to extra memory cards, the 5D III has dual card slots. Bring a couple 32 or 64 GB SD cards (if you use CF typically), or vice versa, and save photos on both cards simultaneously. Just in case... it's nice to have a backup if one of the primary cards goes bad.
 
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Re: Lenses for a 3-5 day hike

Hey Julie G! I too enjoy hiking in the norwegian mountains. Mostly out west and up north though.

My main consideration is weight. Lighter pack equals less physically exhaustion equals more enjoyment and more ground covered. This makes for better pictures in my opinion. I like the site http://lighterpack.com/ with regards to weight management.

If you are going "hut to hut" then weight should be easily manageable. If you plan to carry a tent and a sleep
system as well as all that camera gear then those kilos add up quickly. If you take care then a sub 10 kilo pack (including camera gear, excluding consumables) should be possible,- light enough to be comfortable even for several days.

My most used lens is the 16-35 f/4 IS L. I'm usually a prime lens guy but I really appreciate the flexibility of this highly usable zoom range when I'm out and about above the tree line. I use screw in filters (CPL and 10 stop ND) and bracket instead of opting for a heavier more cumbersome square filter system. It does work if you are willing to manually blend exposures back home, but I do miss adjustable graduated ND filters sometimes.

As for carrying the camera itself, I put it in a Lowepro Toploader Zoom 50 AW bag (6D + L-plate + 16-35 f/4 fits with absolutely no room to spare) and either toss it in the backpack or clip it onto the chest harness. Black Diamond has some cheap lightweight plastic carabiners that are very useful for everything but climbing.

As for Feisol, i tried their CB-50DC ball head for a day but their safety mechanism on the clamp was not fully compatible with my Kirk plate. I mean it was, but it did not work very smoothly. The head was nice though, and their "normal" heads should be even smoother than the 50DC. I opted for Induro instead, which has served me very well. A friend of mine has a Sirui setup which feels just as nice as my Induro setup. Feisol should be in the same ball park. I never had the pleasure of using RRS gear, as it was too hard to get a hold of. My next tripod will be without a central column, as I never use it. I had a Benro "travel angel" CF before and it was not as nice as the Induro, not even close. I hear it's the same manufacturer though, so there is that.

Anyway - best of luck to you! I hope the weather is on your side and that you have a nice trip :)
 
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Re: Lenses for a 3-5 day hike

Julie G. said:
I've been checking some prices on renting a 16-35 (F2.8L II) and for 5 days it will cost me 2/3 of a used 17-40, so that solves that dilemma.

If rental rate are that high, going for the 17-40 is an easy call. Its a nice lens stepped down.

Beautiful pictures! I certainly would like to visit Norway and the rest of Scandinavia at some point.
 
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Re: Lenses for a 3-5 day hike

Julie G. said:
Q1: Is a 40 mm ball head good for my Canon 70-200 F4L IS? Or should it be bigger? I have no plans of getting anything heavier than the Canon 70-200 F2.8L IS II.

Depends on the Ball Head! I have used very large (and extremely expensive) ball heads that I wouldn't use with a Canon 1 series camera and a 24-105 yet I have a silly little Triopo RS3 (+ Arca clamp) that isn't upset by my Canon 800mm F5.6 L IS and it's only a 36mm ball.
Size isn't important (where have I heard that before?) is is down to the lockup and rigidity of the head - in my experience price is no guide.
Much as I like my RS3 head it is not for everybody (and you have to retrofit a clamp) so I would suggest you have a look at the Situi K30x and, maybe, the K20x. I have the K40x and whilst it is great it is simply overkill (and a bit heavy) for what you need.
 
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Re: Lenses for a 3-5 day hike

Julie G. said:
Q1: Is a 40 mm ball head good for my Canon 70-200 F4L IS? Or should it be bigger? I have no plans of getting anything heavier than the Canon 70-200 F2.8L IS II.
Q2: Any experiences with PhotoClam ball heads?
Q3: I've heard good things about RRS ball heads, but which size would be good for me? BH-30, 40 or 55?
Q4: What about Feisol Classic series for tripod legs (given that I want to do some night photography)?

EDIT: I just got an email from someone selling "Photo Clam PTC-424 tripod" + "RRS BH-55 LR ball head" for 50% off, I think I might go for that..

I have a RRS BH-55 on 24L legs, and it's worked fine. The BH-40 would also work well and is more often mated with the 2x series, but I got a good price on the used BH-55. I've used the combination with the 70-200 f/2.8 IS II with a 2x without a problem.
 
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Julie G. said:
Hi,

I am planing on taking a trip to Jotunheimen, Norway in August, might be going alone too, and I am considering what gear to bring/buy.

I have:
Canon 5D Mark III with a Black Rapid Strap
Sigma 35mm Art
Canon 70-200 F4L IS
NiftyFifty
Extra memory card and battery (1 extra?) + a tripod

Anyone have any experience with using the Sigma 35mm Art for mountain landscapes? I love the lens, but is it wide enough? I'm entertaining the idea of getting a wider lens (wide angle or fisheye), not too expensive though. I might get a CP filter too. Any other things that's worth considering?

Julie

Breezing through the thread-

Yes, learn how to do a handheld (or tripod based) portrait orientation panorama. You need to keep the exposure the same in the individual images and keep from refocusing the lens (back-button focus or put the lens in manual mode). The tripod will need to be leveled and you will need a panning base feature as part of the tripod or ballhead.

You can use any focal length. "Landscape" does not necessarily mean "14mm" or "16mm" or "24mm". You may find that a multi-image stitch at say ~35mm or 50mm looks more natural than a single shot at 17mm. Of course, if the scene is distant enough, handheld at 200mm+ could also work for a image stitch.

You may want more than one extra battery. Those are light enough and cheap enough. Same with cards.

I have used a Benro C2970T tripod and it would likely work fine for your listed gear. As a kit, the ballhead that it comes with is also suitable but I found that a Sirui K40 was much better.

CP filter and any required step-up rings- yes.

An extension tube and/or something like a 500D close-up lens may be useful for closer/smaller subjects along the way.

I am beginning to find that making a custom white balance makes more than a trivial difference in photos. You may want to look into something like "Clear White" from here: http://www.digitalphotographykits.com/ or find something else that is similar or works for you.
 
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