Straight Photos with SLR camera

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I am not very experienced in photography yet. I am doing lots of practice on my camera to improve my skills. Yet I have a problem that many of my photos do not come out straight. After I shoot them I have to straighten it in Photoshop (which is very time consuming). I never had this problem with my point and shoot camera, it only happens with my digital SLR. Any suggestions??
 
You should take a picture of yourself taking a picture in a mirror. You probably are not used to the weight of a DSLR... that or your holding it incorrectly.

Most right handed people have the left hand cupped under the lens and the right hand on body itself. If you are trying to hold the body with both hands (one on each side) then there's no telling how it will come out and it's just plain weird.
 
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neuroanatomist said:
The 60D and 7D have an electronic level which can be displayed in the viewfinder or on the rear LCD in Live View. There are also hot shoe-mounted bubble levels (e.g. this one). The hot shoe solution is good for tripod use, not so much for handheld.

Well, here's a new innovation by hakuba making the bubble level even more compact and portable:

http://dc.watch.impress.co.jp/docs/news/20110802_464688.html

Looks like it's even small enough for a DC.
 
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Probably everybody at least some of the time, do that.
When focused on the scene, and really excited about getting the best of the perfect moment, it is really hard to think about the straight horizon line.
Usually just intuitive adjustment, that of course to many times is influenced by all sort of optical illusions, our own position, other existing lines, like slanted line of the hills, curvy edge of the lake, perspective lines and even visually "heavy" objects in various positions etc.
Unless working with tripod, this is something that we should learn to live with, and just adjust later in PS.
 
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Yeah, the AF points are a good trick.

One problem with relying on a level - either the built-in electronic one or one in the hot shoe - is that it's based on the pull of gravity, not on the scene. You have no guarantee that the framing in the scene will look best when you're horizon level, rather than having the elements level. Sometimes it's best to skew the horizon intentionally when there is one single element that you want to highlight.

I'd still like an electronic level as seen in the 7D, but I'd likely find it useful only when shooting architecture (though I would be concerned, once again, that using it to straighten out verticals with a shifted TS-E might not be as accurate as I need).
 
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