The Canon EOS R5 Mark II coming in Q2, 2023? [CR2]

Hope R5 MKII has a usable "pre-capture" for stills as the R7 for birders. It needs to be usable in the field, without having to access in the menu. Make it accessible by a programmable button on the body.

Put a manual switch on body for less expensive primes that do not have that switch on the barrel.

Switching from stills to video switch not needed, with programmable multifunction button. Switches instantly.
Congratulations for your 1st post after lurking since last April ;-)
 
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2. even with AF set with people, and also back bottom focus enable, when I try to follow a person in the street or a car, or move the cursor from the back bottom and try tom refocus, maybe 20 percent of my images are out of focus. Can you reccomend a solid YouTube video for perfect in focus tutorial? There are too many and probably watch too many it makes my mind a bit messy and sadly around me few few people use an R5.
No AF is perfect but 20% out of focus seems too high unless the subjects are moving very fast or if the subject is very dark.

I use the Set button to reset the AF point to the centre. Use this to acquire your primary focus and then the eye-AF should stick to the subject as you recompose.
I don't use it but I am aware of "Dual back button focus" which can switch AF modes. People photographing birds use this method as far as I know.
Try different AF tracking modes if the AF is distracted by other subjects. Servo AF Case 2 "Continue to track subjects ignoring possible obstacles" is better than the default Case

Other sources of lack of focus are from movement from the subject being higher than the shutter speed or from the body/lens that is greater than the IBIS/lens stability can handle.
In this case, use shutter priority mode or manual (fixed shutter speed/aperture) with auto ISO.
 
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snappy604

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Jan 25, 2017
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Price varies country to country. So best to ask Canon service center itself. Odds are the cost would be a fraction of a broken R5.

I do not own any RF body and the last EF body I owned is a 2015 EOS 5Ds R so I can only tell you that I'd use

- [One-Shot AF] for Still Subjects
- [AI Servo AF] for Moving Subjects

Settings below is to freeze person's motion and reduce motion blur.
If I could hazard a guess #1 is your problem. I'd set it for Tv at 1/1000 then set ISO to AutoISO.

I'd position the AF point(s), press and hold AF-ON button on the person you want to photograph and press the shutter button when you want to photograph them.

BTW are you certain you want to buy a 2nd R5 body? If I was in your position I'd spend more time mastering what you have now than to add to your load.

A lot of photogs want to be macho or think they are smarter than the camera they bought but the semi-manual or Program mode is pretty good considering these bodies goes for >$3900. You bought that camera with that tech! Increase its utilization!

The camera shop you bought your camera from may have someone who knows how to use it... ? Might be helpful if you ask them directly.

Thanks Dolina and Del Paso once again for your amazing support.

OK, I will ask the R5 dealer to send his camera to get an official camera checkup by Canon (you know roughly how much it would cost?).
About eye-controlled AF indeed that would be a perfect match for me, but maybe that camera will cost too much compared to the current R5 and so in conclusion I will not need a Mark II camera.

Question, and I know what you said, among all 1000+ of video tutorials for R5 perfect AF, which one you would reccomand, specifically for street, documentary and moving objects (in principle no birds, no sport), just causal travel images taken during my tourist tours around the globe....? I need something very simple and effective.

Currently I have set My R5 as follow:
1. Manual mode
2. AF on the lens ON (unless I shoot on a very dark scene and I need manual focus or focus pecking)
3. Stabilized on the lens Active (unless I use a tripod)
4-. Method of AF: people + following
5. AF Servo Case 1
6. NON continuous AF
7. Subject to detect: people
8. Eye track ON

When I shoot I normally have the AF target in the center. If I press with the shutter Botton in front, it will focus and then fire up. If I want to move the target focus to the left for example, I use the rear bottom and then the rear back focus. But something I do wrong with this process as too many images get out of focus (I normally shoot at 1/60 sec or above with the 15-35 or 24-70 RF lenses).

I hope you can help me to find a simple and concrete YouTube tutorial. Appreciated.

Sounds similar, but subtly different than my settings.

probably not same use case as I.. but I do take a LOT of band shots with heavy motion in low light .. .and take pics of my kids, also a lot of motion.. I don't think I get those kind of out of focus issues with my R5 (used to with my older canons)

Agree with many comments folks have indicated that shutter speed is important.. more so when dealing with such high megapixels and shallow depth of field. Don't be afraid of Auto ISO and having high ISO, if exposed right many modern denoise algorithms do a good job.

I usually use Manual - put my shutter speed as fast as I can get away with (depends on light but try for 1/400th if I can or higher) depth of field, again depends on lighting.. but ISO leave as AUTO and lock it to a max of 6400 ISO (too noisy beyond)

for the auto focus there were a few odd surprises when I tried things one of the first things to do is turn off continuous AF.. it drains batteries and found it left you with less focused images in long run.

For the Autofocus method for people I use:

AF Operation: SERVO AF
method: :) + Tracking
subject: people
Eye Detection: Enable
Continuous AF: DISABLE
AF assist beam: off
Servo AF (this is important): Case 2
Initial Servo AF pt for: :) [[]]: (this centres people tracking by default...centre still seems best to grab focus and then compose)
IBIS and IS both on
I also have focus set to a Back button and take the image on the main button.. I basically focus with the back button first and keep it pressed and then use the front button to take the images. It allows you to focus and start tracking and compose prior to taking the images.

attaching a sample of what I mean 'motion in low light' ;-) ... R5 with Sigma 20mm ART at 1.8 Aperture.. iso 6400 1/400th

1677299378228.png
 
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koenkooi

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Feb 25, 2015
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The Netherlands
[…]
I usually use Manual - put my shutter speed as fast as I can get away with (depends on light but try for 1/400th if I can or higher) depth of field, again depends on lighting.. but ISO leave as AUTO and lock it to a max of 6400 ISO (too noisy beyond)
[…]
For my use, mostly macro, Topaz Denoise and DxO DeepPrime do a wonderful job at cleaning up high ISO noise.
Both have a 30 day trial so you can see if the results fit into your style and if the hassle is worth it :)
 
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snappy604

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Jan 25, 2017
676
637
For my use, mostly macro, Topaz Denoise and DxO DeepPrime do a wonderful job at cleaning up high ISO noise.
Both have a 30 day trial so you can see if the results fit into your style and if the hassle is worth it :)

I'd used both topaz and dxo in past and they were ok.. at time topaz didn't support CR3 RAW images so had to do conversions and it ended up with odd artifacts.. so I didn't renew it (did pay).. DXO I demo'd and results were decent, but at time very slow. I ended up and in general like On1 Photo Raw but they have piss poor color management for Canon RAW for some reason.. and try as I might, I keep getting inconsistent results on color. But the denoise engine is good.

Macro at 5000 ISO
1677347767940.png

The correct exposure seems to matter more than the ISO level based on my experience. Hard to recover low light if exposed incorrectly, but if exposed correctly seem to recover noise better. I know there are folks here who know better than I on this, but I suspect it has to do with dynamic range and how much can be recovered beyond a certain ISO.
 
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AlanF

Desperately seeking birds
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Aug 16, 2012
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I'd used both topaz and dxo in past and they were ok.. at time topaz didn't support CR3 RAW images so had to do conversions and it ended up with odd artifacts.. so I didn't renew it (did pay).. DXO I demo'd and results were decent, but at time very slow. I ended up and in general like On1 Photo Raw but they have piss poor color management for Canon RAW for some reason.. and try as I might, I keep getting inconsistent results on color. But the denoise engine is good.

Macro at 5000 ISO
View attachment 207715
Topaz works very well on jpegs, and I don't use it on RAW. So, one of its big advantages is that you don't have to upgrade when a new camera comes out - you can use it with DPP4 as the RAW converter to jpeg. DxO PL is very fast on my MacBook Air with an M2 chip. Here is an image at iso 32k: a 100% crop of a Kestrel hovering, top from DxO PL6; bottom further processed with Topaz Denoise.

309A8462-DxO_Kestrel_Hovering_iso32k_gif0.jpg309A8462-DxO_Kestrel_Hovering_iso32k_gif0-denoise-standard.jpg
 
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snappy604

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Jan 25, 2017
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Topaz works very well on jpegs, and I don't use it on RAW. So, one of its big advantages is that you don't have to upgrade when a new camera comes out - you can use it with DPP4 as the RAW converter to jpeg. DxO PL is very fast on my MacBook Air with an M2 chip.
And you get really good results so agree.

yeah I probably just didn't give the workflow enough time/effort. I like editing RAW and should have the ability natively... but yet I find sometimes the in camera jpg is better.. hehe so much for my skills. :-/
 
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Michael Clark

Now we see through a glass, darkly...
Apr 5, 2016
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Hello! Give Case 2 a try. It's better at ignoring things that might come into the frame and block what you're focusing on.

If non-continuous AF (I'm guessing that is a loose English-Italian-English translation of One Shot AF) is selected, the AI Servo use case makes absolutely zero difference, since it's not using AI Servo at all.
 
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Michael Clark

Now we see through a glass, darkly...
Apr 5, 2016
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Thank you for mentioning that. I've been using the excuse that I haven't upgraded to mirrorless because I want to extend my replacement cycle to every decade. That will help flesh out why I have not upgraded yet. lol

When the Apple Watch came out I waited for the Series 4, on year 4, before buying into it for the ECG.

There are rumors of a folding iPhone & Apple headset... I'm staying clear of that for at least that long too

By 2030 implantable Apple headsets will be in their 2nd generation...
 
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Michael Clark

Now we see through a glass, darkly...
Apr 5, 2016
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Put a manual switch on body for less expensive primes that do not have that switch on the barrel.

Pretty much anything that can be mapped to that switch on Big Whites can also be mapped to existing body buttons, can't it?

There aren't that many options for the lens button: AF-OFF, Metering-AF Start, AE lock, switch between One Shot ←→ AI Servo, IS Start, switch to registered AF function, AE Lock (hold), and switch to registered AF Point.

The only one that can't be directly mapped to a body button on most top tier bodies is IS Start. But any body button mapped to AF start also initiates IS when pressed (when using a Canon lens - some third party lenses, such as the Sigma 120-300mm f/2.8 Sports have additional settings accessed via the Sigma USB dock for when IS becomes active).
 
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Michael Clark

Now we see through a glass, darkly...
Apr 5, 2016
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Sounds similar, but subtly different than my settings.

probably not same use case as I.. but I do take a LOT of band shots with heavy motion in low light .. .and take pics of my kids, also a lot of motion.. I don't think I get those kind of out of focus issues with my R5 (used to with my older canons)

Agree with many comments folks have indicated that shutter speed is important.. more so when dealing with such high megapixels and shallow depth of field. Don't be afraid of Auto ISO and having high ISO, if exposed right many modern denoise algorithms do a good job.

I usually use Manual - put my shutter speed as fast as I can get away with (depends on light but try for 1/400th if I can or higher) depth of field, again depends on lighting.. but ISO leave as AUTO and lock it to a max of 6400 ISO (too noisy beyond)

for the auto focus there were a few odd surprises when I tried things one of the first things to do is turn off continuous AF.. it drains batteries and found it left you with less focused images in long run.

For the Autofocus method for people I use:

AF Operation: SERVO AF
method: :) + Tracking
subject: people
Eye Detection: Enable
Continuous AF: DISABLE
AF assist beam: off
Servo AF (this is important): Case 2
Initial Servo AF pt for: :) [[]]: (this centres people tracking by default...centre still seems best to grab focus and then compose)
IBIS and IS both on
I also have focus set to a Back button and take the image on the main button.. I basically focus with the back button first and keep it pressed and then use the front button to take the images. It allows you to focus and start tracking and compose prior to taking the images.

attaching a sample of what I mean 'motion in low light' ;-) ... R5 with Sigma 20mm ART at 1.8 Aperture.. iso 6400 1/400th

View attachment 207709
(The reaction of the guy in the hat on the right makes this one!)

One guy is easy. Try getting four at the same time!

201605211388HR.JPG

(Yeah, it was a theatrically lit outdoor concert at night, but not as bright as it looks. ISO 5000, 1/200, f/4, 35mm, EOS 5D Mark III + EF 24-105mm f/4 L IS. The temporary plywood stage was vibrating like crazy, thus the IS lens instead of a 24-70/2.8.)
 
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Only other thing I’d be looking for (which I hope is a given, given the latest from R7 and R6 II) is no 30m record limit and I think it’ll be the perfect camera!

Interesting about dual CFExpress - for my R5 I bought a CFExpress card but no reader, so I essentially use my SD slot as my ‘main card’ which comes out of the camera and into my card reader for file transfer, and have never taken the CFExpress out of the camera. Guess I’ll need to buy a CFExpress reader if I’m to upgrade!
Why wouldn't you. They download faster.
 
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