I use it a fair bit when called for, admittedly less with modern cameras getting better in such situations but still plenty of times I reach for it. Think of it more as overriding the cameras assumed correct exposure in complex scenes, so here what the camera meter says is correct actually isn't but you still want to be able to use a semi mode for speed. For example getting consistently underexposed images in snow scene but need the speed of a semi mode, dial in EC and carry on shooting in AV/Tv or whatever and the auto exposure can still react correctly to cloud/lighting/shade etc without all images coming out wrong exposure nor slowing you down and maybe missing a shot you can't plan for.
Things like snowscapes or other predictable high key scenes like well lit very white interiors actually tend to be handled well these days by most cameras but I've found a lot of scenes where automation of some type still gets it wrong and EC is just another tool for dealing with it. Along with spot metering and different evaluation modes. Complex scenes with none average tonal balance/weird shaped [compared to average] histograms since most cameras assume the usual mid centric D shape hump and have enough distribution of 15% grey reference to get it right. There are other scene that have a common predictable shape like cameras/phones will usually correctly assume night mode with U shaped bright highlights lots of deep shadow and guess what zone you're likely exposing for. Plenty of odd scenes that are not well served by this average approach though where the camera basically doesn't know what to make of it thus you need to adjust.
The problem is when you have an odd distribution of tonal variation were your subject isn't in the usual zone so you need to skew it. Or have a DR wider than can be captured and you need to choose to clip highlights or underexpose shadows in order to nail the subject exposure the way you want.
Ok interesting.
I pretty much only shoot full manual...I never use the "priority" modes...and I just have my meter to spot at all times.
I admit, ever since I started shooting medium format film too...I pretty much always have a spot meter with me and I'll often use that with my digital cameras even.
But when I don't on digital....I will meter with the camera meter on spot meter for something in the scene with 18% grey if possible, or maybe if it calls for it I'll meter for the highlights and then adjust the exposure based on that.
I've been using Nick Carver's metering method and it seems to work pretty well.....
So anyway, I just set the exposure for the scene, I'd not thought about using the more auto metering methods on the camera, nor the auto exposure modes. It makes sense if you do that.
As others have said too...with mirrorless now....you see what you get through the EVF....which makes thing REALLY easy to set fully manual.
I also of late, make use of the sunny 16 rule....and will set my cameras to that and even pre zone focus before I walk about so often I don't even have to hit auto focus if there's fast action, I just compose and shoot (I use back button focus, so that is de-coupled from the shutter release button).
Anyway, thanks....I'm often into my own world on this and forget about other ways the cameras may be used.
C