Many thanks for sharing. I was tempted by the product, though was one of those somewhat skeptical that Vitec plc (who own Gitzo) needed to crowd-fund., and so had some doubts about it.

By the time I'd decided to go with it anyway, the offers in the UK that were of interest to me were taken up, so I decided if there was no "offer", I may as well wait to see what it looked like once available.

As an aside - and I haven't followed the process and the videos you mentioned about packaging - I'm a little suprised that the earlier packaging caused wear/scuff issues - it doesn't bode well for longevity in the field . My kit goes through some fairly tough work-outs (deserts, jungles, ocean spray, arctic conditions) and other than some TLC around joints and cleaning, has all fared well.

I'll be interested to see any follow-ups you have after a few month's use.

Cheers. Stoical.

Tell us who sold it to you then.

koenkooi said:

Agreed, but the big missing thing, for me, is that DPP4 can't run DLO on CRAWs. Which isn't a problem for L lenses (except the EF17-40L), but the EF and RF f/1.8 lenses benefit greatly from it. Miles ahead of what Lightroom can do for those.

CRAW in crop mode with the electronic shutter saves me a lot of disk space when trying to do DIFs

Click to expand...

And miles behind what DxO PL4 can do!

Bdbtoys said:

Did you accidentally move the Dioptric Adjustment Knob that's right next to the viewfinder (to the right) while attaching the lens?

Click to expand...

Was thinking the same thing. Try checking diopter adjustment by the viewfinder to see if this could be the cause.

Well, its an odd, odd world....

So, today, out of the blue...I received an email. Telling me that Abes of Maine had shipped something to me. It didn't say what, but back when I'd first received the camera and discovered the cable protector didn't fit/work, I emailed the sales guy who helped me and asked him about it, and if they could send the correct part. I never received any response to that, even though I followed up once. Well, lo and behold, today...I received also received a package from some electronics company, and in that box was the correct cable protector part. The invoice listed non-standard stock. Odd, that they never responded to me, and yet still shipped the part!

Oh, and, it is the right part, and it works just fine.

Also odd... I received a package in the mail late last week, with....part IFC-100U. Labeled EOS ACC in a red box in the corner. This box contained nothing but a USB-C cable.... So, apparently...Canon decided to send me an extra cable, even though the one I have works fine, and I never asked them for an extra. The guy on the phone said the cable protector is only sold "with" a cable... Odd, however, that they never actually sent the part I needed....... Also that they never mentioned they would be sending me anything, the call was cut off midway through, and I was never able to finish the conversation. Only got an extra part I did not need, and only tangentially related to the part I needed.

I hope I'm just having one of those occasional bad experiences. I would hate to think this is what has become of Canon's once-vaunted world-class customer service!!

I am a NEW R6 owner, and I am using the older EF 24-105 with the EF adapter. using it in past on my 7d2 was no issue. but with the smaller r6 Body, this seemed awkard to shoot. I bought the BG-R10 today and Man what a difference in handling I was looking to get the 24-240, but I will wait now. Thoughts?

well I have a Sigma 18-300 that I can use on my 7D2 and I have a olde 12-24 tokina Lucky I have all otehr lens are FF 24-105 and sigma 150-600 and 100-400. I was thinking to get the RF-24-240

einstein72586 said:

I know a lot of the general uses for a nd filter, but has anyone seen whether a nd filter causes higher contrast in their photos? Looking to try and get more contrast in my outdoor portrait shots(f1.2) and I am curious if a nd filter would create more of a contrast pop

Click to expand...

Why not do this in post ? If you don’t want to tweak tonal contrast yourself download the DXO NIK software and use the tonal contrast module.

I won't speak for other vendors, but at B&H you can use the invoice (accessible from your order history) instead of the boxed receipt. My RF 100 invoice shows not only the order date (April 14th in my case), but the invoice date (July 20th for me). Invoice date is when your warranty would start.

installing, i have another shoot tomorrow.

neuroanatomist said:

That's all fine, but you cannot use it in full sun or the fluorite will crack, or so Nikon implied. But then they went and put fluorite into their black-painted lenses. And tout it's benefits. Gotta love marketeers.

Click to expand...

Well, Eduard Louis Bernays, the later pioneer of PR, worked in WW I as an expert of "psychological warfare", as he put it. Nikon marketing seems to have learned from him. I guess they had in the 90s a real problem because Canon was too innovative in lens design, their own original field when Canon made the Leica copies and Nikon the lenses. Today, Nikon still is behind, if one takes the DO tech as a measure. Canon has improved their EF 400mm f/4 DO II much, and Nikon came much later with their small 300mm f/4 - and they had trouble with decentered lenses:

LesC said:

The Canon UK site says the user manual has been updated & should be downloaded but I cant see that it's any different (still shows as Version 1.0, September 2020)

Click to expand...

The cover of the one I downloaded from Canon Australia says: "These operating instructions assume you are using EOS R5 firmware version 1.4.0 or later, © Canon INC 2021." So it's really new. In Canon Spain there is still the old manual.

SilverBox said:

Using the Ninja V+ you can get Prores 8k and work around the overheating issues

Click to expand...

They did it!

Update for anyone is interested in the mod.
I have modded my own R5 with thermal pad as in the video.
My R5 is out of warranty, and I got degree in electronic as well as some years working experience. My comment about the process is that it's simple enough for an expert/technician but very easy to f*ck up for any newbie.
I'm using the best thermal pad which is not conductive with the heat transfer rate is 17W/mK (Alphacool) of 1.5mm and 1mm thickness. There are better performance thermal pad which is graphite-based (50+ W/mK) but those are electrical conductive and can't be used here.
I use the stock alumnium piece unlike the copper one in the video. At first I just want to test and order the piece to be laser cut later. But the thermal performance is so good that I don't order anymore.
Result: ambient temperature was about 37-39 deg C those day (summer), no direct sunlight hit the camera. Camera was put on tripod and recording the street. I don't have CF Express card so I could only test 4K HQ with my V90 SD card. The camera recording 6 hours straight, all I do is hit the record button every 30min, and replace/format SD cards. Touching the camera is just slightly warm, don't feel any unconformtable at all. After 6 hours I don't think anymore test is needed to conclude simple modding will fix the overheating issue.
Firmware 1.3 at the test time

Viggo said:

It’s up on a lot of the Canon sites, including UK and Singapore.

Click to expand...

Yes, just saw it, finally. thanks!

koenkooi said:

RF24-105L or non-L? The people using the non-L and post to forums like this seem to like it.

Click to expand...

I have the non-L version of the EF lens and have been pleasantly surprised. It is my all-around general purpose lens.

considering my personal use case for a high MP body (landscape), I would prefer the R5 form due to size and weight.

EOS 4 Life said:

The weight is < 250g which makes it legal to fly in the USA unlicenced.
The price is $299

Click to expand...

Yes, because of the weight, you don't need to get the register the drone. However, for recreational flying, you still need to pass the TRUST test (The Recreational UAS Safety Test) which is pretty easy. However, the TRUST certificate only allows you to fly for personal fun. But the FAA's idea of "fun" is for your own personal enjoyment. If you decide to post the drone footage on social media, the FAA says it's no longer considered for your own personal enjoyment, but rather, you are sharing that enjoyment and thus are subject to Part 107 which requires a much more difficult test. As far as I know, very few people will fly a drone and be able to keep the footage to themselves.

CanonFanBoy said:

Hydrogen Fuel Cell Technology

Click to expand...

HFC was not written on the fingers in the title picture, but AC was. That must be the clue.

Dragon said:

Picture quality will absolutely benefit, but I was speaking from a potential revenue perspective. There is little to no money to be made shooting such events and thus the better lens can't be justified financially (unless, of course it is your kid on the field and you can afford the lens ).

Click to expand...

There's also the fact that anything that goes "out there" in public view with one's name on it reflects the overall quality of work one does. That can impact potential customers who might consider hiring one for other types of projects that are more profitable such as senior portraits, engagement shoots, piano or violin recitals, etc. This would be especially the case when one's pool of potential customers is mostly clustered around a specific school's culture as well as the greater community of which that school is a central part.

I had the Mk1 ef24-70f2.8 and then the Mk2 ef24-70f2.8 …. Followed by the Rf 24-70 f2.8 on my R5. Most recently I have tried an Rf 28-70 f2.

The Mk1 ef 24-70 was softer at f2.8 than the Mk2. Other than wide open it was as sharp as the Mk2. It weighed more and focus was quite a bit closer.

I preferred the Mk2 but disliked the fact I could not get as close as with the Mk1. The Mk2 was a lot nicer to handle and was IMO a much better lens … close focus aside.

The Rf 24-70 f2.8 is better still. It is as sharp as the ef mk2 but focus is close ! It takes it all on a notch from the ef versions and suits the R5 well.

the Rf 28-70 f2 is awesome and IMO subjectively the better for IQ … but I can’t put my finger on it. Others in reviews say the images have more ‘character’ than the Rf 24-70 f2.8 and I tend to agree. I can’t say why but the images seem more ‘live’. Sharpness wise they seem the same at f2 with the other at f2.8. I just prefer the f2 images. Take trouble with the f2 lens is the size and weight versus minimal real gains compared to the 24-70 f2.8 lenses.

Just a short FYI shipping update on Canon's RF 100mm macro lens. Placed pre-order for this lens and tripod collar with B&H on Jun 1, 2021. Just rec'd notification from BH that lens has shipped and my PayBoo card was charged. ETA to my home is Wed, Aug 18. Hooray for that. Maybe product backlogs are looking better?? Meanwhile, the tripod collar remains on backorder, even though they charged my CC for it, as well. In the future will order accessories separately to avoid this anomaly.

UPDATE: Lens arrived today, Aug 17, one day early.

You may have worked this out by now, but If I understand correctly, I think my setup does what you want.

Go to menu SHOOT7, "Shooting info display". Screen info settings. Make sure you have #6 checked, this is "screen off". I have only one other option checked so that the info button becomes an on/off toggle for the screen when you are shooting. But it doesn't need to be a toggle, you can have several shooting info screens along with "screen off".

When I'm shooting, I usually have the screen open & folded into the body, and toggled off with the info button. It then stays off when I pull back from the viewfinder. I can switch it on either by hitting the info button to show the shooting info screen, or by hitting Menu or Play.

For some reason #6 "screen off" in that menu is only available for still shooting.

Bennymiata said:

I haven't tried this myself, but perhaps you could use the C1 C2 C3 modes to do this for you.
Set C1 to manual focus and C2 for AF. Start the recording in C1 then when you're ready, just flick the mode dial to C2.
Might be worth a try.

Click to expand...

Thanks for you input. Unfortunately, this is not an option, because flipping the mode dial while recording actually stops recording. Also, C1-3 does not have Canon log, only the dedicated video mode does, so you are forced to use 8 bit 4.2.0, as far as I know.

Canon Rumors Guy said:

Continue reading...

Click to expand...

I don't dispute the results of the test, but I do wonder whether it is purely the stabilisation that is causing the Canon images to be sharper than those from the Sony.

There could be other explanations, e.g. most people would regard the Canon as being more comfortable (and therefore steadier) to hold, due to better ergonomics.