installing, i have another shoot tomorrow.

neuroanatomist said:

That's all fine, but you cannot use it in full sun or the fluorite will crack, or so Nikon implied. But then they went and put fluorite into their black-painted lenses. And tout it's benefits. Gotta love marketeers.

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Well, Eduard Louis Bernays, the later pioneer of PR, worked in WW I as an expert of "psychological warfare", as he put it. Nikon marketing seems to have learned from him. I guess they had in the 90s a real problem because Canon was too innovative in lens design, their own original field when Canon made the Leica copies and Nikon the lenses. Today, Nikon still is behind, if one takes the DO tech as a measure. Canon has improved their EF 400mm f/4 DO II much, and Nikon came much later with their small 300mm f/4 - and they had trouble with decentered lenses:

LesC said:

The Canon UK site says the user manual has been updated & should be downloaded but I cant see that it's any different (still shows as Version 1.0, September 2020)

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The cover of the one I downloaded from Canon Australia says: "These operating instructions assume you are using EOS R5 firmware version 1.4.0 or later, © Canon INC 2021." So it's really new. In Canon Spain there is still the old manual.

SilverBox said:

Using the Ninja V+ you can get Prores 8k and work around the overheating issues

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They did it!

Update for anyone is interested in the mod.
I have modded my own R5 with thermal pad as in the video.
My R5 is out of warranty, and I got degree in electronic as well as some years working experience. My comment about the process is that it's simple enough for an expert/technician but very easy to f*ck up for any newbie.
I'm using the best thermal pad which is not conductive with the heat transfer rate is 17W/mK (Alphacool) of 1.5mm and 1mm thickness. There are better performance thermal pad which is graphite-based (50+ W/mK) but those are electrical conductive and can't be used here.
I use the stock alumnium piece unlike the copper one in the video. At first I just want to test and order the piece to be laser cut later. But the thermal performance is so good that I don't order anymore.
Result: ambient temperature was about 37-39 deg C those day (summer), no direct sunlight hit the camera. Camera was put on tripod and recording the street. I don't have CF Express card so I could only test 4K HQ with my V90 SD card. The camera recording 6 hours straight, all I do is hit the record button every 30min, and replace/format SD cards. Touching the camera is just slightly warm, don't feel any unconformtable at all. After 6 hours I don't think anymore test is needed to conclude simple modding will fix the overheating issue.
Firmware 1.3 at the test time

Viggo said:

It’s up on a lot of the Canon sites, including UK and Singapore.

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Yes, just saw it, finally. thanks!

WalrusMan said:

any price predictions for this? Maybe somewhere between xf405 and xf705? Like around 4000$?

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$4,499

koenkooi said:

RF24-105L or non-L? The people using the non-L and post to forums like this seem to like it.

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I have the non-L version of the EF lens and have been pleasantly surprised. It is my all-around general purpose lens.

considering my personal use case for a high MP body (landscape), I would prefer the R5 form due to size and weight.

EOS 4 Life said:

The weight is < 250g which makes it legal to fly in the USA unlicenced.
The price is $299

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Yes, because of the weight, you don't need to get the register the drone. However, for recreational flying, you still need to pass the TRUST test (The Recreational UAS Safety Test) which is pretty easy. However, the TRUST certificate only allows you to fly for personal fun. But the FAA's idea of "fun" is for your own personal enjoyment. If you decide to post the drone footage on social media, the FAA says it's no longer considered for your own personal enjoyment, but rather, you are sharing that enjoyment and thus are subject to Part 107 which requires a much more difficult test. As far as I know, very few people will fly a drone and be able to keep the footage to themselves.

CanonFanBoy said:

Hydrogen Fuel Cell Technology

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HFC was not written on the fingers in the title picture, but AC was. That must be the clue.

Dragon said:

Picture quality will absolutely benefit, but I was speaking from a potential revenue perspective. There is little to no money to be made shooting such events and thus the better lens can't be justified financially (unless, of course it is your kid on the field and you can afford the lens ).

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There's also the fact that anything that goes "out there" in public view with one's name on it reflects the overall quality of work one does. That can impact potential customers who might consider hiring one for other types of projects that are more profitable such as senior portraits, engagement shoots, piano or violin recitals, etc. This would be especially the case when one's pool of potential customers is mostly clustered around a specific school's culture as well as the greater community of which that school is a central part.

I had the Mk1 ef24-70f2.8 and then the Mk2 ef24-70f2.8 …. Followed by the Rf 24-70 f2.8 on my R5. Most recently I have tried an Rf 28-70 f2.

The Mk1 ef 24-70 was softer at f2.8 than the Mk2. Other than wide open it was as sharp as the Mk2. It weighed more and focus was quite a bit closer.

I preferred the Mk2 but disliked the fact I could not get as close as with the Mk1. The Mk2 was a lot nicer to handle and was IMO a much better lens … close focus aside.

The Rf 24-70 f2.8 is better still. It is as sharp as the ef mk2 but focus is close ! It takes it all on a notch from the ef versions and suits the R5 well.

the Rf 28-70 f2 is awesome and IMO subjectively the better for IQ … but I can’t put my finger on it. Others in reviews say the images have more ‘character’ than the Rf 24-70 f2.8 and I tend to agree. I can’t say why but the images seem more ‘live’. Sharpness wise they seem the same at f2 with the other at f2.8. I just prefer the f2 images. Take trouble with the f2 lens is the size and weight versus minimal real gains compared to the 24-70 f2.8 lenses.

Just a short FYI shipping update on Canon's RF 100mm macro lens. Placed pre-order for this lens and tripod collar with B&H on Jun 1, 2021. Just rec'd notification from BH that lens has shipped and my PayBoo card was charged. ETA to my home is Wed, Aug 18. Hooray for that. Maybe product backlogs are looking better?? Meanwhile, the tripod collar remains on backorder, even though they charged my CC for it, as well. In the future will order accessories separately to avoid this anomaly.

UPDATE: Lens arrived today, Aug 17, one day early.

You may have worked this out by now, but If I understand correctly, I think my setup does what you want.

Go to menu SHOOT7, "Shooting info display". Screen info settings. Make sure you have #6 checked, this is "screen off". I have only one other option checked so that the info button becomes an on/off toggle for the screen when you are shooting. But it doesn't need to be a toggle, you can have several shooting info screens along with "screen off".

When I'm shooting, I usually have the screen open & folded into the body, and toggled off with the info button. It then stays off when I pull back from the viewfinder. I can switch it on either by hitting the info button to show the shooting info screen, or by hitting Menu or Play.

For some reason #6 "screen off" in that menu is only available for still shooting.

Beautiful series. Well done. FamilyGuy.

Bennymiata said:

I haven't tried this myself, but perhaps you could use the C1 C2 C3 modes to do this for you.
Set C1 to manual focus and C2 for AF. Start the recording in C1 then when you're ready, just flick the mode dial to C2.
Might be worth a try.

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Thanks for you input. Unfortunately, this is not an option, because flipping the mode dial while recording actually stops recording. Also, C1-3 does not have Canon log, only the dedicated video mode does, so you are forced to use 8 bit 4.2.0, as far as I know.

Canon Rumors Guy said:

Continue reading...

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I don't dispute the results of the test, but I do wonder whether it is purely the stabilisation that is causing the Canon images to be sharper than those from the Sony.

There could be other explanations, e.g. most people would regard the Canon as being more comfortable (and therefore steadier) to hold, due to better ergonomics.

Hi,
I got R5 a few months ago and recently tried it wity my EF 70-200 2.8 IS II. It is back-focusing. I've been photographing forest/trees and it misses focus when i press focusing button. But when i manually adjust focus, image becomes sharp. Has there been any solutions for that? Is Canon aware of the issue and working on a solution/FW update?
The title of the thread says this is the issue for several different generations of this lens (EF v2, v3, and even RF). From my point of view this is actually a good news meaning that my lens might be OK but R5 might need better FW.

So in talking to canon yet again, I find out they DO have a link to get pics. They cs rep was nice enough to email it to me and I was able to upload them.

Received email today that camera is being shipped, but I got no explanation of what was done. I logged in to my equipment page at USA.canon , looked at repair history and it was blank…. I called canon again to get outcome of issue and asked about the repair history page.

Was told , yeah, no one uses that page.
Hummm, I guess that’s why it’s blank

Then , why have it I wonder….

Hey guys,

I'm interested in knowing whether there is any work around to be able to switch to video mode without starting AF instantly, but being able to start AF during the recording without going back to the menu (to enable continous af from the menu).
If continous af is disabled, I can switch from photo mode to video without worrying that the R6 would misfocus just before recording starts. On the other hand, I have not found a way, to engage af when needed, once recording has started with continous af disabled.

Being able to start video recording with no AF enabled, but then having the option to engage it during the recording would make lot of sense in my wildlife videography.

How do you guys work around this issue?

Thanks in advance.

Regards,
Adam

Thanks, but apparently you missed the main site post and growing forum thread on this.

Joules said:

Depends on what you mean with stationary video. The 6D is severely lacking in AF compared to those other bodies. Especially the R6 will beat it hands down. If your video and stills subjects are handled fine even by the basic 11 point OVF, contrast AF LiveView AF, than sticking with what you have is an option.

Depending on your audience and / or how much you would like cropping your video (punch in and so on), 4K might be a complete waste or a mighty upgrade. With the R6 beating the M50 in this regard, both with quality and AF.

You've told us to little to judge what you need, on which ways you would benefit and what you even value in a camera.

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Thanks. I think I'm gonna stick with what I have. I video myself mostly in one spot so with any movement I can just increase the DOF as needed. Probably R6-bound, but will hold off and just keep maxing out my 6D for awhile.

Digital camera market share in 2020 by manufacturer​

1. Canon 47.9% (+2.5%)
2. Sony 22.1% (+1.9%)
3. Nikon 13.7% (-4.9%)
4. Fujifilm 5.6% (-0.3%)
5. Panasonic 4.4% (-0.3%)

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Let's turn that input relative numbers:
1. Canon 45.4% -> 47.9% = +5.5%
2. Sony 20.2% -> 22.1% = +9.4%
3. Nikon 18.6% -> 13.7% = -26.3%
4. Fujifilm 5.9% -> 5.6% = -5.1%
5. Panasonic 4.7% -> 4.4% = -6.4%

That's gotta hurt a lot at Nikon.

neuroanatomist said:

Again, the point is counterfeit products. As in, someone bought a AA battery that looked exactly like a Duracell, but was actually made by Charlie's Cheap Coppertops using contaminated materials, and that battery exploded.

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Still safer than a Samsung battery.