Posts

EOS 4 Life · Mar 15, 2021

vladk said:
bmpcc 6k and URSA are S35, bmpcc 4k is 4/3. Micro is s16.

Here is comparison of all popular sensor formats: https://www.sharegrid.com/blog/posts/a-filmmakers-guide-to-sensor-sizes-and-lens-formats

The post you responded to was referring to the BMPCC which is super 16.

puffo25 · Mar 15, 2021

As March 15th still no firmware update. So sad:-(

phile · Mar 14, 2021

Bennymiata said:
I have a Fuji W3 3d camera.
It has 2 lenses and 2 sensors and a special lcd monitor that shows the pictures in 3d. It's quite amazing.
If you have a 3d TV, you can also see the 3d images on that.
Unfortunately, it wasn't a commercial success.

Perhaps you should try and find one on ebay etc., and play with it.
Great fun!

I have a Poppy, which is a box full of mirrors. I place an iPhone inside. The result is a stereo pair in one file. I can view the result in the Poppy or upload to my computer (and Flickr). If I get the image small enough on the computer screen, I can lock it in without a viewer. Sorry, no Canon content.

Ronny Wertelaers · Mar 13, 2021

privatebydesign said:
If it was one lens, 24-70 f2.8. If two lenses 35 f1.4 and 85 f1.4.

With the R system I’d happily use the more modest 35 f2 and 85 f2, or the 24-70 2.8 zoom until you get a real handle on your style.

I agree with the 35mm and 85mm prime.

Ronny Wertelaers · Mar 13, 2021

SecureGSM said:
I cannot see myself start swapping lenses at an event just not practical. You risk loosing moments. Unless, in between sessions. It would be 28-70 F2.0 plus other body with 70-200 F2.8 IS for me.
I trust that mirrorless kit will be much lighter anyway.
I would keep Sigma 35/1.4 and 85/1.4 and 100 macro in my bag as well. 50mm is not my thing.

If a moment is happening with you're zoomlens 28-70 zoomlens, is it on 28mm or on 70mm when the moment is happening? So you first need to correct this and change it on 35mm for good impact. So you have to take a extra step before you can take the shot with the risk of losing te moment. With a fixed 35mm you need to be close, you're pictures will have more impact and you learn to quickly stand at the correct distance because you know this lens so much. So i think with fixed 35mm you can have more and better moments and can help you to become a better photographer.

Chris.Chapterten · Mar 13, 2021

StoicalEtcher said:
Very interesting stuff Chris - thanks for posting!
Was the DedoLight DP1.1 something you had lying around, or purchased for this purpose?
Look forward to seeing the end results when put to use.
Cheers
Stoical

Happy to share! I have actually had the Dedolight DP1.1 for a few years and used it with my constant lights. Very impressive optics, but I never thought it would be possible to adapt it to a flash. I thought that it would need the Dedolight focusing style light for it to work.

Luckily I found a used Broncolor snoot on eBay for a very good price so decided to give it a go... pleasantly surprised at the results.

Having it setup this way does eat up a lot of light though. As an example of exposure settings, roughly 75 watt/seconds of power was needed for a bright exposure at ISO 100, F2.0, 1/200. This was with the light about 2-3 metres away from the target. It’s a good thing that the Broncolor packs are quite powerful!

Michael Clark · Mar 13, 2021

TravelerNick said:
I thought you had to knock out a mugger while still not missing a shot.

You can manually focus a corpse. Outside of the Walking Dead they tend to hold still better than the average model

The lens needs to still be in alignment, both with itself (element to element) and with the image plane, though.

steen-ag · Mar 13, 2021

Great video

Bdbtoys · Mar 12, 2021

Alowan said:
Hi everyone,

I recently got the RF 70-200mm f 2.8 and seems to be a "beast" of a lens in a suprisingly small package.

However I have noticed that when the camera is turned off or the lens is disconnected you can see a part wiggle quite a bit around inside the lens. I suspect this is the IS or something - and I have not noticed any problems with the lens. As the shop I bought it from currently is out of stock I cannot see if their lenses have it - so I am curious if anyone know what is is and if it is normal. (see gif)

Yes. The IS doesn't 'park' when camera is off or unmounted.

dwarven · Mar 12, 2021

Mt Spokane Photography said:
You may know, but you are telling many of our members otherwise. They may have never heard of it before. THINK!!

It says as much on the front page of their website. I also said so in the first sentence of my post. READ!!

AnastieByte · Mar 12, 2021

I hired this week the Sigma 150-600mm Sport and a Canon RF 100-500mm. I took around a dozen random garden shots with the Sigma and put it away. It was very heavy compared to the RF and quite soft. I have nothing other than the price to complain about regarding the RF 100-500mm its superb.

Kiton · Mar 11, 2021

Viggo said:
Excellent, thanks for sharing . Would love to see a few shots, but maybe that’s not allowed?

Hey Viggo,

I checked, and it sounds like by NHL rules I can't post them on any web site but the newspapers, ironically tho, I can post them to Insta.

I did post a 3 there.
Before dumping the files from my hard drive to the backup server, I went through and pulled another 30 or so picture, mostly isolation and beauty pix for the archive. That R5 is so much better than my 1Dx mk 2!
I still wish I had kept the 5d mk 4 for soft skin tones, but that ship has sailed.

David the street guy · Mar 11, 2021

Sorry for coming a bit late with an answer to your question, but still, here it is.

Two years ago, I bought the RP with its kit lens, the 24-105 f/4 IS USM. At first, I expected to be limited by its relatively small aperture, but the RP is good enough to manage this lens, even inside.

I noticed that I never leave without taking this lens in my bag, and I even end up, sometimes, not using other lenses I brought, specially in hostile environments (windy, very crowdy, rainy, blizzards, etc…) where the risks are greater than the benefits of using a better lens. The 24-105 is very versatile, good enough even fully open or at its extremes and it feels like a strong and sturdy enough lens for what I do.

If you're lucky, you might even find it refurbished or used, if you're looking for a bargain.

AlanF · Mar 11, 2021

You might find this thread useful:

RF 100-500mm vs EF 100-400mm II vs 400mm DO II on R5

One of the questions asked about the RF 100-500mm is whether it’s worth upgrading to it from an EF 100-400mm II plus adapter. The consensus so far is that if you are starting from scratch, then it makes sense to buy into the RF system but if you already have the excellent EF lens then there is...

www.canonrumors.com

Starting from scratch, it would be better to buy a new 100-500mm rather than a new 100-400mm II, but a used 100-400mm II at a good price would be attractive. I would not advise the 100-400mm first version or the 400mm f/5.6 at this stage - they are too long in the tooth - unless you can't afford more. The RF 800mm is a specialist lens of limited use. I have used all of these lenses.

Mar 11, 2021

Mt Spokane Photography said:
It is a good thing for sports cameras. I suspect that it might be like 8K video where everyone says they need it but few actually use it.

I wonder about the cost though, the process of creating a stacked sensor is expensive so its not something to get unless you really need it, or have a tone of money to get the latest thing to sit next to all your Leicas.

It'll be priced with the A1, 1DxIII, and D6. It is a specialist sports and wildlife camera, not a D850/R5 competitor. The stacked sensor in the A1 does give you a blackout free EVF and no rolling shutter issues when shooting and panning. Basically this is a step to the global shutter or it could even have a global shutter. The R1 will likely have a stacked sensor as well or a similar technology to increase sensor readout when in electronic mode.

drolo61 · Mar 11, 2021

solved

Mt Spokane Photography · Mar 11, 2021

Another thought is that the OP is one of those who have superb ability to distinguish color differences. Some have that ability and see the difference in things that look the same to my old eyes. As I said, on my EOS R, I noticed the viewfinder had different colors, the LCD was best. External lighting can have a big effect for sure.

SnowMiku · Mar 10, 2021

I was reading the manual for the 90D, and I learned that you can press the Q or Info button in the Menu to switch to the next main tab, you learn something new everyday haha.

Chris.Chapterten · Mar 10, 2021

Mt Spokane Photography said:
I've not seen the issue, but we are all a bit different in the way we use things. I have almost no feeling in my fingers, so I have very deliberate movement of the joystick.

Aussie shooter said:
Since I got the R6 i have not had to use the joystick to move points. It is either tracking with the initial point in the centre or I use the touch screen to move the points. Having said that however I have played around with it while not in shooting conditions and I dont seem to have any issues.

Thanks to both of you for the feedback. I originally thought something may have been wrong with my battery grip as that was when I first noticed the sensitivity.

I don’t really have any issues when I am making big AF point movements, say from one side of the screen to the other. It seems to mostly register a press when I am trying to make a minor adjustment... eg. just a few AF points across. This requires a short duration nudge of the joystick and it’s that, that seems to cause the centering.

I might try taking the joystick sensitivity to minimum and see if that allows for a longer directional ‘nudge’ for the minor adjustment to be made.

I have now heard quite a few people say that they prefer touch and drag for manual AF movement... at the end of the day, that may just suit the minor adjustments I like to make better....

Mt Spokane Photography · Mar 10, 2021

Rupp1 said:
OK, I just wanted to follow up. I went back to Google, which ultimately proved to be a time sink. I have also spent a great deal of time on YouTube. Spending 25 minutes to get one set of settings, is not especially efficient.

As AlanF presumed, I was hoping for more. To be fair, my pursuing this subject has led me to try back button focusing after years of being frustrated with the shutter button and trying sub-optimal solutions. But is it really too much to ask for suggested settings for wildlife, landscape, action, and studio with brief reasons for each?

Those settings and reasons tend to vary a lot by photographer. In the past, Canon has published white papers with tricks and tips. I'm not sure why we haven't seen them yet.

The Digital picture has a very detailed review included suggested setups. There are also some user suggestions for various situations on Fred Miranda. Its lots of work to track those down.

SteveC · Mar 10, 2021

AlanF said:
As pointed out by others, the insurers have overheads of staff and office costs, and have to make a nice profit. They also know the statistics of the frequency of breakdowns plus a safety allowance for themselves. So, if you are a careful person you are paying far over the odds for repairs by paying them to pay for it for you. I was given the advice when I was young that you should insure only against events that are rare but are very expensive when they do happen, like for your house burning down or emergency health insurance when you travel or third party liability etc. If you can afford to cover the cost yourself, then you save money by insuring yourself with your own funds.
if you never have the savings to cover losses, then paying insurance may be important but it would be cheaper over the longer run to put the money you would pay for insurance into a regular savings account.

I tend to agree with this philosophy. The only time I ever bought an extended warranty was for an ink jet printer (where I know the damn jets would plug up). Of course that time they waited a bit longer to do so.

HarrisonB · Mar 9, 2021

st jack photography said:
What I am wondering is this: does PC speed and write method have anything to do with this? I feel it does. I shoot with a powered tethered line (TetherTools with powered adapter) and it goes straight to my massive desktop PC with dual SSD, dual video cards, 32GB RAM, i7-7000+ overclocked, and if I compare that to my laptop, an 8Gb RAM with magnetic storage, the speeds are much different. I could be wrong, but I feel PC specs are an influence since my super-PC does the transfers almost instantaneously, less than a second per image.
There is also a difference between a simple file transfer and then a transfer and render, I believe. If I transfer to my SSD for storage, that goes much faster than if I transfer and queue up a batch via C1 or Helicon (Helicon is what I often shoot tethered with, since I do mostly commercial/product work, but if I do portraits I often use C1.) It could be that the speed is for a simple transfer, not the speed for loading with a program, since the program will use the PC RAM and processor to render.
It could be that there is something I am missing, so I admit I could be wrong. My untested guess would be the bottleneck is RAM and processor speed of the PC to render and sort, as opposed to a straight transfer. This theory should be testable, I believe.

Thank you for this rundown, that all makes sense to me and I'm certain that PC specs play a major role.

I've spent all morning combing through forums and was able to determine that my C1 was basically not using my GPU at all and relying on my CPU for everything. I was able to follow a couple of guides to activate my GPU (namely this post about troubleshooting potential issues with Open CL) and that seems to have done the trick. When I shoot a burst of photos there's an initial pause but then the images take less than a second each to load in. I don't even see the rendering happen, it's done so quickly.

I was able to test on an iMac as well where it just worked perfectly well without me having to do anything which at least let me know that it wasn't the camera which was my key worry.

Thank you again for your time responding!

macrunning · Mar 7, 2021

I'm just curious as to what the general consensus is with purchasing Canon's Service plans for lenses. If you have purchased the service plan, how was the actual service and process? Was it easy or did you have to jump through hoops? If you purchased it did you find value in it? If you didn't purchase the service plan, why not? Trying to establish a pros/cons list for these expensive investments!

Fischer · Mar 7, 2021

Sporgon said:
The AliExpress link with the new rubber kit for the 5DII doesn't include anything for the card door. In the shutter replacement video you can see that the card door is just bare plastic. I looked because you got me wondering if maybe late versions of the 5DII did have the nicely finished door !! Are you sure you don't mean the 5DIII ? That and the IV do have the rubber finish and I'm betting that the R5II or III will have it too

I'm sure I thought about the rubber grip part...

So yes, we do in fact agree.

Joules · Mar 5, 2021

cayenne said:
Ok thank you for the info!!!

I have both adapters on the way.

I've not played with the R cameras yet.
Like I mentioned, I have a GFX100 and a Leica M10M...both of those have focus assist, where when you look through the viewfinder, places in focus will light up....are you saying that the R5 and other R cameras don't have that and require an adapter chip to do focus assist?

Again, thank you for all the great feedback!!

What a great forum!!

cayenne

The Canon DSLR will not light up the AF points unless a lens with electronic contacts is attached. I think that applies to all of them, certainly to my 600D and 80D. I just tried it with my two m42 adapters to confirm.

With the R bodies, I unfortunately haven't used one with any MF lenses yet, though eventually that is the plan for my assemble of manual lenses relatives have gifted me over the years.

I know for sure that without a chipped lens, you can still simply magnify the AF spot to visually confirm it's sharp, or use focus peaking which are colored dots highlighting the plane of focus. Then there is a third option, called focus guides, that is only available for chipped lenses and also allows eye detection. Canon has a good video demonstration:

As for the usual blinking of an AF point, I don't know if that is available on the R bodies. Couldn't find info on the internet quickly, hopefully an owner can chime in.

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