Hi guys, it's me again. My lens has been cleaned and everything is perfect now....but i'm having a second problem.

If you want to see, here is the thread: https://www.canonrumors.com/forum/threads/strange-case-of-blur-images-canon-rf-24-70-f2-8.39674/

Thanks!!

The Canon USA store has stock of the refurbished Canon RF 28-70mm f/2L USM lens. Refurbished lenses carry a full 1-year Canon USA warranty,
Key Features


Bright, Constant f/2.0 Zoom Lens
L-series Lens with High Image Quality
Control Ring for Direct Setting Changes
12 pin Communication System
Dust- and Water-resistant with Fluorine Coating
Air Sphere Coating (ASC) Minimizes Lens Flare and Ghosting
Two UD Elements and One Super UD Element


Canon RF 28-70mm f/2L USM $2399 (Reg $2999)

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One of the most frustrating things about the 1Dx II for me was that it was a terrible dust magnet in my experience (I know others disagreed and I'm not really interested in debating the point, suffice if to say that I was not alone in this).

It was so bad that I pretty much avoided using the 1Dx II for anything that had a lot of sky in the image (birds in flight and scenery for example) and used it almost exclusively for sports where it was never a problem.

So last week, my wife and I went to Indiana to shoot Sandhill Cranes. I took the 1DX III because with sports being pretty much cancelled these days, I'm trying to get as much use and experience with the III as I can. While processing the photos I realized that "Hey, I'm not seeing dust spots in the sky!"

Since Canon never admitted they had a problem with dust, I doubt if they wanted to highlight the improvement with the 1Dx III, but it seems to me, with just limited opportunities to use it, that the dust magnet issues may be much less than they were with the I and the II. Curious if anyone else with the III is noticing this as well.

Valvebounce said:

I never had any luck using this on my 300D, possibly because I learned to use it on my 1000Fn!
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Probably because I was trying to do it from memory instead of re-reading the manual for the 300D!
Oh well!

Cheers, Graham.

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Or just set it to f/16

drat now my local camera shop calls and they have them in stock.. guess stock is coming online for anyone still looking.

Well, I didn't mean to start putting down Lexar. I've used the UHS 1 version in both my 80D and R a lot with zero issues. And I used Lexar CF cards in my 5DIII and 5DIV with no issues ever.

But we have been reading here and there about the R5 and R6 being more particular about cards generally.

The only cards I've used so far in the R6 are SanDisk, and, fortunately, not a single issue.

I see $100 off on the R w/ Kit lens now. Not the best deal but it's something...

However, knowing the deals going on outside of the US, I think they will do something in the US after Nov 21st (current deals expire).

20Dave said:

Apple diversified into markets that they researched and determined that there was a good ROI, or at least they anticipated that they could grow the market to a substantial size. I don't see the drone market as ever getting very big.

Everyone that I know owns a smartphone. A lot of people that I know own non-cellphone cameras of one sort or another. I know exactly one person who owns a drone. I don't personally know any professional photographers, and I would imagine that a large segment of pros would want (or already own) a drone for things like wedding and athletic shoots (assuming local ordinances permit their use). But that is a pretty small market in terms of consumer spending.

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The point I was trying to make was in general terms: not limited to drones, but to other accessories that fall in the realm of imaging—like external recorders and gimbals.

As for Sony entering the drone business, filmmaking is a growing market—many photographers are easing into video because their customers are requesting this service.

It looks nay bad. But I would love to see a full line of f/1.8 L primes to compete with the S line. Something compact but still with the fast focus motors and uncompromising build and IQ. Maybe Canon will do these as 1.4 but those would be just as big as the 1.2.

Yep I can confirm it does try to draw off them both about equally. It does charge them one by one.

I haven’t noticed any improvements in speed though. My pinky finger is always happier with the grip on though.

Venus Laowa has added Manual aperture version of their 100mm Macro Ef mount for video makers.

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JPAZ said:

Anyone update the firmware using an R5 / RP / R6 with an adapter? I have not yet given this lens a workout on the RF -Adapter mount but it is a great lens that will see use for a while. I am not ready to get the RF 100-500 yet.

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I just updated the 400mm DO II using the adapter on the R5, which is the same process - it was simple and fast. I haven’t done it on the 100-400mm II yet as no problems with it after 5000 shots.

I've just discovered that you CANNOT charge non-canon batteries in the BG-R10 grip. The circuitry apparently interrogates the batteries and refuses to charge them in the grip. If you put two Canon batteries in it works fine. If you have a non-Canon and a Canon battery in it doesn't charge. If you try charging in the body and then turn the camera on and select battery info, you get a prompt asking if there is a non-Canon battery in the grip. If you answer Yes (for non-Canon) then you get a warning about counterfeit batteries and the camera shuts down. If you say NO and try to trick the grip, you get the warning and it doesn't charge. So it appears when you try and charge non-Canon batteries, it doesn't work.

Chris.Chapterten said:

Scanning through a couple of photos at 200% magnification I have so far found two dead pixels... one is right at the very edge of the frame and is not much of a concern. The second is unfortunately right in the middle of the frame and is a distinct purple colour.

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Please read my post posted on another thread.

Does it have the "Alberto Korda" mode?

I'd be curious to see how this stacks up against the Mavic Air 2 and Mavic 2 Pro. I'd like to get a drone at some point, and I've been leaning towards the latter two, and more specifically, the Mavic Air. Might be a lot of fun!

As far as living in the Northwest goes, I'm in agreement with the above. I've been living on my little island for about six years now, but I'm itching to leave. It's a beautiful place, but the politics here are crazy. I'm thinking about leaving, as are several of my close friends.

Joules said:

Be aware that there is currently no hardware support for 10-bit 4:2:2 hardware decoding, so that if that's what you filmed, you have to expect poor playback performance. Otherwise, maybe let us know what CPU and GPU you've got in your rig. Built for gamings can mean different things. Although I suppose with playback you were just referring to literal file playback, independent of any editing software.

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thank you, wouldn't have known that. To me it's mp4... my machine plays mp4 smoothly normally, but that makes sense. I used whatever was default and found it stuttered a lot, but that would explain things esp why it was smooth after passing and re-exporting it via shotcut.

system is AMD 8320 8 core processor 3.50 GHz.... 32 GB RAM, Nvidia 1060 with 6GB RAM, win 10 pro (1904)... SSD drive etc.. Older, but beefy.

I do plan to build a new rig in the next year or so but I think you may have nailed the lack of hardware support for that codec. I probably did use that.. so having said that, what would a good starting point be? Starting to view some youtubes, but most seem to assume I know what I"m doing already (I'll check out the other link)

Maybe the battery drain problem is the batteries depletes themself on their own, rather than the body drains the batteries. I tested my 10 LP-E6N batteries (which came totally discharged out of the box) in 5D4 and 5D3 bodies and they reached the "not powering on" state in 1-2 weeks (in any body, with or without grip). Besides them I have 4 of older LP-E6 batteries not showing any signs of discharging in the same bodies, in the same time interval. So the question is: why are the LP-E6Ns discharged so fast when the LP-E6s not?

Mt Spokane Photography said:

Somehow, I thought I read RP in the post. It would be more appropriate for the R5. I keep GPS off on my cameras so its not for me but for some its very important.If I ever wanted the location, I could link to my phone.

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I think I've found a GPS logger that can work several days in a row on its own battery. It could be a solution should I ever switch to the R system.

Well I do air shows, still waiting on cockpit af

YuengLinger said:

GREAT question! I had the camera set for Mechanical. I just now found that once I choose ENABLE for focus bracketing, the Shutter Mode switches automatically to Electronic. I don't see anyway to change that, but I can see it as optimal no vibration.

But you are certainly right about the 0.5 sec restriction for electronic! It's on page 235 of the AUG.

I guess this has to do also with what is basically Live View shooting?

In this case, it seems worth experimenting with apertures less than the recommended f/5.6 for very low light. But I think in most focus stacking situations 0.5 seconds should be fine, especially with how little noise the R6 produces.

Thanks!

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Well, then, I didn’t know it automatically switched to electronic when doing bracketing either . A lucky mistake, I guess

Depends on your budget and your upgrade plans, but I'd be tempted to grab a used Sigma 30/1.4, enjoy using it straight away, and worry about full-frame lenses when you have a full-frame camera.

I've happily used the EF-S Sigma 30 1.4 EX with crop bodies for years (first a 500D, then a 7D2) and wouldn't be without it. It's my go-to for family/domestic use. Sharp enough wide open (at least in the centre), nice bokeh, decently fast autofocus, and with Dual Pixel you shouldn't have the AF accuracy issues that some DSLR users encounter though-the-viewfinder (anecdotally I find it OK close up but a bit prone to randomly missing at longer focus distances).

In ways a 35/f2 would be a more "sensible" choice. It depends on how much you'd miss having 1.4 (speaking for myself, that'd gnaw at me disproportionately to the practical difference) and whether you're likely to want / use the IS (personally I hardly ever use the 30/1.4 slower than 1/250 anyway).

You might also consider the 18-35/1.8 if budget permits and it's not too big.

mrproxy said:

An RF35 1.4 would be no-brainer. Can be without IS.

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I don't see the logic of introducing a third RF 50mm that lacks IS.

Thank you, JPAZ.

Updated! (as my 100-400II too). I remember this jump happening to me 3 to 4 times in the last 2 years with either 7D2 or 5DsR.I do not remember which one or both of them).