Bdbtoys said:

Yes. IS off on lens while camera is on/powered, will electronically lock both the IS elements in the lens and the IS sensor in the body. When everything is locked, the clunking you hear when moving around the camera should go away.

Note, By default on the R5, when you turn IS off on the lens, the body IS also shuts off.

Click to expand...

ok I will try it even though I still hear some movement

I had Pocketwizard Flex TT5 for my studio strobes years ago and found them to be terrible. Unreliable triggering, and maximum sync speed I could get out of them was sometimes as low as 1/125.

Now using Godox X1T and they have been 100% reliable for over a year now. I don't think they have ever failed to trigger the flash, and never failed to sync at 1/200

Goodluck! It might be those damn pocketwizards....

Antono Refa said:

No, its field curvature. As Roger Cicala wrote, "wide-angle lenses tend to have more curvature, or more irregular curvature". Generally, zooms are less corrected than primes, so your personal experience makes sense.

Click to expand...

The interesting element in your answer is the "irregular" field curvature.
I had myself thought of field curvature, but rejected that solution, since only one side of the picture was affected.
But the fact that field curvature can be irregular is indeed an interesting suggestion. It could also be decentering...
I have the afore-mentionned issue only around 30-35mm with the EF 16-35 f4 at infinity setting.

bdeutsch said:

There are so many great general interest cameras made by the market leaders like Canon, Nikon and Sony, I guess it makes sense for niche manufacturers like Sigma to make niche cameras like this one.

---

Deutsch Photography, Inc.: NYC Wedding Photographer | Actor and Corporate Headshots NYC | Family and Baby Portraits

Click to expand...

Canon, Nikon, and Sony do make niche cameras as well.
As single models go the FP sold respectably.

usern4cr said:

My SD card in the R5 is a PROGRADE 256GB 300MB READ 250MB WRITE card. I formatted it immediately after initial insertion into the R5. I've never had a problem. I'm careful to never remove or insert the card from the R5 or Prograde CFEXPRESS B/SD reader while under power as I know that can cause damage to cards. I also have Prograde for the CFExpress card with no problems.

I suggest you try Prograde if you think it is a problem with other manufacturer's cards and not a user issue.

Click to expand...

I use a Prograde memory card and my camera has still locked up multiple times. I don't think my issue is related to the memory card. It seems to lock up when I'm not actually using it. For clarification it seems to lock up when I'm walking around in search of things to take pics of. The camera is on and when I go to take a pic; I find it frozen and the only thing to do is remove the battery.

Thank you, everyone, for your answers.

I decided to buy the RF 35mm… and then learned there was a 150$ rebate on it. Even better!

Now, I'm just waiting for it to arrive at my local photo shop. Can't wait to try it!

unfocused said:

It's not unique to the U.K.

However. I would say that I am less enamored of the control ring adapter (or the lens control ring) than I was initially. I had my R set to change the ISO through the control ring and found it all too easy to change it inadvertently. I now prefer the non-control ring version.

Click to expand...

Really? I love it!!. Set up as exposure compensation when using manual with auto ISO it really speeds things up in rapidly changing situations

IF, this came out, the lenses could be less expensive, not more. A good deal of lens design, and the number of elements is aimed at flattening out the film plane. If that adjective is lessened, they may be able to reduce the complexity.

LSXPhotog said:

The color inconsistencies between my Sigma and Canon lenses have me finally transitioning over to Canon glass entirely.

Click to expand...

If you use color correction, you can avoid this problem. I have a Samyang 14mm and its not a problem to maintain consistent colors after you have built the needed profile - which you only need to do once. I hope myself that Sigma will give some of their better primes an RF-mount. Choice is good. And with mirrorless AF is not the challenge it used to be.

I use the EF lensbaby composer pro2 on the R5 using the adaptor and it works just fine. the additional help of peaking etc of mirrorless makes it much easier to use.

randfee said:

why don't they add eye tracking AF.... by that I mean tracking the eye of the photographer! Didn't they have it in cameras 20 years ago? 'LOOK' at your target in the viewfindere and lock by pressing the AF-on button.

I don't understand why they don't have that.

Click to expand...

Maybe becouse photos contain info where it focused . You want your wife know what you were watching on party

I had a 90D for about six months. I bought it because I was bored and wanted a new toy.

I mostly used it as a studio camera and didn't care for the way it rendered skin tones using studio strobes.

I tried using it as a landscape/travel camera, but struggled with sharpness using EF-S lenses. It was somewhat better using full frame L lenses, but that made for a big, heavy system - might as well just use my 5D4.

I ended up selling the 90D and the Canon EF-S 17-55 F/2.8 IS lens I bought trying to squeeze the maximum sharpness out of the 90D

My old Canon EOS 77D is still my travel camera. I just like the look of the images and if I'm not too critical I can even use kit lenses on it with fairly good results, which saves a lot of weight in my backpack. It doesn't have microfocus adjustment, so I don't try to do much shallow DOF work with it.

After all that experimenting, it seemed like the 90D would be a great sports camera. And of course if it's your only camera, you will learn how to use it to good advantage and adjust your style to its capabilities.

Seeing this really makes me realize just how good of a deal I got on my used RF 24-70 with box in like new condition for $1849. I had no intention of replacing my EF until I used a friend’s RF on an assignment. Found one used later that month and pulled the trigger. In some ways, I regret the purchase, but sold the EF 24-70 for $1200...so I only had to come out of pocket with $650.

Took the lens for a bird-run today. I normally do not do birds - but what else to shoot during lock down?

Sharp pictures, fast very AF - but mirrorless AF is not perfect in all situations. It was heavy after 2½ hours of intensive use - but I carried a lot of gear on a longish hike - so maybe it was the total weight that was killing me. Stabilization works well and @500mm you really need it. 4K video was amazingly good - not a regular user so just playing with it. My R6 overheated! Forgot to use my color card (bummer), so cannot say if it has any color cast compared to the other R "L" lenses. But using my own custom R6 profile produces excellent results. So guessing its coatings are in line with the rest.

All together I feel very confident using this lens and it seems to be a keeper. It is also something different than the RF 70-200 mm f/2.8 IS L due to the extra 100mm FL. Wheras I had started to use the 100-400mm IS L II very often by itself - leaving the EF 70-200mm F72.8 at home preferring a prime if I needed a wide aperature.

Canon dude

Adorama has a Seagate 2 Pack IronWolf 8TB 3.5″ Hard Drive, SATA 6GB/s, 7200RPM as their Deal of the Day for $369 (Reg $419)
Key Features

2 Pack 7200 RPM spindle speed
Full-track multiple-sector transfer capability without local processor intervention
High instantaneous (burst) data-transfer rates (up to 600MB per second)
Native Command Queuing with command ordering to increase performance in demanding applications
PowerChoice for selectable power savings
Perpendicular recording technology provides the drives with increased areal density
SeaTools diagnostic software performs a drive self-test that eliminates unnecessary drive returns
State-of-the-art cache and on-the-fly error-correction algorithms

Seagate 2 Pack IronWolf 8TB 3.5″ Hard Drive $369 (Reg $419)

Click to expand...

Continue reading...

Fischer said:

Well that decides the matter then. No worries!

Click to expand...

Got it. Now planning how to escape my local lock down

Conclusions in the video. It is a long video but I compared these lenses over a period of several months. Cliff notes image quality is very similar. Giving away the 400 F5.6 at 1000 subs

victorshikhman said:

1 year late
Price gouging
Compatibility with most common conferencing apps: Teams, WebEx, Zoom, etc. is still "good luck with that".

How is this not a $40 kit with compatibility assured across the top 5 videoconferencing platforms?
This was a massive lost opportunity for Canon.

If they REALLY wanted to do something special, they would have found a way to load those top 5 conferencing apps into a compact wifi dongle that directly attaches to the camera, and makes it a seamless solution, so that we could use the flippy screen as the video-conferencing monitor and be untethered from our cell phones and laptops for videoconferencing. That would have pushed a lot of cameras into peoples hands.

Click to expand...

Have you even tried it? I've tried it in Teams, Zoom, and Skype and it works fine. You're probably basing your judgment on Youtube videos where they looked at the beta version of the software.

With the R5, I have the flippy screen facing me and I'm doing the Teams meeting just by looking at the flippy screen when I'm talking (just so my eyes are facing the right direction; if I need to see them then I'll look back at my monitor).

Random Orbits said:

Using the 28-70 is like carrying another EF 70-200 f/2.8L IS III because their weights are similar. I'm more willing to lug that weight at the telephoto end because the other options have similar weights. I'm less willing to do that for the midrange zoom because there are several options that weigh and cost less. One option would be to bridge the 16-35 and 70-200 with a 50mm prime. Another would be a 24-70 or 24-105 zoom. The 28-70 also uses 95mm filters, so if you're already using 82mm filters for the EF 16-35 and EF 24-70, then they won't work with the RF 28-70.

I think of the 28-70 as a niche lens. It's great for events especially those at night. Balancing the exposure of the background with flash is easier when you cut the ISO in half. It's larger aperture also give a little more subject isolation than a f/2.8 zoom. The RF 24-70 is similar to the EF 24-70 II, except that it has IS and is native to the RF ecosystem and is a better general purpose lens than the RF 28-70.

Click to expand...

I agree. It's really a "want" lens, not a "need" lens. I think I'll stick around with my old 24-70 II

An introduction to my new channel and an overview off a typical day in the woods. Not all fun and games.

These are all video-first lenses. Judging from the CR demographic, I don't think many here will feel that they're missing out

It focuses well, but is a slow focusing lens (speed-wise). Mine is the same way, it works great but is slow to focus compared to more modern lenses.

mariachigringo said:

Too late! GFX 100S is getting my money. Not that I don't have patience. My first digital camera was a casio 1/2 a megapixel, bought back in the 90's. I waited till 2010 to buy a 7d and a 5dII. It's been almost 10 years now and the 7d and 5dII have served me well but Canon is definitely not going to come up with a camera that will compete with the GFX 100S for landscape anytime soon.

Click to expand...

I am also thinking about GFX 100S. To be honest pixel is not my primary concern but the dynamic range boost. But then I start to realize that with these MF camera you end up shooting with compromised lens. For cost and weight reasons they can never deliver the supposedly large aperture kind of experience. Their argument is that the exposure you lose can be made up by larger sensor. But then essentially it is not different from FF experience and you lose the great access to all the lens collections.

My conclusion is that this is not a better or worse situation. (Digital) MF is just for a different kind of photographer than FF users. I don't plan to significantly change my style so it doesn't make sense for me to jump to GFX 100s to change my shooting habit for the system. I will find a system that can work better for me. I plan to wait for EOS 5S but I don't necessarily think squeezing 90MP into a full frame makes sense. Need to actually see the testing report later. Personally I would rather to see pixel-shift enabled EOS R5 (50MP) instead

Rodders said:

Just to throw into the mix, there have been quite a few reported issues with the R5 communicating with the Godox triggers (X1Pro and X1) so you could be seeing a similar type of thing going on? For example, I used to use HSS with TTL on my 5D IV and Godox Speedlights and AD600s but it is pretty much unusable on my R5 - tends to way over expose so I have to set it all manually. You could be seeing some sort of similar thing going on maybe? even if you are using the speedling directly on the camera, I would imagine the control signals are the same as to a trigger. If you google "HSS Godox R5" you will see some similar experiences. Last I looked there hadn't been any firmware updates.

Click to expand...

I don't think this is a communications issue with the Godox flash and trigger as the results are good, see example: https://www.facebook.com/SinCityCameraGuy/posts/186774496462109 (Web view) My problem is that typically outdoors in Las Vegas, the sun is bright and there are typically few clouds in the sky (sorry people on the East coast). Especially when it is early or late in the day. The ambiance setting for the flash still does not stop the camera from taking over the natural lighting, which causes the background to be underexposed. Last weekend as I struggled with post-processing to deal with the images, it struck me that maybe I can put the flash in manual and hope the camera would ignore it. I thought about getting my Wein high voltage hot-shoe adapter out to see if that would make the camera ignore the flash but it seems that in initial testing and confirmed by Snappy604 that the camera seems to more or less ignore the Manual mode flash. As long as I ensure that I'm in sync mode inside the shutter speed range or in high-speed sync, I can manually dial in the flash power to fill in the shadows.

I'll have to search for the issues with Godox (Flashpoint) triggers but I use the Xpro-C and don't know if it's different from the X1Pro or X1. The Godox always seems to work perfectly with more power at less cost. Godox AD360ii flashes are rated for 75 full power rapid flashes before overheating which for me is a benefit. My previous flash system would overheat at around 20 flashes, which seems like a lot but is easy to hit when you're busy.