jdavidse said:

I’m glad you found peace! How do you like the screen movement?

Click to expand...

I've spent some time paying more attention to the screen movement. For me, whether on a tripod or kneeling at an odd angle, while there are a few minor restrictions to perfect positioning, the screen movement is fine in about 90% of cases. (And I like how the tips at the gap for the screen are beveled better than on the Kirk.)

But that is for stills. For video, I don't have much experience, though I did use the flippy screen to take some video of how lens IS components shift about. I placed the camera on a tripod, pointing down, and I had to come around to the front of the setup to hold and move the subject. I was able to move the screen so it was very easy to watch as the video recorded.

Sorry, but that L-plate you showed is way more complicated than I want full-time on my camera for stills, and I'd rather have a little restriction of the flip screen than any restriction around the lens barrel. (But I do like the option to protect the ports!)

Truly, the ergonomics of the R5/R6 L-plate make it a great choice for those who want to mount it and forget it. "Elegant" is the single word I go with.

Used Wasabi and Digipower and Energizer replacements for the D50 (and my G6) back in the day. Funny this came up because I just came across some of these cleaning out my "parts" drawers . And, came across two chargers! Seeing if they will still hold a charge right now. If so, will see if anyone can use them.

PFloyd said:

Any chance we'll ever see the EF 500mm f/4L IS III and/or the EF 300mm f/2.8L IS III come to fruition? Would be nice for Canon to finish the "III" line of the EF big whites (and all of them actually being the same shade of white) before abandoning the EF line. I would think that these two lenses would have been at least in some stage of development before they decided to scrap EF and go all in on RF and mirrorless, no?

Click to expand...

More likely to see those two long white fast primes out by 2023 on the RF mount before the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris.

These EF bodies are not updated on the Buyer's Guide

• Canon EOS Rebel SL3 DSLR Camera announced on 10 April 2019.
• Canon EOS Rebel T8i DSLR Camera announced on 12 February 2020.

Any chances the Buyer's Guide be arranged from newest to oldest body, lens or accessory?

Ok, so to conclude, I have placed my order. My budget is a bit tight so I have ordered the R5 Body, The RF to EF adapter, a spare battery and a Sandisk 512GB Cfextreme card. I will use the 24-105 from the 5D3 for now until I buy the 24-105 for the R5. I hope to get everything by Friday.

Wish me luck

Now I have a lot of new stuff to read up/study

Adorama has one of the few third-party lenses for the RF mount as their Deal of the Day. The Venus 12mm f/2.8 Zero-D Ultra-Wide Angle is $899 (Reg $999) today only. You can also get the lens in the EF mount.
Key Features

Lens Mount: Canon EOS RF / Canon EOS EF
Fixed Focal Length: Focal Length: 12mm
Lens Type: Wide Angle Lens
Image Stabilization: Image Stabilization: No
Special Features: Aspherical

Venus 12mm f/2.8 Zero-D Ultra-Wide Angle for EF and RF $899 (Reg $999)

Click to expand...

Continue reading...

Hi,

Looking to get input from those of you who have purchased the Canon R5 in India. Would appreciate if you could give me the following information:

1. City where you bought it
2. Dealer name
3. Price
4. Did you get a lens? If so which one and what was the price?
5. What cards did you get and at what price?

In addition I intend to get the EF to RF adapter and a spare battery or two. I think I will purchase soon so wanted to get this input.

Thanks in advance.

A couple of images taken at night from my front deck while a snow storm was tapering off. The lighting was from motion triggered LED Floodlights mounted to my front porch. I just snapped them out of curiosity as to what the night time capability of my camera was. It had my EF 100mm macro on it.

I pulled the blacks down a lot to try and hide the noise in the background. Lightroom tries to lighten it up but it was dark out. That's a tall tree so I could only get parts of it with a 100mm lens even over 100 ft away. The bird feeders were only 10 ft away. I was really pleased with the low light capability of the camera, its the best I've had.


We had about a foot of fresh snow yesterday.

I had the R for a couple weeks before returning it after hearing the R6 and R5 were coming. I loved shooting with it in the time I had it. It's even better now that you can get a good discount on it.

Is there any IBIS benefit using the R5 with the EF 400mm f/5.6 lens? If there is any stabilization improvement, does it show up in the EVF?

Holidays aren’t over yet! 60 images. This time I converted CR3’s to TIFF’s after processing in DPP4. Then I merged the TIFF’s in Affinity Photo and did some source image clean up. Finally, I used the clone brush to clean up the little that cloning source images couldn’t clean up.

Hi!
I am interested in whether the AF accuracy really depends on the shooting speed and in the point of using H+ mode for quick moving subjects ( cars, skiers) etc.
From my experience I get only about 50-70% properly sharp shots when shooting fast-moving objects that approach me like cars with H+. It looks as if the AF motor is not speedy enough to refocus between the shots and around each 2'nd or 3'd shot is to a various extent back focused. It is especially pronounced when using mechanical shutter. (in case of mechanical can it be because of the blackout, which steals the focusing time from the AF? ) The keeper rate does not really depend on the focus mode or scenario.

If I use H mode I have a bigger % of keepers. So for me its is actually not much sense in H+ mode for quick ,moving subjects, as I have pretty much the same number of keepers, just more junk with H+ that eats memory.

Does anyone have the same situation? What is your keeper rate?

New SD Card tests data for the R5, R6 and RP...

Interesting...These camera companies will be trading punches with these new camera bodies.

YuengLinger said:

I can't compare to Nikon, Panasonic, or Sony, but I can say that the R5 produces images that not only look great RAW, but are very easy to work with--even at higher ISO's. (Shadow and highlight recovery, noise clean-up, sharpening, colors.)

What surprises me above all, and should have weighed huge in any fair assessment, is the ability to use 100% crops from the R5. I've had the 5DIII and 5DIV--they do not come close. Can the brands with higher scores do this too? If so, great for them.

Here is an example of approx. 100% cropped, ISO 640, and, imo, it is perfectly usable online. They print fine for 4x6 and 5x7. I've done so. What an amazing "cheat" this can be when we don't frame optimally!

View attachment 194798

The R5 has surpassed my wildest expectations, and I've only just begun to explore its potential.

Click to expand...

I'll second your praise of the R5 regarding shadow recovery, etc., even with cRaw which is now my only way to use it as I need the smaller size files. It's really great!

My previous camera was an EM1_II, and while it had a lot of benefits it had a poor shadow recovery (IMHO) which was only saved (for me) by the use of PL3 and their "prime" noise reduction. Now I get to have an already stellar R5 file and PL4 "deep prime" noise reduction for vastly better performance. It's a great day to be a photographer!

JPAZ said:

Basically, a Gimbel, when properly adjusted, has the camera and lens balanced. One can move it with the slightest touch and not need to work against the drag of a ball head or not need to tighten / loosen a ball head. It allows for smooth movement of the camera and lens. I often prefer it for wildlife or other shots where movement is frequent. That and a rmote to keep you from shaking the camera by pushing the shutter can often really help (along with fast shutter speeds) for capturing sharp images. I think a geared head would just be too complicated for me and could remove the smoothness of motion when working at this magnification. Another thing to look into is the "hyperfocal distance" to eliminate much of the focus issues.

Anyway, that is just my opinion and how I'd approach the shot. I am sure others have alternative approaches, equally as valid and YMMV.

Click to expand...

Many thanks for the reply and advice regarding gimbel head @JPAZ I will surely try this out. I am considering buying a telescope but I like the super tele as it is versatile! I would like to explore bird photography one day too.

Many thanks and regards,
Suman

Yes I often switch between video and photo these days. I used to only do video on particular occasions as my mum and dad each have their own business so I did commercials for them on my 6D, then 6D II, then I sold all my EF lenses apart from the 24mm 1.4 II and heavily invested in RF glass and bought the R but otherwise just photos in private life mostly for fun and for my wife’s Instagram channel but since the beginning of this year I am a first time dad and having the little one makes me switch constantly between video and photo.

I really like the R6 but I still also have my R and I gotta be honest, there are certain things I do find better on the R.

I am sending the two Lexar cards back and I will get myself a 64gb Sandisk uhs-II for certain occasions like mentioned here and otherwise use my older Sandisk Extreme Pro cards I also use with the R.

AlanF said:

DxO scores are in agreement with your iso observations. The R6 is their highest rated Canon camera for iso performance and the 7DII is miserably low down, 3394 vs 1082 in the "sports" column (substantially due to the crop sensor being 1/4 of the size). DxO scores for individual aspects of sensor performance are usually fairly rational, it's the overall score where they somehow weight those components that rankles because that is subjective rather than scientific.

Click to expand...

Yes. So it seems. I should find out this afternoon when i get to do a few hours of wildlife shooting. Will post the results in a few days

Rzrsharp said:

All physical buttons can be removed.
A touch screen can do everything.

Click to expand...

Perhaps, but there are many cases where you don't want to.

Think about action photography, i.e., sports and wildlife. Things are happening quickly, and having a physical button or a click-wheel allows the photographer to find and change settings using only their fingers without having to take their attention off the action in front of them.

A touchscreen interface might allow the same settings to be changed, but it requires the photographer to focus their attention on the screen in order to find the right "button" (since there's no "feel" to it) and then slide and swipe to change settings. Great shots could be missed during that time, and that's food on the table for a working professional.

Also, all touchscreen capabilities go out the window if you're wearing gloves. Even the so-called touchscreen gloves reduce your touch accuracy.

YuengLinger said:

The R5/R6 bodies add some complexity to taking photos.

[...]

Any other examples?

Click to expand...

I don't know if it is really a new thing. It is just a result of Canon's stubbornness. For situations where some confusion may arise, they rather take a feature out.

Examples from my 80D: Not being able to use tracking and face AF and the electronic level at the same time, for example. Or not being able to use auto ISO with flash.

When you think about these, they sort of make sense. You need exposure simulation to view a histogram, because the histogram is based around the LiveView image (or the JPEG you could take at the current moment, if you will). If you turn it off, the camera may either have to display the false histogram based on the false exposure shown on the screen, or it would have to compute a second image with the right exposure, swallowing resources and causing a confusing mismatch between the image on screen and the histogram.

And something like RAW histogram isn't even an option.

Face AF and electronic level both draw a lot of stuff one the screen, so Canon probably felt it becomes to cluttered when they could both be turned on.

The flash thing has been explained to me in the past, but I still don't understand how it improves the camera to lock it down.

YuengLinger said:

Did you find your answer yet? I saw a thread on DPR about this, checked mine, and sure enough, Exposure Simulation must be Enabled, not off or only during exposure. Only the top option allows the histogram on mine to be visible in the EVF.

Click to expand...

YuengLinger said:

Did you find your answer yet? I saw a thread on DPR about this, checked mine, and sure enough, Exposure Simulation must be Enabled, not off or only during exposure. Only the top option allows the histogram on mine to be visible in the EVF.

Click to expand...

Thank you very much. No I had not found an answer.

dwarven said:

As far as I know ES doesn't let you shoot single shot. I think it's 20 fps mode only. Could be wrong since I rarely use ES.

Click to expand...

I tried in One Shot and it only takes one. Like you, I don't see much reason to use it--and especially just one shot at a time.

But a delimiter would be nice. If the actual rate can't be slowed, a menu option that allowed a set number for a burst would be better than what we have now.

I've still got my old Smith-Victor's.

Sounds like a communication problem.
The lens is an ef mount and because it's not a Canon lens, the comms protocol between the Sigma lens and the R6 is relatively slow, and as the camera won't take a shot until it gets focus confirmation from the lens - the camera won't allow high speed shutter to work.
The lens is fine for one-shot mode, but it won't focus as fast as an RF lens.

YuengLinger said:

For better or worse, it is the same on the R, R5, and R6.

I have not noticed any difference in focusing quickness or accuracy away from the center, but this is an interesting question.

Click to expand...

I guess that focus sensivity depends on the light fall-off, especially in case where focus assist is used and covers only the central area well. It is easy to check. Just try taking pics in a barely lit room in the evening.