Two things of note to clarify after reading recent posts:
1. IS can be very useful even in fast lenses that don't "need" it. First, it stabilizes the finder, which is always handy. Second, as someone who shoots bleeding-edge handheld available-dark images at ISO 25000 with my 24mm f/1.4 wide open, I will take any help I can get.
2. The myth that IS degrades image quality needs to die. Some of Canon's sharpest lenses have IS. This myth is no doubt related to the myth that adding elements to a lens degrades image quality.
IS is in more and more lenses because it improves image quality by reducing the effects of camera shake.
My pure speculation on this. I suspect the bulk of APS-C DSLR owners who buy EF lenses are buying telephoto lenses. Heck, Canon even kits some of the Rebels with EF telephotos.
Thanks for the reply.
one thing to look out for with the low price in some is that I believe canon sells the grip only WITHOUT the usb charger for the lesser price.
I've got mine set to ECO. I leave the touchscreen closed unless I need it. I turn it off immediately (if I turn off the IS to save battery, I might not remember to turn it on so just turn off the camera) if I now I'll not be taking shots for a bit (probably not necessary since it "times out" on its own) and I do almost no crimping. I've taken over 350 shots with the RF 24-105 and have battery still available.
I do wish the IS would not stay "on" and maybe a future firmware upgrade will improve that.
I have 3 batteries 'cause 1 came with the camera and I had extras from my old M days. I am planning a trip and thinking about the RP instead of my 5Div. I'd bring the RF 24-105, the EF 16-35 and the EF 100-400 vii with the RF-EF adapter. What is anyone's experience with the EF + adapter and battery life? Assuming 200-300 shots a day (and that is likely more than I'd do) and 3 batteries, would I get a couple of days worth of images between charges?
That’s why I got an R...if you just hold the R, Z6/7 and A7R, that’s the exact order of how ergonomically well designed they are IMO...the R just feels a lot better in the hand.I just got tired enough of my Sony a7r3 and ordered an R/24-105/adapter kit from B&H.. (Tried to buy locally but the store with stock doesn't take PayPal.).. For the Sony, I have the 24-105 and 70-200 F4/G zooms and Canon TS-Es in 24mm (gen.2) and 50mm (gen.3).. Will be keeping the TS-Es and the RF 24-105.. Won't be buying a tele for a while.
The R felt VERY good in my hands...MUCH better than the too-small Sony.
That's probably because EOS IX and similar cameras were a market failure.Funny, we never used to call 35mm format, "full frame" in the film era.
Absolutely. And then folks wonder why less and less value is placed on individual photographs when the skill required to produce them is diminished. Anyone can push the shutter button now and almost all the technical aspects are automated to produce a reasonable image. Next the advent of deeper AI will not only track focus but will suggest composition. While great photographers will continue to evolve and push the edges, it is the 'just average' photographers who will continue to be displaced IMHO.Sports used to be done with 4 X 5 press cameras, photography was a high skill. Automating things to bring those skills into the hands of ordinary photographers has driven the camera market. Autofocus, interchangable lenses, built-in light meters, rear lcd's, TTL viewfinders, its all about making the once difficult easier to do.
Yes, the physics is the same, but you're relying on physics at a vastly different scale. Refraction from lens elements results in separation of wavelengths on a µm-scale, refraction from an object in the field of view is not the same. From the standpoint of a subject LoCA results from reflection, not refraction. Consider: why is it that LoCA – no matter the source – shows up as purple and green? To (re)quote you (with typos corrected): "After all if one holds a gem up to theNo, I am not relying on different physics. But as I was implying and as you pointed out refraction when it comes to optics like elements can contribute to what you see. I know what the definition of CA is. What is the exact physics behind it? Is it not different wave lens reaching different portions of the lens, especially when the light is bend aggressively and not compensated accordingly? So I when I say that generally I wouldn’t put optical elements in the frame to judge CA such. As gems or glass or ice etc it is to eliminate a potential contribution to the result. After all if one holds a gem up to the life and twist it this way and that one can general manipulate it to see a verity of colors. That includes purple and green those it not? So gems do bend light and can be a cause of a higher than “usual” incident light into the lens, which one can’t attribute.
So if one is interested in sharpness, ISO 12233 charts are only useful for those interested in taking pictures of flat, printed subjects?Of course if this was shown for those interested in taking pictures of jewelery specifically I get it can be useful. But as a blunt example of CA control... eh, grain of salt.

I would suspect that this is Canon looking at future Sony a9 etc. and wanting to assure canon users that there is a real pro camera being tested right now. If too tight lipped for too long too many will jump ship and then it is hard to get them back. Just ask Nikon that is still struggling after Canon crushed them with the EF system. Nikon assumed that their pros would stick with them yet they were abandoned in droves until their pro market was left to rich amateurs rather than the pros along the sidelines and at major events.
It sounds like canon is trying to get ahead of that mass exodus.
I like the texture slider too.Concidentally, I was wondering the same thing only last week: I tweaked the clarity and thought 'Whoa! That's garish. What's happened?" I was not sure if the tool had changed because it was always touted as something that tweaks midtones to improve apparent sharpness, then I wondered if it depends on the starting image in that to get a difference on an image that has good lighting, and good small-detail contrast you need to use it more heavily. But I could not escpe the feeling it was not what it used to do.
Then as soon as I used the texture it immediately felt to me that it was what Clarity used to be like. But maybe there is some auto-suggestion coming in. Whatever is happening, I really like the effect of the texture slider.
Work all the weekends you want, you're still paying $500 just for bragging rights. Plenty of top line flashes that do the same thing for half the cost. So, one flash plus a backup, or a very nice label.
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outside of godox v1. its a good flash. i recently finally lookedat all the pros vs. a regular speedlight. it simply works a lot better. peopel that do weddings or events that require lots of flashes would understand this better than anyone else. i dont have it but i am tired of my 600 ex batteries running low, slow recycle, no fires, and hard time getting gels on and off. then i sometimes use a profoto strobe to light a room. i have to put it in slave to get it to work
Some people have no sense of humor.I said if I was a wild life photographer (I am not), I would prefer eyeAF.
Don't quote me out of context. I don't care what you use or want. You add nothing constructive to your post. Just use whatever make you happy. It just a tool. I'm not a fanboy of any brand.
Stop quoting me and respond with useless with info.
Sorry my bad i meant that i already have the speedboosterI am referring to the speed booster performance. The Canon's adapter for the M series should work perfectly as they make it. The third party speed boosters are the unknown quantity.
To make your invest a little less hurting look at the IQ comparison at TDP....
So i guess the best option would be to sell the Tamron and buy the Canon version.
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Absolutely. Taking a single frame from good video would produce a terrible still image as a general rule, as the shutter speeds required to produce good videography rarely match the shutter speed required to produce a good still in the same situation. While there are similarities in the art forms there are also massive differences.Comments like this always make me cringe. Stills and video are two very different animals. The essence of video is to capture motion and sound. It is to show subjects moving through space and time. Photography is about stopping time. Carving a split second out of the continuum and holding it up for examination. Certainly the technology of still and motion cameras have been converging, but the thought that you can simply carve out a single frame from a video and have a great picture betrays an ignorance of both still photography and video/film.
There is a remote possibility that is due to the “aging” of the camera. I have a 40D that is very reliable in AF for 4 year. After that it becomes less and less reliable.Graham,
Many thanks for digging these out.
Cheers
Stoical