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CIPA Global Camera Sales Numbers for March 2018 Released

scyrene said:
unfocused said:
scyrene said:
neuroanatomist said:
BillB said:
I don't see much reason to think that improvements in mirrorless design are going to lead to increased sales.

That's where you're wrong. If someone builds his perfect camera tailor-made to his specific needs, sales will increase by the one camera AvTvM will buy. If you want to, you could also count the millions of people who live in his imagination that will buy one, but I wouldn't recommend it.

Why is he using a sockpuppet account?

He got banned under the old name. So he started a new account.

Oh wow, I missed that! Thanks for the info. I wonder what finally tipped him over the line?

Sometimes people just snap. I heard he's a postal worker.
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EF-S 15-85mm IS USM vs EF-S 18-135mm IS V1

I've had all three versions of the 18-135mm (only have the newest Nano USM version now), as well as the 15-85mm and the 17-55mm.

I agree that the 15-85mm is the way to go, if you're after image quality. I like using it at outdoor car shows. That extra 15mm at the wide end can make a difference when things get crowded and it is difficult to back away to fit the subject in the frame. Also, you can't beat USM autofocus.

All of the 18-135mm lenses have been OK. Image quality is good enough, but it never wowed me. That 18-135mm focal length range is so useful, though, and that is why I still own one. I'd recommend going for the STM or Nano USM version if you can. I'm not a fan of focus by wire, but I remember thinking the faster and quieter autofocus was a nice upgrade when I switched from the original 18-135mm to the STM version.

The 17-55mm is fine, but I don't have any great enthusiasm for it. It's not a bad lens, but it has never impressed me. I rarely use it. I find the extra focal length range of the 15-85mm more useful than the f/2.8 of the 17-55mm. But that's just my personal preference. I also find the lens creep of the 17-55mm annoying.
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My first experience 7RIII / A7III AF accuracy & Speed on Canon 600mm lens?

XL+ said:
Sorry for the problem, Youtube has deleted the videos. I´ll upload them again.

They work great. Thank you very much for the videos!

The AF speed looks to be approximately the same as a A7RIII with various Canon telephoto lenses (or Sigma) adapted with the MC-11.

I clicked on all of them, but couldn't watch very much as the AF hunting is migraine inducing. :( The AF kind of reminds me of 90's home camcorders =X

XL+ said:
As non was able to tell me, if it works, I got an nearly new A7RIII to test it before buying. And an Metabone V adapter.
My impressions on using it on the 600mm L ISII:
IQ is very very very good, really fine details even in the corners. AF: hmmmm... this was not satisfying. In bright condition, it worked about 1/2 to 1/4 the speed as the 5D IV. If it is cloudy, or light is not so brigt, or there is low contrast, the A7RIII was "hunting" to get sharp. When I put the 1.4 III extender in, the AF got much slower and in some cases, no sharpness was found. No chance to get BIF.

I tried the A7III for about an hour, and it really doesn't seem any different than the A7RIII, except that the PDAF area is much larger (not with the 600 though!). The large PDAF area is very much appreciated, but more for consistency of behavior than anything else, because really, how often do you want an AF points close to the edges?

With adapted lenses, both seem, as you put it, not satisfying; I mean, if you have a kit >> $5k, you want it to, well, work better than that.

XL+ said:
Could not repeat the last days fastness of the lens. On the A7III the 600mm and the 100-400mm II were sloooooow. Very slow and as longer I used them, the more unsharp pictures I got. Battery was still 60%, so I do not know what happened. AF in video is faster (4k)

For still photos, you may want to consider toying with:

- Reduce the subject tracking lock (whatever they call it) to the minimum value - this seems to speed it up some... even when you're in an AF mode that theoretically doesn't have subject tracking, like single point.
- Make sure AFC, not AFS
- It is critical to set the right range limiter on the lens (like 3m - infinity, etc.)
- Make sure Metabones is in basic (not advanced) mode
- Try a Sigma MC-11; it worked better for me in almost every lens I tried (like, 8+ Canon and 3 sigma).

I found that a frustrating aspect of the Sony AF system is that it behaves differently depending on whether it's in PDAF or CDAF, and you're forced to kind of use both because the featureset for one is different than the other.

Personally, I think that adapted lenses is a waste of time for anything other super-light usage or mostly-manual-focus applications.
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third party lenses and Canon AF lens groups

OK, I still haven't got it worked out fully, but I think the answer must relate to my settings for illuminating AF points. Will play around some more and see if I can get to the bottom of it.

If anyone can explain though, please do let me know!

Also, does anyone know what lens AF group the Sigma 35 Art and 50 Art, and the Sigma 85 EX, lenses are in? Am I correct in assuming they are effectively Group A lenses?
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Patent: Quad Pixel AF and a Hybrd DSLR

CafferyPhoto said:
It definitely has an EVF which comes straight from the video signal processing circuit whereas the main display aparatus comes from the microcomputer? EVF should be blazing fast if it doesn't have to be processed.

Zoom driving circuit?? Is this for a video camera?

I m pretty sure canon not gonna change the mount for its coming FFML. there is absolutely no reason to change the mount. they can keep the flange distance. if you look at sony lenses, you will that every single lens is sort of welded to a adapter to compensate the flange distance. (even GM lenses). so I rather to carry one spacer on my camera than carry few welded to every single lens. literally save weight and space
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Patent: In Camera Focus Stacking and Image Stabilization

Mt Spokane Photography said:
CanonGrunt said:
I would guess that parts of this would end up in the cinema side as part of the next generation of DPAF as well. Looks like some of this would apply anyway.

I'm having a hard time understanding how the camera could do Cinema video with focus stacking, and say 25 frames stacked for each frame of the video. It would mean 750 fps to get a 30 fps video, and a super computer.

All future DSLR's, except the bottom of the line units will be DPAF. that would have no impact on focus stacking that I could envision. The dual pixel output option of the 5D MK IV does not change focus enough to be useful for focus stacking from my experiments.

I might be thinking of something else...
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Lee Filters and Filter Holder Protection

slclick said:
Well, actually I just saw that I use a Lowepro for my main pouch. https://store.lowepro.com/s-f-filter-pouch-100

It holds the holder and filters quite well. The Fotodiox was my previous smaller setup.

I had this pouch and used it for a while as it easily mounted to the outside of my lowepro protactic backpack and I didn't have to worry about making room for it inside the bag itself. All was fine for a while until one day trudgin through some brush and a twig or branch caught on it and all my filters dumped on to the ground! Damn thing does not shut securely and really needs to be closed with a zipper and not just a snap!

I tossed it in the garbage when I got home and replaced it with a Haida Pouch that zips shut.

I still sometimes use the Haida pouch when I go "filter shooting" but mostly I don't use many filters anymore except ND's occasionally and they are in my bag just in a tin all the time.
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Patent: More Diffractive Optics Supertelephoto Formulas

Sorry for the hijack, just addressing the mirror issue..... With an "N" of 1. I used a Sony a6500 (mirror less APC) re: viewfinder. I turned off the screen and turned on the EVF to longest "on time" and then would occasionally do the 1/2 press to keep it turned o i.e. no start up lag, etc. (30 mins if memory serves me)

Shot over 6 hours on 1 little battery, chimping on the screen certainly kills battery.
-0- black out at 11 fps (tiny stutter but was able to keep all the birds in center frame all the time)
When I shot my 1dx EVERYONE within 50 meters knew I fired off a burst. When I shot the Sony NO ONE knew, even the guy 1 meter away. Virtually silent.

SOOOOOO. if you are into wildlife, the silence is golden. (though my otter shots came from my 1dx and his curiosity which was different than I expected)

I have both a 5d3 and a 1dx. 16-35 f4, 24 art, 50 art, 70-200 II, 150 -600 tammy, 90 T/S. All EF mounts. Rented Sony a6500, 5d4, 5dsR. (re-entered photo w/ a t3i which daughter now shoots occasionally) All told, quick file counts (don't delete anything, space is cheap) have the total frames at just below 250k

Skipping the 5d4/1dx2 generation. Looking forward to the 5dsR II (if it comes outs and wouldn't be so cool if it was mirror less).

All of this is to express - go rent one. Experience it. Yea the adapter kluge affected autofocus (cool Sony has peaking) but but but but but it is clear with a tech advancing (most places) as it is EVF will outperform the mirror - can't turn up the gain on a mirror like an EVF.

My experience leads me to pine for a Canon "pro" level mirror less. Wouldn't it be cool if they advance the SOA of the EVF and stick on the 5dSr replacement AND the 1Dx3.
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...removal of cross-threaded uv filter stuck on Canon EF 17-40 f4 lens

I am going through many of my EF lenses to see how well they 'work' when connected to an M6 via an EF-EFM adapter.

A lens I only use occasionally (because the 'killer app' of the M-series--the 11-22 EF-M lens, yields great wide-angle images with the M) is the Canon EF 17-40 f4 lens; and before testing it with the M6 I attempted to remove the uv filter which has resided on the lens for at least a couple of years.

Sadly, the filter could not be removed; using Mr. Google's suggestions and trying jar top removal tools, rubber bands and leather shoelace,s and even a bit of cold weather did not enable the removal of the filter from the lens.

An individual at the bottom of this link (https://www.photo.net/discuss/threads/cross-threaded-lens-filter.438251/) described how he removed a filter that had been cross-threaded to a lens. His way worked for me, too...after I figured out that was my problem.

I took a look at the 17-40, at sure enough, the 77mm filter was on a bit crooked. With the aid of a kind of scalpel-like tool that has come in handy for taking (prying) apart watches, phones, toys and laptops, I was able to wedge the scalpel into the tiny crack between the filter and the lens...and then carefully slide it toward the other side of the lens, where there was virtually no space at all. Just a bit of wiggling...and a tiny snap (!) was heard...and easily removal of the uv filter was accomplished.

...this post is hopefully an unneeded tip for CR readers--you've helped me plenty.

Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L IS II Coming Very Soon

slclick said:
Michael Clark said:
slclick said:
hollybush said:
vscd said:
I think a f4-Lens is ok for some people, let's say hobbyists, but most want the 70-200, simply to get a better depth of field and especially to use teleconverters like 1.4x or 2.0x.

Let's not say "hobbyists", because the lens is used by landscape photographers, including one I know of who does actually earn his living from landscape photography. As has already been said, it's a lighter lens to carry than an f/2.8. Landscape photographers usually shoot stopped down, many or most of them all the time.

I'm with you as there are many folks whom act as if all lenses should be fast, never used at narrower apertures and all that jazz. It's not all portraits and shallow DoF guys.

It's not all about hiking for miles to shoot landscapes from tripods at narrow apertures, either. For many of us, it is about some combination of both.

The thing is, though, you can always stop down an f/2.8 lens to f/4, f/8, or f/11. You can't open up an f/4 lens to f/2.8 when you want/need to. That makes the f/2.8 lens more versatile.

The price you pay for that versatility is in size, weight, and cost.

It's up to each shooter to decide if the extra functionality of an f/2.8 lens versus an f/4 lens is worth those things.

It's up to each shooter to decide if adding a 70-200/4 for use when size/weight may be more important than maximum aperture to a kit that already contains a 70-200/2.8 is worth the cost.

Yes, a very obvious counterpoint to my post. I am aware you can do more with more, it's just some can do very wonderful things with less. Although contrary to the ever popular GAS, 'Less is More' is also a very common although outdated photography axiom. Furthermore, I would never suggest that an f/4 version for an f/2.8 owner would be have a place in very many shooters kits, only a select few.


Why can't we agree to agree? I had the f/4L IS and then picked up the f/2.8L IS ll with the intention of selling the f/4. I didn't and I'm not going to. The f/4 gets brought along 75% of the time, but when you need 2.8, you need 2.8. I have the 100-200mm focal length very well covered...
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The TIPA and EISA Award Winners Have Been Announced

tallrob said:
I heard the same tripe from my fellow pro shooters back when I bought my 6D as an upgrade to my 5Dii. They were all happy to pay $1000 more, and laughed at my cheaper, lighter, wifi enabled, better IQ... HEY! Once they found out the absence of the moire filter resulted in better IQ, they stopped laughing. And they were jealous of the wifi as they fumbled over their cables for tethering. Try getting a remote shot on a boom 15 feet in the air without a trigger or usb cable attached. No chance. And I used the money I saved to get my first Sigma Art lens. Sweet little piece of glass.

"Professionals" love to carry around their white L lenses and latest body upgrades so people know they're "pro". I'm perfectly confident my work shows my level of professionalism, not my gear. I'm actually glad the 6Dii wasn't such an improvement over the 6D, because I almost got sucked into the mythical DR craze, even though I've never had a complaint with the 6D's shadow detail on a sunny day, where the scene matches exactly what my eye saw. (HDR is overrated, ladies and gents). So I saved another $2000 not upgrading, and I'm still perfectly happy with my 6D.

That said, I'm certain all the hating on the 6Dii is just as much b.s. as it was five years ago.

I don't keep up with these things that much, but hasn't the original 6D suddenly become wonderful in the eyes of the haters now that they have the 6D2 to hate?

BTW, I noticed the other day when looking at metadata that the autoexposure had finally, after seven months, shot a picture on my 6D2 at ISO 100. I didn't see anything wrong with it, though.
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