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The Photography Show - Birmingham, UK

So no surprises thus far for The Photography Show for stands D141 / E131 in Hall 5.
Canon will be showing the recently announced trio of the EOS M50, EOS 2000D and EOS 4000D plus the new Speedlite 470EX-AI. Canon have also announced in time for the show their spring cash-backs (which normally are doubled on certain products at The Photography Show) and for the first time the EOS 5D MKIV fall below
£ 3,000. Canon will have 50 members of staff on-hand and being showing over 200 products to touch and try. Back again are the Canon Live Stage and the Canon Lifestyle Zone giving advice on online services, apps, wireless printing and merchandise.

I'm particularly interested in the new Speedlite 470EX-AI and will be taking my EOS 6D MKII to try it.

Is there a better way to switch between BR strap and tripod?

I use an AcraTech "Swift Clamp"

This is the product at the manufacturer's site but you can get it from the major camera stores.

https://www.acratech.net/quick-release-clamps/swift-clamps/

This allows me to leave whatever arca-swiss type mounting plate I want to use on the camera. E.g. if you want to use an L-bracket ... you can do that because the Swift Clamp is the mounting saddle (you no longer use the tripod mounting bolt).
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In praise of what we Germans call "Edelschrott"

axtstern said:
...
My drill in past was to ... and I feel a little guilty for how I have treated my equipment.
...
I can feel with you, acting sometimes quite the same.
Something quite helpful is to have the lens hood mounted. This helps a little bit from getting the front element (or filter) scratched or broken ;-)

[quote author=axtstern]
... tempted to throw the 35mm after the Artist just to get his attention.
[/quote]
Glad you didn't do that.
Just imagine camera equipment was forbidden in even more events because of potential use as a weapon. :P ;)
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Probably impractical idea I came up with to improve low-light focusing

Talys said:
9VIII said:
I've always wondered what would happen if I drilled a hole in the middle of my mirror.

Given the spread of line detecting elements on the AF sensor I'm betting it would actually have to be a series of perforated lines at very specific angles across most of the mirror, or maybe it would work best if the mirror were more of a mesh that reflected just enough image up to the viewfinder to be able to tell what you're pointing at?

The idea probably would work, and no-one would want to use it.


This picture actually says it all :) Light passes straight throught he mirror, hits another mirror, and is reflected downwards on an angle to the sensor.


Which we can be pretty sure will accomplish nothing once you look at the layout of an AF sensor: https://www.the-digital-picture.com/Photography-Tips/canon-eos-dslr-autofocus-explained.aspx
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Elinchrom announces the ELB 500 TTL: The world’s most powerful portable TTL flash system

hne said:
HSS works by extending flash duration and HS works by chopping it.

Not quite. Both try to make the flash emit light for as long as the shutter blades travel.

The light time needed is always one third stop longer than the max x-sync speed.

The shutter blades always travel at the same speed, no matter if you shoot at
30 seconds or 1/8000 seconds exposure time. The difference is the gap between
the two. At X-sync, the gap is exactly as wide as the frame.

One stop shorter, and the gap is only half as wide, so half the flash light
does not reach the sensor but instead is wasted on the shutter blades.

This counts for both HSS and Hypersync (and it's copies).

Select another stop shorter, and the shutter gap is halfed again,
and again the light is burnt on the shutter blades but does not
reach the sensor. And so on. No matter if you use HSS or Hypersync,
both burn the majority of light onto the shutter blades. Period.

The Elinchrom marketing claim is badly misleading, to say the least.

hne said:
When you turn on HSS you lose a stop, give or take.

The same counts for Hypersync. Simply activating either of the two means
that the flash starts emitting light before the shutter blades start, and still
lights a small time after the shutter has closed again.

This extra preroll and postroll time cannot be used for the exposure, for
both techniques.

On top of that every stop shorter in shutter speed halves the gap between
shutter blades compared to a longer stop and thus kills another stop.

Both HSS and Hypersync are workarounds that will die when global shutters
become available for flash sync as well.

hne said:
HS (or SuperSync, HyperSync, ...)
(...)
The shorter shutter speed you use with HS, the smaller the part of the flash output curve you use.

No. You don't chop anything out. The flash fires free until the minimum discharge
voltage of the capacitor is reached and the plasma in the flash tube dies.

hne said:
HSS and HS give exactly the same possibilities of stopping fast motion, since they
both make a flash behave like a continuous light source.

That is correct.
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Canon U.S.A. Lends Its Support to Women Photograph, an Initiative Created to Promote the Representat

Re: Canon U.S.A. Lends Its Support to Women Photograph, an Initiative Created to Promote the Represe

lexaclarke said:
ethanz said:
I wonder when there will be interest from more females to join this kind of forum lol
Um, hi there.


This is pretty good of Canon but it smells of PR stunt. Like, they could have done lots more than they have to encourage female photographers before. If they want to make a difference they should be starting these things earlier and do them all the time, not just put out a press release on International Womens' Day when every company is under pressure to say something like this.

When I go to the photo expos and trade shows in this country the Canon stand is only ever staffed by men and if you do see a woman there she's either a model brought in to have the new camera pointed at or she's a generic event staffer who was assigned by the building. It's off putting. Olympus and Sony and Fujifilm always have at least one female pro at their stands. Canon and Nikon never do. 700 female journalists is a start but it's not enough and it's only in one field of photography.

Welcome to the forum!
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Venus Optics launches the Laowa 25mm F2.8 2.5-5X Ultra Macro

Chaitanya said:
Cochese said:
I'm sure the lens is fine, but I really hate the design of it.
That design is similar to how MP-E 65mm works. Only benifit of this lens is that its quite a bit smaller and lighter.

More importantly, it's *cheaper*. (But of course it has some deficiencies compared to the MP-E).
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Which Canon 85mm Lens is for You?

cayenne said:
Is there some sort of problem with the Canon 85mm f/1.2 lenses?

I've been reading this thread, and multiple people have been talking about trading theirs in before "costly" repairs are needed.

I'd not heard these lenses had any particular problems or short shelf lives.....?

Can someone fill me in on this?

I got the 85mm 1.8 as one of my first lenses, bang for the buck type thing.

But have been eyeballing a 85mm 1.2 in the relatively near future.

I was thinking of picking one up off Canon Refurbs for the 85mm 1.2, but if there's some sort of inherit problem with them, I may re-think this.

Thanks in advance!!

cayenne

After deciding to keep my 1.4L IS, I made the decision to sell the 1.2L II for two reasons. Firstly, I believed that the resale value of the 1.2L II was good and might not get better. Secondly, I did not want to keep a lens that added very little in IQ or "character," yet exposed me to a fairly high potential repair bill. I don't have any reason to believe the 1.2L II is more prone to problems than other L lenses, but it is unique in its implementation of AF, and its rear element is flush against the back of the assembly. And it's a whole lot of glass crammed into a tight space!

If I remember correctly, lensrentals actually posted a typical cost-of-repair in this forum, but I could not find that post to share with you. You might contact them for the information, or another member here might find the post. As a CPS member, I'm well aware of repair costs generally, but fortunately never needed to send in my 1.2L.

My decision to replace the 1.2L II with a lens that has, say, 95% of its IQ "magic" plus IS and much quicker AF doesn't need a whole lot of further explanation.
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Northlight reviews the TS-E 135mm F4L Macro

YuengLinger said:
keithcooper said:
aceflibble said:
Shame there's no portrait examples, 'cause that's where this lens is most interesting. Had a play with the 90mm for portraits and product and it's definitely superb for the latter—I have ordered two for that purpose—but 90mm is just a little too short for a tight headshot. Been trying to get hold of the 135 to test, but it seems like they're snapped up the moment they land on these shores.

To be honest, it's also a lens I'd just never think of using for portraits, all that sharpness... I'd much rather have the Canon 135/2 (if I did such work) Any use of tilt just looks too gimmicky for my tastes, but YMMV, and if you got that much spare cash why not ;-)

Canon marketing, not seeing it as "gimmicky," says:

"The following thoughts connect both the TS-E 90mm f/2.8L Macro lens, and the stunning TS-E 135mm f/4L Macro lens. The longer focal length of the latter is the primary distinction between them, although some may desire the faster f/2.8 maximum aperture of the 90mm lens.

Portraits
This may be the biggest potential application to consider for a tilt-shift lens. Aside from being superbly sharp 90mm and 135mm lenses, the ability to use shift to alter the plane of what’s in sharpest focus — either expanding the range of sharpness, or conversely using “reverse tilt” and narrowing it to a small sliver of the subject — gives these lenses visual control which simply cannot be duplicated by conventional portrait-length telephoto lenses. "

( http://learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2017/tilt-shift-lenses-applications.shtml )

135mm does seem to be compositionally too tight to take advantage of the benefits and effects of tilt-shift, but having never used any tilt-shift, I'd really like to see a comparison to a slightly wider focal length for portraiture.

Yes, I can see a few uses that might not look too awful - but I'm afraid people pics are unlikely to become part of my reviews ;-)
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Canon updates the 15-45, 18-150 and 55-200mm for the M50's Dual Sensing IS

neuroanatomist said:
3kramd5 said:
Did you really need to invent another term for SLR? You’ve been using mirrorslapper for quite some time now, but mirrorflicker? Really?

Perhaps we should start referring to MILCs as mirror-challenged cameras, as a politically correct way to acknowledge their evident disability. :P

ILM-CCs? Haha, that's a good one!

And how do (should) we call those folks who lack any photograhical knowledge and still post like hell?
FWLAPKASPLHs?

;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

No, that's not PC, maybe knowledge-challenged folks who still post like hell?

K-CFWSPLH?

;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Question about 5DMK IV 4k Files (workflow)

MagnumJoe said:
Hello All,
I have a couple of question about 4k video from my 5D MK IV.

1. I'm using a 2016 MacBook Pro and when I check get info in (QuickTime) from the 4k file it shows the color profile is PAL (1-1-6); but if the its a file I shot in 1080p it shows HD (1-1-1). When I see PAL I think of the TV format in Europe. I wanted to make sure I don't have a setting set wrong somewhere. Again this is only in 4k 23.98p ALL-I .MOV.

2. Working with MPEG 4k files; I find if I import the video files in FCP-X first then export them with Apple ProRes 422 the files are much easier to work with in Premiere Pro the application I more familiar with and it seems it faster than importing them in Premiere Pro as Proxies and then editing them. Will I loose any information doing it this way?

Thank you,
Joe

Not sure about the first question. 23.98 isn't a traditional PAL framerate, though.

With the second question, if you're proxy editing anyway, can't you just lose the transcode step and still retain full quality in your finished footage.

To my way of thinking you have two options there; either transcode to ProRes 4:2:2 and edit that directly in your NLE of choice. Or set up a proxy edit workflow and skip the transcode step.
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PetalPixel: How CPS Saved the Day and My Photo Job

kaptainkatsu said:
cayenne said:
I've been contemplating signing up for CPS...I more than have the lenses/equipment for the upper levels.

I have a big shoot coming up first weekend of May.

I think I need my 5D3 looked at....at times, using back button focus (this happened with default focus settings too)...the selected focal point doesn't beep or flash red....and I'm finding often I'm missing focus.

But it is not consistent....and I can go from beep to no beep in same lighting with same target at times...

I'm wondering if it would be worth sending the body in with my main lenses, the 24-70 2.8 II, and the 70-200 2.8 II....and letting them look them over and see if anything needs adjusting, tuning..cleaning....etc.

Just looking for info and advice from folks that have used CPS...I'm not quite sure what all is offered by them, and what turnaround time is....

Thanks in advance,

cayenne

CPS received my camera and lens, cleaned it, checked it over, and shipped it back to me overnight the same day they got it. If I had overnighted my camera, I would have had it back in two days.


Thank you for the reply!!
Can you tel me what level of CPS you have for that level of service?

Can you send them the body and 2x lenses?

Thank you in advance,

C
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Canon, King in SLR Cameras, Makes Inroads Into Mirrorless

C-A430 said:
ritholtz said:
Talys said:
ritholtz said:
Video seems to be good until they start moving camera. I think 1 to 1 pixel crop for 4k produces good quality for the targeted users. But no dpaf is a downer. I wish, they will solve one of this problem (crop or dpaf) at least instead of punishing users twice.

I agree that no DPAF is a downer. But this is a $740 camera. I think it's fine in that context, because you must expect to bump into some limitations at that price.

I would say the two downers are no Eye AF in AI Servo mode (I think) and no DPAF in 4k video mode.

But both would be good incentives to buy the next version up. Also, something to let Sony come in with a competitor at that price point -- as a6300/a6500 are much more expensive. And well, Nikon needs to get their act together for live view AF before they're part of that discussion.
For me only thing missing is DPAF. I can live with the 4k crop. I have used crop (digital zoom) feature with my SL2. It gave me reach to shoot some stage play. Unfortunately there is no dpaf when this functionality used with SL2 as well.

Why is no DPAF an issue? M50 is using phase detection AF in 4K, just as α6500. In 1080p it has DPAF, something no one has matched yet.

Sony and Panasonic NEVER use DPAF. Am I missing something?



Sony’s latest OSPDAF methodology is somewhere between masked pixels and split pixels. Theoretically it might improve well capacity relative to both of those technologies. There is some indication it is being used in cameras like a7iii.

http://www.techinsights.com/about-techinsights/overview/blog/survey-of-enabling-technologies-in-successful-consumer-digital-imaging-products/ said:
Dual PDAF

It is a reasonable assumption that both masked PDAF and dual-PD-based systems could exhibit degraded performance in low-light conditions. In the case of masked PDAF, the lower fill factor of partially-masked apertures results in photon loss, as compared to a non-masked neighbor. In the case of dual PD, the twin PDs would require isolation from one another and the surrounding structures. The additional isolation results in an overall reduced full well capacity, as compared to a single PD implemented in the same pixel size.

Recent back-illuminated Sony chips have been found to use a new type of PDAF system that could be described as lossless. The 1.0 µm pixel generation Exmor RS chip in the Apple iPhone 7 Plus used a 1x2 microlens structure over two of eight pixel pairs in selected green-blue rows [16]. The wide microlenses cover a green filter in the Bayer pattern and a green replacement filter in the neighboring blue position. Two of 64 pixels in an 8x8 block use this lens structure and these blocks are distributed across ~95% of the active pixel array. A similar implementation of 1x2 microlenses were found in use in the Sony IMX398 from the Oppo R9s and have been dubbed “Dual PDAF”.

Found via https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/60859607, where there is some fascinating analysis and discussion.
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New case manufacturer - RTIC

Will be interesting to see what happens. RTIC just settled a patent infringement lawsuit with another company (Yeti) and at least, as far as hard coolers are concerned, the RTIC product does look identical to the other company's cooler. If these hard cases are a reasonable way of protecting our gear with the same type of "indestructiveness" as Pelican, then I will be taking a look. Plus, the new guys may just drive down the cost of the Pelican cases through competition.

But, if they are just a reverse engineered knockoff of what is considered by many to be the best, I'd rather not support the folks who rip-off Pelican's work.
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Patent: Canon 5 Layer UV, IR, RGB Sensor

jrista said:
Orangutan said:
jrista said:
Pixel size doesn't matter for low light performance. Total sensor area and quantum efficiency matter. It doesn't matter how finely you divide the light your receiving and converting into free charge. If you increase the amount of light your receiving (more total sensor area) and increase the rate of incident photon strikes to electron conversions, then you have better high ISO performance. It wouldn't matter if you had 10mp, 50mp, 120mp, or 500mp.

I get this, but I've wondered whether there might be some truth to the myth, though not in the way many people imagine. While I accept that your explanation is true, it applies when using identical tech throughout the sensor. I've wondered whether it's disproportionately more expensive to make high-density sensors and whether some compromises would be made to keep the costs of the higher MP sensors within reason. The practical result would be that higher MP had worse low-light performance, but only because it's not identical sensor tech.

There has certainly been a LOT of research into making smaller sensors (which pretty much always have smaller pixels) more sensitive to light. That research undoubtedly has cost billions. That said, most of the research into making better small pixels has been done to make ultra tiny sensors viable...the kinds of 1/3" down to around 1/8" sized sensors found in small compact cameras, tablets, phablets, phones, and every other device that uses a microscopic sensor. Each of those sensors is usually a tiny fraction of the cost of one APS-C or FF sensor, though, despite having considerably smaller pixels (between 1 to 2 microns these days, with a new generation of sub-micron pixel sensors coming very soon.)

The reason those sensors have problems with noise, again, isn't because of the small pixels...its the small sensor area. They are WAY smaller than even an APS-C. A couple orders of magnitude smaller at least, if not many more. To have enough pixels to be useful on such small sensors, the pixels themselves have to be tiny. That doesn't increase noise...all it means is that the sensor is "resolving" and/or "exhibiting" noise at a higher frequency. Blend a 2x2 matrix of pixels together with a median algorithm, and you would have the same noise as a sensor with pixels twice as large (linearly, 4x as much area...again, assuming similar tech, however within a given generation of cameras, sensor tech is usually very similar). These tiny sensors in tiny cameras in all the tiny devices we have these days perform so well because they actually use significantly better technology that what is found in our DSLRs. These tiny cameras employ some cutting edge science to increase their light gathering capacity, increase photodiode surface area, increase quantum efficiency, use per-pixel memories to increase charge capacity, etc. If a full-frame DSLR had the same kind of technology as a 1/8" sensor, we would have something like a 864mp 15fps ISO 1.6 million megapixel MONSTER that used color splitting (rather than color filtration) with at least 24 stops of dynamic range thanks to multi-bucket memories, digital readouts, black silicon (basically silicon that uses the same general technology as nanocoated lens elements to eliminate reflection), and a host of other advancements. A full-frame sensor in a DSLR that used the same technology as the microsensor used in the upcoming iPhone or Android would be utterly mind blowing. (Not to mention space guzzling...we would need a new kind of storage technology to handle 2.7Gb per RAW. :))

BTW, when I talk about noise in this context, I am pretty much referring to random sources of noise. That is primarily photon shot noise, as well as a bit of random noise from dark current and the random component of read noise. Pattern noise, which is always due to the electronics, is a different story. That is a matter of specific technological construction, materials, and sensor design. Pattern noise is usually buried very deeply within the signal, though, and unless your lifting your shadows by many stops, it is usually a non-factor. Photon shot noise and dark current are really the big ones. In normal photography, dark current is pretty much inconsequential, as CDS takes care of it (in astrophotography, dark current can be your worst enemy, as it accumulates with time....ugh...)

Its this difference in noise frequency...all noise frequency, particularly random noise frequency, where image normalization matters (LTRLI will like this). Dynamic range is talked about a lot, however it's usually talked about in the context of editing latitide: "How many stops can I lift my shadows?" That is certainly a factor of dynamic range, and clearly the one that everyone cares about today. Increasing dynamic range in such a way that you gain editing latitude means reducing read noise such that the original RAW, unscaled or anything like that, has less noise in the shadows, thereby increasing the usable range of bit depth in the RAW image. Dynamic range is also affected by other sources of noise than just the pattern read noise, however. All random sources of noise affect it as well, though, and that includes random noise introduced during read as well as the primary source of random noise, photon shot noise.

In order to compare noise of cameras with different size sensors, one must normalize their outputs. Scale them to the same size. It really doesn't matter if you scale up or down, however scaling down to a common target is usually the approach taken. Assuming you downsampled the images from a number of cameras all with different sensor sizes, but all with the same pixel count, to the same image size, say an image with 2000 pixels on the long side, you'll find that the larger the sensor, the lower the noise. If we instead had a set of cameras where the larger sensors had fewer pixels and smaller sensors had more pixels, again we would still see that the larger sensor had less noise...however we would also find that the smaller sensors had more detail. The thing about detail is, especially when there is a lot of it, it tends to drown out noise. This is a perceptual matter...the noise of the smaller sensors with smaller pixels is still higher, statistically speaking (i.e. if it was measured), however that higher level of noise would be more readily recognized when it occurs in smooth areas, gradients and solid areas (i.e. background boke).

The perceptual factor is difficult to nail down, it's highly subjective, but it does play a role in whether we as humans THINK one camera is noisier than another. This is actually one of the big problems with the 7D. It still has a very high resolution sensor...it's pixels are still a lot smaller than those of the 5D III, 6D, and most other DSLRs on the market with the exception of less than a handful (i.e. the 70D, a couple Nikon APS-C cameras). The reason the 7D is perceived as noisy is because it has a tendency to be a bit soft. It's got a "strong" AA filter (personally, I think it's just right for the job it was designed to do, but it does blur more than a lot of AA filters on newer cameras these days), and that strong AA filter eliminates a certain amount of high frequency detail...high frequency detail that would otherwise drown out noise. (The other problem is that the 7D doesn't actually gather as much light as newer counterparts, even including some of the lower end Rebels that ended up with the same sensor...the 7D can only gather a charge of about 20ke- per pixel, vs. say the 70D, which gathers nearly 27ke- per pixel...per SMALLER pixel, which indicates the 70D is gathering almost 50% more light than the 7D within the same sensor area). The 7D isn't necessarily much noisier than its counterparts and competitors...it just SEEMS noisier because it's a bit softer, and that softer detail has a harder time drowning out noise with meaningful information. I also think, in practice, that the 7D's noise is more difficult to clean up, as photon shot noise isn't "crisp" and just per-pixel...it kind of "bleeds" into multiple pixels (probably because of the AA filter).

Anyway, when it comes to sensors of the same size, the biggest differences are usually quantum efficiency and read noise (and, for some applications, dark current). The Sony Exmor, for example, is a superior sensor in all three of those categories. It has quite a bit more Q.E. than any Canon sensor (by as much as 15%), it has significantly lower read noise, and it actually also has less dark current (which only really matters for longer exposures.) Full frame Exmors are still the same area as the sensors in the 5D III and 1D X, but they gather a lot more light, and they introduce far less noise into the deep shadows. That's the only real difference. Assuming one created an exposure where the lowest pixel level was well above the read noise floor...you would find little of significant difference between cameras with these sensors that actually had anything to do with the sensor (you would find differences, but if you really looked into the reasons for those differences, I am willing to bet good money you would find the AF system, metering system, frame rate, and ability of the photographer to work quickly with the camera to change settings, find their subject, focus it, etc. as the key factors driving the differences in IQ.

I had an increasingly tough time with my 7D getting it to focus consistently...using the 5D III is EFFORTLESS...it practically works itself, and when I need to do anything, it's like it knows my mind. It's that factor right there, the ability to expend little effort using a camera to get good results, that makes Canon king of the DSLR. Canon is at the pinnacle of DSLR design. Their current generation of cameras are truly exquisite when it comes to making it easy, making it effortless, for the photographer to be a photographer, instead of a camera operator. I put off the 5D III for a good long while, largely because I wanted to see what the 7D II turned out to be. I rather regret that decision now, as even if the 7D II turns out to be phenomenal, and is just as effortless to use as the 5D III or 1D X...I spent an extra year hassling around with the 7D when I didn't really have to.

If you want low noise, go with a bigger frame, regardless of pixel count or size. If you want more detail, go with a smaller frame and more pixels. That's all that should really go into the decision making of whether to get a FF camera or an APS-C camera. Once you've picked one of those two things, then it's time to figure out what of all the other features will best serve your needs...and in my experience, it's all those other factors that are WAY, WAY more important. "Effortless"....that should really be Canon's new ad campaign. That's what Canon's current cameras do for you...they make photography effortless. I couldn't really give a crap about the minutia IQ when I can just point and shoot and the camera just does what I need it to.

Pixel size does affect full well capacity, which directly affects dynamic range.
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OpticalLimits reviews the Canon EF-M 18-55 STM IS and EF-M 55-200mm STM IS

I agree with all those who have said we are seeing sample-to-sample lens variation. For example, my copy of the EF-M 55-200mm lens may be the sharpest of the M lenses I have (those also include the 11-22mm, the 22mm, and the 18-55mm). I have tested it against my EF 70-200mm f4 IS on a 6DII and it takes pixel peeping to see any difference when each is stopped down a stop or two from maximum aperture. I just got lucky with this particular lens, I guess.
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