Which Budget EF Prime?

Why are you looking for better than f2?
If it is for low light, that DXII vs your 5DII makes up the difference in high ISO performance.
If it is for dof and bokeh, OK.

I think you should get a new 50 1.8 and treat it like the semi-disposable thing it is. When you've mistreated it to the point of your current copy, get another. Anything else is more expensive, and I'm feeling budget is your true constraint.
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Sony now #2 in FF camera sales in US

ahsanford said:
Curious to see everyone's thoughts. I think it's principally an enthusiast push fueled by 2/3/4 above, but I could be wrong.

You forgot:

7) In order to generate a buzz, one manufacturer cherry-picked data from a brief one- to two-month period, which also happens to coincide with the slowest months of the year for retail sales.
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Headed to Paris with Camera Gear

Ladislav said:
It's 2017. Where there any changes in Paris related to camera gear, photography permits, backpacks, tripods etc?

I will have whole 3 days in Paris at the beginning of April just for photography sightseeing. I plan to visit the main landmarks although I may not necessarily go inside if I will not be able to keep my backpack (I don't like leaving it in coat room) or take pictures. I like architecture and cityscape photography.

This is not my first visit so I've been already to plenty of places but it will be my first visit targeted to photography.

Btw. any recommendation for interesting places, time of the day and good vantage points?

My wish list currently contains:
- Arc de Triomphe
- Eiffel Tower
- Place de la Concorde
- Le Palais Royal
- Louvre
- Notre-Dame - including Tower and Crypt tours
- Le Centre Pompidou
- Montparnasse Tower
- Les Catacombes de Paris
- Sacré-Cœur
- Place de la Bastille
- Panthéon
- Some riverbank walk

I intentionally didn't include Palace of Versailles because I don't think I will have enough time to spend a day there.

I visited Paris last week. The trip was combination of business (Tuesday and Wednesday) and few days of holiday. I chose to do holiday before the business (Saturday - Monday) to avoid Easter weekend. I also had Tuesday evening for photo walks.

I ended with completely different list of places I visited. I bought a 4 day museum pass (I'm not sure I would recommend that as a good value) and this influenced a lot choices of landmarks to visit. I didn't go for combo pass or Paris pass because they are not good value at all and I didn't use public transport - I walked about 70km during those 3-4 days and did a lot of Uber rides. This was influenced by the fact that RER route near my hotel was closed on Saturday and Sunday. I skipped most of major landmarks (Eiffel Tower, Louvre, Versailles, Sacré-Cœur) as I would like to visit them with my wife.

I visited (all these places allowed photography without flash and tripod):
  • Musée d'Orsay - no backpack allowed but it can be left in cloakroom. The best art gallery I have ever visited. I will definitely visit it again when I travel to Paris with my wife.
  • Sainte-Chapelle - I liked it more than Notre-Dame
  • Conciergerie
  • Notre-Dame - including Crypt. I'm still angry that I didn't make it to Towers but the queue was enormous
  • Arc de Triomphe - no backpack allowed, no place to store it
  • Panthéon - no backpack allowed, no place to store it and no information about it on the website!
  • Montparnasse Tower - first observation tower / deck where I was able to use tripod. It is bit tricky because it is very windy up there and floor is wooden. If you want to have a good spot for evening / sunset shots you need to arrive early.
  • Saint-Étienne-du-Mont - beautiful church next to Panthéon
  • Les Invalides - army museum and Napoleon's Tomb. The museum is not so much interesting for photography as everything is behind the glass and there are a lot of unwanted reflections but it was awesome anyway.
  • Palais de la Découverte - the biggest disappointment. It is science museum but if you don't speak French, it has very little value for visiting. Even the building itself was under scaffolding. I was allowed my backpack but I had to leave tripod in a cloakroom.

Apart from those places where I went inside, I also visited a lot of other areas and took pictures of many other landmarks like:
  • Eiffel Tower - a lot of pictures from different places
  • Place de la Concorde - half of buildings behind the square were under scaffolding
  • Louvre Pyramid and Louvre Palace
  • Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel
  • Pont des Arts
  • Pont Neuf
  • Pont Alexandre III
  • Pont de Bir-Hakeim
  • Flame of Liberty
  • Statue of Liberty
  • Petit Palais - I wanted to go inside but backpacks were not allowed
  • Grand Palais
  • Luxembourg gardens and palace

I did a lot of walking around Trocadéro, River bank and Champs-Élysées. On Monday I went without my backpack to visit Arc de Triomphe, Panthéon and Army museum.

Security was tight. Plenty of police officers with submachine guns and even soldiers with assault rifles around areas like Notre-Dame and Army museum. There was Paris marathon on Sunday and terrorist attack happened just two days before in Stockholm so it could influence the amount of security.

Even with so much security units around, security checks were as vague as they could and I simply didn't see any real value in them because if someone really wanted to pass weapon or something worse, those checks would not stop it. That makes them even more annoying. You generally need to show content of your backpack everywhere you enter - that includes plenty of shops as well.

Security screenings have another negative. If you buy a museum pass or another free entry which promises you fast lines to enter selected museums, you may find out that it is only to skip lines for tickets but you will wait in the same queue as others for security check => makes the benefit equal to zero.
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5D MkIV battery % is easily thrown off, shows lower than actual life left

Michael Clark said:
Keep in mind that if you put a Canon LP-E6 battery or one of its clones into the charger with more than about 90% power remaining it will not charge at all. The chip will be reset to show 100% power and 0 frames shot. But no energy will be added to the battery. So when you start using it the camera will show an initial reduction in power very rapidly. To get a full recharge you should wait until the battery has less than 70% before charging.

In my experience, high quality third party batteries outperform the OEM batteries from Canon over the long haul.

I have four camera bodies that use variants of the LP-E6: A 5D Mark II purchased in 2011, a 7D purchased in 2012, a 5D Mark III purchased in 2014, and a 7D Mark II purchased in 2014. With each camera purchase I also bought at least a couple of extra third party batteries and rotated the OEM and third party batteries equally through the cameras.

Of the OEM LP-E6 batteries supplied with each of them the following is their current condition:

2011 - Recharge performance shows one *red* bar. The battery only lasts 60-80 shots in the 5D II it was supplied with. When it was new I could routinely shoot 600-800 frames and still had 40-50% left at the end of an all day shoot. (I no longer use this battery other than to charge and then test it occasionally.)
2012 - Battery was misplaced circa 2014. It was still performing well in use but the recharge performance had already dropped to two of three green bars.
2014 - Recharge performance currently shows two green bars and lasts about 80% as long as it did when new.
2015 - (LP-E6N) Recharge performance currently shows two green bars and lasts about 85-90% as long as it did when new.

I currently also own 5 MaximalPower (available only from amazon) LP-E6 batteries with white labels purchased in 2011-2012, 2 MaximalPower LP-E6 batteries with dark gray labels purchased in 2014, 2 STK LP-E6 batteries purchased in 2015, and one Watson LP-E6N I got (as a freebie w/camera purchase from B&H) in 2015. All ten of the third party batteries still show three green bars when the recharge performance is displayed. It may be that they won't ever actually change the displayed value. I can't say for sure because every one of them still works somewhere between as well as to much better than the OEM Canon batteries that are the same respective ages.

The 5 older MPs (2011-12 vintage) are showing their age a bit and last about 80-85% as long as they did when new and their performance was about the same as the OEM batteries at the time. They were used heavily until the two newest cameras were purchased in 2014-15.
They communicate perfectly with the 5DII and 7D. They do not communicate percentage, number of frames, or serial number with the 5DIII and 7DII, but they still power them for about 80% as long as my newer batteries do. I no longer regularly shoot with the 7D and I use the 5DII sparingly when in a three body setup, so those 5 batteries rotate through a single 5DII that currently sees only lighter use.

The 2 LP-E6 MPs (2014 vintage) communicate perfectly with the 5DIII and 7DII. They now last longer than the 2 OEM Canon batteries that are the same age or newer. The two I have are labeled 'LP-E6 2,000 mAh' but the same SKU at amazon is now labeled on the battery as 'LP-E6N 2,000 mAh'.
The 2 STK LP-E6 (2015) batteries communicate perfectly with the 5DIII and 7DII. They are marked "2600 mAh" and while they do last longer than the 1865 mAh LP-E6N that came with the 7DII, they don't last 40% longer. The difference is more like 10-15% and has been since all were new.

I have used third party batteries since my 5D-OG. No worries at all. Chinese batteries only held about a 75% charge but that was expected. The Wasabi's were very kind to me.

Since I sold my 5D3 and 7D2, my Wasabi's have shown a marked decline in life in my 5D4. About 10% per night!! When I plug them in at 75%, they blink for a few minutes on the OEM charger, then turn green. I plug them back into the battery grip and they show 100%. WTF.

I'm not sure what to trust. I have had my 5D4 sit in my bag, WiFI and GPS off and the batteries drain at an exorbitant rate. I trust the Wasabi's since I used them a lot in my 5D3. The only batteries that showed me the dreaded "one bar of charge life left" were the OEM Canon LP-E6's. Go figure. Lost here...
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Third Party AF - Which is Best?

axtstern said:
I have the Tamron 15-30mm and the autofocus is great.

Well I have the 15-30 from Tamron as well, the focus is great on the 5D3 but a complete and utter failure on the M3

This is an old post to respond to, but that sounds like a camera problem to me. Mine is used on a 5D Mark III and is great just like yours.
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Canon C300 Mark II 4K 60p firmware update at NAB 2017?

For any of you C300 Mk II users/owners as I am, do you think or hope or want a firmware update near or at NAB 2017 that will include 4k 60p? In DCI or UHD...either would be nice. That is my hope. Got to keep up with the competition at this point. I believe it would helps sales also. If the camera can write 4K footage to a Cfast card, write proxies to an SD card and simutainiously send out SDI signal to an external monitor or recorder, it can do 4K 60p! C'mon Canon!
This is really the only thing I do not like that is absent from the C300 MK II. Ok and maybe autofocus in special recording crop mode, lol.

Attachments

What Will Canon Be Bringing to NAB 2017?

For any of you C300 Mk II users/owners as I am, do you think or hope or want a firmware update near or at NAB 2017 that will include 4k 60p? In DCI or UHD...either would be nice. That is my hope. Got to keep up with the competition at this point. I believe it would helps sales also. If the camera can write 4K footage to a Cfast card, write proxies to an SD card and simutainiously send out SDI signal to an external monitor or recorder, it can do 4K 60p! C'mon Canon!

Attachments

  • IMG_0877 copy.JPG
    IMG_0877 copy.JPG
    1.4 MB · Views: 233
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EOS 1300D

Cameras in the 1x00D line are made from the same parts Canon used in the previous generation DSLRs. Canon does this to squeeze the last dollars out of existing production lines.

This means the cameras are just as good as the cameras made a couple of years ago, just cheaper.

If the specs look good to you, e.g. you don't need dual slots to make sure the photos aren't lost in case one memory card fails, just go ahead - it's a great deal.
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Raw Quality of upcoming Sony A99 II

I have a K5iis and while it has fabulous DR and had it years ago I concur that Pentax rendering of hue is not very accurate and sometimes not even pleasing.
But you should be able to color-checker that into submission since it has such low noise and a very decent metamerism index.
HAHA! The standard program for ooc jpgs is a little acid-trippy! The neutral is good and, of course, you can also quite thoroughly customize the ooc look for color and tone in the basic camera settings for those who play with jpgs.
Biggest problem I have with that camera is color moiré issues and color-fringed specular hilites with the lack of AA-filter and no sensor-jiggle like the newer models use to mimic that function.
Still a damn solid camera body in many respects.

Sporgon said:
The wonders of sensor measurements !

Go onto the DXO Mark site and have look at the measurements for the Pentax K5ii. It uses the Sony sensor, and in the dxomark measurements for SNR, tonal range and colour sensitivity (as well as DR) it absolutely annihilates even the recently introduced Canon crop sensors, and even keeps up with recent FF offerings such as the 5DIV.

So it must be great !

Now have a look at the attached picture, taken on the K5. In reality the blue jersey worn by the woman and the blue anorak tied around the man's waist are completely different shades of blue. The woman's jersey is a much lighter, pastel "power" blue, whereas the man's coat is a darker, more vivid blue. Yet despite the cameras superior tonal range and colour sensitivity it has recored them as the same ! The Canon has them perfectly distinguishes ( but I can't lay my hands on a file to prove it at the moment). It isn't the raw converter in Adobe that is to blame either, I have tried this in the Pentax raw format as well as processing in the "Silkipix" or what ever it's called and it is just the same - the blues are pretty well identical.

This result has further reduced my faith in these "measurements" telling me how good a sensor is, or at least the ability to accurately define the practical improvements in these sensors that are all so close anyway.
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Can someone recommend good, reasonably priced C-Stands and source?

awinphoto said:
Pookie said:
cayenne said:
awinphoto said:
Pookie said:
awinphoto said:
I got mine from adorama... cheaper yet... https://www.adorama.com/fplsc.html. They are solid stands, have the arm in case that's important to you.... and a nice grip so they're easy to grab... and best yet, it's free shipping... For that price get a few, we use them on location and off location for our strobes

C-stands are def cheaper but if you're packing them, the roller stand fold up super small without the casters. Much easier to move and carry around in general, if not a concern the c-stands work just as well. On casters they are hands down better than C-stands in the studio though as you can change positions easily. Especially if you're solo...

I'm not a real big fan of rollers unless i'm in a studio... they CAN make your system a little unstable depending on what and where it is and they are only as good as the locking mechanism that's in it. I prefer my stands for that reason... They are solid and heavier, but that's how a c-stand is supposed to be built. Also, if needed, I can throw on a sand bag or two and know that stand is going no-where. Plus, these stands are taller, have a boom arm, knuckles, and are, to me, more of a complete and solid package, especially for the price... but to each their own.

Interesting.

I wonder, on the Kubo unit, are the casters/wheels easily changeable? How difficult is it to take them off/put them on when moving between studio and outdoors for use?

C

You can take them off and find replacements if you want too. The caster removal/installation is very easy. I use them without casters often and they are every bit as stable as a C-stand. The roller stands foot print is the same as a C-stand. So the stability is equal. Awinphoto's point about stability is nothing I've encountered unless you have a really bad floor. Rollers are just as heavy and gripped as C-stands. The kit Awin mentions is actually lighter than a boomed stand, even flimsier. The boom you were looking at is a much better choice. I have also problems with C-stands in the studio, when an assistant has tried to adjust a c-stands position and the whole package takes a dump because you can't just move the position, the entire unit has to be lifted or dragged into a new position unlike a roller where you unlock and slide it. When fully loaded and you need to move positions it's no small task and can be problematic. Two spills of B1's has made for expensive repairs. Again, with the fold up roller you can use them without casters and then you have options, especially if packing them for location. Options are good, probably why they are also more expensive...

About sandbags... Fill them with sand but put it in double Ziploc bags within the actual canvas bag as it will contain the sand. You can then extract the sand easily load them and dump it if needed, which I do all the time on the beach. On location I use water bottles or extra batteries for my lights as extra weight also. Although water is not as heavy as sand it's nice to be able to offer water to models and VALs onsite.

Also a word of warning... as Awin mentions even sandbagged liberally there is always a chance of wind or other "things" causing a spill, like trying to adjust lights in the studio. When you buy any of these heavier stands, they are HEAVIER. They can cause significant injury if you, an assitant or a client is under them and the fall. Learn how to set you grips correctly (and there is a wrong and right way) and how to sandbag properly.

At the end of the day, I personally would not trust a stand on rollers unless it's in a studio... There is nothing flimsy about my stands but at the end of the day, i suppose this goes down to different strokes for different folks... I've been using C-stands for over 15 years in all different locations and environments and I personally like these stands. But if you want to spend almost 2x on something that rolls, be my guest. But, i will say, there is a right way and a wrong way to have the knuckles, as pookie sugested... Having them on the right will mean that (on a boom) as weight is applied to the boom (lights/modifiers/etc) it will naturally tighten and become more secure... Having the knuckles on the opposite side run the risk of when weight is applied, the knuckles loosening leading to crashes. If using a boom, it is recommended to attach sandbags to the legs, or on the opposite side of the boom counterbalancing them, or both. Anywho, either way you go, good luck and enjoy your new gear.

I think the point you continually seem to miss is this... on location, I use the roller stands WITHOUT casters. It is in every respect the same as this...

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1274797-REG/impact_ls_96habi_9_5_heavy_duty_air.html

but made of steel and capable of pulling double duty... in the studio with casters and on-location without. It holds more weight and has a bigger footprint than the linked stand. I own both C-stands and Rollers, after 25 years and two studios, the rollers are more versatile for me. Cayenne will do fine with both. Your linked C-stand with a grip extension is a flimsier approach and cannot be counter balanced well. Cayenne has already been looking at the more substantial steel boom and that in every respect is much better, stable and can be center of gravity adjusted much easier.

Again, he will be fine with both and the decision, money is his to spend.
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Preorder: Sigma 100-400mm f/5-6.3 DG OS HSM Contemporary

andrei1989 said:
i'm not really sure how the tax system works in the US..on the B&H site it's written that they collect taxes for New York and New Jersey..so that's additional to the 799? or included in it?

anyway...it seems too close to the current price of the 150-600
surely, the price will drop a bit in the future..maybe to ~700€

Depending on the state/city, sales tax can vary from 0% to 10% added to the sale price.
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Announced: Nikon D7500 specs

Unless you count the 1Ds3+1D4 --> 1DX 'merging' as a straight sequel (which many don't), I can't recall another time a sequel/next version/Mk II of an established product line has gone down in MP.

We're in a photography forum so I think we all realize how small a resolution difference 24 vs. 20 MP is, and that the D500 sensor is quite good.

But to consumers -- right or wrong -- other than sensor size this is probably the #1 defining metric of 'better' price point-wise, prestige-wise, etc.

So as a photographer I find 20 MP to be fine, but I really wonder how the market will take it.

- A
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Tamron 10-24mm f/3.5-4.5 VC HLD Review - Dustin

CapturingLight said:
I should mention I have been relatively happy with the 10-22, my biggest complain is I have to be careful shooting groups of people at the extreme wide end as the barrel distortion seems to be too much for lightroom to correct and leaves people looking rather unflattering (especially towards the edges).

I don't think what you're seeing is barrel distortion - it's simply perspective distortion caused by the extreme wide field of view, an inevitable result of rectilinearly projecting a wideangle three-dimensional scene on a flat two-dimensional plane. There's nothing to be done about it except maybe switching to a fisheye lens which obviously has its own drawbacks.
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Patent: Using Aluminum To Reduce Flare in DO Lens Elements

Canon are not alone in the field of metal coatings on glass to improve performance. The F35 lighting visor for pilots uses metal vapour coatings and the number of these layers can be in the hundreds but they are too costly for most applications. The process is a grating mask in their patent and will have very high tolerances which add cost so don't expect cheap lenses.
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Cleaned 5D4 sensor for first time - remarkable finding of no dust

pwp said:
Why clean a clean sensor? In unskilled hands it can deposit as much crud on the sensor as you might remove.

Sensor dust may reveal a lot more often if I tended to shoot at small apertures. Shoot at f/11- 16 and see all sorts of sensor crud. But as I'm mostly shooting in the f/2.8-5.6 range it's been a non-issue.

-pw

I'm hardly what you'd call skilled, but there is vast improvement whenever I clean my sensor. On the other hand, I was getting such dust as to be seen at f/2.8
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