B&W Waterscapes and Nautical Scenes...
- By dpc
- Black & White
- 75 Replies
Wintry Inner Harbour, Victoria, British Columbia, this past February...
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ahsanford said:Curious to see everyone's thoughts. I think it's principally an enthusiast push fueled by 2/3/4 above, but I could be wrong.
Ladislav said:It's 2017. Where there any changes in Paris related to camera gear, photography permits, backpacks, tripods etc?
I will have whole 3 days in Paris at the beginning of April just for photography sightseeing. I plan to visit the main landmarks although I may not necessarily go inside if I will not be able to keep my backpack (I don't like leaving it in coat room) or take pictures. I like architecture and cityscape photography.
This is not my first visit so I've been already to plenty of places but it will be my first visit targeted to photography.
Btw. any recommendation for interesting places, time of the day and good vantage points?
My wish list currently contains:
- Arc de Triomphe
- Eiffel Tower
- Place de la Concorde
- Le Palais Royal
- Louvre
- Notre-Dame - including Tower and Crypt tours
- Le Centre Pompidou
- Montparnasse Tower
- Les Catacombes de Paris
- Sacré-Cœur
- Place de la Bastille
- Panthéon
- Some riverbank walk
I intentionally didn't include Palace of Versailles because I don't think I will have enough time to spend a day there.
Michael Clark said:Keep in mind that if you put a Canon LP-E6 battery or one of its clones into the charger with more than about 90% power remaining it will not charge at all. The chip will be reset to show 100% power and 0 frames shot. But no energy will be added to the battery. So when you start using it the camera will show an initial reduction in power very rapidly. To get a full recharge you should wait until the battery has less than 70% before charging.
In my experience, high quality third party batteries outperform the OEM batteries from Canon over the long haul.
I have four camera bodies that use variants of the LP-E6: A 5D Mark II purchased in 2011, a 7D purchased in 2012, a 5D Mark III purchased in 2014, and a 7D Mark II purchased in 2014. With each camera purchase I also bought at least a couple of extra third party batteries and rotated the OEM and third party batteries equally through the cameras.
Of the OEM LP-E6 batteries supplied with each of them the following is their current condition:
2011 - Recharge performance shows one *red* bar. The battery only lasts 60-80 shots in the 5D II it was supplied with. When it was new I could routinely shoot 600-800 frames and still had 40-50% left at the end of an all day shoot. (I no longer use this battery other than to charge and then test it occasionally.)
2012 - Battery was misplaced circa 2014. It was still performing well in use but the recharge performance had already dropped to two of three green bars.
2014 - Recharge performance currently shows two green bars and lasts about 80% as long as it did when new.
2015 - (LP-E6N) Recharge performance currently shows two green bars and lasts about 85-90% as long as it did when new.
I currently also own 5 MaximalPower (available only from amazon) LP-E6 batteries with white labels purchased in 2011-2012, 2 MaximalPower LP-E6 batteries with dark gray labels purchased in 2014, 2 STK LP-E6 batteries purchased in 2015, and one Watson LP-E6N I got (as a freebie w/camera purchase from B&H) in 2015. All ten of the third party batteries still show three green bars when the recharge performance is displayed. It may be that they won't ever actually change the displayed value. I can't say for sure because every one of them still works somewhere between as well as to much better than the OEM Canon batteries that are the same respective ages.
The 5 older MPs (2011-12 vintage) are showing their age a bit and last about 80-85% as long as they did when new and their performance was about the same as the OEM batteries at the time. They were used heavily until the two newest cameras were purchased in 2014-15.
They communicate perfectly with the 5DII and 7D. They do not communicate percentage, number of frames, or serial number with the 5DIII and 7DII, but they still power them for about 80% as long as my newer batteries do. I no longer regularly shoot with the 7D and I use the 5DII sparingly when in a three body setup, so those 5 batteries rotate through a single 5DII that currently sees only lighter use.
The 2 LP-E6 MPs (2014 vintage) communicate perfectly with the 5DIII and 7DII. They now last longer than the 2 OEM Canon batteries that are the same age or newer. The two I have are labeled 'LP-E6 2,000 mAh' but the same SKU at amazon is now labeled on the battery as 'LP-E6N 2,000 mAh'.
The 2 STK LP-E6 (2015) batteries communicate perfectly with the 5DIII and 7DII. They are marked "2600 mAh" and while they do last longer than the 1865 mAh LP-E6N that came with the 7DII, they don't last 40% longer. The difference is more like 10-15% and has been since all were new.
axtstern said:I have the Tamron 15-30mm and the autofocus is great.
Well I have the 15-30 from Tamron as well, the focus is great on the 5D3 but a complete and utter failure on the M3
KeithBreazeal said:My varmint gun. Living in the mountains can get a bit wild at times.
AR-15, Caldwell Lead-Sled, and Shooting Table © Keith Breazeal by Keith Breazeal, on Flickr
Sporgon said:The wonders of sensor measurements !
Go onto the DXO Mark site and have look at the measurements for the Pentax K5ii. It uses the Sony sensor, and in the dxomark measurements for SNR, tonal range and colour sensitivity (as well as DR) it absolutely annihilates even the recently introduced Canon crop sensors, and even keeps up with recent FF offerings such as the 5DIV.
So it must be great !
Now have a look at the attached picture, taken on the K5. In reality the blue jersey worn by the woman and the blue anorak tied around the man's waist are completely different shades of blue. The woman's jersey is a much lighter, pastel "power" blue, whereas the man's coat is a darker, more vivid blue. Yet despite the cameras superior tonal range and colour sensitivity it has recored them as the same ! The Canon has them perfectly distinguishes ( but I can't lay my hands on a file to prove it at the moment). It isn't the raw converter in Adobe that is to blame either, I have tried this in the Pentax raw format as well as processing in the "Silkipix" or what ever it's called and it is just the same - the blues are pretty well identical.
This result has further reduced my faith in these "measurements" telling me how good a sensor is, or at least the ability to accurately define the practical improvements in these sensors that are all so close anyway.
awinphoto said:Pookie said:cayenne said:awinphoto said:Pookie said:awinphoto said:I got mine from adorama... cheaper yet... https://www.adorama.com/fplsc.html. They are solid stands, have the arm in case that's important to you.... and a nice grip so they're easy to grab... and best yet, it's free shipping... For that price get a few, we use them on location and off location for our strobes
C-stands are def cheaper but if you're packing them, the roller stand fold up super small without the casters. Much easier to move and carry around in general, if not a concern the c-stands work just as well. On casters they are hands down better than C-stands in the studio though as you can change positions easily. Especially if you're solo...
I'm not a real big fan of rollers unless i'm in a studio... they CAN make your system a little unstable depending on what and where it is and they are only as good as the locking mechanism that's in it. I prefer my stands for that reason... They are solid and heavier, but that's how a c-stand is supposed to be built. Also, if needed, I can throw on a sand bag or two and know that stand is going no-where. Plus, these stands are taller, have a boom arm, knuckles, and are, to me, more of a complete and solid package, especially for the price... but to each their own.
Interesting.
I wonder, on the Kubo unit, are the casters/wheels easily changeable? How difficult is it to take them off/put them on when moving between studio and outdoors for use?
C
You can take them off and find replacements if you want too. The caster removal/installation is very easy. I use them without casters often and they are every bit as stable as a C-stand. The roller stands foot print is the same as a C-stand. So the stability is equal. Awinphoto's point about stability is nothing I've encountered unless you have a really bad floor. Rollers are just as heavy and gripped as C-stands. The kit Awin mentions is actually lighter than a boomed stand, even flimsier. The boom you were looking at is a much better choice. I have also problems with C-stands in the studio, when an assistant has tried to adjust a c-stands position and the whole package takes a dump because you can't just move the position, the entire unit has to be lifted or dragged into a new position unlike a roller where you unlock and slide it. When fully loaded and you need to move positions it's no small task and can be problematic. Two spills of B1's has made for expensive repairs. Again, with the fold up roller you can use them without casters and then you have options, especially if packing them for location. Options are good, probably why they are also more expensive...
About sandbags... Fill them with sand but put it in double Ziploc bags within the actual canvas bag as it will contain the sand. You can then extract the sand easily load them and dump it if needed, which I do all the time on the beach. On location I use water bottles or extra batteries for my lights as extra weight also. Although water is not as heavy as sand it's nice to be able to offer water to models and VALs onsite.
Also a word of warning... as Awin mentions even sandbagged liberally there is always a chance of wind or other "things" causing a spill, like trying to adjust lights in the studio. When you buy any of these heavier stands, they are HEAVIER. They can cause significant injury if you, an assitant or a client is under them and the fall. Learn how to set you grips correctly (and there is a wrong and right way) and how to sandbag properly.
At the end of the day, I personally would not trust a stand on rollers unless it's in a studio... There is nothing flimsy about my stands but at the end of the day, i suppose this goes down to different strokes for different folks... I've been using C-stands for over 15 years in all different locations and environments and I personally like these stands. But if you want to spend almost 2x on something that rolls, be my guest. But, i will say, there is a right way and a wrong way to have the knuckles, as pookie sugested... Having them on the right will mean that (on a boom) as weight is applied to the boom (lights/modifiers/etc) it will naturally tighten and become more secure... Having the knuckles on the opposite side run the risk of when weight is applied, the knuckles loosening leading to crashes. If using a boom, it is recommended to attach sandbags to the legs, or on the opposite side of the boom counterbalancing them, or both. Anywho, either way you go, good luck and enjoy your new gear.
andrei1989 said:i'm not really sure how the tax system works in the US..on the B&H site it's written that they collect taxes for New York and New Jersey..so that's additional to the 799? or included in it?
anyway...it seems too close to the current price of the 150-600
surely, the price will drop a bit in the future..maybe to ~700€
CapturingLight said:I should mention I have been relatively happy with the 10-22, my biggest complain is I have to be careful shooting groups of people at the extreme wide end as the barrel distortion seems to be too much for lightroom to correct and leaves people looking rather unflattering (especially towards the edges).
pwp said:Why clean a clean sensor? In unskilled hands it can deposit as much crud on the sensor as you might remove.
Sensor dust may reveal a lot more often if I tended to shoot at small apertures. Shoot at f/11- 16 and see all sorts of sensor crud. But as I'm mostly shooting in the f/2.8-5.6 range it's been a non-issue.
-pw